2/13/2025: Localization News - Cosmic Fantasy 3-4!Rather earth-shattering news in the PC Engine / TurboGrafx-16 community: Cosmic Fantasy 3 & 4 has been officially localized to English by Edia 30 years later for the Switch! Hard to believe! I know their script quality is poor given the 1&2 port but still good to see. 
Anyone have any info on how these actually work (hardware side)?
 |
|
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Pages1
#2
Console Repair/Mod Center / Pc Engine Solderless (plugable) region mod
12/17/2010, 09:23 PM
UPDATE FOR THE SLOW 12.19.2010 THIS IS A SOLDERLESS /PLUGGABLE VERSION OF THE REGION MOD .IT REQUIRES NO SOLDERING TO INSTALL IT.THINK SOLDERLESS ADAPTER PS2/XBOX MODCHIPS XENIUM SPICE ETC ETC
On gameSx originally
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4320.0
I'll get this bit out of the way first,the inevitable question that pops up from those WHO DON'T FECKIN READ ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE TITLE :
>
WHY DO THIS WHEN YOU CAN JUST MAKE AND SOLDER THE REGION MOD IC ?
We'll you can do that ,but this is aimed at those folk who really don't want to mess about with a soldering iron ,or aren't comfortable/skilled with one and don't want to risk destroying anything with one ! So the implementation is here to show it can be done ,and hopefully it can be improved upon and made available for modders to sell to those type of people (like the solderless ps2/xbox mod chips).And there's not really a use/need for using the crimp terminals over soldering to the IC's matrix board,i used them just for the fun of it and for experimentation .
Details of the wire size ,crimp terminals etc can be found in my other guide ;
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4283.0
I got to the end and then found i had forgotten one MAJOR part to solve.The lifting of pin 29 and how to attach the Vss / ground wire to it without soldering the bugger .But i fixed that flaw,and i hope someone can come up with a better method though.
Also you'll notice some pictures are not in the right order,the wire around the leg/pin 29 changes from copper to silver stranded ;D and also the use of an old dodgy core grafx for showing lifting of leg 29 (which isn't leg 29 :-[
... ................................................................................
I'm not going through the whole thing of showing the fitting of the spdt slide switch ,cutting the matrix board ,soldering it etc etc ,for those parts, follow the links below
http://mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/region.htm
http://playoffline.wordpress.com/mod/pceswitch/
These wire cutters will fit inside the area and between the pins that have to bee snipped ,on the back of the HU card connector.
Turned Pin SIL PCB Socket 18 way
This socket has a pitch of 2.54mm
http://www.technobotsonline.com/turned-pin-sil-pcb-socket-20-way.html
more
Cut the plastic of of each and all of the sockets,so you're left with bare metal.Tin the pin end!
I cut my 8 core wire to this length.
16 bits for the back of the HU card connector legs/pins ,extra bits were cut for my Vcc and Vss connections on the IC and the spdt switch and the control wire going to the IC and also for leg 29 on the console's pcb IC.
I Stripped both ends ,about 3 mm ,then tinned only one end ,the end which is to be soldered to the pin end of the SIL socket.
more
more
These were for my Vcc connections.
Finished Vcc and Vss connections.
more
Different mock up showing basically how my crimp terminals (minus heat shrink )would connect to the IC matrix board (2.54 mm pitch pcb headers ,ic plugged into a dil ? socket (which is useless as it would create a board that is too high to fit in the console).
DO NOT TAKE THE POSITION OF THESE CUT LEGS AS THE REAL POSITION ON THE BACK OF THE HU CARD CONNECTOR,THEY ARE JUST USED AS AN AN EXAMPLE .
Example cuts
SIL socket attached minus any heat shrink
The heat shrink must just cover the end of each SIL socket ,as they have a little protruding outer lip/ring which will touch the others,as long as it's insulated (which i ran out of shrink ,so used electrician tape instead on the finished 1st picture above)
Scalpel ,used for lifting leg 29 .Number 3 handle ,with a number 10a blade.
As leg 29 on the IC has no trace attached to it,making it next to no risk when you gently pry the leg up off the pcb.
Example ,used on dodgy core grafx and not the correct leg/IC .
Follow links in the first post .
Stripped and nearly ready for attaching to leg 29
One small needle,about 1mm or 0.5 mm thick.
Around and around we go
Once this is tightly wrapped enough,it will then fit over leg 29 and taped down to give a more secure fitting .
