OMG! ZIRIA! ZIRIA!!! IT ACTUALLY HAPPENED!! 34 YEARS LATER!! The epic/legendary Tengai Makyou/Far East of Eden: Ziria JRPG has finally been localized! Supper the Subtitler struck again! Simply unstoppable, NOTHING can prevent him from TOTAL PCECD localization domination!!!! WHACHA GONNA DO BROTHER?!?!
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Messages - Keith Courage

#1
QuoteI've added an example/demo to show what I want exactly:
BestImageGalleryDemo.webp
That's from macross.fandom.com. So imagine the 20-year PCEFX history of 20,000+ images being displayed/filtered like that at the top of the forum, randomized order every time you refresh, and if you click on one it takes you to the thread/post, etc. It'd be a 20-year walk down memory lane for random OG veterans/visitors. That's what we can do to celebrate/preserve!

But yeah, first I need to finish disabling broken/lost images where there's no hope, and finish repairing the ones that are recoverable, mostly thanks to WayBack, or manual detective work like you saw in this example with expiring Sega-16 links. Melf lost his webmaster and that's part of why he's ready to say good-bye and go archive mode, but I can do my own IT from 25 years ago, so I don't have to pay anyone else, I just need hosting/domain costs, then time/motivation.

Here is a flyer/promo I got from the 92 Consumer electronics show in Chicago.
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#2
Don't forget about Lowell from Wings.

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#3
You are in luck. That resistor that is missing is actually just a jumper/filler fake resistor. Meaning you can just solder a wire to each connection. Resistor says 000 on it so that means no value. 

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#4
I'm not familiar with that PCB setup but here is a similar one using the same 7314 that I know works. Maybe you can compare the two and figure out what might need to be changed on yours to get it working.

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Also, are you making sure to use ceramic caps except for the larger 330uf ones? That could be your problem if you are using standard caps with polarity in place of the other smaller ones.

Oh, and how is your scart Port/Jack wired up?
#5
Sounds like bad traces around the 4558 op amp right next to the AV jack. There should be 3.8V going to these two pins on it. If there is not then there is either a bad trace or old cap goop underneath the op amp that needs to be cleaned out.  I like to remove the op amp, clean, then reinstall.
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Oh, I just had one more thought. Might be a bad trace for the ground on the op amp as well. The grounding pin (if looking at the photo I posted) is on the bottom row farthest to the right.
#6
before you consider changing the lens or making any lens adjustments, you should change some of the capacitors first. there are two specific rows of capacitors that are known to go bad  in the white PC engine CD drives. Here is a picture where I have circled the ones that normally go bad in red. Change them before doing anything else. If changing these caps doesn't fix the problem then move onto changing out the lens itself.

TGCDCap-Chart2.jpg
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#7
I don't think anyone sells any kits but here is what you need and how it is done.
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https://i.postimg.cc/GmTHFCkS/S-video-Mod.gif
https://postimg.cc/qN0JrWD8
#8
here is a screen shot. Seems to happen with my US cotton as well although the failed sectors are different. Just messes up at 99%.

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Maybe both of the CD drives I tested are wonky? I've been ripping some other games to my pc without  any errors so far. Maybe there is something wrong with my discs even though they look great.
#9
SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a complete gate of thunder 4 in 1 disc with manuals for sale. The gate of thunder manual is perfect. Both Bonk manuals just have some pressure spots where the CD case closes on them. Otherwise they are both in good condition.

The disc is in good shape as well with just some very minor scratches near the outer edge of the disc. They are very difficult to see unless you hold the disc at the correct angle under some light. Does not effect game play at all. It's difficult to get them to show up in pics but there are some included here where you can kind of see them.

The front of the case has a couple scratches on it.

Asking $68 shipped in the US.

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#10
Quote from: ccovell on 12/11/2017, 01:30 AM
Quote from: Keith Courage on 12/10/2017, 11:06 PMI wonder how they got around the legality of being able to include the CD ROM bios files?
You put it on your SD card and choose it from the menu.  I recommend watching that lengthy video that was linked to on the neogeo forum.
Well on the back of the box it says (Built-in System cards for CD-rom2, Super CD-rom2, and Arcade CD rom2). Well at least the ad of the box. Who knows what it will say on the real thing.

Built-in doesn't mean downloading the CD bios yourself. Maybe they just messed up on the ad.
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This picture also claims a Built in Arcade card.
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Sweet looking device nevertheless.
#11
Just thought I'd post a pic of my latest cleaned/re-whitened system to entice anyone else who may be interested. CD drive has new gearing as well as having other general maintenance done. Upgraded S-video port installed as well. This particular setup is already spoken for but I have more on hand. I'm about a week and a half backed up on getting more of these ready. I have some DUOs on hand as well.

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#12
I recently received this with some other Turbo Games I wanted but I already have this one. So here it is for sale.

