@GTV reviews the Cosmic Fantasy 1-2 Switch collection by Edia, provides examples of the poor English editing/localization work. It's much worse for CF1. Rated "D" for disappointment, finding that TurboGrafx CF2 is better & while CF1's the real draw, Edia screwed it up...
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Messages - Frank_fjs

#1
Funny about the Master System not being popular in the US, it was huge in Australia and a lot cheaper than the NES, both for the console and especially games.
#3
+1 to what NightWolve mentions above.

I had the same issue and re-greasing the poles solved it.

I have a hunch that the new lenses that people are fitting to Duo's are a lot more sensitive than the original part as this issue seems to be popping up a lot lately.
#4
Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread
01/11/2013, 10:53 AM
Have never seen or heard of 'The Dalton's' so I had no chance of guessing it. Asterix I should have been able to get.
#5
So are you this eBay seller and is this your way of promoting your own goods for sale? If so no-one here will care, just come out with it.

Other than that, if you like his prices and want to buy local go for it, what do you need from us?
#6
Sweet man, loads of fun to be had.
#7
I order shit from Japan all the time, even with basic SAL shipping it only takes 10 days to get here.
#8
Wow that SF tip is a great one, thanks! Will have to try it out...
#9
It does have a really cool intro though. :)
#10
He's not selling a game label/sticker, he's selling a price or some other form of sticker that was thrown on by a store/retailer at some point.
#12
General Gaming / Re: Wii soft modding
01/06/2013, 09:44 PM
Sounds like it's trying to download the file via an internet connection and the connection isn't working. Is your Wii online? If not, you will need to download the wad from your PC and transfer to your Wii SD card.
#13
General Gaming / Re: Wii soft modding
01/05/2013, 06:32 AM
Re imports, AFAIK yes it does but I haven't tried it myself. The USB loader programs have options for loading imports. I can play images of Wii games from any region just fine but have never tried with a real copy of a game.
#14
Quote from: Fatality on 01/05/2013, 04:07 AMSpeaking of the Duo-R can anybody let me know if the Super Grafx uses the same ac adapter and Av cables as the PC Engine Duo-R? Thanks
Different PSU, same AV cables.

PSU specs as follows:

PAD-113   
9V DC 800mA   
(+)----(o----(-)   
Outer Diameter: 5.5mm | Inner Diameter: 3.1mm
#15
General Gaming / Re: Wii soft modding
01/05/2013, 05:56 AM
Quote from: Raizen1984 on 01/05/2013, 02:55 AMWiiMednafen runs PC Engine games very well!  I can't seem to get the games to load in RetroArch Wii for some reason
I was pleasantly surprised by the PCE emulation in Mednafen too, very happy that CD games run smoothly. I had previously been using HugoWii which has loads of little problems that always annoyed me so I'm glad this thread popped up and inspired me to give Mednafen a go.

I couldn't get anything going in RetroArch either but I didn't really try very hard. I was put off my the front end and the fact that it made a mess of my roms folder by unzipping anything I tried to load.
#16
General Gaming / Re: Wii soft modding
01/04/2013, 08:51 AM
Soft modding your Wii (if done properly) doesn't restrict a single thing. Wiiware, VC, all the official channels etc all remain intact.

SDL Mame is a bit hit and miss but not too bad overall. Haven't tried the games you mentioned but it runs all my favourite games just fine.
#17
General Gaming / Re: Wii soft modding
01/04/2013, 03:11 AM
Why wait? I've had my Wii soft modded since the beginning and have never missed out on any official Nintendo crap. In fact having it soft modded is the only thing that keeps me using my Wii.
#18
Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread
01/03/2013, 10:30 PM
Yep, that would be the Sega Activator.

IMG

Think it worked by projecting infrared beams and if your hand/leg/dick intercepted said beam it would register as a control input.
#19
Sign me up please.

I have a copy so if I win I will raffle it off and keep the good times going. :)
#20
See my post here for some details on how to make a quick and crude AV cable for testing purposes: https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=12775.msg252214#msg252214
#21
I fully agree that these are great little units for cabs. I've been using one for years without issue, back when I got it they were around $12 landed from China. I power mine straight from an arcade PSU and they're easy to mount. Perfect level of amplification for a cab.

This is the one I have:

IMG

There's heaps of them out there but I've found the Lepai ones to be slightly better quality than most.
#22
I initially ventured in as it was a system that I had never seen in the flesh or played before, it never made its way to Australia. I recall reading about the TurboGrafx-16 in magazines as a child and being highly fascinated by it.

Fast forward a bit and when I decided I wanted to start collecting and playing older consoles the PC Engine was one of the very first items on my list. I went for the Japanese version as I fell in love with that white box of pure sex.

So the system arrived and I had no games and knowing nothing about the system I went out and bought the cheapest games possible, which turned out to be some of the crappiest too. Thankfully SFII was in the mix and after I secured some more fun games I was hooked and have never looked back.

