10/31/2023: Localization News - Dead of the Brain 1!

No, NOT a trick, a Halloween treat! Presenting the Dead of the Brain 1 English patch by David Shadoff for the DEAD last official PC Engine CD game published by NEC before exiting the console biz in 1999! I helped edit/betatest and it's also a game I actually finished in 2023, yaaay! Shubibiman also did a French localization. github.com/dshadoff/DeadoftheBrain
twitter.com/NightWolve/PCENews
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Messages - D-Lite

#1
Quote from: Supremo_Lagarto on 12/04/2011, 11:17 PMThe Turbo Grafx is using the original AC Adapter which is 10.5 V and 730 mA, the Duo is using an AC adapter that is 10 V and 2000 mA.  That might not mean anything but there is a difference of half a volt there.  I know this has pretty well been ruled out, but just so I can witness it myself I might see if I get different behavior on the Turbo Grafx with a different AC adapter.

Okay. Tried 9 volt, 12 volt, 10 volt AC adapters. All with mA over the original Turbo Grafx range. No difference with the flash card on the Turbo Grafx. It always works. It must be internal to the Duo and Turbo Grafx.
If you test the actual output from any of those adapters they are guaranteed to not be the same as the listed spec on them.  Usually higher by a volt or two.
#2
Quote from: nat on 12/04/2011, 07:19 PMOn the system I have that it doesn't like, it will boot up to the game selection screen but freezes up either right when you select a game or the game will play for 30 seconds or so (usually with lots of graphical glitches) and then freeze up.

Mine acted like it was dead one time, right after I'd loaded a bunch of ROMs on it. I verified I'd set the region switch correctly in the software, loaded it again, and it started working again. I figured something must have gone wrong in the first ROM dump.

Short answer to your question: it just works like shit if your system has a poor +5v line on the cart slot.
Nat, you try adding a second +5V to the cart slot?
#3
Quote from: esteban on 12/02/2011, 11:51 PMI bought two extra pink controllers last year, so I'm all set.
As in spare controllers or controllers that are SUPER F'N PINK!?!?

We play Wii every weekend here.  Turns out it's the perfect console for 5-9 year olds.  Lots of New Super Mario.
#4
I think I'll throw in my two cents on this, being an actual organic chemist by trade.

We're dealing with two oxidizers, hydrogen peroxide and "Oxy", which is simply another type of peroxide, though really is sodium percarbonate, much weaker than peroxide itself.  I'm not at all sure both would be necessary here since we're dealing with two things that do the same thing, oxidize.  Simply you should be able to dip your console case in a bucket of just hydrogen peroxide and the process would work the same.  One benefit of H2O2 over bleach is that bleach f's up color.  The chloride itself is kinda nasty that way, but I would be curious to see the effect of toilet cleaner, which is a similar but less nasty reagent that bleach.  Specifically, we're talking about dimethyldichlorohydantoin, or chlorobromo or dibromo for that matter.  These may work well and are dirt freakin' cheap.

One thing that I understand but kinda wish didn't see is the use of UV light in conjunction with the peroxide slurry.  All the UV light does is decompose the peroxide reagent quicker.  Prolonged UV exposure will of course cause bleaching of the casing, but not for the timeline set in the process.  Has the group studied the effect without the UV light?  Another option, if it's found necessary to have the light, is a catalyst that activates the peroxide, causing the same potential acceleration of the reaction.  In chemistry we use tiny amounts of things like AIBN (controlled, explosive substance) or metal-based reagents like TEMPO or some such.  Haha, perhaps UV light is the safest option.

And for the record regarding nat's point about re-yellowing, I agree that the process is nice in the short term but some plastics will just yellow all over again.  This is not random though, as you can tell by the state of various units we've all seen.  It's highly environmental and can be related to atmospheric conditions such as temperature and humidity, smoke, UV exposure (that cuts both ways, in the obvious absence of something like, say, peroxide), etc.  I'm not so sure what causes it and if the process of yellowing can be avoided post-cleaning.  And to re-emphasize nat's point, you are treating the symptom, not the process.  Any form of bleaching, with sodium hypochlorite (bleach) or peroxide or peracids or percarbonates is simply bleaching out color just like you'd do with your hair or shirt or similar.  You are not changing the process that causes the yellow and unless that process is isolated or removed it will definitely yellow again.
#5
Quote from: guest on 11/28/2011, 11:15 AMWelcome back, Dean; other than the great repair threads and some nice raffle goodies, ya haven't missed too terrible much.

