Images

[High Score Records / Re: "Nantettatte Engine" High Scores]

It's like a wall of shit at this point. Lol

How the hell did he get a million...... Uhg

Playing on my supergrafx, everdrive, on my plasma through a framemeister.

Does a three button controllers third button drop a nuke at the expense of say 5 lives? ;D

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Another Sale thread ... I missed VGS ...]

I missed VGS, personal issues. Anyways, everything I have is for sale.

If you don't like a price but want something message me and I will see what I can do.

I will gradually add things over time as I get pictures and things cleaned up proper. All prices include shipping to the states. If you would like an item outside of the US please contact me with a message so we can figure out shipping costs.

There are PCE and TG16 items listed along with some Saturn items.

Daimakaimura $100


This game is complete to my knowledge. It has the sleeve, game, case directions and card inside the directions. The sleeve is in ok shape.

Consoles
2x PC Engine Duo's These are region and RGB modded. Fully recapped and new pickup lens's. They come with controller and power supply and 3rd party composite AV cable. Also included is the RGB scart cable
Each console = $395 - Price includes shipping

Sega Saturn - Fully recapped and phantom mod chip for playing burned games. Comes with composite cable and RGB scart cable. One controller and power cord.
$325 - Price includes shipping


Instead of taking pictures of all the games I will just list them. I will take pictures upon request for potential sales if needed.


Saturn
Virtua Fighter    $5.00
Virtua Fighter 2 – Daytona Sleeve    $5.00
Fifa 96    $5.00
Blazing Heroes - $50
Shining Wisdom - $150

Sega CD
Lunar: The Silver Star Story - $85
Lunar: Eternal Blue - $150
Shining Force - $125
Vay - $75
Silpheed - $30
Lords of Thunder - $150

Disc only
Sol Feace - $5
Prince of Persia - $10
Jaguar XJ220 - $5
Cobra Command - $10
Blackhole Assault - $10
Afterburner 3 - $10
Sewer Shark - $5

PCE JP
Bomberman – Loose Hucard    $5.00
Bomberman – Loose Hucard    $5.00
Bomberman – Loose Hucard    $5.00
Battle Lode Runner – Loose    $30.00
Knight Rider Special – Loose    $5.00
Power League Baseball – Loose    $5.00
Neutopia – Loose    $15.00
3x3 Eyes    $17.50
Cosmic Fantasy 2 – Loose    $5.00
The Davis Cup Tennis    $5.00
Forgotten Worlds – Opened New    $70.00
Popful Mail + OBI    $80.00
Wizardry 1&2    $10.00
Wizardry 3&4 + OBI  $10.00
Wizardry 5    $10.00
Cosmic Fantasy 3    $20.00
Cosmic Fantasy 4 – Chapter 1    $25.00
Cosmic Fantasy 4 – Chapter 2    $25.00
Cosmic Fantasy    $15.00
The Legend of Xanadu    $15.00
Y's 4: The Dawn of Ys    $20.00
Galaga 88    $20.00
Emerald Dragon + OBI $20.00
Far East of Eden 2    $15.00
L-Dis    $20.00
Far East of Eden 2    $15.00
Prince of Persia – Loose    $5.00
IQ Panic    $10.00
Fatal Fury 2    $20.00
Princess maker 1    $10.00
Final Soldier    $45.00
Record of Lodoss War + OBI    $20.00
Emerald Dragon    $20.00
Shadow of the Beast    $25.00
Shadow of the Beast    $25.00
CD Battle    $15.00
Kiso Louga    $15.00
Lords of the Rising Sun    $15.00
Dragon Slayer: The Legend of Heroes    $15.00
Vasteel + OBI $15.00
Snatcher    $45.00
Fatal Fury 2 – Sealed    $25.00
Panic Bomber + OBI $20.00
Art of Fighting 2    $20.00
World Heroes 2    $25.00
Street Fighter 2    $25.00
Super Star Soldier    $60.00
Gunbuster Vol 2    $10.00
Gaia Emblem    $20.00
Neutopia 2    $35.00
Power Sports    $20.00
Space Invaders    $20.00
R-Type 1    $25.00
Bloodia    $10.00
Doraemon – Meikyu Daisakusen    $15.00
Maniac Pro Wrestling    $10.00
Final Soldier    $45.00
Babel    $10.00
Neo Metal Fantasy    $10.00
Super Star Soldier    $60.00
Dragon Knight 2    $20.00
Super Scwarzschild 2    $20.00
Vasteel    $15.00
Final Solder    $45.00 - Pending
Bomberman 94    $50.00
Galaxy Fraulein Yuna    $10.00
Dragon Knight 2    $20.00
Super Schwarzchild    $20.00
Gotzendiener    $25.00
Gotzendiener + OBI    $25.00
Ranma ½    $15.00
BlackHole Assault + OBI    $15.00
Zero Wing    $65.00
Susano-O Densetsu    $10.00
Sadakichi Seven    $10.00
Jantei Monogatari 2 uchu Tantei Diban – Shutshudo Hen    $10.00
Jantei Monogatari 2 uchu Tantei Diban – Kanketsu Hen    + OBI $10.00
NeoNectaris    $5.00
Final Soldier – Loose    $30.00

TG16 US

If you are looking for a specific US game please message me. If I have it I will let you know and determine a price. These are from my personal collection from when the console was released and every game has only been owned by me. I am deciding what ones to let go depending if the price is right.

