The Analogue Turbo Duo clone shipped in time for Christmas 2023. Are you happy with yours ?? Find firmware updates here.
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Messages - Ravij

#1
I have a cheap Scart to HDMI converter which works fine. There is some slight motion blur on 240p images, but I can live with it. I have a CRT when I want perfection!

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wayback.ebay.co.uk/itm/220976911103
#2
R-Type is the most well known IREM game, and the game that made people buy the PCE, but I'm voting Mr Heli. Just a cute and playable game, and well executed on the PCE hardware.
#3
Only problem I get with HuCards is some are badly made, and the 2 plastic layers are not perfectly aligned. This then causes the HuCard to not sit it the correct position and usually causes white screen on power up.

A sharp scalpel knife or some fine sandpaper on the sides of the HuCard will fix.

It's quite rare though - may be 2 or 3 cards out of 150 had this problem.
#4
Can't remember what exactly I paid for my Magical Chase (mint & boxed), but it was £40 or £50, which is what I was paying for new PCE games in the early 1990's. Think I only got 2 or 3 games new, Street Fighter was one, which IIRC was £45 new. The vast majority of my PC Engine collection cost a few dollars each, so the odd expensive game is not too bad.

Personally I wouldn't pay stupid bucks for anything.

I just hope they still fetch silly money in 20-25 years time when I come to sell them though!

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Magical Chase - PC Engine
by ravij1, on Flickr
#5
Quote from: Thorax on 08/20/2014, 09:10 AMPlease ignore my selfmade prototype RGB-Amps... I'll order some nice PCBs soon...
Your amps look great - what IC have you used?

You should have wire the Red and Blue to the 8 Pin DIN the other way round. Just kidding - makes no difference :lol:
#6
I can vouch for the NJM2267 based amps giving good results.

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=10801.msg358650#msg358650

The IC are available in DIP or surface mount packages, and can be easily got on EBay for a few dollars.

I will hopefully be getting another RGB amp next month based on a different IC (4 channel LT6551) so I will probably try that out and see how it compares.
#7
This is where I got my 8 pin DIN from (a couple of years ago)

http://www.cliffuk.co.uk/

They are the manufacturer, so you have to ask them nicely as I don't think they normally sell direct to the public.

It was a drop in replacement, but you need to take the ground shield off the old 5 pin DIN as it was slightly different. Easy to swap though.
#8
Put an audio CD in and test that with the built in CD player.

Do this after the machine has been off for a while and the caps are drained. (Or unplug the PSU and flick the Green switch to drain any remaining charge - EDIT I just tested, this still doesn't fully drain them, so try the test from cold)

The issue I have on mine is the caps take 5+ mins to charge up, and until then no Red Book (CD-Audio). After 5 mins it all seems fine. Depending on how bad the caps are it may take longer to get audio or you never do or it's too quiet.

Some people report the opposite - audio works for a while, then fades.

I'm still trying to sort the issue out on mine. I have do a partial cap change, but obviously it is another cap(s)
#9
Going off topic - is there an easy way to take 5 volts and bump it up to say 9-12 volts?

The reason I'm asking is that Euro SCART TV's have an automatic switching mode in the Scart socket that changes the aspect ratio between 16:9 and 4:3 depending on the voltage presented to pin 8.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCART#Blanking_and_switching

Currently I have the 5 volt line from the DIN going here, so it's switching to 16:9 everytime I power on. Could a simple transistor circuit do this?
#10
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 07/18/2014, 01:05 AMHoly shit those are some thick wires.
Used an old VGA monitor lead, the RGB leads are individually shielded. Overkill I'm sure  :lol:
#11
turbokon - can I ask how much it cost to get that PCB made?

I did a RGB conversion using the NJM2267 amps, but I actually have a pair of the surface mount versions of them too. An SMD version of that circuit would be pretty awesome!

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=10801.120
#12
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 06/10/2012, 01:47 PM
Quote from: Ravij on 06/10/2012, 11:38 AMAnother quick question - where is the best place to tap 5 volts to power my NJM based amp? I'm going to stick the amp PCB over the HU card slot, as there is plenty of space there, and no heat sources.
Since you'll be sticking it over the HuCard slot, pin 38 on the slot would be an ideal place to grab 5V.
Thought I'd post a pic of the completed RGB mod:

IMGPC Engine DUO with RGB Mod by ravij1, on Flickr
#13
Quote from: guest on 07/14/2014, 06:11 PM"Classic Style" http://shpws.me/q6MW
"Super Low Profile Style" http://shpws.me/q6MX

(taken from the maker here)
Is anyone in the UK interested in these? They want nearly 9 Euros for postage. I was thinking I could order a few, and re-send them in the UK for about £1 each.

