@GTV reviews the Cosmic Fantasy 1-2 Switch collection by Edia, provides examples of the poor English editing/localization work. It's much worse for CF1. Rated "D" for disappointment, finding that TurboGrafx CF2 is better & while CF1's the real draw, Edia screwed it up...
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Messages - mickcris

#1
Quote from: guest on 12/03/2018, 06:38 PMI am the one who noticed this :-". Maybe I should have contacted you directly but I wanted to make sure that I was correct in my findings.
thanks for pointing it out and figuring out what was causing it.  Someone pointed me to your post. i did put the same post on all other forums i was selling these on. 

someone had mentioned earlier this year (i think) that they thought it was running hot, but i didnt think too much of it at the time as they were the 1st to mention it.  thinking back i should have looked into it at the time.
#2
It has come to my attention that there is a mistake on the 7374 PCB.  The 4th output is unused and is tied to ground while it should be floating.  This is causing the IC to run hotter than normal.  I would think the risk is fairly low as some of these have been in use for almost 2 years now.  My guess would be that it running a bit hotter will cause the amp to wear out faster.  Its also a possibility that the 4th channel could just go out and the chip return to normal temps.  The temp its running at is still below the continuous operation long term reliability max temp.  Having said that,  I have not had any reports of any of them failing yet but you may want to either modify the board or discontinue using it.

I tested one and after running for an hour, I measured it with my Fluke 87 meter and its running at 65 °C.  With the 4th output floating the temp is 30°C.  Per the data sheet:
Maximum junction temperature, continuous operation, long-term reliability is +125 °C

You can fix this by lifting that leg.  Here is pic with an arrow pointing to the pin that needs lifted
https://imgur.com/a/cMeWI3l
IMG

I found it easiest to just de-solder that side of the IC, lift/break off the leg, then re solder that side down.

If you purchased one of these and would like me to lift the pin for you or give you a refund, send me a message and I will get back to you.  I may need proof that you purchased it from me.  I will only refund ones that I sold that I had soldered. If you bought one from console5 though i will lift the pin on it.

If you want me to lift the pin, send me the pcb(s) along with a piece of paper with a return address and you email.  I will lift the pin and then send it back.

If you want a refund, send me the pcb(s) along with a piece of paper with your paypal email address.  I will then send $20 to your paypal account per amp.
#3
Quote from: guest on 05/25/2018, 01:41 PMAre you going to make more eventually? I think they are great amps and used them in my laseractive.
I dont plan on it.  I got sick of soldering them.  I was doing every one by hand so not the most efficient method.

console5 still has some kits if you are interested in soldering one together
https://console5.com/store/ths7374-rgb-pcb-kit-for-nec-turbo-grafx-turbo-duo-pc-engine.html

or if someone on here wants to get some boards made from the link above and sell them pre built that's fine too.  I just got tired of doing it.

also, mobiusstriptech informed me of this earlier today
they should be selling what is the same thing soon (not that im really supporting these guys, but that might be the only option to get on pre-soldered since i'm no longer selling them).

the v1.0 circuit was an update to micro's original with viletim's brightness fix added.  then the newest version just swapped out the ths7314 for the ths7374 and made the parts smaller.  Its still basically the same circuit from the data sheet.
https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4822.msg34061#msg34061
#4
see the 1st post.  that amp uses 75 ohm resistors which make the output too bright.
#5
since im no longer selling these, i shared the files if anyone wants to build there own
https://oshpark.com/profiles/mickcris
#6
Quote from: dangdangAs a forum member, my opinion of how a forum moderator should act isn't going to change.

Speaking as the head of the project, the time for polite lip service and apologizing for other peoples failed projects passed long ago. We're far beyond that. Instead, I'd rather just extend beta invitations to people who are interested in testing the new PCE/TG16 emulator and Polymega's user interface. So, if you're actively following this thread right now and are interested, the first 5 people to PM me will get an invite. :mrgreen:
So this can just run on a computer.  no need for the hardware?
#7
I pointed that out on page 1 of the thread on the shmups forum.  They didn't seem to care then and probably still dont.  It was also like this on their protype.
https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1289822#p1289822
#8
Odd that you pad-113 doesn't fit.  I couldn't remember what power supply I sent with it but I know I didn't modify the power input.  If that one fit your old system then it should fit the one it sold you too.  So I'm not too sure what's going on without seeing pictures.  Hopefully the one you ordered works
#9
the pad-113 is correct

https://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=repair:pcepowersupplies

which is too narrow?  the power supply plug or the input jack on the system?

if that is the one you got from me a while ago, neither the power supply nor the power input jack were modified from original.
#10
that makes sense.  probably what was happening.
#11
Quote from: Goemon on 02/11/2018, 11:01 AMTo confirm, this was indeed the red and blue being mixed.