Cosmetically the game itself looks good with just a couple minor scratches on it. The case is good other than the case label looks like it is missing a very small portion off of the top like it was stuck on there a little too high and someone then just cut the top off to compensate. The manual has a few wrinkles and creases but no tears. However some of the pages are yellowing.


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#13
Quote from: RxM on 10/08/2017, 04:52 PMHey MobiusStripTech,

I got your package.. Thank you!

The two pics you posted , the first one is showing the pins of the chip that needed to be lifted and they all
need to be grounded to same wire?

And what's the second pic for? 

Thanks
-RxM
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#17
original pic was down so here it is again.

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#18
Guess this needs to be updated since the original picture is now gone. So here it is again.

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#20
In anticipation I have made myself a custom 2 disc case for Xanadu II. This way my real copies of both 1 and 2 will have a 2nd CD spot for a translated CD-R once this amazing project is finished :)

LegendOfXanaduCase.jpg
#21
S-video is excellent for the price/amount of work needing to be done. Obviously component is a bit better but depending on the TV I can hardly notice the difference with most games. Definitely a huge jump up in quality over standard composite.

Even though I do component and RGB mods as well, S-video is my choice for CRT gaming since colors look more like what I was accustom to as a kid.

here is the schematic I made for it way back.
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Here is a pic of a pce with S-video installed.
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#22
You forgot one major difference.
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you can see more cleavage in the pce version because the text isn't blocking it.
#23
Does anyone know who used to run the pcenginefan.blogspot site or if it is now hosted elsewhere ?

I really liked the rear case inserts that used to be hosted on that site. I have them for most of my US games that did not come with cases. However, I am short a few. I am hoping that someone might have them saved on their computer or something. This is what they looked like:

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i.postimg.cc/Pxrcqt84/Somer-Assault-Back-1.png

I need the rear inserts for Shockman, Falcon, Samurai Ghost, and World Sports competition. Thanks for any help in advance.
#25
Hey guys, just looking for some input/suggestions on how to display and or store my collection. The reason I am asking is because recently I found that about 5-8% of my US game manuals have begun to get mold on them. Luckily it is just minimal spotting right now that are almost powdery in texture and I've been able to just wipe the manuals off with no ill effects.

Anyways, I've been keeping my games on a shelf. Much like this:
shelf.webp

Because of this my games barely get any air. They are packed tight on the shelf and some of these games haven't even been pulled off of the shelf for the past 2 years. So I assume this didn't help things.

Also, these are not kept in a basement but on the main floor of my house and yes I do have air conditioning that I use. 


So here are the options I am considering.

1. Get some shelves with a much more open design.
2. Space games out much more on current shelf
3. Get plastic jewel case protector sleeves for each case as to keep each one from contaminating one another if indeed the mold could grow.
4. take all the manuals out of my cases and store them in a ziplock bag.
5. buy some CD racks since they are naturally designed to keep cases spaced apart.
6. Try to find some plastic sleeves for the manuals to where I can still have the manuals fit in their cases.
7. Stick to a turbo everdrive and CDRs, then sell off my entire collection to help me get a nicer car. lol

Just curious if anyone else has had to deal with this issue and what solutions others have tried.
#26
Your pots look to be in the usual working positions. However just for the sake of trying it go ahead and turn the Black 102 pot all the way to the left(counter clockwise) and see if the CD drive works. If not then put it back to the position it was in to begin with. It rarely fixes the issue but worth a try before replacing more parts.

That symptom is usually a bad CD lens and or bad capacitors. Try changing the two small rows of caps that I circled in Red. Those are typically the caps that cause CD read issues. If that doesn't fix it you may need a replacement lens. In some rare cases it's actually a bad chip on the motherboard itself but 85% of the time it's the lens or caps.
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#27
It's the white potentiometer bottom right of this pic
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#28
every time I've come across a turbo Express where the brightness cannot be changed and the screen looks dim it turns out to be old cap corrosion in this area (circled in red). if there is indeed old capacitor leakage here, clean off the leakage with a toothbrush and then resolder the contacts. the majority of the time just using flux alone to reflow the solder over the contacts is good enough.1486736909890.png
https://postimg.cc/F7gNYBm8

also, just in case, using batteries that are almost dead will cause similar symptoms. Especially not being able to change the brightness.
#29
PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Obey!!!
10/31/2016, 10:34 PM
In the Halloween spirit Donald Trump says everyone must "obey" the pc engine.

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lost/found: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=1333331783358402
#30
Go here to get your component board. http://tg16pcemods.bigcartel.com/


S-video on the other hand would require you to install the few parts yourself. No board option.

Here is an s-video diagram I made a while back. IMG
#31
Nice!

ThumbsUpT2.jpg

Is that the CBT3383 chip?
#34
I'd like to see Badlands.

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And I second Magician Lord ACD. Favorite Neogeo game
#35
There is supposed to be a metal ring that holds the magnet up. The 3/holes you see are for the screws that hold said ring in place. I'll post some pics in a bit.

