12/23/2024: Localization News - Team Innocent

PC-FX Localization for Team Innocent is released, a pre-Christmas gift!! In a twist, it feels like the NEC PC-FX got more attention in 2024 than any other time I can remember! Caveat: The localizers consider the "v0.9" patch a BETA as it still faces technical hurdles to eventually subtitle the FMV scenes, but they consider it very much playable.
github.com/TeamInnocent-EnglishPatchPCFX
x.com/DerekPascarella/PCFXNews
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Messages - lastcallhall

#51
Thanks! Monday morning bump! Someone give this little model 3 a good home!
#52
Up for sale are two items, both modded Genesis systems. First up is a Fully modded Genesis Model 1, which has the following mods:
-Component video out
-S-video out
-Composite video out
-Stereo audio out
-JP/US Region switch & widened cart slot
-10MHz overclock
-Halt switch
-Red LED replacement (it's much brighter now).

System comes with 1 set of AV wires, 1 ProPad6 controller, and a CIB copy of Super Street Fighter II. Unfortunately, I do not have a spare AC adapter to include, but this shouldn't be hard to find, if you don't already have one. Oh, one thing: for the component mod, i cranked up the resistance on the sync in line to eliminate the vertical bars that are present in the model 1 systems as best I could, but as a result, it sometimes takes the Genesis a couple seconds to sync up properly. Video of that is included.

Price shipped: SOLD!

Next up is a modded Model 3 Genesis. The mods done to this system are:

-S-video out
-Virtua Racing compatibility fix
-Game Genie fix
-RGB outputs restored.
-Red power LED added to front of system.

System comes with 1 set of AV wires, 1 s-video cable 1 6 button controller (the one that was originally included with the system), and AC adapter.

Price shipped: $75.00 OBO.

Pics:

IMG

IMG

IMG


Don't like the prices? Shoot me an offer, worst is that I'll say no! :) International buyers are also welcome to buy, but will have to pay the appropriate shipping. Any questions/requests/offers, please let me know! Thanks!
#53
Quote from: Muyfa666 on 04/23/2014, 10:22 AMBurnt Lasagna: did you ever get around to fix the two audio clips from Death and Dracula?

Don't want to sound ungrateful, just wondering if it could be fixed?
I was wondering this too. :)
#54
No takers, so I'm gonna hold onto it for now. Shutting it down...
#55
Quote from: Sadler on 04/14/2014, 05:11 PMI really, really want this, but $320 is a bit steep for me right now. Could we work out a trade + $ of some sort? I've got some duplicate games and a broken TE I could throw in :D
Sorry, I'm pretty set with a RGB modded Duo-R and a Turbo Everdrive. I'm rarely on the go, which makes the Express redundant for me.
#57
No takers? I thought at least one person would be interested...
#58
Not that I need to bump, but I wanted to make it known I've now cross-posted this on NA, SA, and Sega-16.
#59
No takers, shutting it down.
#60
Quote from: wolfman on 02/27/2014, 04:33 PMBuy @ rinkya a bunch of games + your card + hardware from the same seller within a day and you´ll get a good price.
Already have a duo with an Ave 6 pad and multitap with a everdrive. I just need the card, so this is a no go for me.

Quote from: guest on 02/28/2014, 11:14 AM
Quote from: lastcallhall on 02/25/2014, 11:23 AMSo, arcadegear is charging $60 for the card shipped to the states...
For the cheap Arcade Card Duo, not the way more expensive Arcade Card Pro? At what shipping option (SAL, Airmail, EMS)?
This was for the Duo - 40 for the card and 20 shipped. They didn't offer me any other shipping option. It looks like their prices are reflective of eBays prices, as I asked about an additional avenue 6 pad and they came at me with 35 plus shipping.
#61
Thanks, but I think I'll hold off for now...
#62
So, arcadegear is charging $60 for the card shipped to the states...

Kisaku, is that price shipped?
#63
ClodBusted: Thanks for the tip I just sent them an email.
Kisaku: If the Arcade Gear thing falls through I'll be sending you a PM. Thanks!
#64
Yeah, I saw their listing - 45.00+12.00 shipping.

