Messages

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo R - crackling Left Audio after RGB mod]

Evidently the issue was solely caused by my wiring. I quickly tacked in some 30 awg kynar just so that the console would output video again when I'm testing and when I turned it back on all the cracks and pops were gone. I did a full playthrough of a game and still no crackling sound.

It's really irritating because I did a really nice job before and this hack job I put together in 5 minutes works better. It's still interesting to me that this manifested as an audio issue. I know csync and Green were fine. The pins where Red and Blue are pulled from both have neighboring pins that are supplying +5v, perhaps that same rail supplies the audio circuit and somehow voltage from the R and B lines were shorting into it? There is a trace that supplies +5v to all the various pins on that side of the chip - that crosses my wiring, perhaps the solder mask on it was damaged. I really don't know though.

I will still replace the capacitors (eventually). There are so many though, there has to be at least 50 or 60 of them. I'll focus on playing some games for the time being, and then come back to this.

Also, I know this outcome kind of contradicts my original post, but I insist that there was a very comfortable air gap between all my original wiring, there was nothing bridged or anything visible that would indicate a short.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo R - crackling Left Audio after RGB mod]

EDIT: I have no idea anymore, I double checked my mod-work again and the crackling goes away when I fully disconnect my RGB amp (between the HuC6260 and the inputs of the modboard)

Ah, interesting! The motherboard was fully recapped I assume BTW ??

It actually has not been recapped yet. I've recapped all my other consoles of similar age except the Duo R, simply because it has a lot of capacitors and everyone always insists that the Duo R/RX never have bad caps.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Duo R - crackling Left Audio after RGB mod]

I'm thinking now that it was just a coincidence that this issue occurred after making changes to my RGB mod. I completely disconnected csync and reflowed pins 40-45 on the 6260 just to be safe and I'm still getting lots of cracking out of the left speaker. So it looks like I'll have to treat this as just an audio problem. Perhaps a capacitor or op-amp went bad.

EDIT: I have no idea anymore, I double checked my mod-work again and the crackling goes away when I fully disconnect my RGB amp (between the HuC6260 and the inputs of the modboard)

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Duo R - crackling Left Audio after RGB mod]

I'm having trouble comprehending what is going on with this Duo R. I'm using Voultar's Duo RGB board (the older blue one). Up until recently I was using CVBS as sync, but I decided to hook up csync.

The moment I connected pin 44 on the 6260 to Voultar's board I started getting all kind of cracking and popping out of my left speaker--for whatever reason I decided to test the system at this point--the csync is not hooked up to the DIN at this point, so I know nothing I did at the DIN is causing this problem. I eventually finish the mod removing the DIN, disconnecting CVBS, and wiring csync to the DIN in its place, the problem persists.

I did all the basic checks, different TV/speakers, different ac adapter, different video cables. I verified ground continuity for the power cord, scart cable, and the modboard. I scrutinized every one of my joints and all the components on the modboard with a USB microscope and found no issues. I don't understand how anything I did would affect the audio circuit like this.

Does anyone have any ideas about what this could be? Also the RGB output has been flawless throughout all of this. There has never been a single issue with the picture quality.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Convince me I was right to buy 1941]

If it's a game you like and will revisit for years I don't see a problem with it. If it's 2030 and I want to play Dungeon Explorer 2, Bonk 3, Musha Aleste etc, do I really care about the $200 in 201X money I spent on those games? You can always make more money.

I wouldn't call it an asset though. You aren't collecting a monthly payment from someone because you own a video game. And if you resell it you're probably not going to make a worthwhile return on it. Assets are supposed to make you money, 1941 clearly isn't going to improve your finances is basically what I'm trying to say.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Are PC Engine games sealed with a Y-fold?]

I don't intentionally buy sealed games and very rarely buy games one at a time. It was part of a large lot and was the only sealed game. Obviously this thing looks suspicious but if you saw the other games that were part of this lot I think anyone would entertain the possibility that this game could be real.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Are PC Engine games sealed with a Y-fold?]

Ok, this is clearly fake once you open it up. It says PCE Works on the disc itself and on the back of the manual. The white plastic tray is all wrong. The paper everything is printed on is different and so on. I still think whoever makes these is a bit of a prick for not putting such markings on the outside of the packaging.

A shrinkwrap seal, or specifically a potential re-seal is not definitive proof of a fake game. Without a known original to compare to and without opening the game, the strongest tell that this was fake is that the manual is a little too thick and the cd tray was maybe a little too white.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Are PC Engine games sealed with a Y-fold?]

Ok, here are some pictures. The line in question is the © 1986 1993 Konami part. The copyright symbol is cut off and the whole line just looks slightly suspect.

https://imgur.com/a/blgGY

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Are PC Engine games sealed with a Y-fold?]

I've got this sealed copy of Dracula X. I suspect that it's a PCEWorks reprint because it's shrink wrapped instead of sealed with a y-fold. Was the Y-fold standard in Japan during this time period?

It looks so real otherwise. There's one line of text that is maybe slightly blurry, but I'd need to reference an original to say that it's not supposed to look that way. This is an impeccable forgery if it is one.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Turbo Pad (HES-PAD-01) Sticky D-Pad Fix]

That's an interesting approach, I'll have to try out that method next time I get another controller.

