Version 3 of the region mod chip is now available! This new chip does not require that you run wires to each hucard slot pin. It fits directly on the pins for easy slim installation. Installation time is around 15 minutes (compared to previous models which could easily take an hour or more)
Pricing is $18 for the mod chip and $3 for postage
Switchless confirmed working. Available soon!
Contact Turbokon for more information.
http://www.tg16pcemods.com
(?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=7404&image)
OG: wayback://93e39fe175e1bc99a4e8a5b730232da0.jpg (https://web.archive.org/web/20190414234831im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/93e39fe175e1bc99a4e8a5b730232da0.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183458im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/a7f33a34ad0838f58a72daf65049e86b.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183458im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/73213fbdd48769987f7e85f238f1bd54.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183453im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/374320f557b51d201bab301a0fea06d7.jpg)
ARCHIVE -- Old information for the 1st and 2nd version region mod chips.
Version 2 of the region mod boards are now available and can be purchased from Turbokon directly via his website: http://www.tg16pcemods.com/ (http://www.tg16pcemods.com/)
Region Mod Chip $16 + $2.50 shipping to US
Switchless Control Board $4 extra
Any questions, feel free to PM either myself or Turbokon.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/tg16mods%20website/8385A54F-A0DA-4152-BEDE-5B751A4E698C.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/tg16mods%20website/4414C034-E7BB-4958-A83B-33173B26FF34.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/tg16mods%20website/82C1A995-BD64-40DA-A012-A42992C24CA5.jpg)
I wrote up an installation manual that can be downloaded here (~15mb) http://www.mediafire.com/?ad5obr3lls4usm3 (http://www.mediafire.com/?ad5obr3lls4usm3)
As some of you know, thesteve and I have been working on making up some nice new region mod chips for these consoles. Well the boards and parts have all arrived, and I have started to assemble chips! I've tested these in a US Turbo Duo and a US Turbo Express. They work perfect!
These chips will work with a SPDT slide switch just like the other IC based region mods. These require that you cut 8 of the connections going to the hucard slot and run wires to them. If you don't feel comfortable soldering very small connections, you should probably have this done by someone experienced.
Optionally, a second control chip board can be used to run the mod 'switchless'. By 'switchless' we mean there will be no switch mounted externally on the device. This was designed for the portable systems so one doesn't have to cut up their Express or GT (or maybe even LT :shock:) to perform a region switch. In this setup, the original region is default and the second region is selected by holding the select button while powering the unit on. NOTE: This doesnt not work on console systems! It still requires a button press on boot which cannot be done on consoles like it can on portables!
The pricing on these chips will be as follows:
Region Mod Chip $18 shipped
Switchless Control Board $4 extra
If you need a switch or wires with your chip, let me know!
I wrote up an installation manual that can be downloaded here (~15mb) http://www.mediafire.com/?ad5obr3lls4usm3 (http://www.mediafire.com/?ad5obr3lls4usm3)
Please send me a PM if you are interested!
Dimensions on the chips are 0.70" x 0.850" by 0.15" for the main chip, and 0.70" x 0.65" x 0.15" for the switchless control chip.
And now some pictures!
/RegionModChip.jpg
Installed in a Turbo Duo:
/ModChipInstalled.jpg
Installed in a Turbo Express:
/Repair/5.jpg
/6.jpg
Looking GREAT man. Def have use(s) for these. Any news on the TE LCD swap? ;)
Quote from: nectarsis on 07/23/2011, 10:33 PMLooking GREAT man. Def have use(s) for these. Any news on the TE LCD swap? ;)
Soon! Soon!!! :P Though we'll probably do RGB amps next, and then probably RGB to component converters. Thesteve might tackle the LCD swap tho!
i don't expect i will get the chance to design the swap (time)
i am always happy to assist tho
Very nice! If I didn't have my LA setup for all my PCE/TG16 needs, then I'd definitely need to get one of these.
If I ever get a cheap second TG16 unit though, I'll have to get it over to you for some modding.
If you make RGB amps with that same level of quality, I will definitely be buying a few. Which design are you going to use?
Chris
thats the plan.
he was testing an auto level amp using 2 small chips in the LA and it worked well
Looks great! Now I just need to figure out what system(s) I want to mod. :-k
Quote from: CGQuarterly on 07/24/2011, 12:39 AMIf you make RGB amps with that same level of quality, I will definitely be buying a few. Which design are you going to use?
Chris
I had planned on using this design:
(?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=7406&image)
OG: av:n64rgb.png (https://web.archive.org/web/20120206072817im_/http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=av:n64rgb.png)
I made a homemade one a few weeks ago and it worked absolutely fabulous on my Laseractive...
If we make these though, I wont use nearly as large of components. We'll probably go surface mount on everything to make it as small as possible!
/RGBAmp.jpg
Looking good BlueBMW and thesteve.
Quote from: BlueBMW on 07/24/2011, 11:17 AMQuote from: CGQuarterly on 07/24/2011, 12:39 AMIf you make RGB amps with that same level of quality, I will definitely be buying a few. Which design are you going to use?
Chris
I had planned on using this design:
I made a homemade one a few weeks ago and it worked absoulely fabulous on my Laseractive...
If we make these though, I wont use nearly as large of components. We'll probably go surface mount on everything to make it as small as possible!
Awesome. That's the amp design that I built for my N64, and I like it as well.
