OMG! ZIRIA! ZIRIA!! ZIRIA!!! IT ACTUALLY HAPPENED!! 34 YEARS LATER!! The epic/legendary Tengai Makyou/Far East of Eden: Ziria JRPG has finally been localized! Supper the Subtitler struck again! Simply unstoppable, NOTHING can prevent him from TOTAL PCECD localization domination!!!! WHACHA GONNA DO BROTHER?!?!
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Topics - yxlplig

#1
I'm having trouble comprehending what is going on with this Duo R. I'm using Voultar's Duo RGB board (the older blue one). Up until recently I was using CVBS as sync, but I decided to hook up csync.

The moment I connected pin 44 on the 6260 to Voultar's board I started getting all kind of cracking and popping out of my left speaker--for whatever reason I decided to test the system at this point--the csync is not hooked up to the DIN at this point, so I know nothing I did at the DIN is causing this problem. I eventually finish the mod removing the DIN, disconnecting CVBS, and wiring csync to the DIN in its place, the problem persists.

I did all the basic checks, different TV/speakers, different ac adapter, different video cables. I verified ground continuity for the power cord, scart cable, and the modboard. I scrutinized every one of my joints and all the components on the modboard with a USB microscope and found no issues. I don't understand how anything I did would affect the audio circuit like this.

Does anyone have any ideas about what this could be? Also the RGB output has been flawless throughout all of this. There has never been a single issue with the picture quality.
#2
I've got this sealed copy of Dracula X. I suspect that it's a PCEWorks reprint because it's shrink wrapped instead of sealed with a y-fold. Was the Y-fold standard in Japan during this time period?

It looks so real otherwise. There's one line of text that is maybe slightly blurry, but I'd need to reference an original to say that it's not supposed to look that way. This is an impeccable forgery if it is one.
#3
It became necessary for me to find a solution to the sticky d-pad on this specific model of controller. I've had 4 of these now, and I've never seen one that didn't bind in 1 or 2 diagonal directions. So basically I just put some White Lithium Grease inside. I actually went a little heavy on the grease in this picture, you do not need to use a lot of it:

https://imgur.com/XGYYoJU

My controller works perfectly now. This fix should last a couple of years at least I would think. I believe the issue lies in the little nubs on the left and right side of the d-pad. They are too small and they allow the d-pad to be pulled into the opening which causes it to rub hard against the surface pointed out in the picture above.

There is a later revision of this controller (no model # on the back of it). The little nubs on the d-pad are much larger and it doesn't suffer this problem. However that particular d-pad seems to have a reduced range of motion and the whole controller just feels like cheap junk.

Hopefully someone else will find this helpful and some controllers can avoid the trash bin.
#4
So I was having issues with this Turbo Stick. I already fixed it, but I was hoping someone more educated could explain how I fixed it. The problem with this Turbo Stick was that it was not registering input for D-Pad right. Here's what I did:

1) Disassembled and plugged just the PCB into the console.

2) With one of the membrane switches in my fingers, I pressed it on each of the button pads. D-Pad right still was not registering inputs.

3) I began searching for damaged traces. Using a jumper wire, I bypassed the first trace between the button and the resistor. The button immediately began working. I've included pictures of the top and bottom of the board with the location of my jumper wire marked with red dots.

4) Here's the strange part, picking up the membrane switch again and using it on D-Pad right, the button all of a sudden functions normally. Does anyone understand why this happened?

https://imgur.com/a/DBX1J
#5
Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB Soldier Blade
06/12/2017, 07:39 AM
EDIT: All games found and purchased. Collection complete.

Hello, my friends. I am looking for a few more titles to finish off my NA Turbo collection, and at the moment I'm looking to get Soldier Blade (I might add the other 2 to the thread at a later date).

I'm not looking for perfection, but I'd like a manual that is not ripped/written on. And I'd prefer the game not to have a ton of scratches.



Since this is my first post, and since I've heard you guys can be weird about selling games like this, I feel the need to add this next part. When I say I'm completing my NA TurboGrafx-16 collection, I mean that I'm completing my own personal list of 23 games. I'm not a shelf collector. I always aim to complete 80%+ of the games I buy, and I've almost done that with the TG-16. I need to beat either Sinistron, JJ and Jeff, or max out the score counter in one of the Crush games.