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2/13/2025: Localization News - Cosmic Fantasy 3-4!

Rather earth-shattering news in the PC Engine / TurboGrafx-16 community: Cosmic Fantasy 3 & 4 has been officially localized to English by Edia 30 years later for the Switch! Hard to believe! I know their script quality is poor given the 1&2 port but still good to see.
nintendo.com/us/store/products/cosmic-fantasy-collection2-switch/
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#1
Hm, I don't trust ceramic capacitors as replacements for electrolytic models, it's above our pay grade... You shouldn't have done that.

I would clean the PCB thoroughly around the capacitor area, and check for trace damage. Check for corroded vias too.
#2
Hi guys,
I received my first CoreGrafx II last week, and it was working.
I opened it to check for capacitor leakage, and there was some, so I recapped everything with ceramic capacitors (except for the 470 µF one).
After the recap, I only got a solid pink/orange screen, nothing else :(
I then tried replacing the ceramic capacitors with standard electrolytic ones, but now I get no signal at all — my TV doesn't seem to recognize the console.
Since I'm not familiar with this console, does anyone have advice on where to start troubleshooting?
Thanks in advance!
#3
Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread
Last post by NightWolve - 03/30/2026, 02:23 PM
Adol from the Ys series enters the recent DLSS 5 off/on debate...
DLSSAdol.webp
#4
Hello, I got this unit that has corrupted graphics, and replace both memory chips, doublechecked all the connections with multimeter and everything seems fine but still has corrupted graphics, so maybe the problem wasn't the memory chips, so what else I should look for. Thanks.

IMG_4858.jpeg
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#5
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 03/11/2026, 08:22 PM
I talked to a friend about the usb-c pd and he had different luck with different boards. Apparently you have to buy a bunch and get one that works properly (he bought them on ali express). For me it just worked and now I'm considering make a 3D printed box for it and then get a transistor so it only outputs when the target voltage is reached, lets see how this goes. I'm also working on a wireless controller pcb (based on a rpi-pico + nrf24l01) so I'll keep you guys updated (I dislike the 8bitdo pce controller and prefer the original)
#6
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by NightWolve - 03/11/2026, 06:54 PM
Quote from: rfernov111 on 03/07/2026, 11:05 AMIn the meanwhile..Have you guys ever used a usb-c converter board to power your pc engine duo? I'm thinking about trying a circuit like this https://hackaday.io/project/187112-ch224k-usb-pd-decoy to get rid of the noise I get from my cheap PSU (my original one doesn't output a safe voltage anymore). I would love to know and maybe design a new board to replace the one the duo uses since its very easy to replace :)
Yeah, I tried to convert my SNES to USB 5VDC, but it was pretty bad. I didn't understand about the noise in modern PSUs, so there were weird artifacts in the video... I had no luck with that idea!

Interestingly, I just fixed an internal Pioneer CD/DVD reader (made in 2000) where the laser body and pole were stuck tight together, it couldn't slide at all! Got cooked, the grease was dried up, really bad! I had to grab the end of the pole after unscrewing it and twist it with a pair of pliers using a lot of pressure! Once it got slightly free, I'd spin/twist it back'n'forth, and then applied the fresh grease after cleaning with auto brake cleaner! It works again!

The tray mechanism is garbage though, can't be saved; some plastic parts holding the springs broke, so I had to throw it away. I'm just using it for development/testing of the new TurboRip version due to be released soon that finally supports INDEX 2-99/PREGAP scanning, so accurate CUE files/ripping for 100% NEC/PCE/PCFX discs, and it'll have BIN/CUE <> ISO/WAV/CUE conversion built in!
#7
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 03/11/2026, 06:25 PM
Ok, the grease arrived (not the lithium one though but the manufacturer told me this one just works - Implastec IGM 200). I cleaned all the plastic cogs and applied grease on the laser rails, the plastic cog and the motor plastic thingy. It didn't change a thing :(
I then took the laser out and did as Steve said: hold the base with a plier and then attempted to rotate the pot. It worked. I rotated the pot all the way CW and then rotated it slightly CCW. I tried again and it worked! Ys now reads flawlessly as well as every soundtrack on Rondo of Blood. I can't thank you guys enough :)

for anyone seeing this thread in the future, what helped me:
- Cleaning all the leaked capacitor fluid on the board. I spent lots of cotton swabs and Isopropyl alcohol to do that. Cleaned until my cotton swabs ended up clean.
- Redid the solder on a bunch of capacitors and tried to put them in a comfortable not-forcing position (most of them were pulling the pads of the board upwards)
- Used this board PCB (https://github.com/Board-Folk/PC-Engine-Duo) to check where the traces of everything led and redid the soldering points on loose capacitor that had their pads broken (using AWG 28)
- Adjusted the pots using a oscilloscope. First using an original disk and then using CDRs (Verbatim Digital Vinyl AZO)
- Cleaned the CD cogs and rails with Isopropyl and then put a new grease there (I couldn't buy lithium grease here but I bought a "mechanism grease" [Implastec IGM 200] [https://en.implastec.com.br/product/igm-200-graxa-branca-para-mecanismo]
- Broke the glue of the laser potentiometer as Steve said (hold the base with pliers and then rotate it slowly until it breaks free). Then I rotated the potentiometer CW until the end and rotated it CCW just a little (until it started reading my disks).
- My shitty PSU wasn't giving me enough current and was generating LOTS of noise so I tested a USB-C PD decoy that generates 9V/3A and it worked flawlessly. BE CAREFUL though as those will transfer 5V initially until the handshake can adjust to the proper voltage.
- Profit!
:aniki:
#8
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 03/07/2026, 11:05 AM
Thanks Steve, I'll try it out when the parts arrive (taking forever, even the grease)....In the meanwhile..Have you guys ever used a usb-c converter board to power your pc engine duo? I'm thinking about trying a circuit like this https://hackaday.io/project/187112-ch224k-usb-pd-decoy to get rid of the noise I get from my cheap PSU (my original one doesn't output a safe voltage anymore). I would love to know and maybe design a new board to replace the one the duo uses since its very easy to replace :)

Edit: I'm wondering if the 5V that is given initially by the cable will somewhat disrupt the pce but I dont think so (5V is too low for it?)

Edit2: One friend of mine had one of those boards so I borrowed it (ZY12PDN). It works flawlessly (set to 9V) in my duo and all my noise artifacts are completely gone. I waited until the led on the board got yellow before plugging (that means 9V) and also measured with a multimeter.

usb-c-pd.png
#9
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by thesteve - 02/28/2026, 02:08 AM
I break them loose by holding the body of the pot with small pliers and turning the knob
If you just turn it without support, you could damage the legs or board