Chris
the thread needed a bump so.......BUMP
Quote from: BlueBMW on 07/24/2011, 11:17 AM(?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=7406&image)
No idea what these are, but awesomesauce!
thats the needed circuit for RGB
guide updated
I just successfully installed my first 'Obey' mod chip in my Turbo Grafx. The guide was easy to follow and made the installation trouble free. A bit nerve racking cutting hucard slot pins but overall a fun and rewarding experience.
The best part of the whole process is doing the end test and seeing a PC Engine game load up for the first time :dance:....woohoo, success!
Thanks guys for creating such a great product. Looking forward to the RGB amps as well.
Now that I had a warm up, on to attempting the switchless region mod on my Turbo Express.
just a 2 notes on the express.
1: solder bridge JP1 to enable mode latch.
2: the switch board install can be tested before installing the control board by connecting the control wire to +5 for original region, and Ground for swap.
corrected info
i just installed a switchless in an express.
i chose to do it differently
(?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=769&image)
Just finished modding my Turbo Express with the switch-less region mod and it's great!
thesteve...Thanks for posting your install pics and for the tips. They helped me a great deal. I first followed the guide for the switch-less mod install and when I finished, I had major issues with PCE games freezing and glitching. I then used some slightly thicker gauge wire and re-routed the ground and power wires like the pictures and now it works perfectly.
Thanks again for creating/offering these awesome mod chips. :D
that's interesting, that it solved the issues for you.
the wire routing shouldn't have changed anything, however if you were having wire failures (broken/ came loose ect), then using different wire would solve it.
just as a note I am using #26 wire, and it fits the holes perfect.
Are these still available? I PM'd earlier, but I have a feeling it didn't go through (new to this forum's layout, so I can't really tell). I'd like to purchase one, if they are. Thanks!
we still got em
It's quite possible that my issue could have been caused by a damaged/broken wire. All connections were double checked and were secure.
I was thinking the glitching and freezing when booting a non-native (PCE) hucard was caused by the switch board not getting consistent power through longer and thin wire....possibly? In any case, the issue was fix after changing and re-routing the wires.
Any updates on the RGB amps?
I know the very small 30 gauge wire can easily get damaged even just by handling / bending it a few times. Going with larger wire (26 gauge) may be a better bet. A weak wire could certainly cause glitching.
If anyone else has had installation issues, please let me know!
As far as RGB amps, they're still a little ways off. I'll be working on the design for them this weekend some more. :D
I just installed a BlueBMW mod chip. Buy this mans chips!
(https://i.postimg.cc/85tv4ptX/P9050001.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzJqdgZn/P9050014.jpg)
This isn't supposed to happen :-s
(https://i.postimg.cc/85tPFwbx/P9050004.jpg)
Who needs ugly RCA mods, when they can have an RCA attachment that's bigger than the G.D. system. :dance:
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Qcy4xbz/P9050017.jpg) (https://i.postimg.cc/qR1LqV6n/P9050016.jpg)
edojapan's TG16 is the first US system I've ever heard of needing the pin 29 grounded on in order for the region switch to work. I'll be adding a note to the install guide. Maybe some of the very late (or very early) TG16s were a little different as far as region lockout goes.
Congrats on the great install edojapan!
PCE DUO install
(?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=779&image) (?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=781&image)
A few shots of my installed chip and switch. I gave up shrinking the tubing on the wires after I kept having them come free in the process; I just slid it on there, but they're all wedged together so well that there's no fear of exposure or shorts. Darn 30 gauge wire can be touchy sometimes. The blue 26g wires connected to the switch in the first shot were just there for a quick and dirty test. I was going to replace them all with the smaller wire but the last few seemed to fit fine without bulking things up too much inside.
I'll do better with the next one. Many thanks to BlueBMW for the supplies and install tips! Wonderful service and very easy to install.
killedaway .com/images/projects/regionmod03.jpg
/regionmod00.jpg
/regionmod01.jpg
/regionmod02.jpg
Quote from: nectarsis on 07/23/2011, 10:33 PMLooking GREAT man. Def have use(s) for these. Any news on the TE LCD swap? ;)
Im tackling it now
Here's my efforts on my PCE GT: -
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183528im_/https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OYG21k1o5-A/Tn4ZZmfzC-I/AAAAAAAAB4I/YIUqIp2Pe9o/s1280/DSC_0174.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183530im_/https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gBuRUMwKOkY/Tn4ZauWivJI/AAAAAAAAB4M/W2tftL38oZI/s1280/DSC_0175.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183525im_/https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9h-5iuIGqdY/Tn4ZdIgHSNI/AAAAAAAAB4U/2mSMZIxrHHo/s1280/DSC_0177.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183531im_/https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pCPabq5dj7k/Tn4ZiRxTfkI/AAAAAAAAB4c/Gds6Pu2ynE4/s1280/DSC_0179.jpg)
It all went together nicely, but I haven't got a US game to test properly yet. The Regular Japanese games work fine. I'll keep an eye on its function though, i'm worried i've used too thin a wire for power and GND after reading csgx1's findings. I'll post here if I do have problems to let everyone know.
pin29
Yep I did that as well, sorry forgot to post the pic: -
(?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=7408&image)
:)
for troubleshooting take the (B) wire off your switchless board and solder it to the shield.
it should boot US games than.
bump
still available
Bump! Still have 100+ of these :lol:
By the way, I'd like to point out that when the instructions say use 26 gauge wire, don't use 24 just because that's all Radio Shack had. I had to get Beemer to fix mine... I messed up a trace probably because the 24g is hard to work with in that tiny area.
I'm going to keep an eye out for a cheap Core Grafx or white PCE so I can try it again sometime.
