Thanks! Monday morning bump! Someone give this little model 3 a good home!
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PC-FX Localization for Team Innocent is released, a pre-Christmas gift!! In a twist, it feels like the NEC PC-FX got more attention in 2024 than any other time I can remember! Caveat: The localizers consider the "v0.9" patch a BETA as it still faces technical hurdles to eventually subtitle the FMV scenes, but they consider it very much playable. |
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Quote from: Muyfa666 on 04/23/2014, 10:22 AMBurnt Lasagna: did you ever get around to fix the two audio clips from Death and Dracula?I was wondering this too.
Don't want to sound ungrateful, just wondering if it could be fixed?
Quote from: Sadler on 04/14/2014, 05:11 PMI really, really want this, but $320 is a bit steep for me right now. Could we work out a trade + $ of some sort? I've got some duplicate games and a broken TE I could throw inSorry, I'm pretty set with a RGB modded Duo-R and a Turbo Everdrive. I'm rarely on the go, which makes the Express redundant for me.
Quote from: wolfman on 02/27/2014, 04:33 PMBuy @ rinkya a bunch of games + your card + hardware from the same seller within a day and you´ll get a good price.Already have a duo with an Ave 6 pad and multitap with a everdrive. I just need the card, so this is a no go for me.
Quote from: guest on 02/28/2014, 11:14 AMThis was for the Duo - 40 for the card and 20 shipped. They didn't offer me any other shipping option. It looks like their prices are reflective of eBays prices, as I asked about an additional avenue 6 pad and they came at me with 35 plus shipping.Quote from: lastcallhall on 02/25/2014, 11:23 AMSo, arcadegear is charging $60 for the card shipped to the states...For the cheap Arcade Card Duo, not the way more expensive Arcade Card Pro? At what shipping option (SAL, Airmail, EMS)?





Quote from: thesteve on 02/24/2012, 09:00 PMas i said your resistance will vary depending on the transistor usedYep, I had also wanted to test the signal with 220 or 330 ohms to see the difference. Thanks to Keith Courage for testing out the 200 ohm range. Still, I may get a variable resistor to play with the color a bit without having to destroy the circuit every time.
Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/22/2012, 12:42 AMHa yeah, I just figured that out. I just spoke with the steve. I was looking at the completely wrong diagram online. http://jrok.com/hardware/RGB_diagrams/video_output_wiring_v31.jpgWhere did you put yours? I've been looking over my Duo-R and can't decide on a location.
I got it all wired up nicely now. Even made a nice mounting place for it on my DUO-r. Thanks again steve.
Quote from: BlueBMW on 02/06/2012, 08:00 PMYeah, that was ordered today, as well.Quote from: lastcallhall on 02/06/2012, 07:51 PMI havent seen the need to recap the R systems yet... not to say it wont start to have problems eventually though. I'd try and adjust your laser first. VR101-105 are your best bet, the adjuster on the laser should be a last resort. You may just need a new laser.Quote from: thesteve on 02/05/2012, 03:29 AMthe black duo has a very solid board, the -R not so greatI was actually looking at my Duo-R last night and decided I should probably replace all the caps as a precautionary measure. Well, that and my laser won't read much of anything other than audio CDs. I've tried adjusting the pot on the laser assembly itself, but not the V101-V105 pots on the board. However, my board looks different than the one shown in the original post - I'm guessing it has to do with it being a Japanese -R instead of an american Duo. In any event, are there any specific areas where I should use extra caution? Recapping is nothing new to me - I've done dozens of Genesis systems and rarely did I run into a problem, I was just concerned with your comment.
Quote from: thesteve on 02/05/2012, 03:29 AMthe black duo has a very solid board, the -R not so greatI was actually looking at my Duo-R last night and decided I should probably replace all the caps as a precautionary measure. Well, that and my laser won't read much of anything other than audio CDs. I've tried adjusting the pot on the laser assembly itself, but not the V101-V105 pots on the board. However, my board looks different than the one shown in the original post - I'm guessing it has to do with it being a Japanese -R instead of an american Duo. In any event, are there any specific areas where I should use extra caution? Recapping is nothing new to me - I've done dozens of Genesis systems and rarely did I run into a problem, I was just concerned with your comment.
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 02/06/2012, 04:29 AMThese look to be taken from a capture card. Is all that jpeg compression noise coming from there, or can you reduce that somehow?They are indeed taken from a capture card. But notice the noise on the composite side over the s-video - that makes me think you can clean the composite signal up a bit. I'm out of parts for this stuff ATM, so I'll be submitting an order to digikey shortly to get everything I need to test this out a bit more.
Quote from: thesteve on 02/06/2012, 12:58 AMall the info is in a post above. (post 34)What he said.
thats how LastCallHall was able to do it