My US games list ... Prices not listed as I would prefer to negotiate in PM's.

Y's Book 1&2
Lords of the Rising Sun
Cosmic Fantasy 2
Dungeon Explorer 2
Dungeon Master: Therons Quest
Lords of Thunder
Shadow of the Beast
Monster Lair
Sherlock Holmes 1
Loom
ShapeShifter
Gate of Thunder 4n1 disc
It Came from the Desert
Y's 3 Wanderers from Ys
Vasteel
Buster Bros
John Madden Duo CD Football
Sim Earth: The Living Planet

Ordyne
Cadash
Night Creatures
Yo Bro
Victory Run
Vigilante
Devils Crush
Bravoman
Final Lap Twin
Keith Courage
Galaga 90
Super Star Soldier
Moto Roader
TV sports Football
R-Type
Dungeon Explorer
Champions Forever Boxing
Sidearms
Gunboat
Double Dungeons
TV Sports Basketball
The Legendary Axe
World Court Tennis
Silent Debuggers
Sonic Spike
Neutopia
Bloody Wolf
Jack Nicklaus: Turbo Golf
Somer Assault - Sold
Bonks Adventure
Cybercore
World Class Baseball - Loose
Soldier Blade - Loose
Neutopia 2 + manual only
Klax - Loose
Dragon Spirit - Loose
BoxyBoy - Loose
Parasol Stars - Loose
Pac-Land - Loose
Air Zonk - Loose
Order of the Griffon - Loose
TV Sports Hockey - Loose
Alien Crush - Loose
Bomberman 93 - Loose
Falcon - Loose
Ninja Spirit - Loose
Military Madness - Loose
Shockman - Loose
Hit the Ice - Loose
Splatterhouse - Loose

Stay Tuned....

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Google translate fails.... maybe?]

Well, seems I have two more games I can't find what there names are exactly. I tried looking them up on the wikipedia list of pce games but couldn't find any matching pictures.

The two on the left Emerald Dragon and Ys 1&2 but I have no idea what the two on the right are. If anyone knows the names let me know please.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Google translate fails.... maybe?]

OK, so I have a couple games I need to figure out what they are and google translate gave me weird names so I am not sure if it is correct or not. If you can help me out with what these game names are it would be great.

First one is this.
激レア貴重レトロゲーム PCエンジン 雀偵物語2宇宙探偵ディバン
Google translate = Rhea precious retro game PC Engine sparrow 偵物 language 2 universe detective Divan


Second one
【即決】PCエンジン　雀偵物語2　宇宙探偵ディバン完結編
Google Translate = [Prompt decision] PC engine sparrow 偵物 language 2 universe detective Divan Kanketsuhen


3rd one is just a pic as it contains 5 games. I can read 2 of them but have no idea what the other 3 are. The two I can obviously read are, Bloodia and Maniac pro wrestling.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: [Obey - Brew] pairings and other silly things]

Finally found one that I think matches the beer I drink.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Can Pcenginefx beat all of the licensed TurboGrafx-16 games in 2016? (60/134)]

Double Dungeons

Dude, amazing. I actually thought about playing through this one again but just didn't have the time to do it. Crappy game but it does have it's merits as a huge time waster.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Amping the sync signal?]

Ahh yes, it is a switch, I just said splitter not thinking.

And an update from him this morning actually. He said he was playing with the vertical hold last night and the screen just scrolls left and right now.

He has several consoles he is hooking up the BVM and is using the switch to change to different consoles.

Some pics of how it is hooked up.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/236vbttro/

[Off-Topic / Yellow to white, oh yeah :D]

So I had my first ever attempt at whitening some yellow plastic this past day.

I had bought some super yellowed controllers with hopes to experiment and see if I could turn them white. I know from reading around there is retrobrite and all sort of methods to getting yellowed plastic white again. So I decided to try an inexpensive route to get the few super yellow controllers I have white again.

I bought a EXO Terra reptile UVB200 (PT2340) bulb and the cheapest hood I could find at my local pet store. I think the total cost was around $40.

