PCEngine-FX.com

Added a controller port to the Turbo Express. Used a TG sized connector as a test but it will end up with a Duo connector.

When plugged in onboard controls are disabled, haven't tested a turbo tap yet

/imagevzv.jpg
/imagepli.jpg

Cool, can't wait to be able to take my composite vid out modded turbo express to my brothe's house and get some bomberman action!!

cool
did you resolve the power save function?

Awesome mod!  Any schematic?  Also turbokon was it difficult adding composite video?

Schematic coming very simple to do actually. And will post a video of it in action.

I still need to composite vid mod but i also want svideo on this one.

do the mod as S-Vid and mix for composite

Steve isnt the TE missing the entire video circuit
 Need to build from scratch right?

As far as saving games? Still working on it

Quote from: thesteve on 07/29/2012, 08:20 PMcool
did you resolve the power save function?

no.....the system will power off the screen if the controller isnt used

No i havent, does it still do that with new LCD installed?

the way i wire it, yes
it can easily be disabled, but i like it

So after inactivity just the 5v line is disabled that goes to the stock screen?

yes, and the inverter shuts off

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/29/2012, 01:15 PMWhen plugged in onboard controls are disabled, haven't tested a turbo tap yet

Sweet, it'll be pretty awesome playing 5 player Bomberman while on the bus! =)

Seriously though, so controller port and planned AV output to make it a portable and home TG16 system? That is pretty cool. Really portables like that should definitely be outfitted to allow for home console play. The PSP was disappointing that it first didn't have TV output, then it did but you still had to use the PSP as the controller and then finally you could use a PS3 controller with the PSP GO but you couldn't play UMDs. Silly.

As far as svideo isnt the TE missing the entire composite video circuit?

Quote from: Drakon on 07/29/2012, 08:49 PMAwesome mod!  Any schematic?  Also turbokon was it difficult adding composite video?

Not really, I think the hardest is modifying the earphone input to take both composite vid and stereo sound.

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/29/2012, 11:02 PMAs far as svideo isnt the TE missing the entire composite video circuit?

As steve discovered, the 6260 can already do composite natively.  Just knowing to tap into the right pins with the right resistor values.

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/29/2012, 11:02 PMAs far as svideo isnt the TE missing the entire composite video circuit?

actually the encoder is mostly there, just disabled

I think both NEC and Sony selfishly did not want these to be home console replacements, Nintendo has done the same thing with no AV outputs natively.

Good thing that people like TheSteve and others are here to take care of things like that. Just took us a while :-)


Its awesome how we all share our discoveries here and collectively are improving our NEC consoles
 

Quote from: MottZilla on 07/29/2012, 11:02 PM

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/29/2012, 01:15 PMWhen plugged in onboard controls are disabled, haven't tested a turbo tap yet

Sweet, it'll be pretty awesome playing 5 player Bomberman while on the bus! =)

Seriously though, so controller port and planned AV output to make it a portable and home TG16 system? That is pretty cool. Really portables like that should definitely be outfitted to allow for home console play. The PSP was disappointing that it first didn't have TV output, then it did but you still had to use the PSP as the controller and then finally you could use a PS3 controller with the PSP GO but you couldn't play UMDs. Silly.

Here is the video of the controller port in action (and a look at the battery mod).

http://youtu.be/prAZU2iOqO8

Personally it blows my mind away that you guys can do this kinda stuff. Duo, loved the video demonstrating the battery mod. Now all you need is Steve's tv out and you got a full on console. Next step is battery backup and cd connection  :mrgreen:

Quote from: HercTNT on 07/30/2012, 01:58 AMPersonally it blows my mind away that you guys can do this kinda stuff. Duo, loved the video demonstrating the battery mod. Now all you need is Steve's tv out and you got a full on console. Next step is battery backup and cd connection  :mrgreen:

A spinning cd drive running off of batteries would eat through the batteries in record time most likely.  Also you'd need to rebuild the expansion port.  Heck if you're going through all that trouble it would be easier buying a cheap pc engine and portablizing it.