Where the needle point is is the thinnest ,so the bare wire is more tightly wrapped and a better, tighter fit around the base of the leg,the wider part of the needle wrap wire you can see showing ,doesn't pose a problem ,as it's is much tighter at the base.
Checking with a multi meter will show no faults with it.
more
Different way to ground leg 29,using a SIL socket which is a perfect fit.Checking with your multi meter will show no problems with the connection (maybe some hot glue would add some further securing of the connection )
more
Connecting up to show that leg 29 is connected fine
As above
As above
Vss /ground and leg 29 now connected to a Vss /ground point
Picture in wrong order,showing insulated tape under lifted leg
Vcc/ + 5 volt supply.Minus tape to secure it down to the pcb.
I looped the wire under and around the + 5 volt cap's Vcc / leg ,wrapped it around the wires insulation,then popped it between my thumb and forefinger and rolled it so it twisted very tightly around the cap's Vcc leg .
Remember,there's no point in using crimp terminals,stick to soldering .
Old board,showing another point to get your Vcc/ + 5 volt connection from
Vcc / + 5 volt can also be got from the LEFT THROUGH HOLE.
Pogo pins/test pins ? could be of use there or you can use the same size wire i used here as it fits through.
As above
Vcc/ + 5 volt connection taped down and secure
I think that's it. Get it improved and get them available.
On gameSx originally
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4320.0
I'll get this bit out of the way first,the inevitable question that pops up from those WHO DON'T FECKIN READ ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE TITLE :
>WHY DO THIS WHEN YOU CAN JUST MAKE AND SOLDER THE REGION MOD IC ?
We'll you can do that ,but this is aimed at those folk who really don't want to mess about with a soldering iron ,or aren't comfortable/skilled with one and don't want to risk destroying anything with one ! So the implementation is here to show it can be done ,and hopefully it can be improved upon and made available for modders to sell to those type of people (like the solderless ps2/xbox mod chips).And there's not really a use/need for using the crimp terminals over soldering to the IC's matrix board,i used them just for the fun of it and for experimentation .
Details of the wire size ,crimp terminals etc can be found in my other guide ;
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4283.0
I got to the end and then found i had forgotten one MAJOR part to solve.The lifting of pin 29 and how to attach the Vss / ground wire to it without soldering the bugger .But i fixed that flaw,and i hope someone can come up with a better method though.
Also you'll notice some pictures are not in the right order,the wire around the leg/pin 29 changes from copper to silver stranded ;D and also the use of an old dodgy core grafx for showing lifting of leg 29 (which isn't leg 29 :-[
... ................................................................................
I'm not going through the whole thing of showing the fitting of the spdt slide switch ,cutting the matrix board ,soldering it etc etc ,for those parts, follow the links below
http://mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/region.htm
http://playoffline.wordpress.com/mod/pceswitch/
These wire cutters will fit inside the area and between the pins that have to bee snipped ,on the back of the HU card connector.
Turned Pin SIL PCB Socket 18 way
This socket has a pitch of 2.54mm
http://www.technobotsonline.com/turned-pin-sil-pcb-socket-20-way.html
more
Cut the plastic of of each and all of the sockets,so you're left with bare metal.Tin the pin end!
I cut my 8 core wire to this length.
16 bits for the back of the HU card connector legs/pins ,extra bits were cut for my Vcc and Vss connections on the IC and the spdt switch and the control wire going to the IC and also for leg 29 on the console's pcb IC.
I Stripped both ends ,about 3 mm ,then tinned only one end ,the end which is to be soldered to the pin end of the SIL socket.
more
more
These were for my Vcc connections.
Finished Vcc and Vss connections.
more
Different mock up showing basically how my crimp terminals (minus heat shrink )would connect to the IC matrix board (2.54 mm pitch pcb headers ,ic plugged into a dil ? socket (which is useless as it would create a board that is too high to fit in the console).
DO NOT TAKE THE POSITION OF THESE CUT LEGS AS THE REAL POSITION ON THE BACK OF THE HU CARD CONNECTOR,THEY ARE JUST USED AS AN AN EXAMPLE .
Example cuts
SIL socket attached minus any heat shrink
The heat shrink must just cover the end of each SIL socket ,as they have a little protruding outer lip/ring which will touch the others,as long as it's insulated (which i ran out of shrink ,so used electrician tape instead on the finished 1st picture above)
Scalpel ,used for lifting leg 29 .Number 3 handle ,with a number 10a blade.
