Update 1/6/18:
output resistor values updated. see here:
https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=18845.msg512644#msg512644
Prices are for items shipped inside of the USA. Other countries may have additional shipping cost. Payment accepted via paypal. Please do not add a note in paypal mentioning anything about mods or similar terminology.
Amp now has a THS7374 (with LPF bypassed) for amplification instead of a THS7314. THS7374 produces a sharper image than the THS7314. Also, most other amps for sale do not account for the non standard output of the PC Engine/TG16 and will have too bight of an output with washed out colors. This amp has proper output resistance and the display device will see it as 75 ohms. The amp comes with a piece of double side tape attached to the bottom.
Also available is sync stripper add-on board. Board outputs 75 ohm sync.
amp only = $20 shipped
amp + connector + euro scart cable = $40 shipped
amp + sync strip add-on + connector + euro scart cable + $44 shipped
Amp includes 2 4.7uf ceramic caps at no extra charge in case you want to do Viletim's jailbar fix.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509154117im_/https://i.imgur.com/iwmtZ77l.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114622im_/https://i.imgur.com/kPWEySnl.jpg)
Available are PCB mount 8 pin DIN (RGB pins pre trimmed and labeled) for consoles like the CoreGrafx, Turbo Duo, etc.. or circular panel mount 8 pin DIN for IFU-30, Tennokoe 2, etc...
Panel Mount's data sheet with dimensions: http://www.cui.com/product/resource/sd-xxls-series.pdf (http://www.cui.com/product/resource/sd-xxls-series.pdf)
mmmonkey has a good guide on how to install the PCB mount jack:
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/core-grafx-rgb-mod/ (http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/core-grafx-rgb-mod/)
I can also make the cable JP21 upon request. Also can make an 8 pin mini din cable upon request, but there is not much demand for those so not going to keep any premade after I run out of what I have made already.
Here are a few pics of the amp (old style but new one is the same size) installed in a console:
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114621im_/https://i.imgur.com/5jE658el.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114623im_/https://i.imgur.com/lR1aeREl.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114620im_/https://i.imgur.com/i6lSVkxl.jpg)
previous rev amp installed on a duo
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114623im_/https://i.imgur.com/N6k15T8l.jpg)
lowered price of TG16
Such great info here.
I have a few kits premade. Yet I could use some tips on sourcing mini din ports and and cables.
any helps would be great!
Quote from: retrofixes on 04/13/2015, 12:38 AMSuch great info here.
I have a few kits premade. Yet I could use some tips on sourcing mini din ports and and cables.
any helps would be great!
you can get mini din ports on ebay or an electonics webstore, like mouser. cables i got from monoprice.
Hi Can you explain what these do? RGB amps?
Quote from: guestPlease explain what these do.
All Turobgrafx and PC Engine consoles are capable of outputting RGB with a mod. The signal is too weak though and needs to be amplified. You can see here for more information about rgb mods and the chip that is included in this circuit: https://www.retrorgb.com/thsamps.html
bump. amps/cables still available
bump. back home from vacation.
These amps work great. Installed one in a DUO-R to be used with a framemeister X-RGB mini and no jail bars can be seen. Amazing video quality.
Amp looked well made and even had some double sided sticky tape on it for easy install.
Highly recommend :)
Quote from: mickcris on 05/08/2015, 05:21 AMbump. back home from vacation.
I have a Duo that was RGB modded by a member on here and he also made a BNC cable for me but now I want a scart cable since all my other RGB systems are scart. Can I assume that your cable will work with my Duo or is it dependent on what RGB amp was used?
Quote from: King_Vidiot on 05/12/2015, 02:14 PMQuote from: mickcris on 05/08/2015, 05:21 AMbump. back home from vacation.
I have a Duo that was RGB modded by a member on here and he also made a BNC cable for me but now I want a scart cable since all my other RGB systems are scart. Can I assume that your cable will work with my Duo or is it dependent on what RGB amp was used?
depends on if they wired the din jack the same or the colors would be off
Quote from: King_Vidiot on 05/12/2015, 02:14 PMQuote from: mickcris on 05/08/2015, 05:21 AMbump. back home from vacation.
