RIP to BT Garner of MindRec.com... He passed away early 2023 from health problems. BT was one of the top PCE homebrew developers and founder of the OG Turbo List, then PCECP.com. Condolences to family and friends.
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Messages - farankoshan

#1
Booted up Cadash today and missed seeing those pigs in the 1st cave... 🐷
#2
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTB HuCard sleeves
05/14/2022, 11:14 AM
I know that PCEWorks used to make replacement sleeves that worked really well in replacing those stickier old ones. May be worth checking out if they still carry them. 🤷🏻�♂️
#3
Quote from: NightWolve on 02/26/2018, 07:32 PMYou must match the capacitance value, but like he said, the max breakdown voltage can always be rated higher, the higher the better.

If the board runs at 5V, you should use a 16V rated cap, it'll be totally safe, can handle spikes, heat better, etc. I have seen TVs break simply because they used a 16V cap in the power supply to regulate 12V for the backlight screen lamps. The caps overheated and popped at the top. Always better to use a 35V cap on a 12V area, especially near a power supply since you've got all that heat from regulators and transformers.

The only downside is the cap will be bigger and more expensive the higher the rated breakdown voltage is. So if the space is there, use 35V if you can especially if you got cheap Chinese caps. No harm no foul, they'll just last so much longer.
Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/26/2018, 06:18 PMVoltage can be the same or above the rating needed. Meaning if the cap requires 16v you can use 16v,35v etc....you just can't go lower.
Thanks for these notes guys. Will keep that in mind. :) Big help!

However, although we can go out and buy 35v for virtually everything is space inside the console was no problem (or if availability of those caps wasn't a problem either), for peace of mind & reference, will Red Ghost ever update that capacitor list? He did a great job with the cap list on the PCE CD-ROM2 a while back. I used that and never looked back. :)

Just so we can have the actual values on hand so we know how much higher voltage ratings we can look for.
#4
Quote from: farankoshan on 02/26/2018, 12:36 PMHas anyone ever updated this thread with definitive voltage ratings for each capacitor?
I'm a little bit confused as to why some sites report differing ratings.

For example, Console5's list has nothing besides 6v or 16v. Is that accurate to say?
The site does sell a full capacitor set, including capacitors to improve the saving capability, as well as to help with a jailbar fix. But I'm unsure about values now.
Here: https://console5.com/wiki/Turbo_Duo

Meanwhile, GameDoctorHK has varying voltage ratings depending on the capacitor. Could be based on the original ratings that came factory-stock on the unit (but that's only a guess).
Here: http://gamedoctorhk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1143
I bring this concern up (and I would really appreciate anyone who can shed light on this) because I recently had my cd spindle stop spinning. Unsure what caused it to stop, but I just opted to do a full cap replacement. I followed the GameDoctorHK values, and though my HuCard slot works, my CD spindle and lens still refuse to work. Can a wrong voltage rating on a capacitor cause a malfunction like this?
#5
Has anyone ever updated this thread with definitive voltage ratings for each capacitor?
I'm a little bit confused as to why some sites report differing ratings.

For example, Console5's list has nothing besides 6v or 16v. Is that accurate to say?
The site does sell a full capacitor set, including capacitors to improve the saving capability, as well as to help with a jailbar fix. But I'm unsure about values now.
Here: https://console5.com/wiki/Turbo_Duo

Meanwhile, GameDoctorHK has varying voltage ratings depending on the capacitor. Could be based on the original ratings that came factory-stock on the unit (but that's only a guess).
Here: http://gamedoctorhk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1143
#6
I also have a similar problem because my PCE Duo no longer spins as well. I had the whole board recapped thinking it would help, but so far, still no spin.

I don't know where to begin. :( Any help would be most appreciated. At least a sort of process to rule whatever reason out...

