sorry for my poor English
1：replace LCD panel
/65a9d4fcb34b8054387d060f2084c20d.jpg
/57d31d8d6acaeaa6387e698f31d4759a.jpg
2:expand LCD visual area
/163df3643c4fd9a690f0693f4e48dbf0.jpg
3:remove original 2.6inch LCD and replace with new 3.5inch TFT LCD
3.5inch TFT LCD with driver board
/510b607af32258774168978059f306dd.jpg
LCD's parametar:
Size:3.5inch
Resolution:320xRGBx240
Viewing area:72.0x52.56
Interface:Pararell R.G.B
Backlight: LED, Life time 10K hrs
Brightness:350
Contrast Ratio:400
Outer Dimension: 84.03(W) X 65.24(H) X 3.45 (D)
Weight: 40±5g
/8a338cc8b08929d4f86a9b614385cce1.jpg
4:RGBS convert to AV signal
/d48875a2a0c2dd1bc31fbb4ca502284f.jpg
D204=R signal D205=G signal D206=B signal HU6260 PIN44=S signal
RGBS to AV schematic, use mc13077p
/e916c99799071ea447bda43575a662ef.jpg
/b08d260aa7b373a9759d9db0dddda05c.jpg
5:compare with original PCEGT and new LCD PCEGT .
/173fe2e5b3d663e402d8c199fd0987a8.jpg
6:compare mod result(use SF2 game)
old LCD
/5e143535bad319e13a85f296b0591781.jpg
/8164dded76c4e0bb7c2102eed0c3a8fc.jpg
new LCD
/835761c228e2963e162fcf84c14d3893.jpg
/c2ae46d12186b88cc04b4e0d0e6520e2.jpg
That is awesome. Finally someone tried it.
Awesome write up! Can you tell us the source of the replacement LCD screen? And also maybe where to find a schematic for that converter PCB?
looks wonderful but no way to just use the rgb as a source? composite av is nice but not as clear.
Wow!
ugh stoopid me,composite is still a thousand times better than the rgb bleeding screen it already has. :mrgreen:
Bravo man, this mod is amazing.
Dang, what an improvement. Kinda kills the portability putting the converter in the battery compartment, but what the hell - the battery life sucks anyway. Well done.
HOLY MOTHER! :)
:shock: :shock: AWESOME. It would be cool if the convertor would be in the main casing to see how much it improves battery life (and RGB as stated). Still Great job =D> =D>
Edit: USABLE passwords on a TE/GT :dance: :dance:
very nice, gongrats on that great transplantation :)
I had this in the works, congrats on getting it done. Did you get the screen from Dealtime? Also what was your source for mc13077p?
no doubt, a major improvement on battery life. The old LCD screen is a battery hog.
Quote from: nectarsis on 02/28/2011, 03:37 AM:shock: :shock: AWESOME. It would be cool if the convertor would be in the main casing to see how much it improves battery life (and RGB as stated). Still Great job =D> =D>
Edit: USABLE passwords on a TE/GT :dance: :dance:
Great job man =D> This looks like a nice upgrade! Could you tell us which screen you bought?
Yea, lol. I was the first to reply.
Would you be able to do a detail write up for those of us interested in doing this?
Quote from: MotherGunner on 02/28/2011, 04:35 PMYea, lol. I was the first to reply.
No, not about the silly TFT LCD. I was referring to the fact that he
used your name in vain. That's what I'm talking about.
For real. :)
Now THAT is a hardware modification that even I must applaud to! People have been waiting to see something like this for a long time around here, the results look stunning!
Quote from: Keranu on 03/07/2011, 02:01 AMNow THAT is a hardware modification that even I must applaud to! People have been waiting to see something like this for a long time around here, the results look stunning!
I call it the PCE GT Retina Display.
Would be really cool if some kits were available.
I have an idea what needs to be done, just need a source for rgb to composite board. Any ideas?
This new guy is good.
Next mod idea, portable Laseractive.
The screen source is crucial to this repair. Anyway, nice job!
It's going to be something like this:
wayback://ebay.com/itm/3-5-LCD-TFT-Color-Screen-Car-Monitor-DVD-DVR-for-Car-Rear-View-Backup-Camera-/
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7467&image) (https://web.archive.org/web/20190509231238if_/https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-LCD-TFT-Color-Screen-Car-Monitor-DVD-DVR-for-Car-Rear-View-Backup-Camera-/382567807002?oid=190504473573)
There are tons of screens available to use. Just need to figure out the RGB to composite circuit.
Quote from: Duo_R on 03/08/2011, 12:54 AMIt's going to be something like this:
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7467&image)
There are tons of screens available to use. Just need to figure out the RGB to composite circuit.
yes ,THIS LCD screen is same with my mod.
RGBS signal can look from my post pic.and RGB to AV convert.can search a PS or other NTSC/PAL convert,internal circuit board is just a RGB to AV .
look as below
/852c6b8e418ab8ac3dd6ff94082a17a9.jpg
the new LCD pannel use Transparent acrylic like below
/913d1e5104b3e246adcc69e4cf9ab4f5.jpg
and black paint like below
a0f61675eeb4c1dcccfba8ffd94c1ab6.jpg
possible these can buy from EBAY.
What are you saying about the transparent acrylic? Is than needed because you removed the TE cover?
And is that the exact same LCD or just similar? You got yours from ebay?
Quote from: Duo_R on 03/08/2011, 11:47 AMWhat are you saying about the transparent acrylic? Is than needed because you removed the TE cover?
If you want to see the entirety of the new screen, you're going to need a bigger bezel.
im in the process of basically this mod.
the acrylic from the display i used can be cut down to the size needed, and is already painted.
heres a prelim schematic for a video processing board
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=797&image)
This looks great thesteve :)
I've been looking around for a replacement that is more the original size, 2.6". Its hard to find a 4.3 ratio display at that size (cheaply anyway), but 2.5" can be found quite easily. The only thing that concerns me with the 3.5" mod is the cutting of the original casing that's required, but the lure of the size is leaning me towards giving it a go. I might try and find a dead GT and try the mod on a spare case first.
the cutting is not bad/difficult.
I used a knife and hacksaw blade.
than i used scissors to cut the window that came with the display.
just working on the adapter circuit now, that will be required for any swap.
I'd love it if someone offered this service.
I'd definitely pay for it.
i will be offering it once the video boards are made, but it wont be cheap as its quite involved and the parts are a bit pricey.
then wait until you get a number of preorders, then buy in bulk and save :D
Man, if I only had a spare TGE case laying around I'd try this. I dont want to hurt mine [-(
Definitely a great idea.
I'm really excited about this mod and I'd love to do this to my TE. I've been itching to get a PCE LT but I can't justify dropping $500 on one right now. I think a TE screen upgrade is definitely a cheaper and better alternative.