I have a Duo that was RGB modded by a member on here and he also made a BNC cable for me but now I want a scart cable since all my other RGB systems are scart. Can I assume that your cable will work with my Duo or is it dependent on what RGB amp was used?
if thats the one i did, the RGB mod is standard, i just put a sync separator in the cable itself
I have 18 amps built up and ready to ship. Not sure yet if I'm going to do anymore to sell after these though.
bump. still have amps available.
got my rgb cable for my duo-r today.. top notch quality and speedy service!
I can recommend these too. I recently ordered a couple of amps along with leads and various other parts from mickcris and can confirm they are of high quality. Communication was great and everything arrived exactly as requested. Great service, thanks again.
bump. have cables and amps ready to ship
i can vouch for the build quality, just inspected one of his
bump. i have some made up, but will be moving in a few weeks. i am going to try to finish up the partially built amps i have and make some more cables later this week.
Got about 35 amps/connectors and 20 regular din and 10 mini din cables made up. I am moving in a couple weeks and most of my stuff (including tools) will be in storage for a bit till I find somewhere permanent to live. I may need an extra day or two to ship during that time, but I should be able to keep this stuff with me and hopefully it will last a bit.
I figure I'll put in a plug here. Mickcris recapped my duo and gave me an RGB and a region mod for a pretty reasonable rate. His RGB amp is fantastic; I'm enjoying super sharp and colorful graphics coming out of my Duo.
If you're on the fence about an RGB output mod, I'd highly recommend his amp.
Quote from: mickcris on 07/06/2015, 01:19 AMGot about 35 amps/connectors and 20 regular din and 10 mini din cables made up. I am moving in a couple weeks and most of my stuff (including tools) will be in storage for a bit till I find somewhere permanent to live. I may need an extra day or two to ship during that time, but I should be able to keep this stuff with me and hopefully it will last a bit.
I hate moving. Hoping it goes well.
thanks. have almost all my stuff packed up. it has not been fun but will be over in a couple more days. at least until i have to move it back out of storage. :)
Moving sucks. No matter how well you try to prepare, something inevitably goes missing. I am still missing a sealed Sword and Serpent for NES oh about 3 moves ago. It was a gift I was going to play after I moved but I never found it since then. If it ever turns up, I'll just eBay it, and let some fool pay way too much for it, then pay too much again to have VGA case and seal slapped on it and spend the next 8 years trying to sell on eBay to recoup that investment.
Hello hello! Are these still for sale? Thanks!
yeah, i made up a bunch before i packed my soldering equipment up. so i have plenty available.
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Bump
cables with built in sync stripper now available. updated 1st post.
Bump
Just wanted to throw in a vouch that this work and price is the real deal, very helpful seller as well. Pleasure to deal with :)
very helpful indeed :)
I want to say that Mickcris is a real stand up guy. I fully endorse him, and his offerings. He helped me when I needed it the most. You will not be disappointed.
Thanks, man.
bump
Fantastic seller and incredibly helpful and patient with help/advice with installing the mod.
I will need to grab a few more amps. Possibly 3 plus PCB mount DIN8s. How much would that be with postage to Australia? Thanks!
Quote from: SegaSonic91 on 12/28/2015, 11:42 AMFantastic seller and incredibly helpful and patient with help/advice with installing the mod.
I will need to grab a few more amps. Possibly 3 plus PCB mount DIN8s. How much would that be with postage to Australia? Thanks!
thanks. sent you a PM
bumping. new console added
lowered prices for the new year and tried to clean up the first post a little
bump.
Purchased white Turbo Duo with RGB mod from mickcris. Arrived quickly and as described with great extras he threw in for me. It's working great and couldn't be happier. I was initially having problems with the picture and he took the time to help me troubleshoot the problem and even sent me a second cable to try and help me out. Ultimately the problem was on my end and had nothing to do with his mods. Now it is working great and I'm very thankful!
bump. added a recapped Turbo Express since the last thread went so well
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I want to get one!