My HuCard games work fine, but the CD spindle just won't spin. We tried to attach simple AA battery to the contacts of the motor via some jumper wires and it spun. Does that shed light on anything guys?
#7
Hi! Just noticed... are the photos hosted on photobucket? Does this mean to be able to view the photos, we need to pay USD$10 with photobucket?

Just wanted to make sure my browser wasn't screwing up.
#8
Cannot wait!! Please update when these go live!
#9
An older thread helped me replace caps and it helped with sound, video and load times to an extent. If after all that, you may need to replace the lens itself. But do try these options out and check back with updates so we can help. ;)
#10
I did as all of you suggested and BOOM... true, unadulterated, clear & crisp RGB! The sound comes through clear and the pixels have ZERO bleeding. ;)

It appears that not grounding the 8pin DIN through the two extra holes & soldering them down makes a world of difference. Aside from the 5 main pins on the 8pin DIN, those 2 extra pins (which I took from the 5pin DIN, and swapped them onto the 8pin DIN) instantly cleaned up the picture and created no problems in the visual department. :)

I'm not too good with circuitry (my friend solders and we work together) but thanks to this discussion, I got my results and who knows? Maybe there may be another person who ends up as lost as me and may need to find this thread to lead the way to clearer gaming!

Thanks for all your help, everyone! I booted up Parodius Da! this morning and couldn't believe how much detail I missed simply using composite signals. :) The PCE is new again!
#11
Quote from: thesteve on 07/30/2015, 11:34 PMthe noise is a ground discrepancy
you need to jump from the din ground to the board ground
dont know why your getting bleed
Hey thesteve!

What do you mean "jump from"? Sorry. Perpetual circuit noob here. :p

Does my photo do enough justice to show why there is a bleed?
#12
Quote from: mickcris on 07/30/2015, 11:11 PMyou need the metal part from the din5 jack.  you can use the plastic piece from either one.
Got it. Will remove the plastic cover  (with metal part) from the 5pin DIN, and transfer it over to the 8pin. :) Will report back with results. :)
#13
Quote from: mickcris on 07/30/2015, 11:06 PMyes.  i already cut the "tiptoes".  you just need the ground pin part from the DIN5 jack.  You can either just put those pins in the bottom piece or use the whole bottom part from the DIN5 jack.  The bottom plastic part is the same on both jacks.

the one i sent with the jack is the one you would have to drill holes for as its different.
I see. Okay, so just to be clear, if I swap out the bottom plastic part (plastic part from 5pin DIN, to be put on the 8pin DIN) I don't need the metal thingy, nor do I need to drill holes anymore?
#14
Quote from: mickcris on 07/30/2015, 10:48 PMhere is the easy way to do the ground pins if you still have the DIN5 jack that you removed:
start at 2:00 as it wont let me put the link in there like that.
The cutting of the tiptoes explains using the DIN5 cover on the 8pin DIN. But will I still use the metal thingy that you sent with the pack?
#15
Quote from: SephirothTNH on 07/30/2015, 10:36 PMYou could try tapping 5v from somewhere else.  I've had to change 5v sources in the occasional mod to clean up video. 
(Looking at the first photo) By 5v, you mean somewhere else besides tapping it from the D4364G-12L chip? Any suggestions?
#16
Quote from: mickcris on 07/30/2015, 10:24 PMI was wondering what RGB upscaler are you using?  Is it possible your other cables are wired for JP21?  Really the only thing I can think of as to why the cable isnt working.

Also like i suggested, you should install the ground pins on the DIN jack if you still have the old DIN5 port.  Not sure if its the issue, but it would be better if they were there.
You're right, I needed the SCART to be wired JP21, since I pass it through a framemeister. So that solves the last issue on my list. My bad, I probably should've requested for a JP21 wired SCART. I assumed that all SCART RGB cables are created equal. Well, I have an extra cable right here then. (If anyone wants it, it's unused and I can ship it over at cost+shipping). Happy to have cleared that matter, mickcris!