PMed you two about some mods and a hopefully future raffle item.
bought a couple of these, cant wait to install them!
I have used some crazy thin wire in the past without any trouble at all. Then again those were all on 8pdt region mods and not ones that require any 5V power to be tapped. I can't remember what gauge it was exactly but I sometimes use old IDE cables for PCs that only have one strand of wire in each instead of multiple ones. It is very thin and I actually prefer this cause then it is easier to solder the wire straight through the holes on the motherboard instead of trying to solder the wire to a bent metal pin.
Well, I can confidently say my GT works flawlessly with the thin power wires. The only problem I have is when my Eneloop batts start to run down if I don't turn off the system before the screen goes completely white then it seems to crash and the gfx corrupt. But thats a known issue with the mod installed. So once I notice the screen starting to brighten, I switch off...... (Off topic, but MAN those eneloops last nearly TWICE as long as regular Alkalines!!!!)
congrats phips
keith the reason the #30 wire was an issue, is it breaks easily, and doesnt solder as well as #26 multistrand
Oh okay, I thought the problem was that it wasn't large enough of a gauge for the current to flow. I gotcha now ](*,)
sorry new here try to do this myself too hard on the tg16 it was ez for me but on an pc enigne #^#@( It. so any one on here who can put one in for me whould be great.
thanks,
fire1000
Bump for the win! :D
fire, did anyone get back to you on installing a mod chip?
Quote from: BlueBMW on 12/06/2011, 09:09 PMBump for the win! :D
fire, did anyone get back to you on installing a mod chip?
no my pc engine Is wack I tred to do an mod that used the two chips. but all the jupers come off the main to the card pcb. so now its two pcbs that need all the wiers solder back! and I have no time to do so. if you do any work let me know what you charge to fix it.
thanks,
frie1000
Bump!
Fire, give thesteve a shout.
I had a hard time with my Duo R cause I'm a soldering n00b but I sent it off to TheSteve along with my GT and he fixed em up right for me. They work great and man, the GT is just so cool with the switchless region mod, just hold down select when you turn it on for the other region and it's like magic!
I have a pretty random mix up of US and JP hu cards so it's totally rad to be able to just use them on my system without hassling with the region switch boards.
Thanks Steve and BMW for all the hard work put into making these!
PM sent
bump
It's amazing how you guys are able to create this type of stuff!!!
Just purely freakin brilliant!!!
I have to agree, if i was handy with the iron i would giv it a shot but sadly im not and have way to much on my plate with fixing up 2 houses.
Ill gladly ship my Duo to you to get a complete overhaul. just let me know when lol
I'm sending my gt out to get region modded, to all that are on the fence, do it!! Seriously, the new screen (i already had that done) makes a huge difference, and a region mod is just icing on the cake. Steve has done work for me and a friend of mine and all is top quality. The tantulum caps in my friends Japanese turbo duo are a thing of beauty.
Quote from: HercTNT on 02/10/2012, 11:39 PMI'm sending my gt out to get region modded, to all that are on the fence, do it!! Seriously, the new screen (i already had that done) makes a huge difference, and a region mod is just icing on the cake. Steve has done work for me and a friend of mine and all is top quality. The tantulum caps in my friends Japanese turbo duo are a thing of beauty.
man, it just gotta be amazing having that on road trips or camping trips.
one day i wish i had a TE or GT...oh well...i will wait
The Express/gt had an active matrix lcd that was far superior to any other console at the time. It was hard to read text in some games though and the screens a tad small. Some people dont like the idea of modding an original system, but once you see the new screen you wont go back. I dont care if the system is original, i just wanna play it as best as possible. Steves work improves the experience a ton. I like to play alien crush alot on the new screen.
Quote from: HercTNT on 02/10/2012, 11:46 PMThe Express/gt had an active matrix lcd that was far superior to any other console at the time. It was hard to read text in some games though and the screens a tad small. Some people dont like the idea of modding an original system, but once you see the new screen you wont go back. I dont care if the system is original, i just wanna play it as best as possible. Steves work improves the experience a ton. I like to play alien crush alot on the new screen.
Quoted for truth.
bump
Hi
Am interested in buying a region mod chip for a turbo express , are these still available shipped to the UK
Thanks
Dave
im sure we still have more
PM BlueBMW for them
Yep, we've got tons left :D Shoot me a pm!
These are still available. BUMP :D
Quote from: BlueBMW on 05/19/2012, 10:18 AMThese are still available. BUMP :D
sell me one!
Quote from: annuvin on 06/23/2012, 02:16 PMQuote from: BlueBMW on 05/19/2012, 10:18 AMThese are still available. BUMP :D
sell me one!
Did you already PM me about one? If not, shoot me a pm!
pm sent.
I just got mine installed today, works great!
do these work ok with the Neo Flash cart for Turbo Express?
mine works fine with it
Dunno about the Turbo Express, but installing the chip actually fixed Neo Flash compatibility with my TG16 for some odd reason.
Did you guys ever build these to sell? I have built some but don't have the time as of late to build new ones.
Quote from: BlueBMW on 07/24/2011, 11:17 AMQuote from: CGQuarterly on 07/24/2011, 12:39 AMIf you make RGB amps with that same level of quality, I will definitely be buying a few. Which design are you going to use?
Chris
I had planned on using this design:
(https://web.archive.org/web/20120206072817im_/http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=av:n64rgb.png)
I made a homemade one a few weeks ago and it worked absoulely fabulous on my Laseractive...
If we make these though, I wont use nearly as large of components. We'll probably go surface mount on everything to make it as small as possible!