I'm currently using this converter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1)
It works great for my SEGA Genesis, Saturn, PS1, etc. and other consoles on my Samsung TV. For those consoles i use a CSynce cable. Do I need to regular cable you offer? (No sync strip, correct?)
Also, if i install this in the core US T16 unit, will the CD and docking system play through it? Or do i still have to use the AV Composite on the docking unit?
Quote from: spawnshop on 02/07/2016, 02:31 PMI want to get one!
I'm currently using this converter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1)
It works great for my SEGA Genesis, Saturn, PS1, etc. and other consoles on my Samsung TV. For those consoles i use a CSynce cable. Do I need to regular cable you offer? (No sync strip, correct?)
Also, if i install this in the core US T16 unit, will the CD and docking system play through it? Or do i still have to use the AV Composite on the docking unit?
The regular cable I have, with composite video for sync, would work fine.
If you install in a TG16 then you still can use RGB on the CD games. You just need to get sound out of the dock. The way I would do it though would be to install it in the dock so you dont have to use 2 cables. You would have to rig something up to splice the audio and video back together before your converter, but it wouldnt be too difficult.
Quote from: mickcris on 02/07/2016, 06:16 PMQuote from: spawnshop on 02/07/2016, 02:31 PMI want to get one!
I'm currently using this converter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1)
It works great for my SEGA Genesis, Saturn, PS1, etc. and other consoles on my Samsung TV. For those consoles i use a CSynce cable. Do I need to regular cable you offer? (No sync strip, correct?)
Also, if i install this in the core US T16 unit, will the CD and docking system play through it? Or do i still have to use the AV Composite on the docking unit?
The regular cable I have, with composite video for sync, would work fine.
If you install in a TG16 then you still can use RGB on the CD games. You just need to get sound out of the dock. The way I would do it though would be to install it in the dock so you dont have to use 2 cables. You would have to rig something up to splice the audio and video back together before your converter, but it wouldnt be too difficult.
Cool, thanks for the tips! I'm OK with getting sound from the Dock. The extra cable isn't an issue.
But I'm assuming that would only be the CD games and that the hucards would be OK from the core system?
Yes. That is correct.
Bump
I'm going to bump this and say that these are the best RGB amps I've ever used. I actually put these amps together myself now for my own use. However, before I started to do that mickris helped me out a lot and I could definitely see the quality in the design. Best picture quality I've seen from any r_g_b amp I've tried.
Bump
bump!
bump. at the request of leonk, have started the process of updating the amp board to viletim's suggested resistance at the output. Will look the same as the previous version, but will be more correct. The old design was not hurting anything, but might as well make it better. Here is viletim's explanation:
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4822.msg34061#msg34061 (http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4822.msg34061#msg34061)
"Unfortunately the RGB signal the PC Engine is not 0.7 Vpp, it's actually 0.8 Vpp (I know because I bought a PC Engine a few months ago). To compensate for this I suggest attenuating the output slightly. Instead of a 75 ohm resistor in series with the output, you could use 86 ohms in series and 586 ohms to ground. This way it still looks like a 75 ohm output to the outside world. For E24 resistor values try 91 in series and 470 to ground. Not perfect but good enough - 0.67 Vpp is much better than 0.80 Vpp."
So this 0.8 is with the PCE but since all the other consoles use the same graphics chips this retains also for all consoles after the original PCE correct?
Because we pull the color directly from the chip itself it doesn't get processed through anything but the amp hence the brightness differences?
Just wanted to ask and maybe clarify a bit more. Also, bump :)
I'm not a video engineer so not sure if i will explain it correctly but i will try. But yes, this applies to all PC Engine and TurboGrafx systems.