Regarding the metal ground pins, does anyone here have a step-by-step with photos? I'm not very good with these things (it's amazing I even got a signal out of this mod. Woohoo!) And is there a "less drastic way" to do it? I remember there being another way that involves putting the 8pin DIN on it's side and wiring the pins to the back. I don't have a drill and would much rather keep the board as close to the way it is as possible. :) Any help?
#17
I picked up an RGB amp + 8Pin DIN + SCART cable from mickcris and needed some help with it. I'm pretty convinced that mickcris sells exceptionally well made stuff, so I'm assuming the problem may be on my end.

So I followed the standard procedure and tapped RGB from the HuC6260 chip, wired the signal through the provided RGB amp, and coursed the signal through to the 8Pin DIN I also got from mickcris. (See below)

IMG

The signal comes through, but these are my problems:

INTERFERENCE: there seems to be a bit of scrolling interference. Like snowy waves scrolling up and down. I'm using a switching generic power adaptor that outputs 9v, and I'm aware that the PAD-124 (official NEC power supply) needed 10v. I just ordered a PAD-124 and when it arrives, i can check back to be sure. But does anyone know if there may be another fix besides the power supply? Anyone had a similar problem?

IMG

GHOSTING: There also seems to be some problems with the integrity and clarity of the pixels? I also have a SEGA MD/Genesis which outputs in RGB, and comparing both MD & PCE Duo seems like night and day. Let me first say that I know that composite is much worse and the signal I get from RGB is much cleaner, so I'm not being ungrateful for this newfound clarity - RGB is amazing. But what I get on the Sega MD is pixel-perfect sharpness and incredible clarity, nearly like playing on an emulator into a monitor. The PCE Duo seems "ghostier" and I want to know if it's that: 1. The PCE's image processing for RGB isn't as good as the MD; 2. Are there capacitors on the board that need to be replaced (I already did a cap replacement on many of these old caps)?; 3. Could it be something with the components from mickcris?

IMG

SCART CABLE PROBLEMS: So I followed the photos and instructions given by mickcris and wired the right pins as properly as I could, but for some reason the SCART cable I got from mickcris doesn't work. I used another SCART cable I purchase from an eBay seller (retro_console_accessories) who provided me with my Sega MD/Genesis SCART cable. That cable works, and so I assume that the RGB pinout aligns with mickcris' pinout in his instructions. Sound and image both come out fine (with the noise interference of course). But it seems like the SCART cable from mickcris won't work. I followed his B-G-R label (see the 1st photo) from the instructions, so it's strange that another seller's SCART works, but his doesn't. Any help with possible differences in RGB 8pin DIN layout?

Any help would be most appreciated. Mickcris has been very helpful thus far, and he is a trusted member of this community. He advised me to post it here to get a discussion going and possibly find out where the problem lies through discussion. Thanks, everyone!!
#18
Any word yet on the RGB amp?  :D

Would you be selling these amps already built & ready to be "installed"?
#19
Happy New Year, Happy whatsit and everything else...

Just wondering if anyone has a manual available?
#20
Any possible leads, guys? :)
#21
Hello everyone!!

I'm in need of a manual for CD DENJIN - ROCKABILLY PARADISE (PCE).

For reference, this is the game:
IMG

It doesn't need to be in perfect condition. Just a decent copy will be fine.
If anyone has a copy lying around, please send me a pm!

Thanks so much! 8)
#22
Quote from: esteban on 04/12/2013, 04:58 PMHe deserves this game for ripping the chiptune from Hudson's iOS TG-16 emulator.  :pcgs:
Hahahaha! I remember doing that! Feels like such a long time ago, now that I think about it.. :p

Quote from: jperryss on 04/12/2013, 04:55 PMFirst post updated with results. farankoshan, PM me to claim your prize!
Thank you so so so much jperryss for hosting this little raffle! First raffle win for me on the forums! Honestly, I've never actually won a raffle in my life... :) Feels good. Time and time again, I continue to appreciate all the work this forum & it's members do for the community.