Yeah, there are so many smart people with the likes of thesteve, duo-r and others. I have so much to learn.

What's next?  built in CD system for portable CD games?

exactly hehe

Hey they made a portable Saturn, it could happen... lol

Oh i believe you. I'm an unashamed cheerleader for the incredible amount of talent in these forums. You got guys making homemade flash carts, brand new hucards, doing voice overs, adding new screens, batteries, controller ports to portables, etc.........  One of you is gonna attempt it one day just to day you did. Until that we are all grateful for the hard work everyone has done to make the turbo so much better in every way.

ok so got some requests on how to wire this one up, it is actually pretty simple. Note - wire colors have no relevance, just to make it easier to see each line.


TE Controller Mod copy.jpg

Also for the controller to properly work we need to connect Ground and 5V line as follows:

5v connects to controller pin 1
Ground connects to controller pin 8





I can show you later where I grab the 5V line, it is from the large voltage regulator on the same side as all the ribbon cables. Ground is also available on the same side.


Make sure you pay attention that the ports shown are the female connector.
 

One more thing - it isn't even necessary to direct solder to the chip, there are actually little via points that you can tap to, right next to each of the pins. You can actually see the lines run to these small little points. Grab your ohmeter to check it. I can post pics later.

And Herc thanks for the kind words!

Wow that's insanely simple.  I must say as a modder the pc engine is probably the best system to mod, it's a very straightforward system with hardly any issues or interference.   Every other classic console I modded I had to deal with some sort of video or audio intereference.  With the pc engine the audio needed a little bass boost and amping but atleast the picture is pixel perfect.

I suppose you just probed where the controller connector traces went to and discovered there was no components in between the connections and the chip?

yeah it is actually really simple. I looked into this years back, but when I saw the non-standard IC on the controller board I backed off thinking it wasn't possible. I tried measuring where the lines went to knowing they connect to the HU6280 but could not trace them. I recently checked again and realized that there were some parts (like resistors) in between and that is why I couldn't measured. After doing the Sega Nomad controller mod, I just applied the same method, and bypassed the chip. It worked just like the Nomad mod.

Quote from: Drakon on 07/30/2012, 06:44 PMWow that's insanely simple.  I must say as a modder the pc engine is probably the best system to mod, it's a very straightforward system with hardly any issues or interference.   Every other classic console I modded I had to deal with some sort of video or audio intereference.  With the pc engine the audio needed a little bass boost and amping but atleast the picture is pixel perfect.

I suppose you just probed where the controller connector traces went to and discovered there was no components in between the connections and the chip?

Wait you know how to add a controller port to the nomad?!  I want that schematic!!

check it out, I haven't done a schematic yet but it is a similar concept:

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?msg=240644

Should that pin 22 from hu6280 be 23??

nope it's 22, the diagram is labeled a little funny, pin 24 almost looks like it is labeled pin 25. I always recommend checking the chip, it is marked at the 40 and I count backwards.

Gotta, thank:)

Here are the via points

/imagexdio.jpg

Note my pin 26 had a little corrosion nearby so yours won't look like that. You can see the trace that connects to pin 26 if you look carefully. This makes it super easy to solder

if it is hard to see, the vias are left to right: 32, 31, 26, 25, 24, 22

smeh I'd probably solder to the surface mount resistors they connect to.  Looks like one of them connections to a 0 ohm resistor haha.

For pin 26 I actually connected to the HU6280 side of the resistor and it worked great

Where do you see a 0 ohm resistor?

Got it working with a duo tap. My girls are playing bomberman!!! More testing is needed though but seems to be working.

(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/7074b349.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/bcacaff7.jpg)

The screen goes blank after five minutes of play. Had to push the onboard controller to activate it. Will have to disable that battery save feature.

Good.to.know, i wonder if just the screen times out? Need to tap a different 5v line

And congrats and glad u got to test the duo tap! Thats awesome!