I then picked out a box that could house whatever I wanted to whiten. If it was a Duo-R shell or controller or whatever I can fit them in my box. I then lined the box with tinfoil with the shiny side visible to me.

I cut off one of the flaps on one of the sides of the box. I mounted the lamp to my server rack facing down into the box on the side I cut the flap on.

I then bought "permanent coloring creme developer 40 volume" from my local hairstylist the last time I was getting my hair cut. The 32oz bottle cost me $10.

I then spread the 12% peroxide creme over the controller halves and set them in the bottom of the box. I read that the creme will evaporate so and read that putting some saran wrap over them will prevent that. So, I put saran wrap over the two halves making sure it was smooth as possible.

After about 12hrs I took the two halves out and washed them with water. I wanted to do a better time lapse but fell asleep at some point working on other stuff and woke up and it was done.

Here is the link to the pics.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/hhsee7p0/

Start


End




I think the total cost would come out to around $60 or less. But I now have all the stuff I need to whiten yellowed plastic and I still have a ton of the creme. I barely used any on the controller halves, I just put a little on my gloves and smeared it around then saran wrapped it.

[Localizations, Games, Apps, Docs / Re: TurboRip v1.40: The PC Engine/TG-16 CDROM ISO/WAV/CUE Ripper [8/19/2015]!]

This is a 100% original. My dad bought this game when I was a teenager. It is one of the original games I got with my TurboDuo for xmas one year. It was purchased from Electronics Boutique.

Some pics.


---------Table of Contents--------

Track 01 Audio 00:02:00 LBA=000000
Track 02 Data  00:45:09 LBA=003234
Track 03 Audio 01:30:05 LBA=006605
Track 04 Audio 04:20:66 LBA=019416
Track 05 Audio 05:50:74 LBA=026174
Track 06 Audio 07:04:14 LBA=031664
Track 07 Audio 07:39:64 LBA=034339
Track 08 Audio 10:42:56 LBA=048056
Track 09 Audio 13:33:70 LBA=060895
Track 10 Audio 15:06:27 LBA=067827
Track 11 Audio 17:00:74 LBA=076424
Track 12 Audio 19:30:61 LBA=087661
Track 13 Audio 22:34:54 LBA=101454
Track 14 Audio 24:17:13 LBA=109138
Track 15 Audio 24:50:39 LBA=111639
Track 16 Audio 27:56:70 LBA=125620
Track 17 Audio 30:16:40 LBA=136090
Track 18 Audio 37:30:01 LBA=168601
Track 19 Data  38:50:36 LBA=174636

Leadout: 39:31:33       LBA 177708

----------------------------------


I copied from the terminal, if you prefer the entire .toc file I will get that for you.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Turbo Grafx 16 / PC Engine / Express / GT Region Mod Chips for sale!]

It should perform better especially with the everdrive since the data lines are a lot shorter without the use of wires.

We will get another batch run.  We are double checking everything again and will go with bigger footprints for the components.

I have a TED v2.4. I have not tried nor do I have a previous version. But in all the systems I have installed the Obey V2 chip in all worked fine with the TED v2.4.

I've done more than these 3 but these are the best ones I have done with a clean look.



   

I am sure I can do better but as they say, practice makes perfect. These 3 systems are also using Turbokons RGB amps. The black PC Engine Duo I found using a connector to be extremely helpfull in case I needed to go back into the system I also use a thin velcro to mount the chip so I can move them or remove them a lot easier than using double sided tape.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / REPAIR GUIDE - Super CD-ROM²: Total Capacitor Replacement Chart]

Here are some pics of the area on my Super CD-Rom 2 unit.




The way the expansion board is laid out the caps are just behind the other ones on the main PCB. There is one cap in that area on the bottom at C63? but I used a ceramic cap in that spot so clearance was not an issue. I cut the legs short on the caps that go on the expansion board then bent the legs into a "L" shape and soldered them on.

I used Nichicon audio caps on the expansion board except on C604 and C610. I used ceramics in those two spots.

I use this to measure stuff when working on these consoles:

[Off-Topic / SMT cap identification?]

I have a Sega Saturn sitting here that I was going to replace the caps on. I understand this forum isn't really a site for tech info on these consoles but my question relates to the caps and I know people here know more about them then I do.

Anyways, the SMT caps on the mainboard have markings I am unfamiliar with.

Like:

D5h
100
6.3v

or

DSW
1
50v



But there are other caps that have numbers like this on them that I am unsure of what they mean.

47
6S
5A5


Also, does anyone know where I can find a 10 pin mini din that solders into the PCB on a 90 degree angle? I can't find one in my google searches but maybe I have not looked hard enough yet.