Thanks again! Sending you a PM now... ;)
#23
I would say that it's easiest to be a collector for Genesis, than Turbo/PCE... but people on this community would probably say that the quality of games on the Turbo rival the Genesis/MD library any day.

Still it's a choice that takes into account both practicality, cost and overall preference.

*worth noting though, that although carts for MD and Genesis are easier to find (eBay is not too bad with loose Sega carts) than Hucards, if you want to move into CD-based media, the problems (& costs) arise for both.
#24
Who is this Sparky you speak of? :)
#25
Hmmm... Not yet. :)
#26
Any help guys?
#27
Please add me to the list. :)

May the spirit of Hudson's Bee bless and keep you always!
#28
I was able to score a Hucard of Neutopia II at a local Book•Off in Sapporo, Japan for just $5... Still can't understand a word though. :( Anyone willing to sell me their Neutopia I, at least?
#29
Hey everyone!

I'm currently looking for a New Adventure Island manual (TG-16), and have been for several years now. eBay tends to inflate these quite a bit, and I'd much rather find one from people I sort of know better. I've (mostly) been happy with all the purchases I've made on items from the members, so I want to try to see if I can find one here.  :)

I do have the TurboChip already, and have owned this since I bought it as a kid. All I'm looking for is the manual.

Payment will be made via PayPal.
Delivery can be to either New York, US, or to Manila, Philippines. Seller's choice of the two as whichever is more convenient.

More details to follow when an offer presents itself.

For any questions, please post here, or message me directly for any offers or further inquiries.
Thanks to the mods & everyone again for allowing the post!
#30
Alright. And I guess as long as Wii's Virtual Console is still available, it serves as a cheaper way to enjoy overpriced classics. :) I'm still in the market of finding the games.. :)
#31
Quote from: Bardoly on 02/08/2013, 03:43 PMA local used video game store still has a copy of Neutopia (for $25.00+tax, I believe), but I believe that it's only the game and (correct & original) jewel case with no manual.  If you want me to pick it up for you the next time that I'm out there, I'd be willing to get it to you for exact cost+exact shipping, or you could call the store directly.  I haven't really seen it go for much cheaper.  As far as Neutopia II goes, I haven't seen a game w/manual go for under $50 in quite a while.  :(
I appreciate the offer. Really nice of you to offer to do that. :) I'll save you the trouble by trying to contact them directly. Thanks again!

Quote from: guest on 02/08/2013, 03:58 PMI recently picked up the PCE version of Neutopia II because the US version is so expensive these days.
Yeah, I've dangled the possibility in front of me many times... But without ANY knowledge of Japanese, is it playable and still as enjoyable as the English release?
#32
But even without component, the AV mod illustrated by the forum members here works like a charm. ;)
#34
Hello everyone!

I'm currently in the market for a copy of Neutopia [TG-16] and Neutopia 2 [TG-16]. I refuse to be gouged on eBay (>$38), so I wanted first to check here from people I trust (most of them, at least :wink: ).

So if any of you have a copy of these games, with at least the CD case and manual, please post back here or send me a personal/direct message with an offer. I'm a reasonable guy (as some people here who've dealt with me can attest to) so as long as the price and terms are fine, I'll be happy to deal with you. :)

Delivery to: NEW YORK, US (zip:11377) or MANILA, PHILIPPINES (zip:1219)
 (whichever is cheaper or more convenient overall)

Payment Terms: Paypal (upon mutual agreement of the sale + shipping price).

Hope to hear from anyone who might be able to help.

Cheers! O:)
#35
Please add me in this very generous auction! ;)
#36
Sign me up, please! :)
#37
Hey! Who are you calling overly-optimistic!