So will the video board be small/thin enough to fit inside and NOT take up the battery compartment like the OP's install?
im still working the bugs out, but my current test board is about the size of a quartar
update
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=801&image)
I did this about two years ago, and was able to fit the video IC board underneath the controller board. I never finished mounting the LCD though. I was unhappy with the quality of the LCD I had.
do tell.
what issue were you having.
mine works well now.
the board is behind my controller.
the issue i have is the pic is shifted slightly left (I only notice in some games)
i disabled my stock backlight driver as well, to save power and for safety.
stock mine pulled 600mA.
with screen mod and switchless region mod it pulls 390mA for almost twice the battery.
some pics (i have more)
running.jpg
added circuit for component
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=809&image)
Looks pretty good. Your LCD is a lot nicer looking than the one I had. Probably much higher resolution.
working
perfect
added RGB select
tested and tuned (added sync on green)
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=833&image)
Fantastic work thesteve :) I'm still in two minds about trying this on my own GT, but that big screen does look great, and kind of how you'd expect it should have been if today's tech was available back in 1990. Will you be producing a thin SMD board like you did for the region mod (and switchless board)? I will be at least interested in one of those as I am still looking at sourcing a drop in replacement LCD screen (in size, so I don't have to cut) that I can combine with your board.
We are working on some small video encoder boards :P
is the final goal to offer this as a modding service? if so you guys could make a mint!
Quote from: c0ldb33r on 10/30/2011, 09:48 AMis the final goal to offer this as a modding service? if so you guys could make a mint!
EDIT
Thats a possible goal. And its a long ways off yet... as far as making a mint though, if and when it happens, it probably wont be that lucrative. It never really is with these sort of things.
The goal is to make these video encoder boards that can be used both for this screen swap mod, and to mod other consoles for s video and component, and also to function as an RGB amp.
Your combining the RGB amp with this!? How completely awesome! :D Great idea, thanks for your great work guys. I'll be up for 2 of these when the are done then! :wink:
Quote from: phipscube on 10/30/2011, 12:39 PMYour combining the RGB amp with this!? How completely awesome! :D Great idea, thanks for your great work guys. I'll be up for 2 of these when the are done then! :wink:
The chip does some amplification and so to use it as an amp you just need to add a cap and resistor to each line after the chip. This can be done on the wires leading from the chip.
Alternately, I drew up some standalone RGB amps that I may make separate:
/RGBAmp-1.jpg
Too bad I never bothered with the handheld systems for the turbo, this looks cool!
If you go with the CXA-1645 encoder, they are known to produce a nice stable RGB signal. That way you can get both S-Video and RGB out, if you're using it on a console. I don't really know if those chips are still available though.
Just for fun, here is a picture of the S-Video boards I made when I was modding systems a few years ago (minus the IC and a few caps). I actually used the CXA2075 (see this page for info: http://www.videoi.com/~pietro/cxa2075/ ), so there were a few less external components on my board. Anyways, anyone who has a system I modded should be able to easily get RGB by adding the three caps and three resistors on the top left.
PartialChromaBoard.jpg
the chip we are designing around is pin for pin interchangable for the cxa
component video proof of concept
wired on a genny2
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=825&image)
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/pcengine/express-gt-composite-t179.html
Encoder no longer needed:
TurboExpressLCDMod.jpg
Ok please elaborate how u did that?
clue's for now....lol
I had to lift 5 pins and ground them. (you might be able to see them in the pic)
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7469&image)
PS: thats an NPN transistor and 75ohm resistor under the grey
thats awesome. I cant wait for this to enter mass production :)
No way!! You sure you're not tricking us with console hooked up to the screen nearby?!?! Just kidding:) Anyway, that's freakin awesome!!!
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7918&image)
simple isn't it
Well done, Steve. =D>
I figure in about five years, Steve will be piecing together new Duos from parts.
i gotta get me one of these gts! steve, you are teh mad scientist of obey
ok offer it I will.
$45 for the AV mod with cable.
public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pCmp4_SiWBZg3XePfKZ5DwCZHKvD0hocG4qSMPidK3upvsjIUKGLXJS-AzDOSYAmMW5pibhkiXxoHLqG9mNI28g/2323%20(1).jpg
can be done as a $5 add on to the screen swap
Sign me up - how much for the screen swap - send me a pm with paypal info =D>
Oustanding Steve. Now you need to tackle the last frontier in GT/TE. New housing and six buttons!
if i can get my hands on a cheap gt, I'll have to send it to you for the screen swap/av mod
Quote from: thesteve on 02/09/2012, 02:31 AM(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7918&image)
simple isn't it
So will this disable the current TE LCD ? I would be interested in doing a audio/video output mod but not cut up my unit for LCD swap.
the original screen still works
TGExpressMod4.webp
TGExpressMod5.webp
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: I just giggled :)
Steve, is there a way to put the AV mod on a TV Tuner instead for those of use who don't want to cut into the TE to add the 3 RCA plugs?
Sigh, I cant use a tv tuner, i broke the cable in mine. I have sent my gt off to steve though for this mod, and i encourage others to do the same.
Quote from: MotherGunner on 02/16/2012, 01:47 AMSteve, is there a way to put the AV mod on a TV Tuner instead for those of use who don't want to cut into the TE to add the 3 RCA plugs?
I
think the only hole you need in your TE is a ~3.5 mm one for an AV cable.
Even better since the tuner has a 3.5 in
the AV out cant go on the tuner, but it can use a 3.5 jack, which is what i did
Can you use the one used for the earphone jack? You'll have to find the right phone jack that also have a video signal? Save you from cutting it up. Thesteve, have you sourced a part number for it?
Quote from: thesteve on 02/16/2012, 09:31 AMthe AV out cant go on the tuner, but it can use a 3.5 jack, which is what i did
Or even the link port? (I don't plan on playing Falcon 2.0 with a friend any time soon) =)
as for the jack I havent been able to source one with the 4th contact, so i had to modify one.
i plan to start modifying the headphone jack for future mods
Hmm, perhaps there is a way to have the ability to "switch" from headphone mode to AV out mode without having to drill a physical switch? (Similar to how you hold select to go from USA to Japan mode when region board is installed)
the AV out is headphone compatable (no switch needed)
Ah, very cool.
Hence the term "AV" otherwise it would just be "V" :wink:
I knew that...I didn't know he could route the AV out as well as the headphone functionality through the same port. =)
:lol: yea i know, i just could not resist sorry he he.
TGExpressMod1.webp
TGExpressMod2.webp
TGExpressMod3.webp
That's pretty frakking awesome. I wonder how hard it would be to mod a PCE controller port into the old tuner port (for a six button/2nd controller fun)
STFU!!!! Steve's already got enough of my money, I dont need him to come up with another feature I can't live without!! :evil: :D I'm already anticipating him figuring out how to add battery backup to the thing one day then i'm gonna have to send it to him again. Do my wallet a favor and stay out :wink:
Mua ha ha ha ha!!!! Rofl!