To help out here is a pic. It's the one next to the lettering CE35. I guess I just need to make sure that this is a 47uf cap. There are 4 on the board. I can grab whatever voltage caps to replace them that are the same dimension. I will prolly just get the highest voltage in the same physical size range to be safe.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Question about the DUO/R/RX's save data cap]

The SuperCap on the Duo-R boards is located at C509. In between the A/V DIN and the 7805 Heatsink closest to the Din.

I have a Duo-RX here that needs repair and the PCB motherboard looks exactly the same as a Duo-R.

You can see the large cap just above the RGB amp on this install I did. I put a piece of electrical tape on the PCB then poked the SuperCap legs down into it and soldered the bottom. I did this because there is trace test dot. <-- Lack of better words... Right next to the legs and since the large cap has a larger leg I wanted to make sure it doesn't touch anything it's not supposed to.



This is in a PC Engine DUO. It's the black cap in the bottom middle of the image with arrows on it pointing to the left.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: What PC-Engine Stuff did you get today?]

Well, I didn't get all of this in one day but this is basically my xmas present to myself over the past month or two.

SuperGrafx unit that was sold as junk. Fully restored and working. I even found an original SuperGrafx power supply for it.
The Super CD-Rom 2 unit was locked away in a box for some collectard. So I decided to liberate it. I recapped it and RGB modded it. Works great with the SuperGrafx.
LAst but not least I bought myself a Memory Base 128 after reading the Hero thread from Nulltard. This was brand new in the box and well, I opened it and now use it full time for backing up saves.






Cosmic Fantasy, Cosmic Fantasy 3, Cosmic Fantasy 4ch1, Cosmic Fantasy 4ch2
Y's 4: The Dawn of Y's, Popful Mail, The Legend of Xanadu, The Legend of Xanadu 2
Emerald Dragon, Wizardry 1&2, Wizardry 2&3, Wizardry 5
I really enjoyed Cosmic Fantasy 2 US version so I wanted the rest of the series. Y's 4 and the Xanadu games have translations or are being translated so I wanted those to make patching an original much simpler instead of trying from a .bin .cue from online.
Emerald Dragon and Popful Mail are memory base 128 compatible and I read good things about both so.... Wizardry 1-5 was something I found interest in after the game of the week. I found a full set from one buyer and jumped on it.



All of the repro's from Bernie and crew.
All of the SuperGrafx games original and enhanced by the SuperGrafx. <-- This was the collectard showing in me. But, Darius Plus, Battle Ace and Madō King Granzort were brand new and sealed. Once again I liberated them and they are now ready to be played once I get to them.
Last but not least the Arcade Duo card. I plan on grabbing two 6 button controllers at some point with more Arcade card games down the road.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: DUO-RX RGB mod not working]

I agree with mickcris. The wire selection is important for ease of use.

I also think having the proper tools helps a lot here as well. A variable temp soldering iron can help but dealing directly on the chip legs with these wires I found that having proper tweezers helps a ton.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VETUS-ESD-Safe-Anti-static-Stainless-Steel-Tweezers-Maintenance-Repair-Set-/381294130884?var=&hash=item58c6e6b6c4:m:mFRKHgE2bossdtCbOlauxxw



Take the wire like mentioned above, trim off roughly 2mm of the outer cover with some wire strippers. Twist the wire tight with your fingers. Then use a flux pen and coat the tip of the wire. Then apply the iron and solder to the end of the wire. Just a quick touch is plenty to get a solder coating "tinning" on the wire. I use some locking tweezers to hold the wire while I use both hands for the solder and iron.

Once I have that done I use the above tweezers in the link above to hold the wire and steadily apply heat. Once you see the solder on the wire melt remove the iron, blow gently on the wire to help the solder harden faster. This usually allows for quick and secure connection without excess solder on the pins. If the iron is not hot enough it will not heat the leg you are trying to connect the wire to. This will make a bad connection or no connection at all. So you may have to hold for slightly longer to make sure the leg gets sufficiently hot so the solder flows on to it from the wire.

If you get a mess of solder on the pins use some solder braid to help remove it. But by using only the solder from tinning this should not be a problem.

This is the end result with one of the Duo-R's I have recently RGB modded. I think I trimmed slightly more than 2mm on the wires and I used a dab of flux on the legs of the Hu6260 chip.


I should also mention. I also use a multimeter that has an audio signal for continuity. I can then test each leg to make sure I did not bridge them together. If I hear audio on the neighboring leg of the 6260 then I used to much solder and I need to redo the connection. Do one at a time and be patient. Steady hands help.

[Off-Topic / The “What-Did-You-Buy-Today?” Thread]

I picked up a copy of It Came From the Desert. What a weird game. I think the acting is pretty good, and quite humorous. It may not seem as weird and over the top to me because I actually live in the South.

If anyone doubts the legitimacy of the acting, visit Pelion or Red Bank SC. You will be convinced that the actors deserve Emmy awards lol.