As leg 29 on the IC has no trace attached to it,making it next to no risk when you gently pry the leg up off the pcb.
Example ,used on dodgy core grafx and not the correct leg/IC .
Follow links in the first post .
Stripped and nearly ready for attaching to leg 29
One small needle,about 1mm or 0.5 mm thick.
Around and around we go
Once this is tightly wrapped enough,it will then fit over leg 29 and taped down to give a more secure fitting .
Where the needle point is is the thinnest ,so the bare wire is more tightly wrapped and a better, tighter fit around the base of the leg,the wider part of the needle wrap wire you can see showing ,doesn't pose a problem ,as it's is much tighter at the base.
Checking with a multi meter will show no faults with it.
more
Different way to ground leg 29,using a SIL socket which is a perfect fit.Checking with your multi meter will show no problems with the connection (maybe some hot glue would add some further securing of the connection )
more
Connecting up to show that leg 29 is connected fine
As above
As above
Vss /ground and leg 29 now connected to a Vss /ground point
Picture in wrong order,showing insulated tape under lifted leg
Vcc/ + 5 volt supply.Minus tape to secure it down to the pcb.
I looped the wire under and around the + 5 volt cap's Vcc / leg ,wrapped it around the wires insulation,then popped it between my thumb and forefinger and rolled it so it twisted very tightly around the cap's Vcc leg .
Remember,there's no point in using crimp terminals,stick to soldering .
Old board,showing another point to get your Vcc/ + 5 volt connection from
Vcc / + 5 volt can also be got from the LEFT THROUGH HOLE.
Pogo pins/test pins ? could be of use there or you can use the same size wire i used here as it fits through.
As above
Vcc/ + 5 volt connection taped down and secure
I think that's it. Get it improved and get them available.
#3
Console Repair/Mod Center / Any interest if i build to order the PCE pluggable RGB modbox ?
12/03/2010, 03:04 PM
i've been having a think about building more pc engine RGB modbox'stm and selling them,that's if there's any interest from anyone wanting one ,as i have enough kit left for making about four more modbox's tm
At the minute, i'd prefer UK customers if there's any demand for it .
At the minute, i'd prefer UK customers if there's any demand for it .
#4
Console Repair/Mod Center / core grafx fuse value/type ?
11/24/2010, 07:16 PM
I need to know what value fuse are used in the core grafx and are they slow or fast blow ?
#5
Console Repair/Mod Center / PC ENGINE Plugable rgb mod via exp port- complete and easy
11/20/2010, 04:06 AM
Hello people ,a little mod that i've been working on is finally finished, so i posted the mod on GamesX and now i'm sharing it here.
https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4283.0
Finally finished my external rgb mod for the PC engine which plugs into the expansion port ,and is really simple to do with those connectors which are just different versions of the ones you find plugged into your pc's reset/power/hdd led headers.They're nice and thin ,so fit perfectly into the pc engine's expansion port and the holes for the PC engine's exp port pins to fit into are also the exact width apart (2.54mm or.1 inch) and thickness.Obviously ,this won't work with a cd rom rom set up
There is a few ways of doing this ,like having the connectors come from the exp port and going to a small pcb with the amp and a female scart plug on that ,then the user can just buy a scart lead and plug straight in ,but for simplicity sake i opted to just crimp the terminals to the scart lead ,then those plug into the header sockets and into the exp port and the RGB amp is inside the scart plug .
RGB beauty for us englanders :-
Connections used in my pictures
comp sync =yellow
R=red wire
G=green wire
B=blue wire
5Vcc=orange wire
0Vss(ground)=black wire
Right audio =purple wire
Left audio = white wire
RGB amp inside the scart plug ,can use the 3 Q's (transistor) method for simplicity ,found on http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/amp.htm
There's also a 95% finished version of the plugable RGB mod which works with the cd rom rom connected in the briefcace .
These mods are mainly for people who don't want to open up their consoles and poke around with a soldering iron when they're not competent using one or don't want to send their console to someone to internally rgb mod it for them.I'll just stick to the internal mod and amp (are there any games that would benefit from each person having a seperate tv screen ,as you can use both mods ,one showing on each tv screen at the same time).
Once i'm done i'm just going to give these finished cables away .
Here we go then
Items needed
HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimp Tool
Ebay Item number: 120639847251
http://www.tmbelectronics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=481&zenid=6bc4498d20ee14cbb63adfa0d0eaea28
1 x small needle about 0.5mm 1/2mm (half) thick .