Not sure how the CRT displayed fine, but swapping the red and blue definitely fixed this

Thanks!
were you using the same scart cable on the crt?  or were you using a composite video cable.  if you were using a composite video cable, then that would explain why the colors were correct.
#12
I had a few minutes so I rewired a console wrong (red and blue swap).  Here is what it should look like:
IMG

here is what it looks like with red and blue swapped:
IMG

here is what yours looks like:
IMG

I still think your red and blue need swapped in the cable or console.
#13
Quote from: Goemon on 01/24/2018, 06:13 PMHey,

So I took the system round to a friend's house and on both a CRT and an old LCD the picture displayed correctly, yet running through the Framemeister I get this blue effect.

So I'm not totally convinced it is wired incorrectly.

I would say it's the Framemeister but every other one of my consoles works fine through the RGB with no colour problems at all...
You used the same rgb scart cable as on your framemiester as on those 2 tvs?  I assume you are in Europe if you did.

If it was the same exact cable then I don't know what could be wrong
#14
Quote from: guest on 01/21/2018, 02:32 PMSince I have trouble to recover my adjustable power supply brick that I had shown above, I'm thinking about getting a small dedicated supply for my Turbo Duo.

10 V supplys are rather scarce. Will 9 V / 1.3 A (12 W) be fine? Those are more common. I can replace the tip with one that fits my Duo.
yes, 9v is fine.  its easier to find a power supply with at 5.5x2.1 tip.  also probably easier to find one with 1.5a or 2.0a.  these make it easy to adapt to work on a duo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-6-3x3-0mm-male-plug-to-5-5x2-1mm-female-jack-DC-Power-For-Toshiba-Laptop/142041862568
#15
i booted up that game and im 99% sure your blue and red are swapped.  you are either going to have to swap them in the cable or on the console.

as for the interference, you may need to ground the din jack better or possibly could be a grounding issue in the cable.
#16
looks like it might be missing red.  what cable are you using?  did the person that modded it supply a cable?  I have seen something similar when a genesis cable is used for a system modded like this:
IMG
IMG

edit:
looks like there is some purple so maybe just the colors are inverted.  there are 2 ways people usually wire these.  like above and like this:
IMG
#17
Yes, they should have just used a normal sized din and not bothered with c-sync as it doesn't look like the circuit they made works anyways.  Using a genesis 2 cable has always been a bad idea due to the differences in the output voltage of the pc engine and genesis. Some people prefer it though for some reason.

They did botch the rgb part of this due to little to no research prior to making it.  After some discussion over at the shmups forum, they added a 21 or 22 ohm resistor inside the system in series with the 75 ohms in the cable to make it be about 96 or 97 ohms to bring the voltage down to 0.7v.  This makes it so there is an impedance mismatch (like the amps with the 100 ohm resistor i used to sell), but it should work fine.  Although it looks like there are possibly still some issues besides the voltage that still need worked out.

Some people have reportedly already tried what proper built c-sync cables and they did not work.  I dont think anyone so far has got a c-sync cable to work.  Probably best just to use a composite video sync cable.

You should still be able to use an internal mod if you already have one installed.
#18
Quote from: guest on 01/15/2018, 04:43 PMOne of the circular tantalum caps in the lower left area was missing contact to the black botch wire. Resoldered it.
It works now?  or that was just one issue you found?
#19
I would check those tantalum caps as their failure mode can be a short.  Seems like you have a short somewhere on the board.
Also if you haven't already, check the voltage regulator that isn't outputting and make sure it's not showing a short to ground
#20
I have updated the amp with output resistor values closer to the ideal values of 86 ohm with a 586 ohm to ground.  The ideal values can only be done with 4 resistors so have changed to the closest I could get it with 2.  Now using an 86.6 ohm resistor with a 604 ohm resistor to ground.  Both resistors are 0.1% tolerance.  See the math below:

IMG
https://i.imgur.com/M22k3bg.jpeg
#21
Quote from: mickcris on 12/08/2017, 08:20 AM
Quote from: PCEngineTrev on 12/08/2017, 08:04 AMSo youd have to mess with the casing on the Super CD System to get it to fit?
it should fit.  in the video on the thread in neo geo, it shows working on a tg16. its the connector that would interfere with it not fitting.  the slot where it goes in on a TG16 is smaller. other than that, the dimensions on the back of the console are the same.