These things were going for 30.00 a few months ago - what happened?
#65
Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB: Arcade Card Duo...
02/22/2014, 10:19 PM
...preferably one that's NOT 50 bucks or higher on eBay. Thanks!
#66
Hey all, I found a replacement adapter for my TE, but the system doesn't say if the center tip is positive or negative.  Does anyone know? Thanks!
#67
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTS: Junk Supergrafx
01/30/2014, 03:06 PM
Do you have any pics of the damage. It might be as easy as soldering a copper wire between the breaks if they're small enough.
#68
Thank you Arkhan - I sold my first Duo-R last Christmas along with a Turbo ED, and I've regretted it ever since. Great price too!
#69
Where are you shipping from?
#71
As it is with all my items, I hate to let this one go, but I have no other option, it seems (well, aside from turning tricks in the bad part of town, and no one wants to see that). For sale I have a TurboDuo-R system in great condition, along with a Turbo Everdrive (w/ SD card), an Avenue pad 6 controller, a 3 player HE multiplayer adapter, and a copy of Street Fighter II: Championship Edition in great condition as well. I am the 2nd owner of the system, but I have only used the system a handful of times for testing purposes. I have also recently installed a new CD rom lens, and it reads every game (legit and burned) perfectly and without issue.

Pics of the system/contents:

IMG

IMG

IMG

IMG

IMG

And finally, a video of the system in action:
I'd like to get $350.00 shipped for everything, or $365.00 shipped and insured, But I'm always open to reasonable offers. Thanks!!!
#72
Quote from: thesteve on 02/24/2012, 09:00 PMas i said your resistance will vary depending on the transistor used
Yep, I had also wanted to test the signal with 220 or 330 ohms to see the difference. Thanks to Keith Courage for testing out the 200 ohm range. Still, I may get a variable resistor to play with the color a bit without having to destroy the circuit every time.
#73
Awesome, thanks for the suggestions!
#74
Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/22/2012, 12:42 AMHa yeah, I just figured that out. I just spoke with the steve. I was looking at the completely wrong diagram online. http://jrok.com/hardware/RGB_diagrams/video_output_wiring_v31.jpg

I got it all wired up nicely now. Even made a nice mounting place for it on my DUO-r. Thanks again steve.
Where did you put yours? I've been looking over my Duo-R and can't decide on a location.
#75
Quote from: BlueBMW on 02/06/2012, 08:00 PM
Quote from: lastcallhall on 02/06/2012, 07:51 PM
Quote from: thesteve on 02/05/2012, 03:29 AMthe black duo has a very solid board, the -R not so great
I was actually looking at my Duo-R last night and decided I should probably replace all the caps as a precautionary measure. Well, that and my laser won't read much of anything other than audio CDs. I've tried adjusting the pot on the laser assembly itself, but not the V101-V105 pots on the board. However, my board looks different than the one shown in the original post - I'm guessing it has to do with it being a Japanese -R instead of an american Duo. In any event, are there any specific areas where I should use extra caution? Recapping is nothing new to me - I've done dozens of Genesis systems and rarely did I run into a problem, I was just concerned with your comment.
I havent seen the need to recap the R systems yet... not to say it wont start to have problems eventually though.  I'd try and adjust your laser first.  VR101-105 are your best bet,  the adjuster on the laser should be a last resort.  You may just need a new laser.
Yeah, that was ordered today, as well. :)
#76
Quote from: thesteve on 02/05/2012, 03:29 AMthe black duo has a very solid board, the -R not so great
I was actually looking at my Duo-R last night and decided I should probably replace all the caps as a precautionary measure. Well, that and my laser won't read much of anything other than audio CDs. I've tried adjusting the pot on the laser assembly itself, but not the V101-V105 pots on the board. However, my board looks different than the one shown in the original post - I'm guessing it has to do with it being a Japanese -R instead of an american Duo. In any event, are there any specific areas where I should use extra caution? Recapping is nothing new to me - I've done dozens of Genesis systems and rarely did I run into a problem, I was just concerned with your comment.
#77
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 02/06/2012, 04:29 AMThese look to be taken from a capture card. Is all that jpeg compression noise coming from there, or can you reduce that somehow?
They are indeed taken from a capture card. But notice the noise on the composite side over the s-video - that makes me think you can clean the composite signal up a bit. I'm out of parts for this stuff ATM, so I'll be submitting an order to digikey shortly to get everything I need to test this out a bit more.