€9 for postage is ridiculous, for something that weights sweet FA. :x
#14
Hi all - I've not posted on here for 2 years (sad to say I haven't been doing much in PC Engine land  [-X  [-o< )

Anyway I've been thinking about getting a Turbo Everdrive, so when they finally came back in stock last week I ordered one.

I was a bit worried whether it would work ok on my PCE Duo as I had done an RGB mod powered off the 5 volt on the HuCard slot, and I'd heard people were having issues with regions mods....

No worries though, I seems to be working great. I even dug out my old CRT for the complete experience. I've not had some much gaming fun in ages!

I think I'll try and pick up that 3D printed PCB cover soon.

Cheers,

Ravi
#15
Another quick question - where is the best place to tap 5 volts to power my NJM based amp? I'm going to stick the amp PCB over the HU card slot, as there is plenty of space there, and no heat sources.
#16
Quote from: thesteve on 01/28/2012, 02:48 AMsolved


to solve jail-bar issue on rgb modded system replace capacitor C961 10uf with 100uf tant or 220uf aluminum.
the cap is from hu6260 pin43 to ground.
C142 on the TG16
Just swapped the C961 10uf SMD cap for a 100 uf SMD cap. Jailbars I was seeing on PC Genjin 2 in the  blue areas of the sky have gone.

Thanks Steve!

I would recommend  everyone to try this first, as it's so easy to swap.
#17
Quote from: thesteve on 06/09/2012, 01:25 AMi have some 22uf size 1206 SMD ceramic caps that work great.
you could get away with about anything (preferably ceramic or tantalum)
Sorry if I'm being dumb - but across what should the CAPs be placed?

This thread mentions HU6260 PINs 41 and 42 as ground, but here it says they are +5Volts:

http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=schematics:hu6260_netlist
#18
Quote from: thesteve on 06/08/2012, 10:06 PMjust from the pic's in the jap thread, i can tell you this thread is the english equiv.
the pins are the same.
the shorter the leads the better. (ceramic chip across the pins of the chip is ideal)
OK - so what CAP across what Pins?
#19
Quote from: peasoup on 06/07/2012, 10:27 AMI'm trying to replace the din 5 with a din 8 for the rgb mod. Your probably right about using a hotter iron, I've just been reluctant to use one in case I lift a trace or pad.

I was hoping it could be the sucker, a new solder sucker is cheaper than a new iron :)
I did the job with a 25 watt iron - I wouldn't go any more than that, as you risk pulling the tracks off the PCB.

Use solder flux, a good de-solder pump, nice clean iron tip, also I think I used a solder mop:

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Which is similar to the braided wire like you get in the screening of co-axial wires (i.e. audio and video). It just absorbs the excess solder - just like a mop with water I suppose!

Be very patient, and get the bulk of the solder out. Then use a flat head screwdriver or similar tools to move the legs of the DIN clear of the PCB tracks. Working one by one, you should be able to free up the DIN and get it out.

BTW - keep the DIN, you may find that you need to cannibalise a few bits of it, to make a good 8 PIN DIN, since they seem to have slight differences between manufacturers.
#20
Hi everyone.

I finally got round to starting an RGB mod on my PC Engine DUO, well actually I did a 5 Pin DIN to 8 Pin DIN swap a year or 2 ago - may be more (this mod has been in the works for 10 years I'm sure  :oops:)

I made the RGB 8 Pin to Euro SCART yesterday,

And today wired the HU6260 to 3 RGB wires, and then wired the backside of the 8 Pin DIN Socket to 3 more RGB wires, the idea being the RGB amp goes in the middle of the 2 lots of wires.

Shielded cables used all the way - I only want to do this once, and do it right!

As soldering onto the HU chip took a while (i.e. bl***y difficult) - I left things at that.

Except I couldn't resist joining up the 2 internal sets of RGB wires that were meant to be the in / out from the yet to be made RGB amp (which will be NJM2267 based) :lol:

The picture was actually pretty good, not dark in any way, but I did notice jailbars on large areas of solid colour. I need to put a switch in my SCART so I can flip quickly from C-VIDEO and RGB to do a really good back to back comparison of colours, so I'll pass on that for now.

Now the NJM2267 RGB amp may well reduce the jailbar effect, but if there is anything else worth doing now, I'll give it a go. Like I said, I want to do this to the absolute best quality I can, even if the improvements are minimal.

From what I understand, its possible to stick a Capacitor across the power input of the HU chip, to smooth out its power feed?

I think this is what is being suggested here http://baku.homeunix.net/RGB/PCE_DuoRX/PCE_DuoRX.html#add-passcon - any Japanese speakers please translate!