P.S. - Still waiting on some prices for some US games...  :)
Haha, yes, I have that amongst the things on my to do list.  For once I have all mods taken care of ;)

Funny story about the outage here.  I happened to stroll by super early one morning since I was randomly up and unable to go back to sleep.  Checked about 5 minutes worth of stuff and then BAM the forum went out.  So I hope it wasn't me.

I missed the place for sure and I'll try to be around regularly.  Seems like repairs and whatnot have really taken off which is great.  I was hoping the forum wouldn't die after the outage/attack since it's been such a great resource.  Props to Aaron for bringing it back and so quickly.

RoyVegas BigTymer™, nice.
#6
Quote from: incrediblehark on 11/12/2011, 05:09 PM...I wonder if there's a copy of Magical Chase in there?


I do.
I've watched it and thought "the smell must be horrendous". 

And yes, I wonder what goodies could be hiding.
#7
Been a while, thought I'd rejoin the ranks of the posting/contributing.  At quick glance around I see some awesome mod/repair work too.  This has always been one of the best stops for help (that and the NFG forums where I cut my teeth many years back).

Life is busy as usual for me but things are going fairly well these days.  Can't complain.

So, what's up?
#8
Quote from: neoxeno on 05/26/2010, 11:50 PM
Quote from: nectarsis on 05/26/2010, 08:18 PMTry PMing blueraven..he works on units, he may be able to fix it, or have an extra unit.  Chops also works on units to.
Someone already tried to repair it. He told me that there is good chances that the board is fried. Thanks for the hint, I'll communicate with these people.
Shoot me an e-mail at dean@multimods.com
I've got some already repaired systems (console only if you want) and may take that dead Duo as partial trade.
#9
Quote from: kattare on 05/14/2010, 02:18 PMHeh, I gotta give the guy credit for tryin' tho.  How many other folks just throw away stuff like this?
Oh, I agree.  Still makes me queezy.
#10
Quote from: guest on 05/14/2010, 09:55 AM
Quote from: rag-time4 on 05/13/2010, 06:20 PMI got that 10uf cap through the proper holes... but the soldering got a bit messy. In the process of working in that area I may have damaged traces as well.
Stop!!  This is the e-police!  Put down the soldering iron and step away from the PCB.  :lol:

It's a bit too late for your Duo-R, but you (and anyone else with a similar lack of experience) might be better served by practicing your soldering skills on a few junk PCBs before risking damage to something good.
I've been cringing through this thread as well.
#11
You could remove the shielding as long as you leave that heat sink.  Use some aviation shears and cut that part out.
#12
Quote from: shaysbadboy on 05/11/2010, 06:50 PMYour site was where I got my info from I just didn't wrap the wires around the pins I'll give it a try when I get home. Thanks for the info.
Ah, cool then.  Yes, the wrapping of the wires I find is the easiest and best way in fact.  You can wrap around roughly twice and you can do 5 at a time then solder them down easily since they hold quite well when wrapped.
#13
Quote from: shaysbadboy on 05/11/2010, 05:16 PMWould wrapping wire be better?
Would be easier and cleaner.  Cut the pins, wrap the wire around them, then solder on that.  Gives a nice solid connection.

EDIT:  In fact check the link in my sig and go to the Region Mod part of my site.  Works for any region mod and shows pics of what I'm saying.
#14
What are you using for a soldering iron and solder?  Using wrapping wire as well?  Which type of region mod?
#15
Quote from: rag-time4 on 05/09/2010, 01:27 AMI've installed new 47uf caps, but I'm getting the same symptom: solid color screen with audio hum.