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Ring that holds magnet in place.
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#36
generally any of these 3 pots(circled in red) could be the culprit. So try them first. Just try one at a time.  Rarely ever do the other two need to be changed.

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#37
There is probably a bad trace or via hole somewhere. These two caps circled in Red are typically the ones that deal with CD audio. Check there first to make sure they are getting the correct voltage and that their grounds are good as well. I believe the 22uf gets 7.5V and the 47uf gets 5v.

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If those are both good then start checking for other bad traces closest to the 22UF cap near the Din port op amp. Circled in blue. Usually you can hold the board up to a light and see some via holes that are filled in with old cap goop. I like to fix these by using a cut off cap leg through them and solder on each side and bending it over to the corresponding pad where the connection was weak or lost.
#38
Sure, I don't see why I couldn't just re-wire the scart cable like this.
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However, most people I've dealt with use a Euro style connectors for their framemeister. Also, I could even make a cable that goes directly from the system to the framemeister. Meaning no scart junction needed in between.
#39
what's a cd-romrom?

You need a arcade card Pro for this one.
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You can use the cheaper arcade card DUO for this one.
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The arcade card pro will work in any setup but costs more. Meaning if you can get away with using a arcade card duo then get that to save some cash.
#40
Quote from: SplatterTrigger on 02/27/2016, 07:41 AMJJ+West-TurboGrafx-16.jpg
This is hilarious.

someone needs to make some sprites of his face and paste it into the game for some Everdrive fun.
#41
I really don't see anything wrong with him mentioning it. I'm not a fan of his but it's kinda cool that he remembers the system from when he was a kid I suppose.

The real name of his next album.
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#42
Quote from: rogecm on 02/26/2016, 07:02 AMI need the cd gear for pc engine duo
gamedoctorhk.com/index.php?products_id=2085
Gear for PC-Engine DUO / DUO-R / DUO-RX CD console - A

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#43
Well I can hear a drastic change if I try the cable without the cap and then hold it on there for testing. Buzzing won't go away completely but you should hear a small difference. Make sure to put the positive end on the 5V pin. Not the lower voltage end that is after the resister. I always put it here. 8+ and 4 -

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#44
After many more systems and testing the 4.7uf fix by adding two of them to the necessary cap spots, it has worked on at least 95% of the systems I have applied it to. This guide by Tim should really be stickied as the definitive way to remove jail bars. Works better than anything I've ever done in the past.

So besides the initial guide http://etim.net.au/av-driver/pcebars/

one should also add the pics that mckcris posted for the core grafx and DUO-R:

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#45
I charge $28 plus the cost of the return shipping(Probably $6-$8). Includes the AV cable as well. This is for Composite video with stereo outs.

I just did one of these for someone else. Here are some pics of a finished product.

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#46
It would very time consuming to wire up a snes pad for the pc engine. If you want to buy all these parts and solder it all together then yes it would work. You could forgo the chip that deals with rapid fire function to make things a little easier but it would still be a pain in the ass and take quite a chunk of time to complete.

Avenue_Pad_6_Schematic.png

There is however an easier way to mod a original NES pad but that wouldn't help you for street fighter II since it doesn't have 6 buttons.

Your best option would be to just buy a 6 button controller.
#47
Quote from: guest on 01/31/2016, 01:50 PMDidn't do anything wrong. Followed the guide to the letter. I am not questioning the ability of Tim as I assume he is a professional electrical engineer and certainly more knowledgeable and capable with electronics than I am. 
The consoles are RGB modified using THS7314 ICs and the output is via shielded scart cables straight to a TV (I'm in Europe).
Give this a try.
 I just did this extra capacitor mod for a JP PC Engine DUO. It works great. No jail bars whatsoever now. Just installed the one larger cap in the picture. Website did not say the value of the capacitor but from the length/width of it I'm guessing that it's a 820UF or 1000UF cap. I haven't seen many lower value caps that are that tall and skinny.

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Adding this 1000UF cap is the only thing I changed. Did not have to add the two 22uf caps nor did I have to do anything extra with grounding.

Also, did you try using pure sync instead of composite video for sync?
#48
Quote from: BigusSchmuck on 01/27/2016, 06:54 PM
Quote from: guest on 01/27/2016, 08:09 AMThe $100 asking price makes that a terrible listing.
Beyond terrible. 100 pesos maybe. $100 no. Better off donating it to Keith Courage as his plaything :)
I would make a good working unit out of that. I have parts of DUO cases lying around.
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#49
If you are installing panel mounted AV jacks like these
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then just use a cheap set of general purpose drill bits. They will work just fine. I can't remember what size is needed but I just go up one size at a time until I find which one is large enough.
#50
These cables are indeed how mickcris describes them. I ordered from the amazon link and got a bunch of 6ft cables.

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5v pin problem solved ;) Only took me 1 minute if that. Just bend it down once and back up. Snaps right off.