Quote from: thesteve on 02/17/2012, 02:33 AM*pics*
Holy shit that is awesome! :D
As for the controller port thing, I about blew my load in chat one day when that idea came up. I understand that it's a pretty big unknown right now and the mod might not allow the standard Express controls to work. Getting a controller port on the Express would be absolutely incredible though. :D
its doable
How much? I'm absolutely game for it, I was going to offer a bounty for getting that ability at some point. :D Ideally I wouldn't have to sacrifice the tuner input though.
i hate you mothergunner.........................ok steve..............how doable? you know......just incase..........someone............might be interested. i'm mean, not me.......lets say i know this guy.............. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,)
for a standard port1 its direct wire
the trick is to make it port2
Forgive my ignorance, but does standard port 1 preclude plugging in a turbo tap? Either way I'd be down for it.
could you tap the controls off the cpu, or is it more complicated than that? I wondered about the tap as well. if you routed port 1 to the side, could you not just use a tap and get two player?
port1 tap works
so how tough would this be to do, and what do you estimate it would cost?
i would need to source the connector
LOL, sigh, damn you steve......alright. sometime down the line when you figure out the battery backup i will send you my machine for a third time to have that connector thrown in to. I'm
currently working on a gag order for gunner, you don't need anymore ideas :lol:
Now when steve makes the adapter plug to connect an IFU/CDROM2 to the Express / GT... then we'll really be in for it hehe
Waa??? I looked into doing this and the controller board is completely different (at least it seemed it did) compared to a TG / Duo. I recall it having a special chip running the control board...
Although I have no doubt you will figure a way.
Quote from: thesteve on 02/17/2012, 09:53 PMport1 tap works
true the board is different, but its wired the same.
they just combined the logic chips into an ASIC or PLD
so in theory this thing could take a turbo / duo tap? Wow that would be insane.
Its my understanding its not a theory. As long as he could source the connector its doable. I'm learning from talking to steve that there is no such thing as cant be done. It wont be long before he's
telling me my gt can be fitted with a wet bar and ice maker. When that day comes I'm gonna erect a statue in his honor.........err......well......not quite like that :wink:
So... how about? Jk!!
:evil: .............................. [-X
Quote from: thesteve on 02/17/2012, 02:33 AMTGExpressMod3.webp
WAIT A SECOND!
Why is this development not generating more discussion? I don't know if I actually "need" to have AV out on my Express, but I'm beginning to
want it!
I must say, I was happily surprised to see this development! :pcgs:
Yeah, I think I mentioned this elsewhere, but this is AWESOME! When I have a little extra dough stored up, my Express is going back to thesteve for the screen mod and the av out mod. It's really amazing. :shock: (he recently added a switchless region mod to my Express which is working fantastically)
I am very interested in having this done to my TE when things are ready. All of it.
The bigger screen, AV out, controller port, wet bar and ice machine.
Thank you for making as much of this happen as you have already and for whatever other brilliant ideas you might integrate. I'll just leave the cheque blank shall I?
Also thanks for waiting until I was old enough and responsible enough not to waste my whole paycheck on booze and cigs.
On my son's birthday, when my wife asks why the pinata was filled with coupons for $7 off oil changes instead of candy, you'll all know why. :lol:
LOL, do we all get to collectively sue steve when he ruins our productivity in society :mrgreen:
HOLY CRAP. Why are people not praising the pure awesomeness of all of steve's mods?
Quote from: liquitek on 02/22/2012, 01:20 AMI am very interested in having this done to my TE when things are ready. All of it.
The bigger screen, AV out, controller port, wet bar and ice machine.
I was thinking the same thing. I have to wait to save up the $$$. But I want it. NOW. :pcds:
Just got my express back from him. He completed the large screen install and fixed the sound. I have not had a chance to play with it much or test the battery life of it yet, but it turned out great! Once I get my second express up and going, I'll post some pics of the size comparison between the two. He also installed the auto-region mod in it so now when I want to play japanese games, I just hold down select while powering on the system.
Very cool mods and I can't wait to play it more! He did a great job!
Quote from: thesteve on 02/08/2012, 01:58 AMclue's for now....lol
I had to lift 5 pins and ground them. (you might be able to see them in the pic)
PS: thats an NPN transistor and 75ohm resistor under the grey
Truly awesome ! How did you come up with that ? Do you have a datasheet of the Hu/Huc6260 ?
[EDIT] Ohhh... maybe by comparison with an other NEC console for the resistors values and the pins to ground : http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=hu6260_netlist
Quote from: Flare65 on 02/25/2012, 01:40 PMJust my express back from him. He completed the large screen install and fixed the sound. I have not had a chance to play with it much or test the battery life of it yet, but it turned out great! Once I get my second express up and going, I'll post some pics of the size comparison between the two. He also installed the auto-region mod in it so now when I want to play japanese games, I just hold down select while powering on the system.
Very cool mods and I can't wait to play it more! He did a great job!
Great. Be sure to tell us how lame our stock Expresses are, now that you have pure awesomeness. I am sooooooooooooooo envious. :pcgs:
Quote from: io on 04/21/2012, 07:51 AMQuote from: thesteve on 02/08/2012, 01:58 AMclue's for now....lol
I had to lift 5 pins and ground them. (you might be able to see them in the pic)
PS: thats an NPN transistor and 75ohm resistor under the grey
Truly awesome ! How did you come up with that ? Do you have a datasheet of the Hu/Huc6260 ?
[EDIT] Ohhh... maybe by comparison with an other NEC console for the resistors values and the pins to ground : http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=hu6260_netlist
i actually did a side by side comparison with a TG16 and express, using an ohm meter
I have an LT in good condition that is begging for a screen upgrade like this. Do you know if replacing the standard 4" LT screen would be a similar process?
im sure it would be.
4" is an off size as 3.5" and 4.2" are common
I am interested in the mod, are you still taking orders?
Thanks.
sure, just been busy
I'm gonna get this done at some point too. Just gotta get an Express or GT.
I was very tempted by this, but I ultimately decided against it since a) it's extremely rare for me to pick up my Express and play it anyway, AND b) the 3.5" LCD panel that they're using can only be connected via a composite signal, not the raw RGB signal... They tell me it still looks much better than the original (which I assume is analog RGB connected), but you essentially have to switch to the worst video connection method (only slightly better than RF). When/if they figure out how to connect it via RGB, then maybe I'll think about it. Call me picky! ;)
This is the panel, image attached: NEW 3.5" TFT TomTop LCD Color Screen Car Rearview Monitor DVD VCR (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-3-5-TFT-LCD-Color-Screen-Car-Rearview-Monitor-DVD-VCR-/150715309597?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2317551e1d#ht_3374wt_1020)
TomTopLCD.JPG
RGB would be much simpler
just finding a display to use it is about impossible
Nightwolve, you don't know what you're missing. It's like night and day. The quality of the new LCD versus the old stock screen is so much better that it makes up for using an "inferior" signal. Check out this video I made for YouTube. Hope you didn't mind thesteve :) http://youtu.be/hl0IG8QAnrc
Oh wow, you did a full-on video for it! That's cool!