The standard RGB signal is 0.7 volts. After amplification on the THS7314 or NJM2267 (both are 6dB amps), this is what the output of the console should be sending to the monitor as it is what it is expecting.
http://www.syncblaster.com/RGBfaq.html (http://www.syncblaster.com/RGBfaq.html)
When you amplify the SNES or N64 with one of these amps it produces 0.7v, but when amplifying the signal from the pc engine it is 0.8v. So the voltage being too high will make the picture too bright. I have not actually measured it myself, but the output of the PC Engine RGB lines should measure around 0.4v before amplification and on an N64 measure around 0.35v.
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-amplification.htm (http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-amplification.htm)
The reason the output resistance was changed from 75 ohms to 100 ohms was to compensate for this. Doing it with the 91 ohm (with 470 ohm parallel to ground) makes it appear to be around 75 ohms to the monitor. Before this amp was not taking into account that the monitor is also expecting 75 ohms along with 0.7v. This new design corrects that. Although the 100 ohm resistors on the output were not going to damage anything.
it gets a bit more complicated then that
the 6260 uses a Vref-lo and Vref-hi to set the top and bottom of the RGB output, so it can differ between systems, but generally doesnt
also the output rigidity of the 6260 is quite low making its output differ depending on what amp its driving
I got a sample batch of the new pcbs in the other day. Have sent a couple out to get some feedback before I make an order for more boards.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114838im_/https://i.imgur.com/GuZL9rXl.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114834im_/https://i.imgur.com/WQsryqnl.jpg)
they are the same overall size as the old boards
I made a video installing the new RGB amp. it is a bit long for just an amp. I even cut out a lot of crap because I found out I ramble and apparently I very much like to ramble a lot. :)
So... Here is the link of me installing the new RGB amp from Mickcris.
http://youtu.be/W7qroEx2HK0
Btw, its a bit fuzzy, blurry, but hopefully it is good enough. Let me know your thoughts on youtube and I will try to do more hardware stuff and hopefully, eventually get better cameras and stuff to make it better.
You sound different to what I imagined. I don't know why.
OP updated. There are a few new boards available and have the old ones discounted if you dont care about the resistors being soldered to the back (its the same circuit).
Quote from: wildfruit on 05/10/2016, 01:03 PMYou sound different to what I imagined. I don't know why.
Not sure if good or bad... :D
got my shipment of pcbs in. should have enough that i will never have to order anymore. just need to start on building up some more. I have 5 ready to go. still also have about 10 "fixed" versions available also.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114837im_/https://i.imgur.com/abToU9Nl.jpg)
switched to tantalum caps on the output to lower the height of the board
Bump
bump. still have a few "fixed" boards left and some new style ready to ship.
Hi bud... Do you ship to the UK and if so how much???
Thanks!
Quote from: shugs81 on 08/04/2016, 01:18 AMHi bud... Do you ship to the UK and if so how much???
Thanks!
I do. Depends on how much it weighs. I just charge whatever it costs to ship.
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I tied out a new install location on the duo now that the amps are pretty low profile. Replaced a different amp with mine:
https://imgur.com/a/gXniJ
Ignore that hole the wires are going through. The previous modder drilled that and I just used it cause it was there. You can just bring the wires up on the back of the PCB, directly behind that hole. I also put some kapton tape on the shield below the amp just in case it would ever fall (which isnt very likely). There is still plenty of clearance between the caps on the amp pcb and shielding.
I will probably take some more pics when I do another one that doesn't have extra holes in it.
:shock: Looks awesome! Those last install photos were incredibly clean.
...and that is one huge bag of chips :mrgreen:
Quote from: blueraven on 10/15/2016, 12:42 AM:shock: Looks awesome! Those last install photos were incredibly clean.
...and that is one huge bag of chips :mrgreen:
Thanks. Would be nice if all those pcbs already had the components soldered to them. :)
Did another one, but this one was from scratch so no extra holes all over the place.
https://imgur.com/a/DazFG
everything fits nicely
(https://i.imgur.com/pWZ7PWB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N6k15T8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2A12Rfy.jpg)
turbografx system added
bump. amp has been updated and now uses a THS734 instead of a THS7314.
Ever put one of these in a Laseractive? Just wondering how the output from there will look.