This is to help you remove the crimp terminals if you make a mistake and insert one into the wrong slot of the plastic housing.
20 x 2226TG crimp terminals 24-28 AWG Ebay Item number: 320607064077
Only 8 are needed ,but if you need to practice the method of crimping with the crimp tool,more helps .
3 x crimp housing
Available from http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/2226a-02/crimp-housing-1-row-2-way/dp/1593506?crosssellid=1593506&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&;
http://www.technobotsonline.com/connectors-and-headers/cable-assembly-housings.html
1 x 2226A crimp housing 1 row 6 way (2.54mm /0.1inch wire to board housings)
1 x 2226B crimp housing 2 row 8 way
1 x 2226b crimp housing 2 row 3 way
Heat shrink http://www.technobotsonline.com/cable-and-accessories/cable-accessories/heatshrink.html
1 x 9.5cm long and 9.5mm wide
1 x 2cm long and 9.5mm wide
3 x 5.5cm long and 3.2mm wide
1 x 2 metre length of 8 core cable 7/0.2mm
Ebay Item number: 150509337912
Strip back the black plastic outer insulation, so each coloured cable is this length(with a pair of wire strippers that i forgot to add at the beginning) Roll Eyes
Now strip each coloured cable so this amount of silver wire is exposed (in mm )
slide your pieces of heatshrink over your cables,
before crimping the terminals on,as you'll find it less hassle to slide the stuff over ,unlike what i did
Wires red green and black (going to Red Green and 0Vss /ground signals on pc engine /core grafx's expansion connector)
Wires yellow blue orange (Yellow going to composite sync , Blue going to blue and orange going to 5Vcc /+ 5 Volts on pc engine /core grafx's expansion connector)
You will be left with two wire ,so slide your final piece of 1 x 2cm long and 9.5mm wide over
Push the crimp terminal in this way,so the side where the wire that gets pushed into the barrel is on the side of the AWG markings and push the terminal in so it is flush with the side and doesn't stick out at all.Then just close the ratchet crimp tool enough,so as to just hold the terminal when you let go of the handles.
Then just look at the pictures above which show you exactly how far to insert the stripped wire.Practice with the extra spare crimp terminals you have until it's correct.
Here's how the finished one should look.Almost perfect ,there should not be any plastic insulation in the second closed area.As you can see ,a tiny bit of red insulation has gotten squished inside the area where only the bare silver wire should go
After shrinking the heat shrink with a hair dryer and the terminals are now inserted into the 6 way housing.The unused terminal on the right is just there to see if it gives a more secure fit when pushed into the connector on the back of the pc engine/core grafx.It doesn't really need it,because of the extra unused slots in the housing(hence the reason for the longer than needed housings)
Orange (not red) yellow and blue .+ 5 Volts Vcc, Composite sync and the colour blue from the console's RGB mode
Black Red Green inserted into the 8 way 2 row housing .Note the small arrowhead on the housing ,red wire goes in here
Black is for ground ,red and green are for those colours that the console outputs in RGB mode
3 way 2 row housing (this final housing is for the left and right audio channels)
2 cm long 9.5mm wide heat shrink applied and shrunk around housing
Finished cable and don't forget to shrink that final piece where the coloured cable comes out,on the right of the picture.
I'm not going to show how to wire up and attach the scart plug or build the simple 3 transistor RGB amplifier ,for that,just follow the simple guides at
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/amp.htm
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/rgb.htm
The insertion point
Cover off for a better view of the 3 rows of pins
Follow The PC Engine Exp Connector pin out below and plug in the housing as follows;
https://www.gamesx.com/misctech/pcebp.php
Blue wire (blue colour signal) TO C 23
Yellow wire (composite sync signal) TO C 22
Orange wire (+5 Volt Vcc (looks red but it's not)) TO C 21
Black wire ( ground (Vss) TO A 21
Red wire ( red colour signal) TO A 23
Green wire (green colour signal)TO B 23
Purple wire ( right audio signal) TO C1
Grey wire ( left audio signal)TO A1
/dscf5281.jpg
https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4283.0
Finally finished my external rgb mod for the PC engine which plugs into the expansion port ,and is really simple to do with those connectors which are just different versions of the ones you find plugged into your pc's reset/power/hdd led headers.They're nice and thin ,so fit perfectly into the pc engine's expansion port and the holes for the PC engine's exp port pins to fit into are also the exact width apart (2.54mm or.1 inch) and thickness.Obviously ,this won't work with a cd rom rom set up
There is a few ways of doing this ,like having the connectors come from the exp port and going to a small pcb with the amp and a female scart plug on that ,then the user can just buy a scart lead and plug straight in ,but for simplicity sake i opted to just crimp the terminals to the scart lead ,then those plug into the header sockets and into the exp port and the RGB amp is inside the scart plug .