Anyhow, it's definitely interesting and it looks great! To borrow what esteban said, "I don't know if I actually 'need' the LCD Mod for my Express, but I'm beginning to want it!" ;)
Technical inquiry: So if I understand this correctly, the composite sync pin (44) out of the hu6260 chip is disabled by default when it comes to the TurboExpress because it's inherently connected via raw RGB to its native LCD panel? I would guess they disabled it to save power or something and since it wasn't necessary, that correct ?? And as such, the circuit that 'thesteve' designed manages to re-enable composite sync in order to feed that signal to the new LCD panel because that was the easiest path towards achieving a video connection?
a friend of mine has two turbo's one with steve's screen and one without. Not only does the new screen trump the old one by a mile, but steves recap also makes the sound crystal clear and loud. unless you want to keep your's stock (nothing wrong with that), the new screen is a must in my book.
the stock screen uses pin44 comp sync
by default pin40 lum, pin33 R-Y, pin26 B-Y, and pin20 color burst are disabled as they were not needed.
i enable them
Ah, gotcha! Thanks steve, you're very detailed and verbose with your answers... ;)
i use the acrylic from the new screen.
i cut it to fit
Steve are you still offering this mod with the region mod, my pc engine gt is dying even though it has been recapped, with this mod you can actually read text which is good for Japanese RPG's. I'm really wanting this done.
Thanks
yes pm me
steve, I just want you to know that I still fantasize about this mod. When I have $$$, I will send one of my TE's in for a mod.
This is assuming, of course, that my PCE/TG-CD consoles don't face the mechanical/capacitor apocalypse I have been expecting...
Had him work his magic on my unit. I'm very pleased with the results!
it goes beyond the Pc engine, he put a new screen in my friends gameaxe and its unreal how good it looks.
Just got my modded a few days ago, it's so much better than before.
Quote from: thesteve on 02/09/2012, 02:31 AM(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7918&image)
simple isn't it
This is truly awesome! Can't wait to send my unit in to thesteve for the 3.5" LCD mod. It's one of those things I could probably do my self, but I'd rather pay him then risk doing it myself. Looking at the diagram he posted. I'm just trying to make sense of it. So he lifts and grounds pins 19, 25, 29, 32, and 39. Then he lifts and connects pins 20, 26, 33, and 40 to resisters, connectes them together after, and then thats where it looses me. I'm not a electrical genius so I have no clue what happens next (which why I'd rather send it to be modded then do this one myself) but what happens next? and whats CV?
from what I can guess, once again I have no clue, after the resisters, they connect to a 5.0V source and then NPN (no clue what that is) to a 75 resister (guessing thats 75k?) and then CV?
Sorry for my lack of knowing here, hoping someone could shed some light on where I'm lost, it's great to learn ^-^
thanks everyone!
after the resistors, it goes to a simple amp/driver, than the 75ohm resistor to reduce the signal
Quote from: thesteve on 12/04/2012, 11:57 AMafter the resistors, it goes to a simple amp/driver, than the 75ohm resistor to reduce the signal
simple amp/driver? is that built into the console or have to be added? and is the CV the LCD input?
The amp/driver has to be added to the TE. The CV is for composite video out either directly to the LCD or the 3.5mm earphone or com jack for the external output to tv.
If you want to do both LCD and comp vid out to tv, you'll need two tranx, one for each.
Ah ok, I'm starting to follow, two questions, whats a tranx? and what do you use for the amp/driver?
It's for Transistor, that is what used to amp/drive the video signal.
Quote from: JohnnyPhantom on 12/04/2012, 12:46 PMQuote from: thesteve on 12/04/2012, 11:57 AMafter the resistors, it goes to a simple amp/driver, than the 75ohm resistor to reduce the signal
simple amp/driver? is that built into the console or have to be added? and is the CV the LCD input?
Mixing Y (Luma), Red-Y, Blue-Y, and CB (Chroma Burst) is how the regular NEC console systems produce the Composite signal from the Hu6260 video encoder chip. The reason he has to ground all those pins mentioned is because those outputs are normally disabled (he figured out that grounding them re-enables them, etc.) for the portable. The new 3.5" screen needs a regular Composite signal, so it has to be produced in order to work with it. If he could connect the raw RGB to it, he would, but this is what has to be settled for, regardless, the new screen is far better and clearer even with the use of a Composite signal.
The NPN transistor that he's using is likely his favorite S8050 (as opposed to the #1 transistor in the world, the generic Radioshack 2n3904). Both work about the same, but steve says the S8050 is better in the long run and what not so I bought a pack of 100 myself for the mods that I'm gonna do (already finished my SNES YPbBr mod using it).
A picture of the S8050 is in this thread (https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=13231.0). This image (https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13231.0;attach=1304;image). But steve likely used the surface mount version, which is much smaller, but works exactly the same.
Quote from: NightWolve on 12/07/2012, 11:24 PMQuote from: JohnnyPhantom on 12/04/2012, 12:46 PMQuote from: thesteve on 12/04/2012, 11:57 AMafter the resistors, it goes to a simple amp/driver, than the 75ohm resistor to reduce the signal
simple amp/driver? is that built into the console or have to be added? and is the CV the LCD input?
Mixing Y (Luma), Red-Y, Blue-Y, and CB (Chroma Burst) is how the regular NEC console systems produce the Composite signal from the Hu6260 video encoder chip. The reason he has to ground all those pins mentioned is because those outputs are normally disabled (he figured out that grounding them re-enables them, etc.) for the portable. The new 3.5" screen needs a regular Composite signal, so it has to be produced in order to work with it. If he could connect the raw RGB to it, he would, but this is what has to be settled for, regardless, the new screen is far better and clearer even with the use of a Composite signal.
The NPN transistor that he's using is likely his favorite S8050 (as opposed to the #1 transistor in the world, the generic Radioshack 2n3904). Both work about the same, but steve says the S8050 is better in the long run and what not so I bought a pack of 100 myself for the mods that I'm gonna do (already finished my SNES YPbBr mod using it).
A picture of the S8050 is in this thread (https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=13231.0). This image (https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13231.0;attach=1304;image). But steve likely used the surface mount version, which is much smaller, but works exactly the same.
exactly correct
i am using the 8050, as i found them cheap and plentiful
the 2n3904 is equivalent
Hello people! I want to know if anyone has a good advice on buying a 2.5 LCD to do this, so far I've found this one, comes with a camera also, so the unit must be torn apart, but the price is good anyways:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/185C-2-5-LCD-Screen-4-LED-Car-HD-DVR-Video-Recorder-Camcorder-Night-Vision-TFT-/281031898143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416ece741f
Or this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/mini-2-5-Digital-LCD-Car-Monitor-for-CCTV-CAMERA-DVR-/250771923902?pt=US_Car_Monitors_w_o_Player&hash=item3a632be3be
Anyone has a better (or the best) option?
Thanks!
I'm not sure how the camera feeds into the LCD on the first one so I would say the second since it accept a composite video in.
Thanks a lot for the reply turbokon. I will play safe with the one that has the composite video in.
Also, I am having trouble finding a resistor kit that has both the 6.3k one and the 75 ohm one. The closest one is this, that has all the rest:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-W-Watts-Resistors-Series-87-Value-Kit-0-10M-870PCS-/320955062830?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aba699a2e
And I've been looking for the 6.3 and the 75 one separately (on eBay) without luck on the 6.3k one. So, any advice on where can I get these? Or maybe I can use other similar?