Quote from: TurboXray on 02/04/2012, 01:35 PMYeah, but C(chroma) line isn't clean. Some svideo input displays *might* have a problem with it (one TV I had was quite touchy about svideo spec. It wouldn't see chroma for SNES Y/C. It came out B/W). Why not just tap pins 20, 26, 33 directly and build the amp circuit for that, for C?This isn't for my Duo-R, this is for my TG-16. My Duo-R doesn't read burnt discs anyway...
lastcallhall: If I give you an ISO, can you burnt it and test/capture the screen for me?
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 02/03/2012, 04:21 PMYou could try a 2N3904, it's an NPN transistor like the S9013 is and it usually comes up as an S9013 substitute.
Quote from: thesteve on 02/03/2012, 04:53 PMany npn should work fineYou're both awesome.
rf mod pin2
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 02/03/2012, 03:50 PMWill do. Looks like I'm going to have to order the S9013 - All I have are 2SC945 and 2N3904 transistors lying around (unless one of those will work, but I'm guessing not).Quote from: lastcallhall on 02/03/2012, 03:18 PMWhat the hell, I'll give it a shot.Let me know how it goes, I'd love to give that mod a shot if it works!
Quote from: Jorge Nuno;446778Connect them in series and wire them like this:I purposely left the leg on the 10k resistor connected to composite uncut and when I connected it directly to the composite out, it stabilizes the picture, but the colors are all out of wack. I tried to take a picture and video, but it doesn't come out the way I see it in person. Anyway, I'm fairly sure that the CXA chip is the culprit, as I can get a solid sync signal from the EXP port, the C6260, and from the composite out on the EXP port, as well. So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to order a new CXA1645 from a stateside dealer and just redo the entire circuit. This may take some time, so I'll check back in once I get that done.Gnd --|===|--#--|===|--- CSync
680 | 10k
|
|---||---» LM1881 CVideo input
.1uF
LOL @ ASCII schematic :V
Take care, I edited this message like 4 times :p
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Quote from: grahf on 02/03/2012, 09:54 AMOh, crap.Quote from: lastcallhall on 02/02/2012, 11:07 PMNo raster signal when the output is applied directly to the composite out - it still flickers.lastcallhall, your descriptions of what you have going to each pin looks good. I compared it with the CXA1645 datasheet, and everything is right. The only possibility is that one of your chips is fried, which isn't that likely, or you mixed up a wire somewhere.
I even pulled the video signal from A23 on the EXP port and fed it straight to the composite out - no change.
You said you were getting composite video signal off of pin A23 on the expansion port. That's the wrong pin. Composite video is on pin A22. See this for the pinout:
http://www.gamesx.com/misctech/pcebp.php
Quote from: thesteve on 02/02/2012, 07:09 PMcheck if the output from the 1881 chip will give a raster (sync no-pic) on your monitor.OK, I'll take a look shortly, thanks.
another note when you have multiple grounds tie them together at the chip





Quote from: grahf on 02/02/2012, 06:57 AMGood luck, and if this still doesn't work please post pictures of what you have currently made.Good deal, that sounds workable. Thanks!
Quote from: thesteve on 02/02/2012, 12:17 AMthe 1645 needs the sync to be TTL levels (0 to 5V switching)OK, so what would you suggest I do? Is using an op amp for the sync going to be enough? Should I use the RGB/SYNC shown here:
you have about 180mV off the chip
Quote from: thesteve on 02/01/2012, 02:06 PMa good way to confirm the sync sig is to hook it to a tv.So, here's what I did, and my observations:
the tv will see the sync as a black picture (not rolling)
Quote from: thesteve on 01/31/2012, 06:59 PMthe 4558 is way too slow (tried it)Hm. I put a 0.1uF cap on the 1881 composite pin and it didn't change anything.
a transistor amp can be built that works well.
the 1881 also works, but must have a capacitor input, duo to the offset in the chip
Quote from: grahf on 01/16/2012, 10:16 AMThe connection diagram on page 2 is all you need. I used this chip for my Svideo boards I was making a few years ago. Also, you didn't mention anything about the 3.579 MHz frequency input the CXA1645 needs. I guess you picked up an oscillator? If you don't have that hooked up the circuit won't work. They are available in half size dip packages, like this:Yeah I have a half can oscillator on there.
Quote from: bust3dstr8 on 01/15/2012, 04:55 PMRset=ResetThat's what I thought, but I never assume anything in electronics, LOL.
Quote from: ogre on 01/10/2012, 11:19 PMTo get a good sync for the CXA use a LM1881N. Put the composite video through this circuit and it will output composite sync.http://www.national.com/images/pf/LM1881/00915001.pdf This is needed as the systems own c-sync does not put out a useable signal.Fantastic, thanks!