here is an example of ten no koe 2.  if you remove the extra plastic (circled in red) from the connector, it fits fine on a tg16

IMG
IMG
the hole lines up perfectly with the ac adapter plug
IMG

they said they were going to test it soon to make sure though, but i dont see why it wouldn't fit.

the issue with the pinout being different on the exp port is just when you a modding one.  this is due to the pcb being upside down in shell.  it being on the opposite side of the board makes the pins you need to solder to different from the normal pinout posted all over for the pc engine.
I may have been incorrect about this.  looks like the AV booster is designed a little different and doesn't quite slide onto a TG16 without a little more modifying of its shell.  I had never tried to put one of these on a TG16 before and didn't realize they were shaped a little differently.  Looks like this is what they designed theirs after.

They have said it might fit without modifying but are not quite sure yet.  but they also said it should fit with some slight modification if it doesn't fit right.
#22
Off-Topic / Re: Net Neutrality
12/14/2017, 12:50 PM
the vote is happening now

https://www.fcc.gov/general/live

was just watching Pai talk some BS.  Then said security is making them take a recess.

edit:
and unsurprisingly it passed
#23
I think i still have a pal system modded to ntsc.  If I do, I will try it once I get the super sd system 3.  I'm wondering if when it was tested, if they tried the original video out. I would think it might work that way. Just thinking it may have only been tried with the video connector on the super sd.

Edit:
After looking again, it looks like the creators tested it so it probably doesn't work.  Though it was gadget uk that had said the pal system didn't work
#24
Think they said it doesn't work on the pal version.   Not sure if that was just the video out or the whole thing though
#25
Quote from: Keith Courage on 12/08/2017, 07:23 AM
Quote from: Enchurito on 11/21/2017, 05:00 PMSo after trying to get my system going I've got the CD drive working (had crud in the gears) however still zero sound. Pictured is my board
http://i66.tinypic.com/c0rrm.jpg
Ugh, no fun working around the gamedoctorHK region mod.
Yeah, it sucks they only replace certain caps.  they should just replace them all while they are at it and clean the board.  but that would eat into profits i guess.
#26
Quote from: PCEngineTrev on 12/08/2017, 08:04 AMSo youd have to mess with the casing on the Super CD System to get it to fit?
it should fit.  in the video on the thread in neo geo, it shows working on a tg16. its the connector that would interfere with it not fitting.  the slot where it goes in on a TG16 is smaller. other than that, the dimensions on the back of the console are the same.

here is an example of ten no koe 2.  if you remove the extra plastic (circled in red) from the connector, it fits fine on a tg16

IMG
IMG
the hole lines up perfectly with the ac adapter plug
IMG

they said they were going to test it soon to make sure though, but i dont see why it wouldn't fit.

the issue with the pinout being different on the exp port is just when you a modding one.  this is due to the pcb being upside down in shell.  it being on the opposite side of the board makes the pins you need to solder to different from the normal pinout posted all over for the pc engine.
#27
Quote from: seieienbu on 12/07/2017, 01:47 PMJesus Christ I just checked out of curiosity and bitcoins are at $17K now.  These things are ridiculous.

edit:  Wait.  Somewhere else I'm seeing $11.7K.  That's a pretty big disparity...  What's the actual going rate of these things, I honestly have no idea...?
thats crazy. Coinbase shows it as $16,275.80

I have 0.00363669 BTC which i think was a coupe bucks left over from a payment i sent earlier in the year.  now its worth about $60.  im rich!

edit:

$16,467.22
Bitcoin price
+$2,944.99
Since yesterday (USD)
+21.89%
Since yesterday (%)

i wonder how long it will be till it crashes.
#29
I would see if Krikzz will still allow you to exchange it.  see here
http://krikzz.com/forum/index.php?topic=3287.0

even though he says it only has issues on the TG16, you may want to use it on one someday and it could have problems.
#31
yeah, that's true about the M in front of the size in MM for these.  I clarified and put self tapping before it above in case someone doesn't click on the link to see what they were.  Most, if not all, on ebay are listed that way though.
#32
original outside case screws are self tapping M3 12mm long. here are some replacements but have phillips head instead of original head

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100Pcs-M3-M3-5-M4-Phillips-Round-Head-Screw-Self-Tapping-Horizontal-Tail-Black-/262662279892

inside screws:
cartridge slot are also self tapping M3 12mm
pcb screws are self tapping M3 10mm

Link above is not the cheapest.  Just the 1st I found.  Make sure they have a flat tail.  Also called cut tail or horizontal tail.
#33
Quote from: PCEngineTrev on 10/08/2017, 04:37 PMGot a TG16 on the way over from the states, just wondering if anyone knows if any UK console power supplys work with it?