/RGBAmp.jpg
Quote from: Duo_R on 07/01/2012, 01:46 AMDid you guys ever build these to sell? I have built some but don't have the time as of late to build new ones.
Not quite, the project stalled out when I got busy working on x68000s lol. I have a nearly complete PCB design, but there were a few changes I'd still like to make to it:
/RGB%20Test/NewRGBamp3.jpg
Bump, plenty still available.
Installed one of these chips into a CoreGrafx and works fantastically.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214833im_/https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8g4B1gHQwac/UFQE_P6a7qI/AAAAAAAABz4/QVoB6STn1Ts/s912/IMG_0674%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214833im_/https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nQVE9i0OFIo/UFQE_Hd380I/AAAAAAAABz8/5Zw4PFj3qDU/s720/IMG_0675%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214832im_/https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kQUyAl7z0Xo/UFQE_Lni6OI/AAAAAAAABz0/u4tCB1-aV98/s912/IMG_0676%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG)
Pretty easy install. I used a slider style switch instead of a rocker.
pm sent
Do you still sell the region mod chip that you advertised can i gert an address to send payment for one?
Hi, I am not familiar with how to mod this stuff on my own. I would like to put a switch on in my PC Engine Duo to play TG16 games, but I don't want to mess anything up. Would anybody be willing to do this mod for me? I would be more than willing to pay for your time.
Thanks!
These are still available. Just got parts in for more switchless chips.
Nice, I was wondering if these were still availible. Been meaning to region mod my spare TG16.
PM coming your way...
I need to remember to bump the thread every now and then. It gets buried five or six pages back and then people dont see it.
This thread really should be one those frozen threads at the top. Y'all call it a sticky right? :). Well, at least that is IF you and Steve plan to keep producing these chips.
Thinking about getting one of the region mod boards. I'm also very interested in the RGB amp you were working on, has any progress been made? I'm good for one if you get a few made.
Quote from: chipperkwah on 03/11/2013, 07:32 PMThinking about getting one of the region mod boards. I'm also very interested in the RGB amp you were working on, has any progress been made? I'm good for one if you get a few made.
We havent yet. There were several design changes along the way and we havent finalized what we want to do exactly.
As soon as they're done I'll take one of those and a region board as well. How much do you charge to install a region board and the rgb board w/din? I have a duo r.
I'm also interested in your RGB amp board, please make sure to let us know when these are ready, thanks!
I need one of these. PM sent.
pm sent =)
BlueBMW, I'm wondering if there have been any new developments with the RGB amp. Just curious.
Also interested on the RGB Amp, please let us know BlueBMW!
Yeah Beamer! RGB! RGB!
Rgb!! :)
Let me see what I can do... ;)
Blue, I received a security bit from turbokon yesterday so I cracked open my TG-16 last night and started this mod. EXCELLENT instructions! I've only completed half the mod (started late in the evening), but it's been fun! Well, fun and stressful! Cutting those HUcard pins sent "holy shit" thoughts through my brain with each pin I cut (except pin 18 8) ). I'll take pics once I've completed the mod. Hopefully tonight.
For the TG-16 do you have any recommendations for placement of the region PCB? I would like to put the RF shields back on and I want the region chip somewhere safe.
I usually just double-sided tape it to either the top of the hucard slot or nearby on the system board. There's so much room inside the TG16 that there shouldnt be much trouble making it fit! :D Just watch your wires and the edges of the RF shielding. At times I've cut away some of the RF shielding to make more room for wires coming and going. I always tape the edges of cut RF shielding with some felt tape to make sure it doesnt cut anyone should the unit be taken apart again.
Quote from: BlueBMW on 06/04/2013, 08:35 PMI usually just double-sided tape it to either the top of the hucard slot or nearby on the system board. There's so much room inside the TG16 that there shouldnt be much trouble making it fit! :D Just watch your wires and the edges of the RF shielding. At times I've cut away some of the RF shielding to make more room for wires coming and going. I always tape the edges of cut RF shielding with some felt tape to make sure it doesnt cut anyone should the unit be taken apart again.
Blue have you ever just left the thin RF shield off? I can see putting the fat RF shield back on without any issues, but the thin one won't fit without cutting it (like you said) with region chip mounted on the HUcard slot or PCB. Dat shit is tight!
I had to solder the wires for the Motherboard on the opposite side and wrap them back around. There was no way the soldering gun was going to fit under the HUcard pins without me undoing all the wire work I had done on the HU pins or melting the shit out of my shrink wrap.
The RF shielding is not critical. It was to meet FCC rf emissions rules. Note that the pc engine models dont have such shielding and operate fine without them. The one exception is the Super CDROM2 models which have grounds linked by rf shields and wont work right without them installed.
Bottom line, if you need to cut some of the shielding to make room for your mod, by all means do it! Just watch the sharp edges when you do.
I finished soldering up everything 5 minutes ago. All the connections look good. H goes to the HUcard side and P to the PCB for all the pins. I didn't have a SPDT switch so I ripped up an old clock radio and reused a switch from it. Then I carefully put the motherboard into the housing and slid the TG-16 into the expansion for my TG+CD docking base. I tossed in a spare Keith Courage and flipped the power switch. The TV screen went white. So I flipped the switch for my old clock radio. No change.
I'm thinking the switch is no good. It's a 2 position switch, but it has 6 solder connections. It was only ever meant to be temporary. I just wanted to test my install and it was the only thing I could find.
You can temporarily just connect A to B or B to C to test without a switch.