Overall though, the game is a disjointed mess, and lacks flow and direction.

Honestly I have never gotten very far in this game but I use this game + Ys 3 to test new pickup lenses and/or adjustements as this game is all over the disc for animated scenes. I love it for that alone really.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: The two sync's?]

I had a few minutes to play around tonight. So I decided to slap a switch in my machine SPDT on-on type switch.

I took the 8pin din header out and clipped the peg that goes through the motherboard. I then put a wire from Pin 1 to the center of the switch.

I wired CSync to one side from the Hu6260 chip and Composite sink from the hole under the motherboard where I snipped the pin to the other side.

It seems composite Sync works just fine, but when I turn off the machine and flip the switch. The CSync side has some heavy wavy lines. It's almost like interference.

The ground I am using is the one default one for the 8pin din, pin 3. Do I need to use a different ground?

This particular machine has ceramic caps for the jail bar fix on pins 41 and 43. The CSync wire was connected to the V2 Component mod. That mod worked fine so I assume the chip and wire are good. I put the RGB mod in and ran the CSync wire to the switch. Removing the component mod.

The interference I am not sure is from the ground or from the other Sync possibly? I am really at a loss for my my picture is like this. I linked some pics for compare.

Composite


CSync


For reference in case anyone wants to know what the original composite looks like compared to the above pics.


I am mostly just trying to do this to see what if any real differences are.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / MNKyDeth - Obey items FS]

This will be my FS thread. As things sell or items become available I will update the first post.

I have been fixing up some of our beloved consoles. I am mostly just trying to get what I put into them and sadly I may have over paid for a couple of them. Either of these consoles are priced exactly what I put into them, with accessories I am actually losing a little money. All accessories are 3rd party except the controllers but they are non-rapid fire controllers and obviously are not original to the Duo's.

I will only sell one of these as I only have one magnet + locking ring so let me know which one. If you like I can slap the HuCard lid from the TurboDuo on the Pc Engine Duo if that is the one you want.

First up is an either or choice. There is a TurboDuo or a PC Engine Duo. Both of these systems were used as parts machines. They were scavanged from for whatever reasons. I replaced many of the parts, ports, accessories to try to make them complete. I also used 0.33 Farad SuperCaps so the save games will stay in memory longer when unplugged.

Console Only = $250+shipping
TurboDuo


In one picture the gears were not cleaned and regreased. I realized that when I took the pic and then cleaned and put fresh White Lithium grease on it. The shell has been abused in the back and velcro on the bottom. I put in an eight port A/V socket as the 5pin one was missing. There is no RGB in this system just the standard composite.

I cleaned the entire PCB and used ceramic caps on all SMT/SMD areas and Nichicon caps on all thru-hole locations. I recalibrated the HOP-M3 and it worked with over 10 of my CD games while testing over the past week. I did not try any CD-R "burned" games as I do not have any.


Console with accessories = $275+shipping

The other System is the PC Engine Duo.

Console Only = $250+shipping
PC Engine Duo


This console is missing the magnet + locking ring under the cd-rom lid. This console is in perfect working order. Same as the other one, same caps, recalibrated pickup lens etc.


Console with accessories = $275+shipping

It may have been a bad choice to use ceramics in these consoles as it greatly increased the price. But they work and I prefer the ceramics. If you would like either of these region modded or RGB modded let me know and we can discuss price.

[Off-Topic / Re: What is your favorite beer?]

Life is too short to drink crappy beers.
This is heaven in a can
http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/17981/59173/

On a scale of 1-10 how bitter is that IPA PunkCryborg?

The best IPA I have tried is Bells : Two Hearted
And honestly it was still a little to bitter for me and that was very mild compared to some I tried.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / RAFFLE: Lords of Thunder US Version]

This is for my 200 post anniversary here on the site. The site that has given so much to me in terms of information and even a game Buster Bros.

I will pay shipping to anyone in the lower 48 US and if you live outside this area and are willing to pay the shipping you may enter as well. You also must have a 200 post count or higher in celebration of my 200th post.

So... I happened across a better LoT than the one I have. It had a cd case and manual and no scratches.

So, I am giving away my LoT that has no manual, comes in a generic CD case and is nothing but the disc, with some scratches. It does play, and you can complete the game with it. But the audio will stop playing from time to time when it hits one of the bad spots.



I will draw a winner on Nov 9 2015.

Please post saying "I want to be entered" with at least a 200 post count and I will add you to the list.

Also, please don't sell it, if you are done with it, re-raffle it back to the community so others can enjoy it if you get bored or are done with it, or keep it forever.