RE: Cleaning and inverting pure Y/C - That would still be a relatively small circuit to construct, no? I wonder how much better the signal would look, and if it's worth it.
#78
Quote from: thesteve on 02/06/2012, 12:58 AMall the info is in a post above. (post 34)
thats how LastCallHall was able to do it
What he said. :D

Really, credit for this goes to thesteve, as he was the one who provided the info; I just had the system to use as a guinea pig.

Also, @thesteve: if you look at the comparison photos, especially the download package I linked to, you can see some noise when using composite. I just ran the composite signal straight from the EXP port; do you think if I placed a cap in series with the signal it would clean that up?
#79
100 Ohm. I may tinker with that value a bit, maybe a 220 or a 330 and see what the difference is.
#80
Photobucket resized the images, and they're too big to upload on here. If you know of a working file hosting site I'll up them there.

EDIT: Here you go:

File name: Comparison.zip File size: 1.65 MB
#81
Some comparison photos. S-video is on the left, composite (pulled from A23) is on the right:

IMG
IMG
IMG
IMG
IMG
IMG

(This one I may have picked a different court between the two)
IMG
#82
Quote from: TurboXray on 02/04/2012, 01:35 PMYeah, but C(chroma) line isn't clean. Some svideo input displays *might* have a problem with it (one TV I had was quite touchy about svideo spec. It wouldn't see chroma for SNES Y/C. It came out B/W). Why not just tap pins 20, 26, 33 directly and build the amp circuit for that, for C?  

lastcallhall: If I give you an ISO, can you burnt it and test/capture the screen for me?
This isn't for my Duo-R, this is for my TG-16. My Duo-R doesn't read burnt discs anyway... :(

EDIT: Is there somewhere I can see the C6260 pin values?
#83
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 02/03/2012, 04:21 PMYou could try a 2N3904, it's an NPN transistor like the S9013 is and it usually comes up as an S9013 substitute.
Quote from: thesteve on 02/03/2012, 04:53 PMany npn should work fine
rf mod pin2
You're both awesome.

It works! None of that fancy encoder stuff, you can pull it right off of the chip! As soon as I find my video capture card, I'll toss up some comparison pics. However, I can't tell if the chroma signal looks slightly washed out, or if that's just the way the games are meant to be seen. Either way, I'm sure there's a method to adjust it. :)

Thank you all so much!
#84
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 02/03/2012, 03:50 PM
Quote from: lastcallhall on 02/03/2012, 03:18 PMWhat the hell, I'll give it a shot. :)
Let me know how it goes, I'd love to give that mod a shot if it works!
Will do. Looks like I'm going to have to order the S9013 - All I have are 2SC945 and 2N3904 transistors lying around (unless one of those will work, but I'm guessing not).

Off to Digikey...

Also, @ TheSteve: which pin did you tap into on the RF modulator for video? I took my modulator off to make room for the other mods. Thanks!
#85
What the hell, I'll give it a shot. :)
#86
OK, it still doesn't work, but I have it narrowed down to the chip...

From another member on Sega-16, I constructed this circuit prior to running the composite signal into the LM1881:

Quote from: Jorge Nuno;446778Connect them in series and wire them like this:

Gnd --|===|--#--|===|--- CSync
       680   |   10k
             |
             |---||---» LM1881 CVideo input
                .1uF

LOL @ ASCII schematic :V

Take care, I edited this message like 4 times :p

[/FONT]
I purposely left the leg on the 10k resistor connected to composite uncut and when I connected it directly to the composite out, it stabilizes the picture, but the colors are all out of wack. I tried to take a picture and video, but it doesn't come out the way I see it in person. Anyway, I'm fairly sure that the CXA chip is the culprit, as I can get a solid sync signal from the EXP port, the C6260, and from the composite out on the EXP port, as well. So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to order a new CXA1645 from a stateside dealer and just redo the entire circuit. This may take some time, so I'll check back in once I get that done.
#87
Quote from: grahf on 02/03/2012, 09:54 AM
Quote from: lastcallhall on 02/02/2012, 11:07 PMNo raster signal when the output is applied directly to the composite out - it still flickers.