Quote from: BlueBMW on 06/05/2013, 11:15 PMYou can temporarily just connect A to B or B to C to test without a switch.
Yeah, I tried A to B and B to C, but I get the same results. Just a white TV screen.
I measured pin 38 just to make sure I was getting voltage. This is the pin I used to power the region mod chip. I'm getting 5V so power is getting to the region mod chip. I also triple checked the wiring just to make sure I didn't have pin 19 going to 20, or an H going to a P. Solder connections look good so I'm a little stumped at what to try next.
I also took a volt meter and measured A, B, and C. I get 5V on pin A, but 0 on the others. I'm going to take some isopropyl alcohol and clean everything up next, but after that I'm not sure what to do.
Any advice?
FYI, I'm confident with my solder work. I went to college for an Electrical Technician course where 50% of our grade was lab work involving soldering. I've done mods like this before, and have to work with PCB's quite frequently. I'm trying to tell you I'm competent. :)
Hmmm... It sounds like youve verified each line is correct and youve got good 5v and ground.... I can see no reason why it wouldnt work... I havent had any chips come back bad yet, though I suppose it is possible. Kf you are certain all the lines are connected correctly then I can only suspect it might be a faulty chip. I can send you another one asap if youd like. Though Id hate to make you have to solder another one.
Quote from: BlueBMW on 06/06/2013, 12:40 AMHmmm... It sounds like youve verified each line is correct and youve got good 5v and ground.... I can see no reason why it wouldnt work... I havent had any chips come back bad yet, though I suppose it is possible. Kf you are certain all the lines are connected correctly then I can only suspect it might be a faulty chip. I can send you another one asap if youd like. Though Id hate to make you have to solder another one.
I'll keep you posted. I plan on resoldering the entire thing this weekend so I'll find out if it's me or the chip. I would have done it tonight, but I ran out of desolder braid.
Have you ever tested the region mod chip using a TG+CD docking base? Also, I read something about grounding pin 29 back in the first few initial posts of this thread. Maybe that was for a Duo?
Pin 29 is for japanese systems to disable a hardware region lockout. Shouldnt matter if youre using the system with a cdrom base or not.
Quote from: BlueBMW on 06/06/2013, 08:02 AMPin 29 is for japanese systems to disable a hardware region lockout. Shouldnt matter if youre using the system with a cdrom base or not.
Thanks for clarifying. I will keep you posted.
with the cart removed the mod can be tested with a meter
it works just like a switch (with a few ohms in the chip)
so you should be able to measure the continuity from the motherboard to the slot
Quote from: thesteve on 06/06/2013, 04:07 PMwith the cart removed the mod can be tested with a meter
it works just like a switch (with a few ohms in the chip)
so you should be able to measure the continuity from the motherboard to the slot
Makes sense. I don't like the location so I'm going to move it to another area of the MB. This means resoldering pretty much everything, but once I'm done I'll definitely test the continuity at the HUcard slot.
Can I assume that B to C (measuring 0 volts) is for NTSC and that A to B (measuring 5V) is for Japan?
thats correct
Still no luck BlueBMW, and thesteve. :(
Last night I removed the region mod chip (RMC) and every piece of wire I had used. I threw the 26 gauge wire I had used into the garbage and replaced it with some 30 gauge stuff from my workplace. The sheathing has an extremely high threshold to heat and I find it easy to work with so I figured I would try it. I replaced every single piece of wire and started soldering everything back together. When I was done I inserted a spare KC HUcard again and inserted the raw MB into the expansion bus of the TG+CD docking base (I wasn't reassembling everything again to test it out). I connected B to C with a few simple twists, powered up the docking base, and then powered up the TG-16. Same result - white TV screen. To be thorough, I removed the KC HUcard and inserted Legend of Hero Tonma (PCE) instead. Then I connected A to B and powered everything up again - same result (white TV screen).
Disheartened, I grabbed my multimeter and checked for connectivity from the "H" connections on the RMC to the HUcard slot. I used the underside of the RMC for checking connectivity. All 8 wires passed. I did not check the connectivity for the "P" connections as these 8 wires are the shorter of the runs and also much easier to solder. It was also midnight. 8) I did inspect them visually and they look perfect.
Tonight I will check the "P" side for proper connectivity and I will also install a proper SPDT.
In the past, or when you guys install the RMC, do you reassemble the entire console before testing? I don't want to put the whole thing back together without making sure it passes first, but I'm wondering if the RF shielding needs to be there for proper ground. I have my doubts. I am really just grasping at straws here.
I always test them apart... but on the tg16 I dont run it long since part of the rf shield acts as a heatsink for the voltage regulator.
If you still have no luck, Ill mail you another chip or two and some cash for your wasted time.
Quote from: BlueBMW on 06/07/2013, 11:21 AMI always test them apart... but on the tg16 I dont run it long since part of the rf shield acts as a heatsink for the voltage regulator.
If you still have no luck, Ill mail you another chip or two and some cash for your wasted time.
Don't send me any cash! If I ignore the fact that I can't get this thing working and that there's been no payoff, it's still been a fun and interesting project.
Do you really think it's the RMC? I mean there's only a single component on it.
Here are a few pictures. Maybe I'm missing something plain as day. This first pic is me unpackaging the brand new RMC from the Ziploc. I was concerned about some of the solder on the chip. In the picture you can see there is already solder filling holes 19P and 21H on the PCB.
