Sega Lord X reviews the Street Fighter II Champion Edition PC Engine port.
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Messages - Keith Courage

#1
QuoteI've added an example/demo to show what I want exactly:
BestImageGalleryDemo.webp
That's from macross.fandom.com. So imagine the 20-year PCEFX history of 20,000+ images being displayed/filtered like that at the top of the forum, randomized order every time you refresh, and if you click on one it takes you to the thread/post, etc. It'd be a 20-year walk down memory lane for random OG veterans/visitors. That's what we can do to celebrate/preserve!

But yeah, first I need to finish disabling broken/lost images where there's no hope, and finish repairing the ones that are recoverable, mostly thanks to WayBack, or manual detective work like you saw in this example with expiring Sega-16 links. Melf lost his webmaster and that's part of why he's ready to say good-bye and go archive mode, but I can do my own IT from 25 years ago, so I don't have to pay anyone else, I just need hosting/domain costs, then time/motivation.

Here is a flyer/promo I got from the 92 Consumer electronics show in Chicago.
IMG
#2
Something else I just thought of after looking at your first pic. If you are testing a CD with the case lid off, you need to take the magnet out of the CD lid and put it on your disc so it doesn't slip when the drive spins up.
#3
The security bit is only needed to open up the console. Otherwise there is nothing inside a duo that requires one.
#4
Don't bother with the entire lens assembly. They aren't an exact drop in replacement as the rubber mounts are different and the White/black plastic cover doesn't fit on them correctly.

The only reason to order a full assembly would be if you needed any replacement motors or gear.

Just get one of the $20 ones. I've tried some of the more expensive options and they don't appear to have any difference in quality.
#5
"Please set disc" can be caused by a lot of different things. A bad lens, bad lens cable, poorly adjusted potentiometers, a bad potentiometer, a stuck gear, a weak lens motor, a bad trace, bad/shorted via hole connection, faulty chip on the board, etc.....

So if your positive the Lens is fine and the lens adjustment potentiometers are fine, then I would start by looking at the Via hole connections just to the right of the CD loading light. The 47UF caps typically leak there and can short the vias.
#6
I actively do repairs and mods for these systems. You can send my way if you don't want to fix yourself.

An HOP-M3 lens is what you'll need. Unfortunately it can be hit and miss with replacements found online. Fortunately all sellers guarantee the lenses sold. So if you get a bad one in the mail, they will just send you another one. I can't necessaily recommend one seller over another.

I typically order off of Aliexpress but there are many options on ebay as well.
#7
Don't bother with a Recap! DUO-R and RX systems never need it. The only Capacitors that are sometimes known to fail are the 2 1000UF capacitors right by the 7805 voltage regulators(big heat sinks).

It's the Black DUO systems that get faulty capacitors.

The issue with your DUO is probabaly a weak/bad lens. Lots of times you can just adjust the V102 potentiometer to get it reading again but sometimes replacement is needed.

Also, check to make sure all wires to the lens are good. Lots of times the Red or white wires can short out from movement overtime.
#8
Something to try which might sound weird, but I come across maybe 1 duo a year with an issue where it has to be used for 3-4 minutes before a disc will start working sometimes on a cold start. I would assume this is caused by a bad trace or connection on the board but I haven't been able to figure out where.

Anyways, just for the sake of trying it, Just hit run to start up a CD over and over again for about 5 minutes and see if the DUO magically starts reading discs again.
#9
Whoah, that sounds really weird. I've heard scratchy audio from a worn out lens before but this sound isn't the same.

Have you tried making any lens adjustments?
#10
Sounds like a bad motor. Have you tried spinning the motor using your finger? Sometimes you can do this to get the motor working again, at least temporarily.

I have a bunch of extra motors from full CD lens assemblies I order for parts. For just the motor, how about $10 shipped in the US?
#11
Could be a bad 6270 or 6280 which would require a system to be used for parts. The only bummer is lots of times if a system is being sold for parts, one of those two chips is dead. So it's a crap shoot finding exactly what you need from a broken/parts console.

Try and find a broken PCE or turbografx console that boots with glitchy/blocky looking graphics as this is usually caused by bad ram and not one of the HU chips.
#12
Sorry, I'm sure there are certain voltages that would give it away if the 6280 is no good but unfortunately I don't know what they are.

Anytime I've had a system with a solid white screen and all the other things check okay that I mentioned, then 98% chance it's a dead HU6280. So I just change it out.

What stinks is finding a replacement as these chips can only be found in other consoles.
Double check the traces under the board for the Hucard slot pins. If all traces test good to the 6280 chip, then the chip is probably bad.

Have you tried reflowing solder for the 6280 or 6270? Sometimes bad traces exist in between both of those chips causing the same issue.

Heating up/reflowing solder on the pins doesn't always permanently fix a bad trace but when heated up, a trace might start working again temporarily.

I will sometimes heat up each pin(for the HU chips) one at a time and then power on the console to see if anything changes. If does and the system starts working, you know which trace to run a wire to repair.

