PC Engine Homebrew News: The duo that brought you FX-Unit Yuki returns! A demo for "Nyanja!" is available, an action platformer akin to games like Bubble Bobble & Snow Bros in gameplay style.
Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Ravij

#1
I have a cheap Scart to HDMI converter which works fine. There is some slight motion blur on 240p images, but I can live with it. I have a CRT when I want perfection!

IMG
wayback.ebay.co.uk/itm/220976911103
#2
Can't remember what exactly I paid for my Magical Chase (mint & boxed), but it was £40 or £50, which is what I was paying for new PCE games in the early 1990's. Think I only got 2 or 3 games new, Street Fighter was one, which IIRC was £45 new. The vast majority of my PC Engine collection cost a few dollars each, so the odd expensive game is not too bad.

Personally I wouldn't pay stupid bucks for anything.

I just hope they still fetch silly money in 20-25 years time when I come to sell them though!

IMG
Magical Chase - PC Engine
by ravij1, on Flickr
#3
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 06/10/2012, 01:47 PM
Quote from: Ravij on 06/10/2012, 11:38 AMAnother quick question - where is the best place to tap 5 volts to power my NJM based amp? I'm going to stick the amp PCB over the HU card slot, as there is plenty of space there, and no heat sources.
Since you'll be sticking it over the HuCard slot, pin 38 on the slot would be an ideal place to grab 5V.
Thought I'd post a pic of the completed RGB mod:

IMGPC Engine DUO with RGB Mod by ravij1, on Flickr
#4
Quote from: peasoup on 06/07/2012, 10:27 AMI'm trying to replace the din 5 with a din 8 for the rgb mod. Your probably right about using a hotter iron, I've just been reluctant to use one in case I lift a trace or pad.

I was hoping it could be the sucker, a new solder sucker is cheaper than a new iron :)
I did the job with a 25 watt iron - I wouldn't go any more than that, as you risk pulling the tracks off the PCB.

Use solder flux, a good de-solder pump, nice clean iron tip, also I think I used a solder mop:

IMG

Which is similar to the braided wire like you get in the screening of co-axial wires (i.e. audio and video). It just absorbs the excess solder - just like a mop with water I suppose!

Be very patient, and get the bulk of the solder out. Then use a flat head screwdriver or similar tools to move the legs of the DIN clear of the PCB tracks. Working one by one, you should be able to free up the DIN and get it out.

BTW - keep the DIN, you may find that you need to cannibalise a few bits of it, to make a good 8 PIN DIN, since they seem to have slight differences between manufacturers.
#5
One of mine. Canon 400D with 70-200 F4 IS lens

IMG
#6
If you value your sanity - Don't try to solder in surface mount caps as a replacement!  ](*,)

That is all.

P. S. - It worked  :lol:

IMG
#7
I have 2 Tennokoe Banks, which to be honest, haven't been used for at least a year. I just tried them out again today, and both are showing this message:

IMG

Can someone tell me what it says please!  [-o<