I even pulled the video signal from A23 on the EXP port and fed it straight to the composite out - no change.
lastcallhall, your descriptions of what you have going to each pin looks good. I compared it with the CXA1645 datasheet, and everything is right. The only possibility is that one of your chips is fried, which isn't that likely, or you mixed up a wire somewhere.
You said you were getting composite video signal off of pin A23 on the expansion port. That's the wrong pin. Composite video is on pin A22. See this for the pinout:
http://www.gamesx.com/misctech/pcebp.php
Oh, crap.

Someone on the Sega-16 forums said that something was probably overlooked. I'm tapping into the wrong signal from the EXP port...

I'll play with it now and see what I can do.
#88
No raster signal when the output is applied directly to the composite out - it still flickers.

I even pulled the video signal from A23 on the EXP port and fed it straight to the composite out - no change.
#89
Quote from: thesteve on 02/02/2012, 07:09 PMcheck if the output from the 1881 chip will give a raster (sync no-pic) on your monitor.
another note when you have multiple grounds tie them together at the chip
OK, I'll take a look shortly, thanks. :)
Also, I tied together several groups of ground @ the chip - there's something like 12 grounds on the unit and I got them down to four before tying them up to one on the way out...
#90
 :?

Still didn't work.

Here are some closeups of what I'm looking at:

Here's the LM1881. Solid green is video in from pin A23 on the EXP port, striped green is sync out, solid blue is 5V in and the two striped blue are tied together and are connected to ground.
IMG

Here's a shot of the voltage regulator. You can see the striped blue wire coming from the LM1881 to the center pin which is ground, along with another ground wire from the CXA1645, as well as the solid blue 5V wire from the LM1881, and the 5V line from the CXA1645 (Will show shortly) connected to voltage out, which should supply a 5V voltage to all components.
IMG

Here's the CXA1645 itself. Pin 1 is grounded, pins 2,3,&4 are RGB respectively, pin 5 is No Connection, pin 6 is connected to pin 3 of the oscillator (shown above the IC), pins 7, 12, & 19 are all tied together, and fed into pin 4 of the oscillator, which is connected to the voltage out on the regulator (shown in the previous pic). Pin 8 is no connection, pin 9 is grounded, and pin 10 is sync in. Pin 11 is no connection.
IMG

Bottom half of the 1645. Pin 13 is connected to a 47KOhm resistor and a 0.1uF capacitor, which are then each ran to ground. Pin 14 is connected to a 10uF capacitor connected to ground, while pins 15 and 16 are connected to a 75ohm resistor and a 220uF capacitor in series each, connected to chroma and luma respectively. Pin 17 has no connection. Pin 18 is connected to a 20kohm resistor out to ground. Pin 19 has been discussed earlier, pin 20 is also connected by a 75ohm resistor and 220uF capacitor in series out to composite out. Pins 21, 22, & 23 are not used for this circuit. Pin 24 is connected to ground.
IMG

Here's a shot of the ground wires all bundled together and fed into a single wire for organization's sake (note: my finger is on the composite out wire; the striped orange wire ABOVE my finger is connected to the bundle of wires running to ground:
IMG

So... here we are.
#91
Quote from: grahf on 02/02/2012, 06:57 AMGood luck, and if this still doesn't work please post pictures of what you have currently made.
Good deal, that sounds workable. Thanks!

Quick question, though - I'm doing this on an american TG-16, not my Duo. Would the video signal from VIDEO A23 on the EXP port suffice for pin 2 on the LM 1881?
#92
Quote from: thesteve on 02/02/2012, 12:17 AMthe 1645 needs the sync to be TTL levels (0 to 5V switching)
you have about 180mV off the chip
OK, so what would you suggest I do? Is using an op amp for the sync going to be enough? Should I use the RGB/SYNC shown here:

pce_rgb.jpg

then feed it into the chip?