Quote from: turbokon on 07/30/2012, 10:49 PMGot it working with a duo tap. My girls are playing bomberman!!! More testing is needed though but seems to be working.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/bcacaff7.jpg)

HOT DAMN! Awesome, awesome, awesome. :pcds: :pcds: :pcds:

Thanks, I"m pumped right now. The external display on the big screen also went blank.

Anyone knows where is the relay that's disable the screen?

Yeah we need to kill that

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/29/2012, 01:15 PMAdded a controller port to the Turbo Express. Used a TG sized connector as a test but it will end up with a Duo connector.

When plugged in onboard controls are disabled, haven't tested a turbo tap yet

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I missed this earlier! I saw turbokon's but not yours (oh, the injustice).

I love this mod.

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Its all good! :-) i got a video of the mod too. We just need to disable the power save function now. I think the signal cones from the controller board but hopefully not

Yes, duo-r is the first to try this:)

My next step is to modify the tv turner input and use it as a housing for the duo mini-din 8 female connector.

ok not disabling the power save mode but I found a solution:

if you hold down a button on the built in controls the screen won't disable. I played a game for 10 minutes, the screen didn't go out. I did the YS III trick, and taped down the select button (I used a small object to hold it down).

this is temporary but not ideal long term, so what I plan to do is setup a special pin that will make contact with the Turbo Duo controller when plugged in so it will ground the select line. This will prevent the screen from going out. With select held to ground it doesn't effect the controls at all, the onboard controls are disabled anyways (don't worry hitting start won't reset the game).

That will work unless we figure out how to prevent that from happening. Obviously the built in controls is sending a signal to shut things down. If we could narrow down what line is doing that we may figure out what needs to be disabled. But worse case scenario there is a solution.

Quote from: turbokon on 07/30/2012, 11:29 PMThanks, I"m pumped right now. The external display on the big screen also went blank.

Anyone knows where is the relay that's disable the screen?

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/30/2012, 09:46 PMWhere do you see a 0 ohm resistor?

The green thing with what looks like "000" on it.  The sega 32x has zero ohm resistors in it and I remember them being green as well.

I sent a pm to thesteve on the battery save feature. Hopefully he can chime in.

That doesn't connect to the via point even though it is close by

Quote from: Drakon on 07/31/2012, 06:55 AM

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/30/2012, 09:46 PMWhere do you see a 0 ohm resistor?

The green thing with what looks like "000" on it.  The sega 32x has zero ohm resistors in it and I remember them being green as well.

Quote from: Drakon on 07/31/2012, 06:55 AM

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/30/2012, 09:46 PMWhere do you see a 0 ohm resistor?

The green thing with what looks like "000" on it.  The sega 32x has zero ohm resistors in it and I remember them being green as well.

It should work if you solder to the test spots as duo_r showed in his pic. Double check your connection again and the regulator voltage for 5v. It has to be at least 5v for the externally controller to work. I was using the male end of the duo controller extension to color code the wires against duo_r's diagram and it wasn't working at first for me. Then I realize that diagram is for the female end. So my connection were mirrored.

yeah I just find it amusing whenever a system has a 0 ohm resistor, it's always fun to speculate what was planned to go there

the 0 ohm resistors were mostly used for jumpers (some optional some not)
for instance the turbo express has a 0 ohm resistor jumping pin29 to ground
its missing in the GT

yup that is the resistor that is pictured, it's connected to pin 29. Very interesting. Steve any thoughts on disabling power save mode? If not I will try my connect to select method.

i can disable easy, id want to port it to the external controller

So you're saying to jump the on-board "select" button signal to the external port?

exactly, waiting for my new panel mount connector to arrive, but when it is setup when you plug in a controller, it will ground the select line when the controller port is plugged in and prevent the screen from timing out. I already confirmed this will work unless we get another method.

when controller is unplugged the system will work like normal, select won't be grounded, power save mode will kick in

Quote from: turbokon on 07/31/2012, 03:40 PMSo you're saying to jump the on-board "select" button signal to the external port?

now just get a cd to connect so only my express can do it all.