Quote from: guest on 01/21/2017, 10:17 PMEver put one of these in a Laseractive? Just wondering how the output from there will look.
I have not. I'm sure it can be done though. I think I've seen somewhere about doing it, but it only works in the pce/tg16 module and not laser active specific games iirc
Quote from: mickcris on 01/22/2017, 01:28 AMQuote from: guest on 01/21/2017, 10:17 PMEver put one of these in a Laseractive? Just wondering how the output from there will look.
I have not. I'm sure it can be done though. I think I've seen somewhere about doing it, but it only works in the pce/tg16 module and not laser active specific games iirc
Oh yeah, I know about the limitations of the RGB, basically it can only take the RGB from the PAC not the LD since the video is natively in composite. Other implementations I've seen for RGB on the LA make it so that you basically have RGB for both the Genesis and PCE PACs.
I guess I'm basically just wondering if the tweaks that have been done for this chip to make it optimal for the PCE would impact the stronger RGB signal that is sent by default from the Genesis PAC.
i never really looked into how it was done before. but yes, it should make the output for the gensis a little darker, but it would make the output for the tg16 look right. if you use an amp that has the 75 ohm resistors, the opposite would happen. this is assuming that the PAC is just a tg16 consoles shoved inside of it as i have never really looked into this before.
you could maybe rig up some sort of switch for the output resistors to swap between different ones.
bump. have lots of amps ready to ship
I have 4 of the previous rev amp with the ths7314 for a discounted price is anyone is interested.
(https://i.imgur.com/g7cPvBZl.jpg)
price is $12 a piece shipped if you are in the USA. if you are outside of the USA, there might be a small shipping charge also.
all gone
Installed one of mickcris boards in my personal Duo R this weekend. Can't recommend it enough. That and I hear he is a rather handsome fellow as well as a gentleman.
Quote from: MobiusStripTech on 02/26/2017, 08:19 PMInstalled one of mickcris boards in my personal Duo R this weekend. Can't recommend it enough. That and I hear he is a rather handsome fellow as well as a gentleman.
haha. thanks. :oops:
have replaced the sync strip scart cable with a small add on board to be installed in the console. It could also be installed in the scart head if you really wanted to, but better to do it inside the console. Board outputs 75 ohm sync, but could be easily modified to output TTL sync if one required it.
Works great, thanks!
regular sized 8 pin din euro scart cables now have a pcb
(https://imgur.com/dRuVCSFl.jpg)
I was thinking this would make building them quicker but that's not really the case. Still, they look a bit nicer than my previous cables with the all the ground jumpers.
Quote from: mickcris on 05/28/2017, 07:18 AMregular sized 8 pin din euro scart cables now have a pcb
(https://imgur.com/dRuVCSFl.jpg)
I was thinking this would make building them quicker but that's not really the case. Still, they look a bit nicer than my previous cables with the all the ground jumpers.
How can I go about ordering one of these? I'm hoping it will address the audio hum from my Duo R
Quote from: mario64 on 07/24/2017, 09:23 PMQuote from: mickcris on 05/28/2017, 07:18 AMregular sized 8 pin din euro scart cables now have a pcb
(https://imgur.com/dRuVCSFl.jpg)
I was thinking this would make building them quicker but that's not really the case. Still, they look a bit nicer than my previous cables with the all the ground jumpers.
How can I go about ordering one of these? I'm hoping it will address the audio hum from my Duo R
Sent you a pm
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I have updated the amp with output resistor values closer to the ideal values of 86 ohm with a 586 ohm to ground. The ideal values can only be done with 4 resistors so have changed to the closest I could get it with 2. Now using an 86.6 ohm resistor with a 604 ohm resistor to ground. Both resistors are 0.1% tolerance. See the math below:
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210914054505im_/https://i.imgur.com/M22k3bg.jpeg)
https://i.imgur.com/M22k3bg.jpeg
since im no longer selling these, i shared the files if anyone wants to build there own
https://oshpark.com/profiles/mickcris
(https://web.archive.org/web/20210523114622im_/https://i.imgur.com/iwmtZ77l.jpg)
Nice looking amp, so how did it compare to turbokon's (http://www.tg16pcemods.com/) ? Just curious, even with discontinuing it.
see the 1st post. that amp uses 75 ohm resistors which make the output too bright.