I'm kinda lost right now and not sure which way to go.

I'd appreciate the help. :)
#93
Quote from: thesteve on 02/01/2012, 02:06 PMa good way to confirm the sync sig is to hook it to a tv.
the tv will see the sync as a black picture (not rolling)
So, here's what I did, and my observations:

I took the csync signal from the 6260 and added it to the composite out jack on the system and the image stabilized, albeit in B/W, which leads me to believe that the sync signal is good on the system, I just need to rework the CXA1645 circuit - something must have gotten messed up somewhere.

Parent/teacher conferences tonight, so I doubt I'll get to this until morning, but I'll figure it out...
#94
Quote from: thesteve on 01/31/2012, 06:59 PMthe 4558 is way too slow (tried it)
a transistor amp can be built that works well.
the 1881 also works, but must have a capacitor input, duo to the offset in the chip
Hm. I put a 0.1uF cap on the 1881 composite pin and it didn't change anything.

I think tomorrow or sometime soon, I'm going to rebuild the circuit from scratch. This can't be that complicated.

I just hate having to undo everything and start all over again... >=(
#95
An update...

This is cross-posted from Sega-16.com, so I apologize in advance for any repeats in information.

Long and short of it is, is that I bought a Duo-R a couple months back to replace my TG-16/Turbobooster combo I've had for a little over a year. Well, the Duo is in need of a CD lens replacement, so in the mean time I thought I'd try and mod the TG-16 for s-video and audio out, and see what comes of it.  I was able to look at the documentation shown over at GameSX.com, and from there took the proper signals and fed them into the CXA chip, composite signal included, on top of adding a region chip (Obey chip from BlueBMW and TheSteve from pcenginefx) and reset button. Once I had everything hooked up, I powered it on and got this:
As you can see, the sync signal seems to be trashed. I've done a little research and found the following:

1) The sync signal from C23 on the EXT port is labeled composite sync, as is pin 44 on the 6260 CPU of the TG-16
2) Knowing this, I purchased a LM1881 Video sync separator, and fed the a) the composite signal from the EXT port, b) the composite sync signal from the EXT port, and c) the composite sync signal from the 6260 into the chip (all at different times, obviously), hoping to get a clean sync signal out of any one of them, but no such luck. This was actually suggested by someone over on the PCEFX forums.
3) I have several 4558D OP AMPs lying around from an earlier CCAM mod attempt, but I'm not sure if I can use them to amplify this type of signal. even so, I don't have the slightest clue as to how to get it done. 

I'd really like to get this up and running (and sold...), but I seem to have hit a wall on this. I'm half tempted to take it to school so I can look at it all in a lab with proper test equipment, but if I could solve it prior to that, it would be even better. So what do you all think? Any help is always appreciated. Thanks!
#96
Quote from: grahf on 01/16/2012, 10:16 AMThe connection diagram on page 2 is all you need. I used this chip for my Svideo boards I was making a few years ago. Also, you didn't mention anything about the 3.579 MHz frequency input the CXA1645 needs. I guess you picked up an oscillator? If you don't have that hooked up the circuit won't work. They are available in half size dip packages, like this:

IMG
Yeah I have a half can oscillator on there.

Thanks for clearing the diagram up - I was going crazy trying to find a bi-polar 510pF capacitor. :)
#97
Quote from: bust3dstr8 on 01/15/2012, 04:55 PMRset=Reset 
That's what I thought, but I never assume anything in electronics, LOL. :)

Also, I was looking through the data sheet and saw that there's an application circuit diagram below the connection diagram. I'm thinking I should use the app circuit instead of the connection circuit?

Reference: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm1881.pdf
#98
So, I have a quick question: I understand the schematic except for the RSET pin. What is it, and what is it used for? More importantly, do I need this pin for what I want to accomplish? Thanks!
#99
That's what I'm hoping for... :)
#100
Quote from: ogre on 01/10/2012, 11:19 PMTo get a good sync for the CXA use a LM1881N. Put the composite video through this circuit and it will output composite sync.http://www.national.com/images/pf/LM1881/00915001.pdf This is needed as the systems own c-sync does not put out a useable signal.
Fantastic, thanks!