/regionmodchip.png
Here's a shot of my second attempt at this installation. It's the underside of the TG-16 MB. I'll post a shot of the top side (HUcard side) tonight. I just happened to have this underside pic on my phone. On my first attempt I mounted the RMC on top of the HUcard slot as you show in the instruction manual, but I didn't like the placement (I didn't want to cut anything) so I relocated it when I had to redo all the soldering.
/regionmodbarnacled.png
Do you see anything I may have missed? It's hard to tell in the pic, but who knows.
Did you run a wire for ground on the chip?
Also, you can snap off the unused switchless board part.
Yes I did. I ran it in after I took this picture. I have it soldered to the left of the "CN102" connector. Right above the number 37, and 38 on the MB. It's soldered to one of the spots the RF shield is usually soldered.
Yeah, I know I could snap the useless bit off, but it helps me whenever I'm soldering (gives me something to hold) so I just left it on.
[EDIT] I installed a proper SPDT switch today. No luck. I'll try removing everything and reconnecting the original HUcard pins this weekend. If that doesn't work then I have killed :shock: a TurboGrafx-16.
*Double post*
So tonight I removed the wiring and the RMC from my TG-16. I had a hard time believing the region mod chip was at fault so I decided to wire everything back the way it was. It wasn't easy, but I think it came out pretty nicely;
/img20130607223637.jpg
So I wired everything back to factory default and insert it into the TG-CD docking base. I flipped both power switches. Nothing. Just the same white TV screen. I check the RCA cables (again) to ensure they are plugged in correctly and are inserted into Video 1. They are. I pull out the Keith Courage HUcard and insert another one. Same result.
I'm baffled. I don't know what has happened, but it's obviously something I did while trying to mod the console. It definitely was not the region mod chip at fault. Old PCB's like this aren't exactly complicated, but I don't know what the issue is. Visually the MB looks identical to what it looked when I first cracked open the housing. The fuse is good, capacitors are good. The only visual difference is some very minor melting (visable in the pic) on the HUcard slot where I came too close with the soldering iron.
As a last ditch effort, I went ahead and soldered the RF shielding back into place. My thought process being that maybe it provided a GND that I wasn't aware of. Unfortunately, it didn't help. The result was still a white TV screen.
For anyone reading this, I would like to state whole heartedly that I do not blame the region mod chip for this failure. This is obviously a user error (the user being me). I obviously screwed something up at some point along the way.
I will remove the RF shielding later this weekend and inspection the MB closer. If anyone has any troubleshooting methods for getting my TG-16 working again I'm all ears.
I may have just killed a TG-16.
*prays to turbo gods for forgiveness*
[EDIT]
BlueBMW, the reason why I mentioned pin 29 earlier was because of this post;
Quote from: BlueBMWedojapan's TG16 is the first US system I've ever heard of needing the pin 29 grounded on in order for the region switch to work. I'll be adding a note to the install guide. Maybe some of the very late (or very early) TG16s were a little different as far as region lockout goes.
Congrats on the great install edojapan!
It's from earlier on in this thread.
PM sent!
Just wanted to let everyone know that you can buy the region mod chips from my website:)
www.tg16pcemods.com
Bump!
Still available from www.tg16pcemods.com
Hi,
I have fully recap my GT, and now I am thinking about modding it with Region Switchless Mod.
Are you planning to restock :
Region Mod Chip $18 shipped ?
Switchless Control Board $4 extra ?
Yeah, we're working on getting more. We need to revise the main board anyways. Will keep y'all posted.
Thanks for your answer. :D
If you have switchless boards only I will be interested for other project. Please let me know.
Damn, I must have bought the last one. Sorry Rax!
FiftyQuid that "ESD Safe" carpet in the background might be the culprint... unfortunately...
Small update here...
It appears that the original run of these region mod chips is just about sold out. As a result, we are working on making some new region mod chips. A few revisions are being made and also some changes to hopefully make them easier to install.
Groovy, I need a couple more :)
cant wait for these new batch to be released, i really need one!
Switchless boards received today, thanks ! :D :D :D
The revised boards are sent out to be made. They should arrived in a few weeks.
Good timing, I'm gonna need a few in a few weeks :D
The circuit was revised slightly for better chip compatability
Had an issue with a few cbt3383 chips refusing to latch on original circuit 2
Also some other things were revised to make installation much easier I think.
The new region boards are shipped, they should arrive later this week.
Yay!
Very good news !
The new boards are in. I will install one to make sure everything works.
The new region boards are now available for sale:)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/tg16mods%20website/8385A54F-A0DA-4152-BEDE-5B751A4E698C.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/tg16mods%20website/4414C034-E7BB-4958-A83B-33173B26FF34.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/tg16mods%20website/82C1A995-BD64-40DA-A012-A42992C24CA5.jpg)
Those look pretty sweet.
OBEY switch! :mrgreen:
Updated the original post to reflect the new boards!
I also notice that the new revised region board works better with the turbo everdrive. I just did three pc-engine's and the everdrive fired up ok on all three.
Nice information :dance:
Bump:)
A thought:
uploadfromtaptalk1396149387826.jpguploadfromtaptalk1396149406314.jpguploadfromtaptalk1396149421490.jpg
Are you thinking to make it even thinner?
Yes thinner
I cut the board to half thickness
Cut a hole for the chip and soldered it on with the bulk of the chip through the board for an example
Pretty slim.... Hehe
Whoa thesteve, that's seem like a lot of work:)
I know there's no room for the bottom shield with the current configuration in the TE/GT. Maybe there is a better spot for the region chip like opposite of battery bay area.