I notice that if I insert a HuCard, I can see some scrolling on screen. There is a horizontal section slightly darker than the rest which scrolls upward.
Does it change with HuCard?  All the indications are you've got a short somewhere.
#16
Quote from: blueraven on 05/05/2010, 11:14 PMD-Lite,

Does it look anything like this? hucards gameplay worked fine on this one:

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=6033.msg101922#msg101922
Sometimes yes.  But there are times where it just completely fails on power up with only the solid color screen. 
Did you get the RAM swapped?  SoZ, any experience with the RAM failing like this and affecting overall startup?
#17
Quote from: kattare on 05/04/2010, 04:34 PMIs there any pattern to the 1/2/3 events at boot?

eg, always 1 after it's been sitting an hour, always 3 after it's been on for 5 mins, etc, etc, or does it appear to be completely random?

I think my next step would be to replace the 7805's, but that's mostly a stab in the dark.
Totally random which makes me think it's a power problem.  The leg into the regulators is already high, don't know how or why.
#18
Ok, the title is not telling the whole tale. 

Working on a Duo for someone and the problem is that on power up, you get one of these events:
1.  solid color screen, sometimes with a hum
2.  graphic and sometimes sound distortion (jumbled, not blurred/wavy)
3.  perfect startup and play

Now this happens with both HuCard or the BIOS screen, so it doesn't appear to be slot related.

Things I've tried so far with no change in outcome:
1.  Replaced all large caps
2.  Swapped AC inlets
3.  Replaced the fuse and diode
4.  Different power supplies
5.  resoldered all cart slot points
6.  Resoldered at heat sinks/voltage regulators
7.  Checked all IC contacts for shorts

The only thing I can find that seems a bit unusual is that the voltage at the voltage regulators is coming in at 12.4V whereas on other systems I have it's more like 11.2-11.4V.  The regulators are putting out the normal 5.0V, but I'm wondering if the voltage coming in is the problem.  The problem there is that like I said all points leading into the regulators have been either swapped or checked and seem fine. 

WHAT AM I MISSING????
#19
Quote from: CGQuarterly on 04/28/2010, 11:03 AM
Quote from: masaruh on 04/28/2010, 07:20 AMJibbajaba: What NES do you own? The american NES2? I have worked with the Famicom a bit and it has close to disgusting vertical lines, especially in blue colours. But those are not from the amp, they are in the video and comes from interference from the data lines on the board. Although Nintendo didn't do that mistake with the NES and I would be suprised if they had made it again on the NES2... Although we are talking about Nintendo...
No.  I have an American model 1 NES that I modded for RGB output.  The vertical lines that I'm talking about are not the ones that plague the model 2.  I suspect that the lines are caused by the RGB amp that I built when I did the mod.  I could swear I read something about it in the RGB forum in NFGames, but I can't seem to find it.  The lines are faint and don't really bother me, but if I can build a better amp that will improve my mod, then of course I'm going to do it.

I ordered the parts last night from Mouser.  As an amusing aside, I could not pick Priority Mail as a shipping option because among the things that I ordered was one CR2032 battery.  Apparently batteries are a regulated substance and can not be transported on a plane, so now I have to wait for UPS ground.  Sucks because I was hoping to build the amp this weekend.  I am getting REALLY tired of playing my TG16 in composite video.  I play every other system I have in RGB so I'm used to it, which makes playing something in composite look really bad.

Chris
The CR2032 is probably the only thing RadioShack is good for these days.
#20
You can lift the spindle by prying it up as akav said.  Use a screwdriver or similar and wedge it under and carefully lift it.  The seat should be about 1/16" above the plastic cover that's on the CD carriage.
#21
Quote from: offsidewing on 04/06/2010, 08:49 PMNot to hijack your thread, but how much better is the video quality with an RGB mod?  Could you hook it up to component inputs, or just a 15-pin monitor input?