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/31/2012, 03:46 PMexactly, waiting for my new panel mount connector to arrive, but when it is setup when you plug in a controller, it will ground the select line when the controller port is plugged in and prevent the screen from timing out. I already confirmed this will work unless we get another method.

when controller is unplugged the system will work like normal, select won't be grounded, power save mode will kick in

Where would tap onto the select line?? IC800 on the TE controller pcb?

No nearby one of the lines on the PCB before it hits the chip

Check out the new controller port:


/20120731163907236.th.jpg

jump cc505 to 5V instead

Quote from: thesteve on 07/31/2012, 10:33 PMjump cc505 to 5V instead

Cool, will give this a try.

I can confirm that works. Played r-type for over 10mins using a duo pad on a big screen tv.  Thanks guys. Time for me to finalize every thing and close this baby up:)

Got everything close up and working. Tried to force the mini d in the socket with a plier that's why it doesn't look to clean. It went in easy after drilling the hole a little bigger.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/c93f182e.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/d5bb226a.jpg)

Awesome.

:pcgs:

Thanks, it've have not been possible without people like thesteve, duo_r and others here.

Wonder if the switchless region mod still work with this since it require you to hold select on the turbo express controller. Sold my region modded TE recently. Will modify this TE for switchless region modded this weekend.

I wish I could do casework that cleanly, my work is always ugly which is why I usually try to hide it all under the hood.

Very clean job there. Console modding really requires 2 separate skills, the electrical side of things and then the case work, which a lot of people seem to have trouble with.

Oh yeah I suck at case stuff and don't hide it.  The internal stuff I can do.  I just don't have the patience to make stuff look pretty, life's too short to make things look pretty!

with the cap jumped select is not held

steve, I was talking about the switchless region mod.  Would it still work holding down the select button on the external controller?

Quote from: Drakon on 08/02/2012, 12:53 PMOh yeah I suck at case stuff and don't hide it.  The internal stuff I can do.  I just don't have the patience to make stuff look pretty, life's too short to make things look pretty!

For me it has to be practical, functional and cosmetically appearling before I attempt something.

no it wouldnt.
you would need to hold select on the system

I have a way to mod a panel mount port where it almost looks stock. Will post it installed later this week. Also used the stock ribbon cable, posted earlier.

Glad the hold select region mod still works!

Completed the switchless region mod and can confirm it is working with the external controller mod. Now just need to do the battery mod and my turboexpress will be fully pimped out:)

Nice! Here is a pic of the new port

/20120803182743200.th.jpg

Nice!! Did you use the old housing that clipped through the opening?

Yeah I used part of the old housing, and even the ribbon cable so this could quick disconnect.

Steve - this seems to fix for LCD modded systems, what about stock screen? Is there any way to keep the red connector pumping juice to the stock screen?

What is crazy is the voltage ratings I get on this port, don't think there is really another place to jump power from.

Quote from: turbokon on 07/31/2012, 10:45 PM

Quote from: thesteve on 07/31/2012, 10:33 PMjump cc505 to 5V instead

Cool, will give this a try.

it should work the same

Tried it and it doesn't might have to use the other method I tried for non modded screen. At least until I replace the screen.

the switch circuit is on the controller board, i just havent traced it

I was able to confirm duo_r problem that this method doesn't work with the stock lcd. The stock LCD shut off after five mins but I was still getting video output on my projection tv.

I got a method for stock screen

So Turbokon and I have found that some units that have the switchless region mod don't operate properly. The controller partially works but certain buttons or directions behave different. What is strange on units that don't work is if I hold down the Select button on the controller it's then functions normally.

What is strange - I have a switchless region mod in one of my Turbo Express systems and it works fine. On another system it doesn't, only difference between the two is how the switchless mod is installed, and has LCD mod.