Also - someone suggested a CAP mod in this thread too.

Could anyone (preferably someone who has actually done it) let me know what CAPs I need, and between where?

Any other worthwhile tweeks, please let me know.

thanks!
#21
Get a switch mode power supply, with the right voltage and at least 1000mA (1 A)

These guys have a huge selection, and are wholesale prices.

http://cpc.farnell.com/stontronics/3a-161da09/psu-s-mode-ac-dc-15w-9v/dp/PW01542

I've got something pretty similar on my DUO. The DUO actually runs cooler than any other PSU I've used - I guess the DUOs power regulators are not turning excess voltage into heat - that's got to be good for reliability.

Only issue you might have is finding the right DC connector - I know the one on the DUO is impossible to find anywhere in the UK, so I ended up splicing the original cable off my original 110V adapter on to my new PSU.
#22
One of mine. Canon 400D with 70-200 F4 IS lens

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#23
Thanks for the link.

My next PC Engine mission is to finally build an RGB mod for my Duo, now that I managed to locate an 8 Pin DIN.
#24
Always liked your site Paul. :D

I would like to see more game cheats added, I did have a text file with a load of them once, but can't find it now :(
#25
I've not built either, but IMO the GamesSX one looks like a proper amp circuit. I like the MMMonkey site,  but that amp looks too crude, having no voltage clamping.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clamp_%28circuit%29#Clamping_for_input_protection

It may well work fine, but I wouldn't want to blow my PC Engine Graphics chip just to save a few cents!
#26
This was on in the UK about a month ago, so it's probable not on iPlayer anymore. Still, they'll no doubt repeat it sometime.

Yes - I agree it was a bit exaggerated in places, although the 'punch up' near the end did actually occur.
#27
Quote from: Tatsujin on 10/29/2009, 01:04 PMbut still nothing can beat the good old SID chip from the c64, when it comes to uniqueness and warmness, even it was very limited in channels etc. :)
I'm a SID fan too, although I never had a C64.

There are a few Megadrive FM tunes I like a lot - Strider springs to mind for one.
#28
QuoteA: For most that have read up on an RGB mod (assuming if you want to do one you have) then you would generally know you will be replacing the 5 pin din with an 8 pin din.
Hi - does any one in the UK know where I can find one of these now. My regular supplier hasn't been able to get an 8-Pin DIN for ages (I've been trying to pick one up for a few years now) Everywhere else seems not to have them any more.

thanks.
#29
I had the same problem.

Replaced the laser myself and it was fixed.
#30
Yeah - I think I shopped there a few times - that was the shop in the Arndale centre?

I think I got more Megadrive stuff from there. Most of my PC Engine stuff came from the shop in the Corn Exchange.
#31
QuoteHell I'm not even sure why the fuck it took NASA so long to change to metric but I'm glad they did. 
http://www.cnn.com/TECH/space/9909/30/mars.metric/

Not soon enough though! I can't believe any engineer would use Imperial units, almost any scientific or engineering calculations are 1000x easier in Metric.
#32
So long as you get one with Composite Video Out you should be ok - most UK TV's these days will happily decode NTSC composite.

If that doesn't work, then you'll have to look at getting an RGB mod.
#33
Does it sync ok if you just use Comp video?

On RGB - does the sync problem only occur on some games or when the screen is bright?
#34
Hi,

I have the same monitor (somewhere - I haven't used it in years!)

The problem with this monitor is that you can not take the Composite Video and use that on the Composite Sync input, as the additional video signals confuse the monitor. It expects to see just sync signals.

There is a fairly simple fix, which involves using an off the shelf IC (chip) to strip out the Sync signal from the Composite Video.

The chip needed is LM1881. This used to be fairly easy to obtain (10 years ago) but I'm not sure any more.

http://www.gamesx.com/misctech/lm1881.htm

Circuit details are there. It's a very easy circuit to build, and you should be able to power it off the +5V output from the PC Engine video port as well.

If you have any other questions, let me know.
#35
I'd been interested to know how this goes!

What circuit are you using for the RGB amp? Is it using an existing chip/video encoder or is it going to be discrete transistors?
#36
Quote from: kungfukid on 03/10/2008, 06:37 PM(UK based if possible, anywhere else if shipping isn't too much).
I can fully recommend this one:

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=PW00748

UK based. The PSU is excellent, gives a rock steady 10V output, rated to 2A, so it will easily cope with a Duo. I've use this one for 4 years, the main thing I can say is that my Duo runs a hell of a lot cooler than it ever did with the jap PSU and step down transformer. As everyone knows - a cooler running DUO is one that will live a lot longer!