I have to say though, I'm partial to the way these D-Pads feel on the older controllers. Especially once greased, quarter circles feel really nice. Almost Genesis 6 button pad like, but not really. I suppose it's all personal preference.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Turbo Pad (HES-PAD-01) Sticky D-Pad Fix]

It became necessary for me to find a solution to the sticky d-pad on this specific model of controller. I've had 4 of these now, and I've never seen one that didn't bind in 1 or 2 diagonal directions. So basically I just put some White Lithium Grease inside. I actually went a little heavy on the grease in this picture, you do not need to use a lot of it:

https://imgur.com/XGYYoJU

My controller works perfectly now. This fix should last a couple of years at least I would think. I believe the issue lies in the little nubs on the left and right side of the d-pad. They are too small and they allow the d-pad to be pulled into the opening which causes it to rub hard against the surface pointed out in the picture above.

There is a later revision of this controller (no model # on the back of it). The little nubs on the d-pad are much larger and it doesn't suffer this problem. However that particular d-pad seems to have a reduced range of motion and the whole controller just feels like cheap junk.

Hopefully someone else will find this helpful and some controllers can avoid the trash bin.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTB Soldier Blade]

As long as the set contains Motor Roader, all is well in the world.

This is truth!

I've added Moto Roader to the list after hearing so many people talk about it. I tried it on emulator and was surprised at how good it is. So everyone fear not, Moto Roader will most certainly be a part of the collection.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Turbo Stick PCB repair]

I'm not interested in making any further repairs at this time seeing as how the Turbo Stick is 100% working.

I know this topic is kind of unusual, I'd just really like to know what happened in the electronics to bring it back to life. From my perspective, it appears as though this thing magically fixed itself.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Turbo Stick PCB repair]

So I was having issues with this Turbo Stick. I already fixed it, but I was hoping someone more educated could explain how I fixed it. The problem with this Turbo Stick was that it was not registering input for D-Pad right. Here's what I did:

1) Disassembled and plugged just the PCB into the console.

2) With one of the membrane switches in my fingers, I pressed it on each of the button pads. D-Pad right still was not registering inputs.

3) I began searching for damaged traces. Using a jumper wire, I bypassed the first trace between the button and the resistor. The button immediately began working. I've included pictures of the top and bottom of the board with the location of my jumper wire marked with red dots.

4) Here's the strange part, picking up the membrane switch again and using it on D-Pad right, the button all of a sudden functions normally. Does anyone understand why this happened?

https://imgur.com/a/DBX1J

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTB Soldier Blade]

It looks like nobody has an extra Soldier Blade. Not surprising I suppose. I've added an alternative offer for just the manual.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTB Soldier Blade]

I just find that when I have a full rom set dowloaded for use with a PC emulator, that I play 1 or 2 games that I'm most curious about and then never touch the rest of them. When I buy something, then I'm committed to playing it because I have money in it.

I will start using flash carts to play rom hacks/translations on original hardware and to try a few games before buying. Which I use emulators for now. And I will eventually get a Duo R to play JP exclusives and CD games.

In regards to CD-Rs, I think in 20-30 years from now they will be the only way to play Sega CD/Turbo CD/Saturn games on original hardware. People are already finding that several of their games have little pinholes in the data layer due to disc rot.

I'm a little nervous about putting CD-Rs into an expensive console like a Duo R, I don't know if that overworks the laser or not. I've never been satisfied with the explanations I've read for if CD-Rs do or do not stress laser assemblies. But when I start getting into these systems more, I'm definitely not dropping $1000+ into the original discs. Hopefully someone makes a disc drive replacement like the Saturn/DC have.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTB Soldier Blade]

Yes, JJ and Jeff is one of those games where sometimes you have have to stop mid session for the sake of your own sanity. I got to 6-3 the first time I played it and have been meaning to get back to it for months. The game has a lot of character though, it's worthwhile for platformer fans.

Sinistron might be above my skill level right now as I'm still relatively inexperienced with shooting games. But I love the mechanic of exposing the cockpit to fire wider. I've only played the first 3 stages so I haven't seen the huge jump in difficulty yet, but I can imagine what it's going to be like.

As far as buying a flash cart or games from other regions to save money, that is something I will never do. I find that I play more videogames when I have to buy them. If a game is too expensive like Magical Chase, I'll just never play that game. Playing videogames is a cheap hobby, it doesn't bother me that every console I own has a few games I'll have to pay $200 for.

But annywaays, Solider Blade. I would keep your eyes on eBay for the next little bit.

For these games that didn't come in jewel cases, my insistence that I have the manual complicates things. Who knows maybe I'll get lucky in the next few weeks. What worries me is when someone puts together a donor jewel case with a repro label and charges a premium price. Every time I see one of these ebay listings, I'm always worried that someone is going to buy it and then for 90 days other sellers are going to think Soldier Blade is a $400 game.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB Soldier Blade]

EDIT: All games found and purchased. Collection complete.

Hello, my friends. I am looking for a few more titles to finish off my NA Turbo collection, and at the moment I'm looking to get Soldier Blade (I might add the other 2 to the thread at a later date).

I'm not looking for perfection, but I'd like a manual that is not ripped/written on. And I'd prefer the game not to have a ton of scratches.


Since this is my first post, and since I've heard you guys can be weird about selling games like this, I feel the need to add this next part. When I say I'm completing my NA TurboGrafx-16 collection, I mean that I'm completing my own personal list of 23 games. I'm not a shelf collector. I always aim to complete 80%+ of the games I buy, and I've almost done that with the TG-16. I need to beat either Sinistron, JJ and Jeff, or max out the score counter in one of the Crush games.