Are you going to make more eventually? I think they are great amps and used them in my laseractive.
Quote from: guest on 05/25/2018, 01:41 PMAre you going to make more eventually? I think they are great amps and used them in my laseractive.
I dont plan on it. I got sick of soldering them. I was doing every one by hand so not the most efficient method.
console5 still has some kits if you are interested in soldering one together
https://console5.com/store/ths7374-rgb-pcb-kit-for-nec-turbo-grafx-turbo-duo-pc-engine.html
or if someone on here wants to get some boards made from the link above and sell them pre built that's fine too. I just got tired of doing it.
also, mobiusstriptech informed me of this earlier today
http://youtu.be/sTbZNduCSto
they should be selling what is the same thing soon (not that im really supporting these guys, but that might be the only option to get on pre-soldered since i'm no longer selling them).
the v1.0 circuit was an update to micro's original with viletim's brightness fix added. then the newest version just swapped out the ths7314 for the ths7374 and made the parts smaller. Its still basically the same circuit from the data sheet.
https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4822.msg34061#msg34061
Man, that assembly line makes me appreciate even more what you were doing.
I'm glad they are doing a bit of QA on them at the end but still, that video has some interesting comments going on.
It has come to my attention that there is a mistake on the 7374 PCB. The 4th output is unused and is tied to ground while it should be floating. This is causing the IC to run hotter than normal. I would think the risk is fairly low as some of these have been in use for almost 2 years now. My guess would be that it running a bit hotter will cause the amp to wear out faster. Its also a possibility that the 4th channel could just go out and the chip return to normal temps. The temp its running at is still below the continuous operation long term reliability max temp. Having said that, I have not had any reports of any of them failing yet but you may want to either modify the board or discontinue using it.
I tested one and after running for an hour, I measured it with my Fluke 87 meter and its running at 65 °C. With the 4th output floating the temp is 30°C. Per the data sheet:
Maximum junction temperature, continuous operation, long-term reliability is +125 °C
You can fix this by lifting that leg. Here is pic with an arrow pointing to the pin that needs lifted
https://imgur.com/a/cMeWI3l
(https://i.imgur.com/KUltBah.jpg)
I found it easiest to just de-solder that side of the IC, lift/break off the leg, then re solder that side down.
If you purchased one of these and would like me to lift the pin for you or give you a refund, send me a message and I will get back to you. I may need proof that you purchased it from me. I will only refund ones that I sold that I had soldered. If you bought one from console5 though i will lift the pin on it.
If you want me to lift the pin, send me the pcb(s) along with a piece of paper with a return address and you email. I will lift the pin and then send it back.
If you want a refund, send me the pcb(s) along with a piece of paper with your paypal email address. I will then send $20 to your paypal account per amp.
I am the one who noticed this :-". Maybe I should have contacted you directly but I wanted to make sure that I was correct in my findings. I didn't post here because its mostly dead :-({|=
Quote from: guest on 12/03/2018, 06:38 PMI am the one who noticed this :-". Maybe I should have contacted you directly but I wanted to make sure that I was correct in my findings.
thanks for pointing it out and figuring out what was causing it. Someone pointed me to your post. i did put the same post on all other forums i was selling these on.
someone had mentioned earlier this year (i think) that they thought it was running hot, but i didnt think too much of it at the time as they were the 1st to mention it. thinking back i should have looked into it at the time.
Quote from: mickcris on 11/29/2018, 11:55 AMYou can fix this by lifting that leg. Here is pic with an arrow pointing to the pin that needs lifted
(https://i.imgur.com/KUltBah.jpg)
I found it easiest to just de-solder that side of the IC, lift/break off the leg, then re solder that side down.
That's too bad, one little mistake on what looks like an otherwise professionally-designed/built board.