List of Entrants:

Bernie
Grolt
Punch
GohanX
cr8zykuban0
o.pwuaioc
schweaty
PCEngineHell
Dicer
wildfruit
slinkyturd
WoodyXP
Elderbroom
chop5
spenoza
Phase



The list from Random.org


    chop5
    WoodyXP
    PCEngineHell
    cr8zykuban0
    Elderbroom
    wildfruit
    slinkyturd
    o.pwuaioc
    Phase
    Grolt
    Bernie
    Dicer
    spenoza
    schweaty
    GohanX
    Punch


CONGRATS chop5
PM me and we will get this game heading you're way!!!
One week to reply, if there is no PM I will move to the next person on the list. Just to keep it moving.

[Off-Topic / The “What-Did-You-Buy-Today?” Thread]

That sublime feeling of opening up a brand new game... even if it is Sonic Spike.

Lol, Psycho Punch, that is awesome. Sometimes I wish I had that 12k - 20k I could just blow on anything and grab that US Duo on eBay and rip it open with pics for everyone. Then recap it ....

Then for fun I would post it back on eBay for a couple thousand more saying..... better than brand new in the box. It actually works....

[High Score Records / Re: Santatlantean High Score Contest]

Put in a few more hours today with Santatlantean. I am getting better but not up to NecroPhile or Desh yet, but close.



My hands are cramping so I am done for now. Atlantean tonight though after my GF goes to bed.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Atlantean Extras Are Available.]

Stayed up 2hrs longer than normal today. Here is the result, in pics....




I plan on streaming this game on twitch during this weekend sometime. Just not sure when yet. But when I do ...  up scaled to 1080p in RGB. www.twitch.tv/mnkydeth This is for those that are on the fence about the game and can watch it in real time for hours as I try and get better at this game.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Component + RGB amp + XRGB]

After a couple of days of tinkering with the system I have found a few things. But I need help with it as I don't understand why it is happening.

I have been running my Duo with all three ports filled. The Composite, the Component and RGB. Everything works as described with the pictures in the first post.

1. RGB shows the Red + blue screen with no green when the Composite connection is connected. But not when it is unplugged.

2. I get no picture from my RGB chip with the Composite connection unplugged.

3. The jittery screen on the component connection is gone when I have the Composite connection connected. But it will jitter when the composite connection is unplugged.

I have no idea why this is happening, any info or ideas are much appreciated.

This is how I have my chips wired up.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Component + RGB amp + XRGB]

I edited the entire thread to hopefully make my issue a bit more clear.

To start I will post some pics.

Ok, I have some SS's of each mode (RGB, Component and Composite) exact same settings. Each chip was removed while testing the other one. They are at 1080p upscaled on the XRGB-mini.

RGB


Component


Composite


Youtube video of the Jitter on the component output when the composite cable is unplugged.

The jitter happens at the 8s mark and I think the 21 second mark in the video. It shifts the screen at 21s instead of doing the jitter.




After a week of testing, poking and prodding etc. I finally have a working RGB output. Here are the results.



To me I think the Component chip has a bit cleaner output. I seem to be getting a bit extra red in the RGB amp which makes it seem to blur just a touch.

I may play a bit more with it adjust the color settings on my XRGB-mini to see if I can make it better. I do know one thing, I know my system better now far more than I ever expected to know it. Each trace, each wire and I am just so glad everything works now.

Any more mods go into this machine the next one up will be the Obey chip mod from Turbokon. Also I would like to mention that I am using the Component V2 chip and the RGB amp from Turbokon's website.

http://www.tg16pcemods.com/

He was the one that finally pointed me in the right direction by examining the amp board a little closer. One of the feet on of the chips was not making contact although to the naked eye I could not tell. It took me taking off the 6.3v 470uF cap and testing every trace to figure out where the issue was exactly.

I should mention that I need to have the Composite cable from the Duo plugged in to keep the video signal stable on the Component and RGB output. I do not however need it plugged into anything, just into the Duo and that's it.

Now off to play some games, hells yeah!!

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Best Dungeon Explorer class for single-player play?]

That's it, no more Bomberman for the fiance, I am taking my Duo back and sitting down to some Dungeon Explorer.


Edit:

This was with the Fighter. I leveled the attack two times then the agility two times and then I just dumped everything into the purple one... stamina until I was at around 400hp then I went back to adding to attack. I think there was one place in the game I couldn't reach something because I didn't have the agility to pass or push against the force pushing against me. Speed does help a lot especially for boss battles but it's not required. I prefer higher health and lining up my shots quickly vs trying to run around.

Ok, after I woke up last night I sat down with a beer or two... Popped in some Dungeon Explorer. After continuing from my passwords three times I finally reached the end screen. The game is harder than I remember. But I think I am just very rusty as it's been almost 15-20yrs since I have actually played it. I remember running through this game without ever dying... Oh well just takes a bit more practice to get back to that level of play.