Easily one of my favourite platforms to game on and collect for, it certainly receives a good chunk of my attention.

Here's a picture of the very first time I powered on my own PC Engine (after spending a long time getting it tuned in via RF lol):

IMG
#23
Quote from: turboswimbz on 12/28/2012, 08:19 AMThat frame is a thing of beauty! Every game room should have something like that! :D
Totally agree! I've actually got one of those digital frames (received it as a present) and have never used it, but I think I've just found a use for it after all. :)
#24
Sign me up please!

I actually had this in my watched list and was about to grab it as a xmas present to myself but you bought it a few hours before I had the chance to. :)
#25
All the SG-1000 games aside from the Basic carts work fine on a Master System. The colour palette is slightly different though as the Master System uses a different colour palette to the SG-1000/SC-3000.
#26
Quote from: esteban on 12/23/2012, 05:41 PM(B) Framed between two plates of glass (they sell this style of frame in most stores), the HuCARD is a delightful visual treat (ideally, you'd want this free-standing...say on your desk, so you could appreciate both sides of the glorious HuCARD).
Thanks! This is what I will do with Kung Fu. It's a crappy game, sure, but it's iconic to the PCE.
#27
I mainly play Mark III games but do have an SC-3000 which I use to muck around with Basic and play a few SG-1000 games.
#28
Well my games don't seem to want to come to life. I've filed, sanded, polished, rubbed, cleaned until my thumbs went numb and they refuse to display anything more than a white screen.

Question now is what to do with them? Might copy someone else's idea here and make a keyring out of one of them, not sure what to do with the other one, maybe throw it at a wall and see how long it takes to break.
#29
I received 2 dead HuCards recently which struck me as odd as I thought they were near indestructible. The games are Kung Fu and Vigilante and they both just display a white screen. I've cleaned the contacts thoroughly with isopropyl to no avail, also tried using an eraser with no joy. Tried them on 3 separate consoles so the problem is definitely within the cards.

Haven't tried anything more abrasive than that but might as well give it a go as I have nothing to lose and I've already replaced them with working copies. The dead copies are in immaculate condition so I was a bit bummed about having to replace them.
#30
Quote from: turbokon on 12/22/2012, 10:52 AMIt's say to leave it in the dock and switch it on, the dock switch, to charge. This seems odd to me. I would think it should default to charge when off and in docking station. You have to leave the system on to charge?
This isn't uncommon with these types of handhelds. They usually charge from a powered USB source and the console needs to be on to receive power from it.
#31
It appears that this is using FBA for its emulation, which doesn't come as a huge surprise. The door for adding more roms to this device are rapidly being pushed open!

I wonder what people who care about 'legally' owning roms think about the fact that Blaze didn't 'legally' license the emulation software?
#32
Tire:

- Slick: Best grip in dry conditions, sucks balls in wet conditions.
- Intermediate: Good all-rounder, acceptable performance in both wet and dry conditions but it doesn't excel in either one.
- Rain: Best grip in wet conditions, sucks balls in dry conditions.

Mission (am guessing they mean transmission):

- Hi Geared: Higher top speed at the cost of acceleration.
- Normal: A balance between Low and Hi gearing.
- Low Geared: Great acceleration at the cost of top speed.

Suspension:

- Hard: Gives the bike a more nimble and responsive feel, provides less grip through a corner.
- Normal: A balance between Hard and Soft suspension.
- Soft: Provides for better grip around a corner but feels more sluggish, not as quick to respond.

Engine:

- Peekee (guessing they mean peaky): Faster/higher revving, provides for a higher top speed.
- Normal: A balance between Peekee and Wide.
- Wide: Slower revving and less top speed. Smoother delivery of power.

Brake:

- Hard: Quick, aggressive braking.
- Normal: A balance between Hard and Soft braking.
- Soft: Smoother more gradual braking.

Preferred setup will be dependent on the track in question and what feels right for you.

E.g. For a high speed track like Austria with long straights and gentle corners, a setup like this will provide the most benefit:

Tyre: Slick
Mission: Hi geared
Suspension: Hard
Engine: Peekee
Brake: Soft
#33
I think it's a pretty cool game also.

The gearing effects acceleration and top speed.

Low gearing means better acceleration and bottom end torque at the sacrifice of top end torque and speed. A good setup for short courses with fewer straights and more corners.

Hi gearing gives you better top speed but weaker acceleration. Good for courses with long straights and gentle high speed corners.
#34
That is going to be so easy to hack.

There's an open sourced handheld called the GCW that runs a modified version of Linux created for handhelds (Open Dingux) and it's using the exact same CPU. The benefit of this is that there's already an OS and emulators ready to go and most likely fully compatible with this Neo device after some recompiling and modifications to suit the LCD.
#35
I never ordered from them as their shipping to Australia was ridiculous, close to $30!

I grabbed one for $6 landed from eBay and it works great, and is a little longer than the monoprice cables.
#36
I had the same problem. In my case cleaning the lens and lubricating the tracks solved it.