*bump
thesteve can chime in but I think the 75ohm is important but the 6.3k not so, you can go +/- a few 100ohm without a noticeable differents in the color output.
I think I just went with a 6.2k on ebay last time cause I ran into the same issue. Close enough http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=6.2k+resistor&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Good news! I've just found them on a little but crowded electronics shop in downtown around here. I bought both 6.2k and 6.3k just to be sure.
Thanks guys, I will start this as soon as I get the LCD :)
Good luck with the LCD as all will not work with this mod. My last three LCDs doesn't work for the mods and I bought them from the same place.
Quote from: turbokon on 02/26/2013, 06:04 PMGood luck with the LCD as all will not work with this mod. My last three LCDs doesn't work for the mods and I bought them from the same place.
Oh man, I hope not. What specific store/seller/model do you recommend, to make sure it works?
Thanks!
*bump*
I don't know the model/part number but the I usually buy them from here but the last batch I bought doesn't work with the mods.
http://bit.ly/W16BHh
I think that's the same one I picked up based on chat with thesteve and he's run into issues getting it to work in my express as well. He mentioned to me he purchased a few recently from them also and they didn't work either, though it sounded like he was working on a fix. I haven't heard from him in a few weeks, though, so hopefully things are going well.
Ok, the LCD has just arrived. First thing I did was test it and all I get is a white screen... sound works, but no video. I haven't made the TE mod yet because I'm still waiting for resistors on the mail, but I tested it connecting a sega genesis model 2, and I don't get any video.
So, when you say the screen was not working with your mod, what did you get? black screen, white screen, scrambled video?
I am trying to figure out if the LCD I received is in fact defective.. :S
Thanks!
I only get a white screen on mine.
So maybe it's not that they don't work with the mod, but they are defective? It is supposed to take any video signal in, right?
Not nessecery, these are design to be used with 12v system in car. The TE uses way less voltage. Some will be glitchy and some will not work at all at this lower voltage.
I am testing it with 12V. Any video I put, shows the same white screen. I will ask the seller, maybe we are getting defective units!
Seems the seller admits there's something wrong with *all white* displays. They replied to me asking if I've adjusted the brightness wheel on the side (duh! of course) and also requested a small video of the problem. I will send it, and maybe these end up being defective units...
I just tested all the LCDs with a nomad and they all work. They just don't work with the TE mod.
Damn, mine gives all white with any video source :(
im working on the issue
when i have a good solution i will post it.
also the vender wants a video of the prob
Glad I'm not the only one with this weird issue... I will send them the requested video soon, didn't had the time yet, I blame Ys IV english translation :D
Hey thesteve, do you have a solution for the all white screens yet?
Thanks!!
All white sounds like there is a problem with one of the pins for the HU card slot or a more major problem of a bad trace or Chip somewhere on the board. I'd check the Hu card slot first. I had to repair an express by swapping in the HU slot from a doner TG16 since a few pins had been bent and destroyed somehow.
Keith, we have the determined that some of the lcd's won't work with the TE's LCD mods. According to thesteve, it's a resolution issue.
Put the screen in a Nomad ;-)
Quote from: compil3r on 04/07/2013, 09:42 PMHey thesteve, do you have a solution for the all white screens yet?
Thanks!!
In my case, the problem is that the screen is not working with ANY video source... even if I connect a DVD player, there is only sound and all white video. Is expensive for me to send it back to china, so I just ordered another one from other source, checking that is other brand and seller.
Let's see how it goes!
Ahh I thought it was just the TE having issues. Let me know when you guys find a good replacement.
Wait why can't you just split the CV signal?
Quote from: turbokon on 12/04/2012, 12:54 PMIf you want to do both LCD and comp vid out to tv, you'll need two tranx, one for each.
The composite vid out to TV won't be bright enough when using only one transx.
the reason for 2 tranx is so a shorted output, doesnt kill the internal sig, and to maintain the brightness
So your saying a 2nd transistor is used in the circuit?
i use a second drive circuit for my AV out, because the stereo AV out shorts the vid pin to ground when using a headset.
my drive circuit is designed for it
i use a 1k resistor from the first transistor emitter (screen out) to the AV transistor base
220 ohm from 5V to collector , emitter out
during emitter ground, the 1K keeps the video good, while the 220ohm keeps the transistor safe
if the headphone jack was replaced with a true mini AV out port a 2nd NPN wouldn't be used correct? I would think the same Video line could be split to screen / AV out if there wasn't a shorting issue. I have one of those exact ports that I can use.
You would still need the 2nd transistor. If you plan to use the stock LCD, then you would only need one. Where did you get this port you're planning on using?
I sourced from another device, probably a DVD player can't remember.
out of curiosity is anyone testing these on Turbografx / PC Engine / Duo systems prior to opening them up? Do they also display the white screens on those systems?
Quote from: compil3r on 04/07/2013, 09:42 PMHey thesteve, do you have a solution for the all white screens yet?
Thanks!!
That wouldn't be a bad idea. Chances are if they work on a duo/tg16/pce setup with comosite out then it will work with the TE LCD mod.
Exactly that way if you get one that doesn't work you can ship back.
Just need to get an external power supply to boot the screens up.
I use your TE battery mod as the power source when I'm testing these LCD.
Nice
yes i was testing on the TG16
same results
I did the mod so far ... i liftet 19 25 29 32 39 and grounded them . I connected 20(CB)to 27k ,26(B-Y)to8.2k ,33(R_Y)to6.3k and 40(Y) to4.7k ( i didnt lift any of those pins) . Afther the resistors i connected all of them to BASE of a BC337 NPN transistor (on whichs Collector 5v from the upper side , measured and ok) . Emitter goes to 75 ohms and after that to the lcd´s video in . LCDs GND goes to GND naturally . All i get is a very weak picture .
Whats wrong ? Wrong transistor ?
Quote from: pcengin4eva on 10/02/2013, 06:57 PMI did the mod so far ... i liftet 19 25 29 32 39 and grounded them . I connected 20(CB)to 27k ,26(B-Y)to8.2k ,33(R_Y)to6.3k and 40(Y) to4.7k ( i didnt lift any of those pins) . Afther the resistors i connected all of them to BASE of a BC337 NPN transistor (on whichs Collector 5v from the upper side , measured and ok) . Emitter goes to 75 ohms and after that to the lcd´s video in . LCDs GND goes to GND naturally . All i get is a very weak picture .
Whats wrong ? Wrong transistor ?
You sure you're getting 5v to the transistor? Maybe the LCD you're using doesn't work well with 5v.
No :) 5V go to the NPN Collector of the Composite signal
Ipowered the LCD with external 9V for testing . It works perfect with my CoreGrafx Video signal . But not with the TurboExpress Composite i created
Quote from: pcengin4eva on 10/04/2013, 02:50 PMNo :) 5V go to the NPN Collector of the Composite signal
Ipowered the LCD with external 9V for testing . It works perfect with my CoreGrafx Video signal . But not with the TurboExpress Composite i created
Where are you tapping 5v for the transistor?