The only thing you will need to do is cut off the 2.1mm DC connector and fit the bigger DUO one. I've yet to find anyone who sells the correct DC plug for the Jap DUO, so you have to re-use the existing one. Also you'll need a standard PC 'kettle' lead, http://cpc.farnell.com/PL10109/electrical-lighting-security/product.us0?sku=UNBRANDED-MP5004, either buy it with it or use one you already have.
#37
Quote from: ceti alpha on 03/09/2008, 12:02 PM
Quoteit's thankfully not a big deal and totally fixable.  :)
Did you fix it yourself? If you know what caps got changed, that would be very helpful!

thanks,
Ravi
#38
Hi - I just tried changing the two 10 uF Caps (post op-amp), but it didn't fix my issue. The problem I have is that there's no (or very quiet) CD Audio for the first 3 or 4 mins that the Duo is turned on. Then all of a sudden it will work fine and keep working, so it isn't a major problem, but definitely one I'd like to fix!

Anyone had a similar issue and found which caps to change? I realise I could just change the lot, but I'm not sure I have the willpower to change more than a couple at a time! ](*,)
#39
If you value your sanity - Don't try to solder in surface mount caps as a replacement!  ](*,)

That is all.

P. S. - It worked  :lol:

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#40
LOL - I got an old pair of sunglasses and took one of the lenses out. Seems to work with the dark lens over the left eye.
#41
Quote from: Kitsunexus on 01/24/2008, 09:55 PMLuckily for you, I own the English version:
:lol:

I tried to delete all the corrupted saves, loaded Ys and resaved the good ones. Unfortunately it didn't work. I had to reformat in the end and that has fixed things. TBH - I wasn't that far into the game, so its no big loss.

Thanks for everyones help!

Ravi
#42
It does list the contents - but it looks like some of the file names are corrupt on the earlier saves (strange characters in the name), so it could well be that!

Thanks - I'll reformat tomorrow and update..
#43
Quote from: nat on 01/24/2008, 02:48 PMI think that says something along the lines of the backup memory is corrupted or not found.
OK - maybe I need to format the Duo's backup memory - there goes my Ys 4 save   :-({|=

Hopefully it's just that, and not the Tennokoe's Lithium battery that's dead :evil:
#44
I have 2 Tennokoe Banks, which to be honest, haven't been used for at least a year. I just tried them out again today, and both are showing this message:

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Can someone tell me what it says please!  [-o<
#45
Quote from: ogre on 01/18/2008, 10:13 AMThe way I added component was by amplfying the signal with a CXA1645P
I've been meaning to add RGB to my PCE Duo for a while - is this chip better than making your own RGB amp (like this: http://www.gamesx.com/rgbadd/duorgb.php)?

SCART Specs say you need 0.7 volt peak to peak. Will this chip do?

In fact if any one has done the RGB mod themselves, I'd be interested to hear their experiences.
#46
Quote from: TurboXray on 01/04/2008, 07:07 PMthen grab a laser replacement unit.
Yep. Just fitted a new laser 2 weeks ago to my DUO - works great!  :dance:
#47
Quote from: guest on 01/03/2008, 03:28 PMMaybe this tool intercepted your copy of Sapphire, now the douche is trying to pass it off as an original.  I pity the poor sucker that falls for his shit
He sold one a few weeks back for about £110 IIRC - I guess the buyer either sent it back or got pissed off, as no feedback has been left!
#48
Quote from: Sinistron on 12/28/2007, 10:05 AMI STILL haven't received my Sapphire.  Ludicrous. 
I got mine from his EBay auction last month - took about 4 days to get here (UK), I think it shipped from Germany or Austria. Now all I need to find is my damn Arcade Card so I can stop playing it on Magic Engine!
#49
Quote from: guyjin on 12/28/2007, 07:35 PM
Quote from: guest on 12/28/2007, 01:59 PMWord - it is also usable as a 1/8" stereo patch cable.  :wink:
So would a standard 1/8" stereo patch cable work?
if it's just an audio signal, wireless play should be trivial.
I would guess they just used the 3.5mm jack plugs as they are cheap, and they would only need 3 wires (Ground, Rx, and Tx)

The Rx and Tx line must get crossed over in the cable (so that each machine connects it's transmit line to the receive on the other)
If you use this cable as a stereo patch - I'm guessing the left and right channels get flipped?

It wouldn't be an audio signal, just a simple serial signal (9600 bits/sec or something) Theoretically it could be converted into a wireless format, I guess, if you can be bothered  :lol:
#50
Thanks for all the replies. Looks like this topic has opened an old can of worms!

Is Sapphire actually worth buying, even if it's a bootleg (paying a reasonable price of couse!)