.. :)
#38
Ok, put me down for this, please. ;)
#39
Quote from: BigusSchmuck on 05/07/2012, 07:25 PMTalk about necroposting. :P
Hahahaha! I know! But, hey, You never know. :p
#40
Quote from: guest on 05/10/2012, 11:31 PMThe first one.  "Ghost Warrior" and "Spirit Soldier" are very similar translations. :)
Thanks! (adding Seirei Senshi Spriggan to PCE bucket list) :)
#41
Quote from: esteban on 04/27/2012, 08:17 AMS
Quote from: farankoshan on 04/27/2012, 12:17 AM
Quote from: esteban on 03/01/2005, 05:58 PM...3. Spriggan Ghost Warrior
Can someone link an image of the cover art? I've NEVER heard, read, or seen this game... I'm familiar only with the other 2 Spriggan games. If it's worth it, I would like to keep it on my lookout list. What does it look like? Does it have a japanese name?
I am sorry we (I) got your hopes up: Spriggan (PCE) was often referred to as "Ghost Warrior Spriggan" or "Spirit Soldier Spriggan" here in the North American publications.

There are only two games in the PCE Spriggan series.  IMG
Just to eliminate any mixups, which one is the alleged Ghost Warrior Spriggan?

Do you mean this (SEIREI SENSHI SPRIGGAN)?
COVER-Spriggan.jpg

Or this (SPRIGGAN MARK 2)?
2157983-box_mk_2.jpg
https://www.giantbomb.com/spriggan-mark-2/3030-17903/
#42
Off-Topic / Re: Happy Birthday BlueBMW!!!
05/07/2012, 11:52 PM
BlueBMW's threads & posts have helped me do the ff:
- fix a PC-Engine GT video & sound problem;
- remedy a TurboExpress sound issue;
- revive a Super CD-ROM2;
- decide on definitive ports of arcade games (whether PCE or not);
- gain the confidence to tinker & try to fix, with a whole forum to help back me up & offer advice;
- believe that generous people exist in the world (raffling whole lots, rare games & cleaned & refurbished units).

Happy Birthday, Blue!
Hope this forum has given you as much as you have given the forum.
You are one of the many reasons why this community remains one of the best hubs for NEC-love!
#43
Still available?
#44
Quote from: snickersbar on 10/06/2011, 05:53 AMU.S. Dungeon Explorer Hu and Manual =$15...
Sent you a PM. Does this mean Hu,manual & CASE as well?
#45
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Dungeon Explorer II
05/07/2012, 06:58 PM
Quote from: nectarsis on 02/19/2012, 02:26 PMUp for sale, PM me offers :)


Dungeon Explorer II    Pending

Camp California    SOLD



my PCE sale thread:

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=10870.0
Is DE II still available for sale?
#47
Congratu-freaking-lations!
Enjoy getting the (sapphire) boot! :p

Thanks to T2KFreeker for the generosity!
#48
Wow! That's a deal! (watch out for falling sarcasm.)

But, the one thing to remember about JP games is that though you may be able to boot it up using a freeloader, if the game needs a memory card, you can't use a US memory card. You need a JP formatted memory card.

Games like Mr. Driller Drill Land are affected by this and thus, become virtually unplayable without a way to save.
#49
Quote from: esteban on 03/01/2005, 05:58 PM...3. Spriggan Ghost Warrior
Can someone link an image of the cover art? I've NEVER heard, read, or seen this game... I'm familiar only with the other 2 Spriggan games. If it's worth it, I would like to keep it on my lookout list. What does it look like? Does it have a japanese name?
#50
Quote from: PunkCryborg on 04/23/2012, 09:31 PM
Quote from: Lilgrafx on 04/23/2012, 09:12 PM
Quote from: jperryss on 04/23/2012, 06:16 PMBlazing Lazers, trying to finally clear it once and for all.
A worth challenge, that I still haven't completed :(
Don't shoot at the first boss at all and let him flee and you will find the game is a lot easier to clear after you do that little trick ;)
Really?! THIS WORKS! In all my years, I never knew... I'm going home now to try it out!!