RGB beauty for us englanders :-
Connections used in my pictures
comp sync =yellow
R=red wire
G=green wire
B=blue wire
5Vcc=orange wire
0Vss(ground)=black wire
Right audio =purple wire
Left audio = white wire
RGB amp inside the scart plug ,can use the 3 Q's (transistor) method for simplicity ,found on http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/amp.htm
There's also a 95% finished version of the plugable RGB mod which works with the cd rom rom connected in the briefcace .
These mods are mainly for people who don't want to open up their consoles and poke around with a soldering iron when they're not competent using one or don't want to send their console to someone to internally rgb mod it for them.I'll just stick to the internal mod and amp (are there any games that would benefit from each person having a seperate tv screen ,as you can use both mods ,one showing on each tv screen at the same time).
Once i'm done i'm just going to give these finished cables away .
Here we go then
Items needed
HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimp Tool
Ebay Item number: 120639847251
http://www.tmbelectronics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=481&zenid=6bc4498d20ee14cbb63adfa0d0eaea28
1 x small needle about 0.5mm 1/2mm (half) thick .
This is to help you remove the crimp terminals if you make a mistake and insert one into the wrong slot of the plastic housing.
20 x 2226TG crimp terminals 24-28 AWG Ebay Item number: 320607064077
Only 8 are needed ,but if you need to practice the method of crimping with the crimp tool,more helps .
3 x crimp housing
Available from http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/2226a-02/crimp-housing-1-row-2-way/dp/1593506?crosssellid=1593506&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&;
http://www.technobotsonline.com/connectors-and-headers/cable-assembly-housings.html
1 x 2226A crimp housing 1 row 6 way (2.54mm /0.1inch wire to board housings)
1 x 2226B crimp housing 2 row 8 way
1 x 2226b crimp housing 2 row 3 way
Heat shrink http://www.technobotsonline.com/cable-and-accessories/cable-accessories/heatshrink.html
1 x 9.5cm long and 9.5mm wide
1 x 2cm long and 9.5mm wide
3 x 5.5cm long and 3.2mm wide
1 x 2 metre length of 8 core cable 7/0.2mm
Ebay Item number: 150509337912
Strip back the black plastic outer insulation, so each coloured cable is this length(with a pair of wire strippers that i forgot to add at the beginning) Roll Eyes
Now strip each coloured cable so this amount of silver wire is exposed (in mm )
slide your pieces of heatshrink over your cables,
before crimping the terminals on,as you'll find it less hassle to slide the stuff over ,unlike what i did
Wires red green and black (going to Red Green and 0Vss /ground signals on pc engine /core grafx's expansion connector)
Wires yellow blue orange (Yellow going to composite sync , Blue going to blue and orange going to 5Vcc /+ 5 Volts on pc engine /core grafx's expansion connector)
You will be left with two wire ,so slide your final piece of 1 x 2cm long and 9.5mm wide over
Push the crimp terminal in this way,so the side where the wire that gets pushed into the barrel is on the side of the AWG markings and push the terminal in so it is flush with the side and doesn't stick out at all.Then just close the ratchet crimp tool enough,so as to just hold the terminal when you let go of the handles.
Then just look at the pictures above which show you exactly how far to insert the stripped wire.Practice with the extra spare crimp terminals you have until it's correct.
Here's how the finished one should look.Almost perfect ,there should not be any plastic insulation in the second closed area.As you can see ,a tiny bit of red insulation has gotten squished inside the area where only the bare silver wire should go
After shrinking the heat shrink with a hair dryer and the terminals are now inserted into the 6 way housing.The unused terminal on the right is just there to see if it gives a more secure fit when pushed into the connector on the back of the pc engine/core grafx.It doesn't really need it,because of the extra unused slots in the housing(hence the reason for the longer than needed housings)
Orange (not red) yellow and blue .+ 5 Volts Vcc, Composite sync and the colour blue from the console's RGB mode
Black Red Green inserted into the 8 way 2 row housing .Note the small arrowhead on the housing ,red wire goes in here
Black is for ground ,red and green are for those colours that the console outputs in RGB mode
3 way 2 row housing (this final housing is for the left and right audio channels)
2 cm long 9.5mm wide heat shrink applied and shrunk around housing
Finished cable and don't forget to shrink that final piece where the coloured cable comes out,on the right of the picture.