I think the secondary goal here is to make the wires as short as possible so fitting the chip as close to the hucard slot as possible is desirable.
Both correct
Even with the current board thickness were the board notched, thickness wouldn't be an issue
That's why I have have been installing the chip without the board
That's why you're the master thesteve:). I tried installing without the board once, I had trouble with it.
should make the board using SN74CBT3383CDBR (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/SN74CBT3383CDBR/864225) and NC7S02M5X (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/NC7S02M5X/673352)
(?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=8177&image) (?action=dlattach&topic=10112&attach=8175&image)
Whats different about those two? They look smaller but are there some performance or efficiency gains to be had?
the 5 pin chip is 1 channel of the 4001 (about the size of the transistors i used for the component circuit)
the 3383 is the same, only half size
Bumped:)
Bumped, still have plenty:)
Hitting the bump button;)
Don't forget, you can still get the obey region chip from me. Pricing structure changed. It's now $16 plus $2.50 for shipping with in the us.
Updated first post
So the obey chip version 2 is just about out. Fear not, we are working on a newer smaller form factor version that will cut down on installation time. The new obey chip will install and solder on the hucard slot 9 pins. Best of all, it will work on all turbografx and pce systems including the turbo express and pce gt. Unlike previous versions of the obey chip, the main and switchless chip will be on one board.
Most excellent!
The new region boards are on its way. It should arrive this Thursday.
The new region boards are on a flex board. The way it works is that it folds 3 times like an "S". The 9 hucard slot pins are severed leaving a 1/4 from the bottom and 1/4 from hucard slot. There are soldering holes that lines up and place on the pins coming from the main pcb and soldering pads that lines up to the hucard slot pins. There are 3 soldering holes for the wires for the switch.
Assembling these will be painful because of the small sizes of the passive components (sizes 0402) but I will know for sure when I get them. Also the fab of the boards were more expensive then the last version so the new price will be $18 to $20 before shipping for the main board and still $6 additional for the switchless board option for the gt/te.
Hmmm, do I use the old obey chip or busy order a new one to save install time. Decisions...
New obey region board vs old. I will do a video of an install after our little vacation sometime next week.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214721im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151224/24b2cc92d1b960d7274f414434dd3c6a.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214717im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151224/cfeae39d21843acdd79f431ae463ab1a.jpg)
So we ran into a few kinks. Holes and pads doesn't quite line up. We're making some changes to the design.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214718im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151228/641f8dda58583a3e23ee229cf5de9ed0.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214718im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151228/a6e8c86de9a8b64a14726de18c94c343.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214717im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151228/e3af9128444be18150b3d7d05bd0f45a.jpg)
A little oops. Aside that how does it work compared to the old mod? About the same? I was just wonder if it'd perform better or not.
Quote from: wilykat on 12/29/2015, 09:29 PMA little oops. Aside that how does it work compared to the old mod? About the same? I was just wonder if it'd perform better or not.
It should perform better especially with the everdrive since the data lines are a lot shorter without the use of wires.
We will get another batch run. We are double checking everything again and will go with bigger footprints for the components.
It looks amazing, tubokon! Can't wait for the changes and the updated version of the board. You've now double-reverse engineered the problem and made it a clip-on design? :shock: Dang.
=D>
Quote from: blueraven on 01/05/2016, 10:32 PMIt looks amazing, tubokon! Can't wait for the changes and the updated version of the board. You've now double-reverse engineered the problem and made it a clip-on design? :shock: Dang.
=D>
Thanks, but I can't take full credit. This is mainly thesteve idea and design.
im waiting on the mail here so i can finish testing the switchless circuit to see if it needs anything changed
switched mode was tested working by turbokon already
:D
Just installed the oBey mod chip into the PC Engine Duo! Even though I've done a bit of repair work on and off, I never got around to doing a mod. This bothered me so I bought a few chips from Turbokon at MGC last year and this weekend a bit of magic happened.
I cut the pins, and installed the shrink-tubing and I was thinking to myself "what the fuck, not only is there no turning back but this shit is pink and it looks ridiculous." On top of it my Hu-Card slot was flipping me the bird.
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq21/Rookstower/Video%20Games/repairs/IMG_3617_zpss1q7gqcc.jpg)
After a snag or two I realized that there was a large blob of solder connecting pins 20 and 21, so I cleaned it up and bent the wires with a small needlenose pliers so that the chip would be level with the heatsynch. I then encased the chip and all of the wires in a bit of bubble wrap (an idea that I got from doujindance, although I have no Idea why also he has like 3 fucking RGB boards, an elephant and the encyclopedia britannica inside the systems he resells). I then bridged pins 29 and 30 on HU6280.
The chip went in, I mounted it on the RF shield above he Hu-Card slot, and cut a hole in the back of the case for a low-profile I/O switch. I filled in the edges with clear epoxy and double-checked the connections so that they could be quickly desoldered in the event of a repair.
but here is my working install as per BMW/Turbokon's guide and help in chat from chop5 and thesteve:
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq21/Rookstower/Video%20Games/repairs/IMG_3620_zpso8kjupq4.jpg)
Love the design, guys and can't wait for the new board! I'll be picking a few more of these up in the next month. :mrgreen:
Cheers! And thanks for all that you do!! 8) :mrgreen:
Thanks blueraven, glad to see you finally installed the obey chip.
Quote from: turbokon on 12/30/2015, 08:25 AMIt should perform better especially with the everdrive since the data lines are a lot shorter without the use of wires.
We will get another batch run. We are double checking everything again and will go with bigger footprints for the components.