Anyways, I'm ignint when it come to RGB and the PCE/Turbo, but curious (like a 19 year old co-ed on spring break in Cancun).
It's definitely better than pretty much anything else in terms of signal and can be converted to component externally.  And you could put it through SCART or any other format plug, just what you choose.  But the signal needs amping from the Turbo.
#22
I usually pull it off the S-Video circuit when I do that, but I'm going to do a Duo without S-Video, but RGB.  Thoughts, opinions?
#23
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Price Check
04/06/2010, 06:22 PM
Quote from: esteban on 04/06/2010, 05:41 PM
Quote from: D-Lite on 04/06/2010, 04:07 PMEither way he's selling to me for $132.32 and a bag of donuts so you can all just move along.
I offered him $132.32 + bag of Cool Ranch Doritos. Crap. :(

Donuts.
If he pushed for krullers or bearclaws I would've pulled the offer though.
#24
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Price Check
04/06/2010, 04:07 PM
Here's the thing as has been alluded to:  you're going to make the most money doing two things:
1.  Selling individually
2.  Selling on eBay with good pics and descriptions

But that being said, you will be packing and mailing 50-100 items.  You will be paying eBay fees.  You will likely have deadbeat bidders.  Those things together make a single, large sale attractive in this situation.  I'm sure you have good offers already and it'll make it easier for you in the long run to punt a bit of the $$ for the convenience.  Also, the variance in price on the items makes a lump sum purchase a bit more stable for you as the seller.  Probably.

Either way he's selling to me for $132.32 and a bag of donuts so you can all just move along.
#25
Quote from: geise on 04/01/2010, 11:13 AMThe TV Show is one of those fairly rare games.  I never see any for sale on ebay.  There was one that was $199 but that was because it was Mad Gear.  Someone bought it though or he failed to re-list it.  The only place I ever see it is on yahoo japan or online Japanese game shops.  Even on there they are expensive.  Yahoo Japan seems kind of like ebay for overpriced games.  There's two on Amazon.jp for sale for a nice ass raping  :-& http://www.amazon.co.jp/THE-TV-SHOW-%E3%80%90PC%E3%82%A8%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B8%E3%83%B3%E3%80%91/dp/B0000ZPVJU
I bought that one.  He eventually dropped to $150 and with the spine and not faded it was worth it to me at that point.
#26
Quote from: guest on 04/03/2010, 08:05 AMi will take the turbo tie instead but the shoes are cool, me likey the design... i just cant wear those... i am over age :(
The tie may end up being an impulse buy shortly.
#27
Somewhere here I have the promo bag for Bazaru De Gozaru I think.  Should really get around to taking pics of the oddball stuff...
#28
Quote from: unclebugspayton on 03/30/2010, 04:20 PMone i bought from ebay a couple of days ago. Did the duo i sent you come?
I'm betting the laser is fine on it, just needs a pot adjustment.
#29
Which Duo do you need this for?

EDIT:  And when I ask that, I mean which of the Duo systems you own, not necessarily which model since they all use the same laser.
#30
That is one dope dude.
#31
I should try it someday. I DO have a few beige boxes here somewhere. 7100 included I believe
#32
LARGE pics can now be found here.  More details to follow and probably it's own post soon too.

http://www.multimods.com/IntLink/
#33
Quote from: guest on 03/26/2010, 09:21 AM
Quote from: D-Lite on 03/25/2010, 10:00 PMAlas, I'm a Mac guy so the thing is mostly worthless in terms of use.
Isn't it a SCSI interface?  That was a standard of Apples of yore (until about ten years ago), unlike PCs where it was seldom found outside of workstations and servers.
Yes, but like you have there "until about ten years ago".  You can still find PCs with the SCSI port, but no Macs other than the bigger towers for years now.

Did you need software/drivers for it?  I would assume.
#34
I'm betting either the modder grounded the audio jacks too close the power input or poorly.  Try just running a wire from the audio jack ground (the outer silver part) to anything big and metal in the house.
#35
Quote from: guest on 03/25/2010, 08:03 PM
Quote from: RoyVegas on 03/25/2010, 03:52 PM
Quote from: D-Lite on 03/25/2010, 01:03 PM"Mostly".  It looks good, but there's elements that suggest "unfinished".
Me wants to see!  Pics Pics!
yeah more importantly, does it WORK>? can you use it?
Alas, I'm a Mac guy so the thing is mostly worthless in terms of use.
#36
Quote from: guest on 03/25/2010, 12:50 PMThe one you have is kind of a 'finished' product, isn't it?  I figure there's got to be an earlier more MacGyverish version out there somewhere, one made with lots of electrical tape, rubber bands, and paper clips.
"Mostly".  It looks good, but there's elements that suggest "unfinished".
#37
Seriously, I'm curious how many of a proto piece of hardware they would have made.
#38
Quote from: guest on 03/25/2010, 06:25 AMscrew postin pics!