Oh.. side note I obviously freed the princess and got her code but I couldn't remember how to get the Hermit in the house east of the starting castle. Were there any other hidden characters in this game or just those two? I know Dungeon Explorer 2 had a lot more hidden characters that I am pretty sure I never found.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Custom A/V cable?]

I am making my own cables for the Component and RGB chips from Turbokon.

I am however am unaware (just not sure) of some things.

The regular 5 pin connector on the Duo has video, two audio, +5v and a ground pin. I am unaware if I need to run the +5v and ground over the connector (8 pin mini-din) to the 8pin mini-din to component cable I am making.

I bought a premade component cable that has audio and video connectors. I cut off one end of the cable and soldered the ends into connectors I can unplug from a little wire harness.
Meh pics...





I included a ground on the audio cable part of the cable. But did not hook up the ground to the wire mesh on the video part of the cable. But I am still a bit unaware of where the +5 volt would go on these cables. I don't want to power up my Duo yet in case I have something wrong. I only have the component piece pretty much done and if it works I will finish up the RGB mod and cable.

Well, I guess while I am at it... I am posting another pic of the two mod chips. I used some hot glue to kind of put them together. Instead of using double sided tape I plan on using velcro on the underside of the chips so I can remove them whenever if needed. The way I have the boards wired up I believe will be ok. The only real question I have on this is will I be getting interference from either chip? Should I wire all the wires into a switch to change between the chips?



I am only asking to double check my setup and to make sure I am not going to mess something up.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Looking for trade]

Game I am looking to trade.

Cadash (US version loose with sleeve)




Game I would like to trade for. One or the other.

Dragons Curse (US version, loose is fine)
Monster Lair (Since this is a cd game I do want the jewel case and manual.)

PM if interested, I may negotiate depending what is involved.

Just an FYI, if you click on the pics and then at the bottom of the page you can click on full size. It will really zoom in on the pics so you can really see the detail and slight wear on the HuCard.

[Off-Topic / Re: Show off you're computers!!!]

Well, I guess, I will start off with my main rig.

Specs:
Intel I7 4770k @ 4.6Ghz
16GB of Crucial Ballistix ram 1833Mhz @ 2400Mhz
Zotac AMP! GTX 780 (not the ti version) running @ 1372/7200
Gigabyte G1.Sniper M5
Avermedia Live gamer HD Capture card
CaseLabs Mercury S5 Case
SanDisk Extreme II 120GB and 240GB drives
10 Swiftech Helix fans
Lamptron CW 611 fan controller
Custom water cooling, I can go into more detail on parts if people want to know.



Next up is my Router. There isn't to much that is special about this computer as it is just one of my old computers reused. I use PFSense on this machine as I really imo, have not found a better software firewall solution for home use. This computer is the very top server case in my server rack. Server rack picture is after the Server description and specs.

Intel Core 2 Quad Q9450 @ 2.66Ghz
4GB 1066Mhz DDR2 ram
40GB Mushkin ssd

Lets move over to my HTPC (Home Theatre PC). This computer runs Linux Mint. It provides Netflix, streaming games from my main rig through steam. This gives me access to all windows based games on my Linux desktop. I also stream movies from my server as well as music, etc.

Specs:
Intel I3 4160
GTX 650ti
8GB Mushkin 2133Mhz ram
Mushkin 120GB SSD
GIGABYTE GA-Z97M-DS3H mobo



Ok, I almost forgot about my laptop. Gonna list it but I gave it to my fiance so she wouldn't touch my main rig.  I don't remember all the specs exactly but it is a Lenovo and I also run Linux Mint on it.

Specs:
Intel I5 2410M (I think)
8GB ram
Nvidia Graphics chip but not sure what one.



Last but not least, my server.

Specs:
Intel Xeon E3-1220 V2 cpu
16GB Crucial 1600Mhz ECC ram unbuffered
ASRock E3C204-4L Motherboard
Adaptec RAID 6805E
4x - WD Red WD40EFRX 4TB in a raid 10 on the Adaptec card
OS Centos 6.5 64bit (Linux yet again)

My server is water cooled as well. When I get up the nerve I will crack it open and take some pics so expect them a little later on tonight or this weekend. My server is the second case in my server rack. The bottom case is currently empty but I plan on doing another server that functions as a gaming host server. The current server acts as a file server that streams everything over my network. None of my computers have large drives, mostly just enough for the OS and some games. Everything else, music, pics, movies, basically anything that's not a game goes on my server.
I also have all four nics on the server motherboard bonded for redundancy in case one of the nics fails or goes bad.

As far as my network goes I use a TP-Link 16port Lite managed switch. I also have an Asus wireless router that I only use as an access point. Most all of my cables are Coboc Cat 7 except for a few that I just use for testing outside devices with  or the random computer I am fixing.