More info here
https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=21837.0

#13
Unfortunately the problem you are describing(white screen) isn't usually caused by bad capacitors.

This can be caused by many different things. A bad 7805 voltage regulator, Bad traces or connections on the board(usually caused by corrosion under the hucard slot), a bad HU6280 CPU, or in some rare cases a shorted capacitor but this isn't usually the case.

Start looking for corroded traces or via hole connections under the card slot. Also check that all the traces for the card slot pins are good.

#14
That's probably bad ram. Not the actual save ram. This is the ram that's used to load data into in order for games to run. This is why none of your CD games will boot.

If the problem was just the actual save memory, then games would still load and run fine. You just wouldn't be able to save anything successfully.

There are two identical ram chips on the small removal board. One of the two chips is probably bad. Unfortunately, depending on the chips that are in there, some of these can only be sourced from other ifu docking stations.

So depending on the cost for buying another already working correctly docking station, it might make it pointless cost wise to buy another one to use for parts.

There are different revisions of the ifu docking station. So not all of them have the exact same upper board and same RAM chips on it. Meaning, not all of them are interchangeable.

This problem is most definitely not bad capacitors. So it would be a waste of time and money to change the capacitors out thinking it would fix the problem.
#15
As far as Hu cards not working, I've seen a few DUO-Rs where the solder joints for the Card slot go bad on the board. So it might just need to have all the pins for the card slot re-soldered. The 2nd possibility could be a Dirty card slot (fix by putting rubbing alcohol on a hu cards pins) or that one or more of the pins of the slot are actually bent/damaged. Usually these pins can be bent back into position again.

Most likely there isn't anything super major broken with the console since CD games load up just fine.

While you have the console open, you should also put new solder on the Power, AV, and Controllers ports. The solder for the pins on those all fail inside R and RX consoles as well.

R and RX consoles do not suffer from bad caps. Only the Black DUO systems have the bad cap problem.

If at any point you decide that you don't want to mess with the repair yourself just let me know and I can help out.
#16
Don't forget about Lowell from Wings.

TomChurchLowellWings.jpg
#17
I've come to the same conclusion. RGB output from the IFU always has some slight form of video interference and never looks quite as good as if it were installed in the system itself. I think it has to do with various parts of the CD system causing the interference. I've tried running wires to many different locations within an IFU with the same results.

This is why I recommend having the RGB amp installed inside the pc engine system itself instead. I then make a custom scart cable with added RCA plugs so they can be hooked up the the Audio out of the IFU for CD audio.

Another advantage of doing it this way is if the IFU dock were to ever die, one could just get another without having to have the RGB mod installed again.
#18
That resistor only needs to be changed if it is broken. You would know if it is broken. Sounds like a 56K modem coming out of your speakers.

It is completely normal to hear some sound coming out of the speakers when loading. There is no fix to make it go away.
#19
I'd be happy to work on your CD drive for you if you haven't found someone already. Just send me a PM
#20
How about just wiring in an entire Turbo Everdrive? Pretty sure Turbokon did that one once.
#21
I'm currently taking on these repairs. Feel free to send me a PM.
#22
Sorry just saw this. Yes, a good number of systems here.
#23
General Gaming / Re: Ys IX is coming...
12/21/2018, 11:50 PM
This new game must be all about Dogi's crazy addiction of breaking people out of Jails.
#24
No resistor goes there. It's supposed to be bare.
#25
Of course it's worth trying to fix first. Your lens might even just be stuck. Those gears can jam up from time to time. Especially if dropped.
#26
Probably just lens adjustment+re-greasing of the lens rails needed. I'd try just cleaning and re-greasing the lens rails first. I rarely come across a DUO-R or RX that needs new caps.
#27
I'm not a big fan of 3d gaming so I primarly use my 360 for only 2d shooters and racing games. The 360 has many shooters that other consoles never got.
#28
It's normal for q603 to fluctuate a Little. Starts around 0.11v here then drops to about 0.06 steady.

Q604 seems be steady around 0.20
#29
Try the hu6280 chip. If ram and card slot cable are good then the 6280 chip is usually the problem.
#30
Yes, definitely caps.
#31
This dudes videos are great! Just because of the insane amount of love he has for the system. I pretty much enjoy watching any vid made by someone who is just super enthusiastic about the Turbo. Doesn't matter if it's collection related or not.
#32
I just saw one sell on ebay for $270 over this past weekend. Minus the slip cover.
#33
I've had the JP version of Cotton for years and I had no idea there was an option to change the text. I wonder what other JP CD games have this option? I think JB Harold and Carmen Sandiego do. Are there any others?
#34
The white pc engine CD drives are way more prone to it than the Black Turbo Grafx CD drives. However there were two types of motherboards for the pce CD drives. One board was prone to it and the other was not. It's easy to tell which is which because the board that does not typically need caps is a light green/yellowish green color where as the board that usually needs caps is the darker green pc engine CD board. The Four 4.7UF caps mentioned all leak and there is also a row in the middle that typically go bad that deal with lens functions. The caps are all in a row 100UF, 22UF, 4.7UF, and 1UF.

