10/31/2023: Localization News - Dead of the Brain 1!

No, NOT a trick, a Halloween treat! Presenting the Dead of the Brain 1 English patch by David Shadoff for the DEAD last official PC Engine CD game published by NEC before exiting the console biz in 1999! I helped edit/betatest and it's also a game I actually finished in 2023, yaaay! Shubibiman also did a French localization. github.com/dshadoff/DeadoftheBrain
twitter.com/NightWolve/PCENews
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Messages - PapaBender

#1
Awesomesauce, thank you sir, will get the ball rolling on that asap :)
#2
Thanks - would you have a link handy?

Also did you have to change the tip out? wasn't sure what you had meant.

I'm only running composite out at the moment, but the sega model 2 power seems okay despite being 10V instead of 9V. Not sure what will happen once that Voultar amp goes in though lol.
#3
I've been using a Sega model 2 as a power supply with the Duo R I recently picked up because it didn't come with one.

Sadly I need this for my Sega setup so I will be looking to replace the power adapter.

Any luck with somewhat "cheaper than the originals" in terms of power supplies? They are not *that* pricey, but if I could save a chunk of cash and have something in spec that doesn't cause any video interference it would be great.

I was looking at this one https://en.retrogamesupply.com/collections/pc-engine/products/power-supply-for-nec-pc-engine-duo-r-duo-rx but noticed it was a switching power supply as per this review below of one they did for the supergrapx

https://www.videogameperfection.com/2018/05/10/supply-supergrafx-review/

Could anyone recommend something that wouldn't introduce any interference? Maybe just get another Sega model 2 adapter? (seems to be 1 V higher)

(also I will being doing the voultar RGB amp soon, sounds like that could be a factor too)
#4
Again a big thanks to both of you, this last year or so has been me flying blind in terms of the PC engine world, so not really sure what is the norm.

Everything is working great then - I'll still go ahead with the recap, since I have them and its open - bot not going to fiddle with anything else.

For the soft reset, I barely noticed it but yea it is there. Only reason I was paying such close attention was that I had opened and cleaned the system and was checking to see if I introduced any new problems.

It's a great system, I already played most of the hu card games via everdrive, but the CD library is overwhelming so I am just going through videos of "top 10,20,50" to see what to try next.
#5
Just a follow up on this, it does seem like if you tap the system it skips. Obviously this isn't something I would do on a regular basis lol, but would you know which pot to tackle to make it less sensitive?

I realize there are many pots (and to record any settings before making even the smallest of changes) but is there a specific one to start with or would they all need calibration?

I don't think it would be the laser pot as it's playing real and CDR's so i'd be left with:

VR101 = E/F balance
VR102 = Focus Offset
VR103 = Track Gain
VR105 = VCO

Hopefully it would just be 1 VS having to do them all - if that was the case I would probably just pass until it got worse lol
#6
Thanks so much for the quick reply - stops me from troubleshooting stuff that is somewhat the norm.
#7
Hello,

I've recently picked up a Duo R - in pretty decent shape. The A/V and controller port have been replaced since looking at them the wrong way could cause issues. lol

The caps all seem fine, but I picked up a cap kit from console5 and will probably just change them out while I have it open.

Its very clean inside, almost like no tampering has been done - the laser in it had died, but it still had the original "goop" on the laser pot. I tried adjusting the laser pot, but ended up replacing the laser now it plays original and CD-R's.

Basically it's just down to the x3 issues below (might even be normal, i'm not not that familiar with this system yet and haven't found any info on the below)

- while playing a CD game (Dracula - Rondo of blood omg how good is that game) a friend bumped the console very lightly by accident. The CD music stopped (and i think spinning) but the sound effects and the game kept going. Is this some kind of fail safe? is there a button combo to get the CD to spin back up again or a more serious problem? It just seems like any vibrations will set off the game music and you just need to restart. Maybe the magnet in the lid isn't spinning?

- so the CD rom bios menu (press run screen) has no noise when you are loading a CD. but after playing a game then using Run+Select to return to the main menu. there is a sort of buzzing/humming noise coming out  the speakers. I'm wondering if that is normal because I used the shortcut to return to the main menu or not. Again, noob here not sure if I should be doing that. Resetting the machine will remove the noise.

- there is a BA6296FP chip right under the open button, which seems to get much hotter than the other chips when playing CD games. This is apparently a "BTL Power Driver for CD Player"
again it plays cd's okay but just wanted to reach out and see if this was normal. 2-3 of the pins on this chip look black, almost burned, but they appear to still be soldered to the board without issue.

Thanks in advance, I have some TG-16 experience but still learning about the do's and don'ts of this nice Duo R :)
#8
NEC Console Resource / New user saying hi
08/29/2018, 01:47 PM
Hi there,

I'm from Canada, love retro systems, dabbling with RGB and arcade systems.

I've had a TG -16 now for about a year and finally took the plunge on a Duo-R. I bought it broken off ebay but was able to bring it back from the dead. I've yet to do the RGB mod and some other minor things , but I will post that in a separate thread in a bit.

Anywho thanks for approving me.