I'm not going to show how to wire up and attach the scart plug or build the simple 3 transistor RGB amplifier ,for that,just follow the simple guides at
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/amp.htm
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/rgb.htm
The insertion point
Cover off for a better view of the 3 rows of pins
Follow The PC Engine Exp Connector pin out below and plug in the housing as follows;
https://www.gamesx.com/misctech/pcebp.php
Blue wire (blue colour signal) TO C 23
Yellow wire (composite sync signal) TO C 22
Orange wire (+5 Volt Vcc (looks red but it's not)) TO C 21
Black wire ( ground (Vss) TO A 21
Red wire ( red colour signal) TO A 23
Green wire (green colour signal)TO B 23
Purple wire ( right audio signal) TO C1
Grey wire ( left audio signal)TO A1
/dscf5281.jpg
#6
Console Repair/Mod Center / Commodore1084s-d1 monitor sync problems with pce
12/28/2008, 08:50 PM
Hello there people,seeing as this is thee place for all things engine related,i'm sure you'll have come across my problem before and can help me out.
I have myself a briefcase setup,and i've recently installed the RGB mod and amp based off of the mmmonkey guide @mmmonkey.co.uk(new 8 pin mini din,removal of the rf modulator)inside of my pc engine,and yesterday i managed to get myself an commodore amiga 1084s-D1 monitor PAL version,the one with the 9pin d-sub socket,and i have wired up a d-sub plug following this pinout http://www.zimmers.net/cbmpics/cbm/monitors/1084s/pinout.html ,with the R-G-B ,composite video to the composite sync pin and ground to the d-subs 2 grounds and all i've got is a picture that can't sync.
So i tried the resistor fix on the sync/composite video line,and the closest to a stable picture i get ,is with 400ohms in series,and this is with dynastic hero on the title screen(but the colours are not correct somehow ),stick in shinobi with it's moving title screen and the sync problems come back,any moving on screen action and the monitors goes haywire again,sometimes all the colours except red will go,then everything but green will go,i've also tried with a pot,but this was 50k and trying to fine tune this was a right bugger,and when i did get a stable picture again with dynastic hero ,this just went off sync again when i used anything else with movement.
After 5 hours ,this is what i've tried and failed with,combinations of all;
Put an amp on the consoles composite video line
Put an amp on the consoles comp sync line
Added 75 ohm resistors on the R-G-B lines
Various resistors on the comp sync/video line with and without an amp.
It seems a lot of people have had problems with these monitors,so i'm just wondering if i should just get rid of this model ,along with the head aches and get the normal 1084/s.
fraser
I have myself a briefcase setup,and i've recently installed the RGB mod and amp based off of the mmmonkey guide @mmmonkey.co.uk(new 8 pin mini din,removal of the rf modulator)inside of my pc engine,and yesterday i managed to get myself an commodore amiga 1084s-D1 monitor PAL version,the one with the 9pin d-sub socket,and i have wired up a d-sub plug following this pinout http://www.zimmers.net/cbmpics/cbm/monitors/1084s/pinout.html ,with the R-G-B ,composite video to the composite sync pin and ground to the d-subs 2 grounds and all i've got is a picture that can't sync.
So i tried the resistor fix on the sync/composite video line,and the closest to a stable picture i get ,is with 400ohms in series,and this is with dynastic hero on the title screen(but the colours are not correct somehow ),stick in shinobi with it's moving title screen and the sync problems come back,any moving on screen action and the monitors goes haywire again,sometimes all the colours except red will go,then everything but green will go,i've also tried with a pot,but this was 50k and trying to fine tune this was a right bugger,and when i did get a stable picture again with dynastic hero ,this just went off sync again when i used anything else with movement.
After 5 hours ,this is what i've tried and failed with,combinations of all;
Put an amp on the consoles composite video line
Put an amp on the consoles comp sync line
Added 75 ohm resistors on the R-G-B lines
Various resistors on the comp sync/video line with and without an amp.
It seems a lot of people have had problems with these monitors,so i'm just wondering if i should just get rid of this model ,along with the head aches and get the normal 1084/s.
fraser
Pages1