[High Score Records / Re: "Tatsujin" high scores]

Ok, I played from 8am to 11:45am this morning and made it to this tank like thing. Have not got past it yet. Oh, I can get to it without dying now.... Damn road blocks....

I am getting there, little bit more I will be with the rest of you hopefully. Not giving up yet.

[Off-Topic / Re: high resolution picture of my anus.]

I have the solution for this.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Pictures of your turbo/pc engine collection]

I just wanted to share my Duo and the games I have. These pics are from just after picking up all my old gear from my dads house. We didn't have it stored very well, but it all seems intact and partially working although a recap is incoming very soon for this Duo.



I remember beating Gate of Thunder without dying while so drunk I could barely sit upright. Man I love that game.

I guess I would like to add, all these games were purchased when I was younger, 18yrs or less. Some were purchased by me mostly at a local game shop that bought and sold new and used games. Way before Gamestop was ever on the scene. Also... I never tried collecting TG16 games but always tried to buy one every couple months with my allowance or begging my Dad whenever we walked by the Electronic Boutique in our local mall.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Taking my Duo out of storage]

I will be going to my dads later today and getting my TurboDuo out of storage. It was in a box in a closet for the past 15-20yrs. I have been doing some extensive research on the Duo for problems that plague the system.

I plan on doing a full cap replacement on it. However I have seen two ways to do this. I believe from what I have seen GameTechUS on youtube has a very good way of going about doing this. He has two vids though one using regular caps and another using ceramic.

What in you're opinions is the better way to go for this?

I am leaning toward the non ceramic caps as those are similar to what the Duo originally had. But the ceramics if there are no issues at all going that route imo is a better solution for longevity and simplicity. I would really like input on this as if ceramics are the better option I would want to try and match the caps a bit better and use class 1 ceramics.

If going ceramic, would matching the voltages etc of them be better or is it not needed? Like he used the 6.3v ones in the vid.

Just for reference.
Non-ceramic

Ceramic

Also, I am confident my soldering skills are up to this task, but when doing this mod should I do other things while I have the Duo opened? Like, should I replace the HOP-M3 Laser pickup and the 9v motor, just for the sake of making them new?

The next major thing I have been thinking of doing is trying to change the video out on this console to something other than composite. I have read the thread here on the forums for the RGB-to-YPbPr/Component Circuit & Mod. I feel this may be a slight bit over my head. I understand most of it but have never done anything like that so I feel uncomfortable with it.

However since I know I can do the soldering part of that job are there any pre-made parts available for something like that out there? I most likely am open to ideas for a nice upgrade in video quality if possible even if it is not in that specific format. HDMI, s-video, anything that I can do or possibly do that is better than straight component. I am planning to hook the console up to my computer with a capture card so before I purchase that I want to make sure I have my video output as good as I can get it and buy the card according to the type of output I have.

I love this console as it has always been my favorite from when I was a teenager.
Any info or links to my questions is greatly appreciated.

Edit: Final

Pics are basically from start to finish. I didn't include them all, just the ones that told a story.

1. My Duo.


2. When my Duo was made.


3. Before the caps came off.


4. Ceramic cap next to a pen.


5. The corrosion OMG, WTF BBQ Sauce.


6. Close up of possibly the worst cap on my board.


7. Cap is removed, those pads lifted when I applied heat to them to clean them.


8. The trace I wrecked, I was very angry with myself. I freaked out for a couple minutes wondering what I was going to do to fix it.


9. There are little bumps of solder sticking out of some traces. I followed where the trace went and found some within range of the legs of the cap. I will most likely redo this when my wire comes in as I would like to reduce any stress on those incredibly small bumps of solder from the traces. The one leg is connected to the trace that runs under the #2 in R929


10. My board, completed. There is one old cap still on the board as I dropped one of my ceramic caps. I however spent another 45min after getting my system to work digging through my carpet very methodically. I found it and that old cap has been replaced.


Edit 2:

Controllers... My controllers seemed to work well after my full system recap. I started swapping my controllers back and forth as I played to make sure they were both the same feeling as I thought one might have had a delay in it compared to the other.

Well, some more pics to tell the story with.

1. I opened up both controllers. One looked way more used, older than the other. Although I have had them both since the day I got my Duo, some 20-23yrs ago. The main thing of notice was the turbo slider switches.


2. I cleaned up the metal on the entire piece making sure not to bend the contacts at all.


3. The cleaned up piece with the tool I used. It is a fiberglass scratch brush. I am sure there might be something better to clean it with but it seemed to work very good. My controller actually felt better than the one I didn't clean up so I opened that one up as well and there was some tarnish on those contacts as well just not near as bad. Both my controllers feel the same now. So if you have any laggy feeling in the controller this might be causing it.