Knowing that the switchelss mod connects to the select line makes me suspect this is somehow related.... very odd

now i have to do 1

ok I switched the "switch" line to run and still behaves the same, I am wondering if a dodgy ribbon cable is to blame for this. hmmmmm

are the built in controls or remote having  issues

Quote from: Duo_R on 08/14/2012, 06:00 PMok I switched the "switch" line to run and still behaves the same, I am wondering if a dodgy ribbon cable is to blame for this. hmmmmm

This is what I'm thinking.  Will test this tonight.

Couldn't get one TE to work with the external controller mod. Just finished the external controller port on another TE and it's working fine. So I've done three TE's but can't get one to work. All are the same with caps swapped, LCD, switchless region mod and composite vid out. So this leads me to believe that it has something to with bad or damage traces.

Another thing to note, my TE with the working controller mod works at 5.10V. The other TE I just sent back with the working controller mods didn't work at 5.10v but worked at 4.95v. Hopefully thesteve will be able to chime in as to the rhyme and reason why the external controller would works at different voltage level for different TE's.

that doesnt make much sense to me either

Turbo did you try replacing the capacitor on the controller board?

Yeah, all had all their caps replaced including the one on the controller board.

And swap controller boards?

Yeah I did and it still didn't work.

So I have successfully added an external controller port to three turboexpress system. It's seems to work best under 5v. Also I noticed that on the home consoles, the controller ports doesn't connect directly to the hu6280. Each pins of the controller port connects to a blue components and from there it goes to the CPU. They start with "FL". Any ideas what these are and their purpose?
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/superkon316/69C04739-0FFB-4CB1-AC7F-9A45A756EE80-386-000000247593933D.jpg)

'FL' is for filter.... or Florida.

its filter
they are a wire with ferrite beads on them

What are they used to filter out?

Necro, I didn't FL stood for Florida too:)

RF

So do you think these filters are needed? Could this be a reason why the controller mods works on some expresses but not others?

There was an old thread describing controller issues on expresses / GTs.  Those large black traces on top of the controller pcb sometimes lose continuity.  Ive had to bypass them on occasion.

as have i
the easiest way is using a strand of wire.
lay the wire strand across the top of the dead trace.
solder both ends.
seal with nail polish (it secures and insulates the repair)

I'm working on a turbo express that have this exact issue.

I realized I never did a video on the completed project for this. Coming soon... :)

For my upcoming component guide of the GT/TE I have this:

If the conductive part of the rubber fails to be conductive even after being cleaned with alcohol,
Conductive Wire Glue can be used (www.wireglue.us) try to avoid conductive ink as it flakes off in time.

This can also be used for the pcb in the circular pcb pads as it's actually related to what nec used when they made
the pcb, you just have to be very careful as the circular pads are very fine and small, if done with care you may never notice
a optical difference upon inspection.

This is also used on some of the controllers for autofire (a couple black square parts) and some other controllers from this era,
some use circular pads in tin/copper and some use goldplated, but a lot of them use this very type of conductive pads.

Cheap pirate controllers conductive pads is dissolved with alcohol, both on the pcb and rubber pads but never seen it happen
 on the big companies controllers (nec/nint/sega.

Thesteve finally determine why the external controller mod seems to work better under 5v (TE/GT operates at regulated 5v). The TE controller works by pulling low and high voltage while the console controller works by only pulling low voltage. For the external controller to work correctly on the TE, the high voltage must be block from pushing back into hu6280 by adding diodes between hu6280 and controller board connector at pins 2 to 5.

Any diagram to show the direction on the diodes? That is great news.

the diodes should be pointing towards the chip on the controller board

Should the on board TE controller still be working? Just tried this, the on board controller isn't working when no external controller is plugged in. However the external controller works fine when plugged.

That's odd

(https://i.imgflip.com/3945f.jpg)

Lol

Hahhahahaahaha.  :pcgs:

LMAO:)

Quote from: turbokon on 08/27/2013, 11:14 PMShould the on board TE controller still be working? Just tried this, the on board controller isn't working when no external controller is plugged in. However the external controller works fine when plugged.

the internal should work fine with the external unplugged

I got it working now. The diodes where facing the wrong direction.