QuoteWhere are you tapping 5v for the transistor?
From Q502 collector , upperside , measured 5v with multimeter and ok
IMG_0626s.jpg
That should work, check your connection on pin 40, that's is the luma. Make sure it's not bridge with pin 39 or loose.
Weak how?, recheck your resistor values and transistor pinout
Any new LCDs working? I think my TE is done with mods, I might feature it on a YouTube review hopefully "soon" which usually means 2 years! Lol
LCD mod, controller mod, switch less region mod and I'm hoping to add in component mod.
I had this on the back burner for a while, it was almost done but something was acting up but finally fixed it today.
Quote from: Duo_R on 01/25/2015, 11:53 PMhopefully "soon" which usually means 2 years! Lol
I have that same problem with my "soons" or "eventually..." ; )
Gotta try to resist saying or hoping to do various things out loud. Heh.
Yeah you're totally right!
I'm still looking for that perfect one that doesn't show the "AV1" on start up.
Are there screens working again? Links?
These work for me the last batch I ordered.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=170893566596
I use these for my NOMAD mods. Does not show AV1 on startup!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331040572849?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331040572849?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
For those that want the smaller 2.38" LCD screens (the CAF257 was mentioned on another site) anywhere I can source it?
Been looking at this mod, has anyone managed to do this mod in the UK. I love the console so much I don't trust myself in case I muck it up! :roll:
The images on the first page are up the spout, can someone re-upload them please
I did this exact mod to my Nomad last year and I was completely blown away by the picture quality. Unfortunately I used one of the TFTs that reads "AV1" for like 5 minutes. Although it doesn't really bother me, I'd definitely try to get one that doesn't next time.
I used shielded 75ohm video cable (sacrifice almost any yellow plug RCA video cable to get one free) and grounded it at both ends for the signal wire. It probably wasn't necessary, but it can't hurt since you're sending a composite signal amongst all of those electronics.
It has a CRT mesh type look that makes the pixels really pop on the screen:
(https://i.postimg.cc/0r8xvps4/20140113-130118.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0r8xvps4) (https://i.postimg.cc/3W3g5JxB/20140113-131652.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3W3g5JxB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LhHTVstf/20140113-131829.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LhHTVstf) (https://i.postimg.cc/s1VBLQ0j/20140113-132002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1VBLQ0j)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1R6VBPYn/20140113-132241.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rjba8isev/) (https://i.postimg.cc/66RtgQKK/20140113-132300.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/pq8dk7787/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2jhRSXVN/20140113-132328.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/wkio9vzvb/) (https://i.postimg.cc/L4L5FDSn/20140113-132424.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vw9tqy15j/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/7d7s9mwrb/20140113_132442.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7d7s9mwrb/)
Before the mod (and recap) I couldn't read any of the text in the craptastic LOTR game.
Those photos look great, SmokeMonster. Now I wish I had a Nomad. :P
I found the box of parts that I ordered to do the LCD mod. I ordered everything x100
sans the screen with the intention of passing it along to people who wanted to get this mod done. Once I figure out what makes a "complete kit" I'll get back with everyone. thesteve was walking me though it about three years ago, and I had to abandon the project.
Quote from: Duo_R on 01/25/2015, 11:53 PMhopefully "soon" which usually means 2 years! Lol
I feel you. I just found the PM from you requesting the parts. Apologies for not getting back with you in... 2 years. :oops:
I still hold out hope for a cheap LCD panel that can be made to accept raw RGB or at least a better signal than Composite. So far, ones with S-Video shoot up in price significantly over the $20 Composite-only models.
All I see is hot Asian's?
Quote from: EvilEvoIX on 03/04/2015, 08:27 AMAll I see is hot Asian's?
Yup that is all I see as well.
Quote from: Groover on 03/06/2015, 12:57 AMQuote from: EvilEvoIX on 03/04/2015, 08:27 AMAll I see is hot Asian's?
Yup that is all I see as well.
At first I was like how are you people even able to see these so called "hot asians." Then I go to the first post, and boy oh boy you were right lol.
That's what awaits us who use image hosting services.
the 1st images were helpful at the time, but with the advancements that have been made since then I can tell you newer images would be more helpful. He used a video board and had to sacrifice the battery port to make it fit. What specifically did you want to check out?
Quote from: Beaps on 02/12/2015, 08:26 AMThe images on the first page are up the spout, can someone re-upload them please
Hahaha, I was wondering what you guys are talking about... That's funny. So it appears he used a free Chinese image host and the domain got grabbed by somebody else, a dating service, I dunno, but yeah...
Quote from: NightWolve on 03/06/2015, 04:39 PMHahaha, I was wondering what you guys are talking about... That's funny. So it appears he used a free Chinese image host and the domain got grabbed by somebody else, a dating service, I dunno, but yeah...
I had to check the original post, too. I was confused.
you know it comes to my attention it is a possibility of using native RGB with the raspberry screens they are touch screen but I don't think that matters these are cheap there about 20 bucks and we should be able to connect directly to the motherboard on the back check out this link below and let me know you think
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=331509291501&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=331509291501&alt=web)
I've been waiting for a RGB model myself in the usual price range. I didn't see anything in the description that made clear an analog RGB signal is accepted, though. Somebody has to research more and take the risk in buying one.
Aspect ratio is 2:3.
I should also note that I have enough resistors, etc. to do about 50 of these. I just need to unpack the box and check with thesteve to see if the fix has changed in the last few years. I'll update this thread when I have a more clear picture.
Quote from: blueraven on 04/17/2015, 01:10 PMI should also note that I have enough resistors, etc. to do about 50 of these. I just need to unpack the box and check with thesteve to see if the fix has changed in the last few years. I'll update this thread when I have a more clear picture.
nice I look forward to seeing your work when I was looking at these raspberry LCD screens I know that there are connector is directlyit may be a simple it may be a simple option to solder directly to those inputs to achieve the goal but of course I'm not an electrical engineer some kind of shooting in the dark here
Quote from: NightWolve on 04/17/2015, 06:53 AMI've been waiting for a RGB model myself in the usual price range. I didn't see anything in the description that made clear an analog RGB signal is accepted, though. Somebody has to research more and take the risk in buying one.
I decided to look a little bit deeper and the imputs are on the top connector maybe a simple process of plugging in the correct cables here is the interface plugs and what each one does
Interface
PIN NO. SYMBOL DESCRIPTION
1, 17 3.3V Power positive (3.3V power input)
2, 4 5V Power positive (5V power input)
3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 13, 15, 16 NC NC
6, 9, 14, 20, 25 GND Ground
11 TP_IRQ Touch Panel interrupt, low level while the Touch Panel detects touching
18 LCD_RS Instruction/Data Register selection
19 LCD_SI / TP_SI SPI data input of LCD/Touch Panel
21 TP_SO SPI data output of Touch Panel
22 RST Reset
23 LCD_SCK / TP_SCK SPI clock of LCD/Touch Panel
24 LCD_CS LCD chip selection, low active
26 TP_CS
Touch Panel chip selection, low active
External Dimension
3.5inch-RPi-LCD-A-dimension
in other words its a serial data display
For anyone using this type of screen, do you still have access to the settings somehow (brightness, etc)?