Another thing I discovered is that my Duo-R is very sensitive to vibration, the sound from my TV speakers was enough to mess with it. So place it on a firm, level surface that's free from vibration.

P.s. Mine had a new lens fitted and still exhibited the problem.
#37
One thing to consider is that arcade PCB collecting is an entirely different ballgame to console collecting. PCB's are a lot more fragile and tend to break down very often, so you'll definitely want a decent soldering iron and some basic diagnostic tools at your disposal. They're also more expensive to ship and difficult to store.
#38
Plenty of SGX love, very little money this time of year. :)
#39
I've got an LED like that in my NES, it actually annoys me a little as it's a little distracting whilst playing. :)
#40
I still don't get it. $200 for a cheaply made Blaze handheld?

I bought this 3 years ago brand new for $50. It emulates Neo Geo, PC Engine (Hu and CD), NES, SNES, FDS, Game Boy, Master System, Game Gear, Mega Drive, Mega-CD, CPS1, CPS2, Mame, 2600, Lynx, C64, plus many more. It has save states, full settings control for each emu, TV out, FM radio, MP3 and video playback, sound recorder, picture viewer, Flash and PDF viewers, the list goes on. 8 hours battery life with solid use, rechargeable via USB, 4GB of built in storage expandable via SD, oh and you can throw any rom you like on there.

IMG
#41
I'm not aware of any that accept USB, most seem to use the Neo Geo DB15 pin connector. Some also use Mega Drive controllers and others allow you to wire up your own inputs with arcade sticks/buttons via screw terminals.
#42
Sounds like you need a supergun of some sort. Do you have a budget in mind? You can get a basic and cheap Supergun for under $50 which will allow you to power Jamma based PCB's, extract audio and video from them and plug in a controller of sorts. They usually require a PC power supply, TV and controller(s) to accompany them.

At the other end of the scale, you can spend $200 and up for an enclosed supergun that includes joysticks and only requires a TV to plug it into.
#43
I have for sale a copy of Power Dolls FX in great condition.

Price: $15

Shipping: $6.60 for Australian residents | $13.70 to the USA via regular Airmail

IMG

IMG

IMG

IMG
#44
On a Duo console it makes no difference, either card will perform identically, so by all means grab the cheaper Duo card.

You only need a Pro for systems lacking built in RAM, such as the briefcase setup.
#45
Quote from: thesteve on 12/17/2012, 03:42 AMleave it to the judgement of those involved
My sentiments entirely.
#46
You can use an old brand of disk called Maxell Quick Disks, they require slight modification to work but can still be bought new to this day.

You can dump disks to a ROM file on your PC or dub disk to disk with various hardware mods and cables.
#47
Regular Famicom controller cables are also short as hell, even the third party controllers that you can use have short controller cables. :(

You can use the AES extension cables though, or do what I do and sit with the console in your lap. :)
#48
It's only the original belts that turned to tar after a few years, replacement belts should last a lot longer, I'd speculate at least 10 years if not longer.

Replacing the belt is very straight forward and calibrating the head isn't a big deal once you know what you're doing. I think problems arise as there's a lot of inaccurate information on the net, which is understandable given the lack of technical information available. I see videos of people messing with the hub and the spindle and cringe.

Providing it hasn't previously been interfered with I can fit a new belt and calibrate the drive to read any good disk with 100% reliability in under 30 minutes. The longest part is cleaning off all the melted residue from the old belt.
#49
Quote from: guest on 12/16/2012, 10:17 AMI am very interested in buying a Twin Famicom. That seems like my best option for me. Any point in getting the Zelda games for it?
Yeah, the Twins are great. It's pretty cool having everything built into the one unit running off a single power supply and not having to worry about a RAM adapter. They're heavy bastards though so shipping is usually costly but probably no worse than grabbing a Famicom console and Disk System console separately.

As I'm sure you're aware the original belts on the disk drive were poorly manufactured and haven't stood the test of time, but replacing them and re-calibrating the head is rather easy.

Re Zelda, I can't say if it's worth grabbing or not, depends on if you enjoy the game or not. The FDS version has better audio and the ability to save progress directly to the disk if that tempts you.
#50
Quote from: guest on 12/15/2012, 06:31 PMMy old crappy tv uses RF for my Japanese SG-1000. Would a famicom work then too?
More than likely, worth a shot anyhow.

Re console performance...

The original Famicom's naturally look the worst in stock form due to only outputting an RF signal. The Twin has the best stock AV output in my opinion, the AV's have a little bit of interference.

The original Famicom's mix the enhanced audio very well. The Twin's also have good sound mixing and sound a little clearer due to a filter cap being used. The AV Famicom's don't mix the sound well at all, you can barely hear enhanced audio, so a mod is required to fix this if you care about it.

P.s. The FDS adds an additional sound channel/chip and some cart games have audio enhancement chips built into them.