how mush you wants for it? :D
Three sealed Magical Chase US?  :P
#39
So I need to ask.  Does anyone know of another Intelligent Link other than the one I have?  I've been trying to figure out if mine is thee proto or not.  I got it a few years back from Turbo Zone Direct's Steve.  I'll have to post pics.
#40
Had a chance to do a quick test and so far it doesn't seem to be pin 1 grounding.  Need to keep plowing through.
#41
Quote from: Charlie on 03/23/2010, 03:38 AMTo the best of my memory:
Pin 1, tied to ground (pin 18) on card = card present; therefore, should be high w/o card.

Might also want to check the Reset, pin 36; low for reset, high for run

Charlie
Fantastic, I'll check that first, thanks.
#42
Quote from: nat on 03/22/2010, 02:34 PMI wonder if something in the HuCard port is f--ed up and it thinks there is a HuCard in there when there really isn't, thus it's not even trying to boot from the on-board BIOS. I'd check that first...
Good idea.  What's the "detect" pin on the slot?  Is there one that just checks for feedback or is it merely a completed circuit that signals presence?
#43
Know how your system shows the blue/orange/whatever solid color screen when the HuCard is in and not reading correctly?  Yeah, I'm seeing that with no HuCard on a Duo, instead of the normal Super CD Rom "Press Run" screen.  But the system boots HuCards fine.  So is it not seeing the System 3 on chip?  I just finished a cap overhaul on it and the sound is fine.  I haven't tried putting a system card in the Hu slot, probably try that later tonight.  Any idea?  What IC is responsible for the system so I can track down any pulled/crossed traces?
#44
It would so much more awesome with a RomRom Amp in it and a Virtual Cushion sprawled out in front.
#45
Quote from: kattare on 03/17/2010, 06:40 PMHere's another recent system, went for $110 + $12 shipping:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Turbo-Duo-System_W0QQitemZ270544303426QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item3efdb27542

No games, but not bad.
How did I miss that?  I swear there's something F'd about searching on eBay sometimes.
#46
Quote from: Raizen1984 on 03/08/2010, 10:00 PM
Quote from: offsidewing on 03/08/2010, 09:33 PMWas I greedy, no.
Actually, to a small extent, you were.  Taking advantage of someone's desire to have something to get more than market value is what I would consider greedy.
Obviously you haven't met many baseball card shop dealers.  Talk about taking advantage of people.  If you get the chance to stick it back to one of them you should.  I've met a few decent guys in my day but they're a motley crew of pricks looking to make money on little kids.
#47
He's got a new Atari XL that looks great, but $300 is too much to spend on something that may arrive looking like it was delivered by UPS.
#48
Quote from: OldRover on 02/27/2010, 05:27 PMIt was initially pushed two weeks to compensate for delayed artwork, but as the final artwork still hasn't been received, it's at a standstill. Once all the artwork is ready, it will be about two weeks of additional development, then perhaps another two weeks of final testing before it's considered release-ready. Getting it manufactured should be less than a month.

If anyone wants to back out of their order, simply send me a message and I will grant a full refund. Of course, if you're one of the first to order and are in line for the bonus item, backing out now will revoke your bonus item, and it will be given to the next in line.
What's the distribution plan for it?  Anything more than through your site?  I've already preordered, just wondering about total reach on the launch.
#49
Quote from: mrhaboobi on 03/05/2010, 04:25 PMyup thats the seller.
Dammit.  I've got a few things I'm waiting to get from him right now.  Nothing fancy or expensive, but it's taking FOREVER.
#50
Quote from: TheClash603 on 03/07/2010, 12:54 AMI thought I hit the dog's asshole gold mine.
Someday you're going to regret having committed those keystrokes to a "Post" button.