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=2620&image)
ah dammit, i finally find instructions on how to do this and as usual the picS are not available. although the women replacements are a first. if anyone knows of a good tutorial on how to do this with clear pictures and instructions could you please leave a link?
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/pcengine/express-gt-composite-t179.html
Is there anyone on the forum who does this mod for hire? I've got a unit coming from a friend that has bad caps, and I'm really curious about having something like this done as well.
Quote from: Mercutio on 05/29/2015, 09:53 AMIs there anyone on the forum who does this mod for hire? I've got a unit coming from a friend that has bad caps, and I'm really curious about having something like this done as well.
PM Turbokon
he does it
I've recently gotten into doing this mod as well. So if Turbokon is backlogged and doesn't want to take on any more jobs at the moment I'd be willing to do it.
Just got mine back today that I had sent to Turbokon. It looks awesome! He did a great job. Highly recommended mod.
Cool! Thanks, guys! I think it might come your way Keith, I haven't gotten anything back from Turbokon.
Quote from: Mercutio on 05/29/2015, 06:08 PMCool! Thanks, guys! I think it might come your way Keith, I haven't gotten anything back from Turbokon.
I think Turbokon said he was taking a break from mods as he concentrated on his magic RGB BOX project.
Quote from: esteban on 05/29/2015, 06:17 PMQuote from: Mercutio on 05/29/2015, 06:08 PMCool! Thanks, guys! I think it might come your way Keith, I haven't gotten anything back from Turbokon.
I think Turbokon said he was taking a break from mods as he concentrated on his magic RGB BOX project.
Yeah, that's what it says on his webpage. i sent mine to him before he put that up.
Any good instructions with pictures on how to mod the system to fit the bigger LCD screen?
Get a file and get to work. It's pretty time consuming. Or a small saw blade of sorts and then file afterwards to smooth things out. Very fine soldering will be needed to tap composite from the HU6260 chip. So be careful if you haven't soldered anything pins that small before.
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/pcengine/express-gt-composite-t179.html
Quote from: Keith Courage on 06/04/2015, 02:27 AMGet a file and get to work. It's pretty time consuming. Or a small saw blade of sorts and then file afterwards to smooth things out. Very fine soldering will be needed to tap composite from the HU6260 chip. So be careful if you haven't soldered anything pins that small before.
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/pcengine/express-gt-composite-t179.html
I'm so excited to have this mod done. I haven't had my TE long but MAN is it impossible to read text in a lot of games...
Question for folks though: how's the battery life improve after the screen is replaced ?
Yes, battery is much improved after replacing the screen. I didn't time it exactly, but mine seemed to last forever with a pack of fully charged Eneloop AAs. At least 6+ hours of gameplay. I have a 2.5" LCD though, not the 3.5".
the 3.5 will differ, i have seen some that improved batt life and some that didnt
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334.0&attach=3728&image)
https://i.imgur.com/8XHtQN7.jpg
Images in older posts are missing or have been replaced with girls and the question seems to come up often.
So I stole the image from another side.
Step 1: make sure your TE or GT is working fine. Recap as well, old cap will go bad and it will ruin the board.
Step 2: take out game, batteries, power cable, TV tuner, etc.
Step 3: take it apart to get the mainboard.
Step 4: Find the chip HuC6260 and locate the pin numbering (or count from pin 1) double check you have the right pin!!
Step 5: desolder and life all the pins as indicated in the picture.
Step 6: connect pin 19, 25, 29,32, and 39 to one wire, this will go to LCD module for better ground shielding.
Step 7: connect the remaining 4 pins to resistors. Tie the other end of resistor to one common point connected to the base of any basic NPN transistor
Step 8: solder collector of the transistor to 5v source.
Step 9: emitter is composite video, connect that to a 75 ohms (or 2x 150 ohms in parallel as 75 is not commonly found locally) and the other end of the resistor to LCD's video input
Step 10: Get power to LCD module. Check docs if it takes 5v or needs higher unregulated voltage.
Step 11: double, triple, and quadruple check everything to ensure there's no short, bridged solder, or any problem.
Power it on and hope for the best.
optional, if you got larger LCD rather than 2.5", you will need to modify the front shell. Most people usually can get up to 3.5" LCD while still keeping the entire gut inside the TE or GT. Larger LCD is possible but you'd need to make a custom shell or housing to hold the LCD.
Feeling adventurous ? PSOne LCD, RGB connection, clamshell case (or flat like Nintendo 2DS), make it like a PC Engine LT for a lot less than $500.
I plan to get mine with 3.5" LCD and also to hack in the save SRAM. Tennokoe2 is cheap on eBay and it's just 2 chips that one needs to make it work, plus battery or fat capacitor save support for SRAM chip.
original
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7918&image)
Jul 19, 2013 - "av complete circuit"
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7920&image)
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/pcengine/express-gt-composite-t179.html
note that this thread started before mine, and eliminated the battery pack
this was before i figured out how to turn the encoder back on inside the HuC6260
Quote from: wilykat on 06/15/2015, 03:53 AMStep 2: take out game, batteries, power cable, TV tuner, etc.
Wilykat, I appreciate you stepping up to help, but that schematic and description is pretty insane. No one needs to be told to unplug their TV tuner.
Thanks steve for a schematic that doesn't burn my eyes.
What I'd really love to see is a writeup of how to modify the shell to fit a 3.5". If I could pull that part off cleanly, I could actually do this mod myself.
I just cut, saw, or file the opening until it's 3.5 in size. Then use hot glue to secure the screen to the shell from behind.
Use the front plastic part/cover from your new screen to replace the old express one. Once again you will have to cut/file it down to fit.
thread i linked has the step pictures
Quote from: thesteve on 06/15/2015, 04:54 AMoriginal
(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7918&image)
I got in LCD for the mod. When I checked the video chip AMT630, it supported both composite and S-Video. So I was wondering if it'd make mod a bit easier or if I'd end up needing 2 transistors to amplify both Chroma and Luma ? If it can be easier, it may be worth going that way instead of the usual composite route. If not easier, I'll go composite route as it's hard to see difference between s-video and composite on a 3.5" LCD.
Too bad 3.5" LCD with analog RGB is virtually nonexistent. That would have been very easy mod since there are RGB connector for the original LCD.
I think it's worth it, go all the way with your LCD screen. If it has S-Video input, use it! Yeah, you'll need 2 transistors now to seperate the lines. Should be as easy as following Steve's circuit where after the 4.7k resistor for Luma/Y, you cut the line to the rest, add another transistor and 75 Ohm output resistor, but he'll tell ya for sure. Way worth it! Hell, I've been waiting for an LCD that'll take the raw RGB.
Quote from: wilykat on 07/17/2015, 01:42 PMQuote from: thesteve on 06/15/2015, 04:54 AM(?action=dlattach&topic=9334&attach=7918&image)
I got in LCD for the mod. When I checked the video chip AMT630, it supported both composite and S-Video. So I was wondering if it'd make mod a bit easier or if I'd end up needing 2 transistors to amplify both Chroma and Luma ? If it can be easier, it may be worth going that way instead of the usual composite route. If not easier, I'll go composite route as it's hard to see difference between s-video and composite on a 3.5" LCD.