I suppose you could just replace all of the caps but I've found sometimes that is not best since the solder points on some of these boards are very week and can be pulled off of the board when trying to change the caps. I've receive many boards like this from people not knowing what they were doing. Makes it real fun trying to re trace/work the connections.
#35
It is simple. There are 8 pins underneath the controller port and 3 larger ground support points. Simply use a soldering iron and add/flow a little solder to each pin.
#36
PC-FX Discussion / Re: Forum phone access
10/10/2018, 07:23 PM
Thanks
#37
PC-FX Discussion / Re: Forum phone access
10/10/2018, 04:53 PM
No, I wasn't using Tapatalk. I simply had a bookmark save that went directly to the Forum that wouldn't work anymore for whatever reason. I ended up having to start from the first page of pcenginefx and then click on forums in order to access them via my phone. Using Google Chrome. Not a big deal because it's working now.
#38
PC-FX Discussion / Re: Forum phone access
10/10/2018, 11:43 AM
Nevermind, I figured it out. For whatever reason I had to start from the first page of the website and then click on forums instead of using my bookmark as usual.
#39
PC-FX Discussion / Forum phone access
10/10/2018, 10:28 AM
Anyone else having trouble accessing the forums via their phone lately? I haven't been able to use my phone to get to them for the past week.
#40
You are in luck. That resistor that is missing is actually just a jumper/filler fake resistor. Meaning you can just solder a wire to each connection. Resistor says 000 on it so that means no value. 

IMG
#41
I used to take repairs for them by mail but not anymore. This is because I'd say 75% of any model 1 I had mailed to me in the past had plastic pieces broken on the inside due to shipping. The inside of those things are so fragile. Also the weights that go on the ribbon cables would flop around on the inside and cause havoc as well. In each case the package looked just fine and did not appear to have been mishandled in any way. Took me many hours of gluing and modifying things to make work again. I suppose if someone was willing to use a large enough box that can fit at least 4 or more wraps of large bubble wrap around the drive for shipment, then I'd be willing to work on one again.
#42
Don't get a CDX. They break and cost more to have someone fix over a model 1. With that being said, a model 2 is the most reliable and probably the best way to go. However if you need a model 1 or CDX then get a Model 1.

Also, a common problem with CDX systems is the lens motors die and no one has a source for new replacements. Seriously, there is no where to buy the part. So if this part goes bad you can't get it fixed without getting another broken CDX which will most likely also have a bad lens motor. Much like how FM towns systems have no source for replacement lenses.

Sega model 1 and 2 drives still have parts available for the lens, motors, gears and what not.
#43
I had this problem with a few real discs in one of my computers. I even tried a few different drives and that didn't fix it either. So I tried out another PC I have here and those problem discs went through all the way to the end no problem. I even took my drive out of the computer that originally gave the errors and put it in my other PC to test and it went through just fine again. Only had this issue with maybe 3 or 4 of my game discs when I went though my entire collection.

So I think it's some odd issue with one of my computers. Not necessarily the CD Drive I was using for the ripping.
#44
 these CD drives have no skip protection. So it's completely normal  For the audio to cut out if you were to accidentally tap the system in any way.  adjusting the lens in will not improve this.

 Now if the audio seems to just drop on its own without any vibration whatsoever, then some adjustment might need to be done or possibly just a simple cleaning and regreasing of the lens rails.
#45
Yeah, those black traces can go bad. Go ahead and try tapping a wire for button 1 to see if it gets it going again. Hopefully that works. Sometimes in a worst case scenario the contact for the pad on the board itself needs to be repaired in which case conductive copper tape can be used to make new connections.
#46
I'm not familiar with that PCB setup but here is a similar one using the same 7314 that I know works. Maybe you can compare the two and figure out what might need to be changed on yours to get it working.

IMG
IMG

Also, are you making sure to use ceramic caps except for the larger 330uf ones? That could be your problem if you are using standard caps with polarity in place of the other smaller ones.

Oh, and how is your scart Port/Jack wired up?
#47
Is your framemeister cable Euro scar or JP21?
#48
This can be the sign of bad traces/shorted out vias near capacitors somewhere in the CD drive function area of the board. I would start by holding the board up to a light and see if you can see through all the Vias for capacitors found below where the CD drive sits. IF there is black gunk in there you might need to repair using a wire or spare cap contact lead.

If that isn't the problem then I'd try another CD lens if you have one.

If that doesn't work then unfortunately this symptom can also be the sign of a bad chip on the board. So you might need to send this to thesteve for chip replacement.
#49
How well does it read audio discs? Does it seem to have trouble when skipping from track to track?
#50
Hmm well I can't think of what could have happened during the cap change that could have made things worse other then a connection not being good somewhere.

I'd start by turning the V102 pot slightly to the left and see what happens. I tune all my lenses by ear so I can't give you any values to get fore the lens adjustments unfortunately. I do this because I find that not all lenses work good with the same settings as others.