I have a TED v2.4. I have not tried nor do I have a previous version. But in all the systems I have installed the Obey V2 chip in all worked fine with the TED v2.4.
I've done more than these 3 but these are the best ones I have done with a clean look.
Duo-R-RGB-region.jpg
PCEngine-Duo-RGB-Region.jpg
DSC00681.jpg
I am sure I can do better but as they say, practice makes perfect. These 3 systems are also using Turbokons RGB amps. The black PC Engine Duo I found using a connector to be extremely helpfull in case I needed to go back into the system I also use a thin velcro to mount the chip so I can move them or remove them a lot easier than using double sided tape.
Here is the new revised version 3 obey region chip. Tested and working on a turbografx-16. We're still testing on an express using the switchless function.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183457im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/93e39fe175e1bc99a4e8a5b730232da0.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183458im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/a7f33a34ad0838f58a72daf65049e86b.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183458im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/73213fbdd48769987f7e85f238f1bd54.jpg)
Here is another install of the new obey region chip on a duo-r.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509183453im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/374320f557b51d201bab301a0fea06d7.jpg)
That mod is so tiny!
Quote from: wilykat on 01/30/2016, 08:30 PMThat mod is so tiny!
We had to keep it tiny so that it fits all variation of the pce/tg16 systems.
Here is the install video on a duo-r. http://youtu.be/2Avu15UZDDQ
Thesteve confirmed switchless function is working on an express. We will do another install video for an express.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214715im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160131/158308f3bf6ea39c3ae6d3105718ee6b.jpg)
Here is the install video for an express install.
http://youtu.be/9WmXR9JfH7A
The key to the install of the version 3 obey region chip to the cuts the top pins really short.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214714im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160202/21495e37b979d467ab35ad22a0d85853.jpg)
This is the full install for the express/gt with the switchless function. You only ran 3 wires.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190509214714im_/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160202/43d6cd2b06255f31e8d95e87c39afe81.jpg)
How much are they?
Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/03/2016, 08:04 PMHow much are they?
Main chip is $18 plus $3 shipping, add $6 for switchless option.
So if i understand correctly, the switchless chip does not work on consoles ATM?
I have a US TG16, so i would need to install a switch as well, correct?
Quote from: spawnshop on 02/07/2016, 01:55 PMSo if i understand correctly, the switchless chip does not work on consoles ATM?
I have a US TG16, so i would need to install a switch as well, correct?
That is correct. It require you ran a wire directly to the select button. You can't do that on the home consoles.
Quote from: turbokon on 12/11/2015, 09:07 AMSo the obey chip version 2 is just about out. Fear not, we are working on a newer smaller form factor version that will cut down on installation time. The new obey chip will install and solder on the hucard slot 9 pins. Best of all, it will work on all turbografx and pce systems including the turbo express and pce gt. Unlike previous versions of the obey chip, the main and switchless chip will be on one board.
Did my design influence the v3?
Also did you test the TED at all? The only reason I haven't released my boards was because thesteve never figured out how to get the TED to work in the coregrafx consoles, or never told me if he did...
actually we have tested with everdrive and have yet to have an issue
as far as influence this is what i was shooting for in the first place, but TurboKon wasnt comfortable with soldering such small parts
tho i could say they were both influenced by me
Quote from: thesteve on 02/23/2016, 10:19 PMactually we have tested with everdrive and have yet to have an issue
as far as influence this is what i was shooting for in the first place, but TurboKon wasnt comfortable with soldering such small parts
tho i could say they were both influenced by me
What version of the TED are you testing with? Maybe that's the difference...
well i just tried a 2.4 in my modded express that refused to run in a DoujinDance modded DUO and it works perfect
also TurboKon tested the ED2.4 on a white PCE with the flex board (ver3)
Quote from: thesteve on 02/23/2016, 10:40 PMwell i just tried a 2.4 in my modded express that refused to run in a DoujinDance modded DUO and it works perfect
also TurboKon tested the ED2.4 on a white PCE with the flex board (ver3)
Excellent! So 2.4 is the hardware version or OS or firmware? That could be the reason mine isn't working, it's a v1.1 board! That the TED I sent you for testing with my pcb on the CG and white pce.
So you didn't have to add the pull-downs or the bigger cap for it to work on the CG and white pce consoles, like you suggested on mine?
right, this is a 2.4 board everdrive (dont know what bios)
didnt have to do anything to it, no pull-up/down or added caps
Quote from: thesteve on 02/23/2016, 11:18 PMright, this is a 2.4 board everdrive (dont know what bios)
didnt have to do anything to it, no pull-up/down or added caps
Well that's great! I'll get a hold of a newer TED and retest mine, hopefully it works!
Even with the older region, I never had issues with the TE V1.1.
Bump
Quote from: turbokon on 02/07/2016, 03:17 PMQuote from: spawnshop on 02/07/2016, 01:55 PMSo if i understand correctly, the switchless chip does not work on consoles ATM?
I have a US TG16, so i would need to install a switch as well, correct?
That is correct. It require you ran a wire directly to the select button. You can't do that on the home consoles.
So I finally had the time to sit down and install the V3 Obey - man, works like a charm! :)
Now I gotta pick up some PCE games!!
Hey guys, I finally updated the guide for obey version 3 region chip. It was almost two years overdue. Sorry it took so long.
https://www.pcengine-fx.com/downloads/ObeyChip_V3_Region_Install.pdf
https://www.mediafire.com/file/5x6zlhvvb0ozn49/Obey_Chip_Version_3_Region_Install.pdf