Too bad 3.5" LCD with analog RGB is virtually nonexistent. That would have been very easy mod since there are RGB connector for the original LCD.
the only issue is those encoder chips would need the inputs enabled in software
you would need to edit their programming
I got mine modded and working with 3.5" LCD. Sadly the electronic part is easy, the hardest part is still to come: cutting up TE to accommodate 3.5" LCD. I flunked kindergarten level cutting and trimming and I am afraid of trimming my TE and not have wavy edge, uneven edge, or looking like it went a few round with Tazmania devil. I did remove the original lens cover (virtually scratch-free) and put it inside ziploc bag to protect it from any scratch.
I completed mine after some careful cutting with dremel. It seemed to work but it had a quirk: if I pressed on the middle like button or control pad, the image blanks out. I thought it was a loose wire and took it apart. Nothing I jiggled caused the image to blank out and when I put it back together, image never came back.
Took it apart, noticed the video board was very warm and touching metal. I put in a piece of paper under the video board and tried again, no picture, I know TE is working because the LED on my TED is flashing and reacting to button presses.
I cut the wire and used alligator clip to connect video and ground to a nearby TV, I got image. I think the video board may have been cooked by accidental short.
(https://i.imgur.com/Zj97uH6.png)
It was probably the same way that blew the fuse the first time. ](*,) so I got to wait a week for new AV stuff to come in.
So i attempted this mod over the weekend. I wish i had seen this thread before. It would have saved me a lot of headache on saturday trying to figure out how to cut the case.
I've only got one problem:
The image scrolls vertically on the LCD.
(https://i.imgur.com/7yi2ISrl.jpg)
Any idea what could be wrong ?
I'm using a BC548 rather than a 547.
LCD is shit
I had the same issue and this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/181529434603 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/181529434603) worked for mine.
Are you serious? Is it really the LCD or is it the controller board?
The LCD is glued in pretty tightly, so i'd like to avoid removing it
well the vert roll appears to be the controller board, but its not defective, just incompatable
A lot of those backup monitors are incompatible with low resolution.
Always test first before installing
Hm alright. My roommate has a controller board for the same monitor. I'll test it using his.
Quote from: turbokon on 10/27/2015, 09:34 PMAlways test first before installing
Yeah, i was just overconfident.
I have gone through this many times myself. The screens look the same on the outside but with different parts inside. So no good way to tell from looking at the unit if it will work or not before buying. I think I buy and return maybe 50% of all the screens I get. Just have to keep testing till you find a good one.
my last buy was 4 screens from the same listing
2 worked 2 didnt
returned the 2 and of the replacements 1 works 1 doesnt
Is there a way to test LCD before taking it apart? Hook it to a PCE/TG16 or other old systems with 240p composite output and run a game?
that works great
i tested them by hooking them to a DUO
sometimes the ones that dont work on the express still work on the nomad, so you want to test on something using the 6260 video source
Heres one I had bought. It has an add on which alows you to use a potentiometer for contrast or color.
http://www.buy-lcd.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=10133 (http://www.buy-lcd.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=10133)
Just ask for the P version.
Tested and works OK with composite.
This is a direct replacement for the 2.4" screen.
They also do a 4" version for the LT and a 3.5" too.
They do also have VGA versions but I've not tried those.
I was thinking that maybe it could be a RGBS.
So i tried it with a different controller board, but all i got was a white screen if the composite was connected
If it wasn't connected, i got a black screen/off
Does it have to do with how the stepdown is bypassed?
Should i just buy a new LCD?
Looks like it's not compatible. I would just change the display.
Order a new LCD and test before taking it apart so you can return it if you have to.
Crap. Does anyone have an LCD that they confirmed working?
Progress?
I connected the LCD controller board using a 12V psu, and it works. (only on its original lcd)
The image is noticeably less sharp than the scrolling one, but i might settle for it.
Does anybody know why it works with 12V input but not when the buck IC is bypassed? It must have something to do with other components requiring the 12V, but has anybody figured out how to bypass the 12V on this board specifically?
pmZ0QOBl.jpgMJGGOZEl.jpg
that board supplies VGH and VGL from the pulse on the bucking chip through a diode/cap multiplier
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/pcengine/express-gt-composite-t179-s10.html
pics showing how to make it work
Can you try tapping off the middle pin of the power switch? That is 8-9v unregulated power from either DC in jack or batteries. (middle pin is because NEC wired the switch a bit strange. When viewing the PCB with the switch solder spot up, left and middle are connected when the switch is "OFF" and middle and right is connected with switch is "ON", the right pin goes to the regulator circuit and middle is unregulated input.
If it still doesn't work, you got unlucky :( All the LCD I've tried always worked from either regulated 5v or from unregulated 8-9v
Wouldn't that reduce battery life? Maybe not dramatically
To turn down the 24V clockwise, that would mean turning it clockwise, right?
no CCW
read at the 22uf 35V cap
Quote from: wilykat on 10/29/2015, 05:33 PMCan you try tapping off the middle pin of the power switch? That is 8-9v unregulated power from either DC in jack or batteries. (middle pin is because NEC wired the switch a bit strange. When viewing the PCB with the switch solder spot up, left and middle are connected when the switch is "OFF" and middle and right is connected with switch is "ON", the right pin goes to the regulator circuit and middle is unregulated input.
If it still doesn't work, you got unlucky :( All the LCD I've tried always worked from either regulated 5v or from unregulated 8-9v
I've always just tapped the middle pin of the on/off switch for power as well. Never had any issues.
Got it working! Thanks for the help, steve.
It would't work from unregulated power. I connected 5V, ground, VGL, and VHL as shown in the thread steve referred me to
That was my thread on the other forum, from when I did that board
Yeah i noticed. Thanks
Got 3 new screens in the mail over the weekend. They work just fine but what's weird is that if you turn the brightness past 60 everything gets super bright out of nowhere. Meaning the brightness will go up gradually as it should from 0-60 and then bam super bright. Almost like someone turned the brightness up all the way. No change whatsoever from 60-100. Just as bright as possible from 60-100
Anyone ever come across any screens like that before? Any fix for it or is it just a bad design to where I should return them?
In all honesty 50 for the brightness seems good enough so I may decide to keep them. Just thought it was odd that when I tested them I couldn't go past 60 on the brightness level without being blinded.
You could try a resistor across the inner and outer pin of the pot
To change it from LOG to LIN or visa versa.
There are no potentiometers. Just push buttons that control the brightness, contrast, tint etc.....
Bummer.
You could try attenuating the composite video slightly using a half bridge resistor circuit.
Use a 100R multi turn pot and a fixed value of say 50R in series so it does not go any lower.
May work.
the issue is in the software
you could return them or not have the buttons showing
Console Repair/Mod Center => Topic started by: woshizyt on 02/27/2011, 11:21 PM