The Mega Drive 1 UK PSU works with most of the Jap PC Engine systems, but can it work with a TG16 too?
yes. the mega drive 1 ps will work
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=repair:pcepowersupplies
#34
dont think this would work.  There was a computer version of this drive that looked almost identical to the tg16 cd rom drive but was white.  it does not work though in the dock to run games on the console, but supposedly music cds will play. model number of drive is CDR-35D

https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/images1/1/1115/08/lot-parts-repair-nec-turbografx-cd_1_9c8250d6800be427abcbc1c2da75661c.jpg

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Ftwitter.com%2Fpce_repair%2Fstatus%2F901824797339815937&edit-text=&act=url
#35
General Gaming / Re: PSX modchips
07/27/2017, 07:42 AM
Quote from: bartre on 07/27/2017, 07:13 AMyeah, the problem isn't necessarily sourcing them, it's a question of what type to put in
I think MM3 works on all USA consoles and last i heard was still one of the best ones.  There is also the mayumi v4 which i think also works on all versions  of USA consoles (which i forgot about till just now). 

I was mainly answering HuMan who said he was unable to find them for sale.

here is a link to a mayumi v4 (probably can find somewhere else cheaper).  i think the main difference between them is the MM3 uses the clock on the ic and the mayumi v4 uses the clock on the console so is supposed to have more reliable boots.  either one im sure will work fine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mayumi-V4-V4-0-Modchip-for-PlayStation-PS1-PSX-Install-Kit-MM3-NTSC-Consoles-/322598366349

there is also Zer0-2k11

https://assemblergames.com/threads/zer0-2k11s-mod-chip-and-installation-shop.43131/

looks like hes out at the moment, but if you order from him he will make sure you get the right one for your model.
#36
General Gaming / Re: PSX modchips
07/26/2017, 08:25 PM
Quote from: HuMan on 07/26/2017, 07:23 PMI can't even find any PSX modchips for sale anymore. I'd like to find one to put in my PSOne with LCD screen.
I'm sure there are also other places but here is one
http://www.eurasia.nu/shop/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=276

Also here is someone selling them on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181984684080
#37
Quote from: mario64 on 07/24/2017, 09:23 PM
Quote from: mickcris on 05/28/2017, 07:18 AMregular sized 8 pin din euro scart cables now have a pcb

IMG

I was thinking this would make building them quicker but that's not really the case.  Still, they look a bit nicer than my previous cables with the all the ground jumpers.
How can I go about ordering one of these? I'm hoping it will address the audio hum from my Duo R
Sent you a pm
#38
Yeah, it's a board I put a 75 ohm resistor and 220uf cap for the comp video and also some protection caps for the audio lines.  I can include one of those boards if you want
#39
Quote from: TelcoSurveyor on 06/14/2017, 01:42 AMI would like to do this to an extra tennokoe 2 that I have laying around. Will the complete kit you sell allow me to add the composite output or just the RGB? Forgive my ignorance, as I am new to the RGB stuff.

Thanks!
the kit is just for RGB but i can include some rca jacks for you
#40
Wire looks to be connected to pin 2.  The pinout i found labels it as OSC witch I'm guessing is oscillator.  Not sure what the purpose would be.
#41
I'm surprised it still works after that damage! :)
#42
regular sized 8 pin din euro scart cables now have a pcb

IMG

I was thinking this would make building them quicker but that's not really the case.  Still, they look a bit nicer than my previous cables with the all the ground jumpers.
#43
Quote from: sonicx64 on 05/24/2017, 10:27 PM
Quote from: mickcris on 05/24/2017, 10:23 PMwhoever modded your duo-r used a different pinout on the din jack than the one that most people use.  you will either have to open the console or cable and swap wires. most likely just r and b are in different locations.
Thanks for the insight. I am not very well versed in modding and soldering. Is there someone based in North America who could help me with this? Or I may try and contact the seller of the RGB cable to see if they can make it to fit my console since they hand make them.
what city/state are you in? im sure someone can do this for you.  RCA (who you bought it from) im sure will also let you return that on and swap the wires too.  Just sometimes she can be a bit hard to get a hold of.
#44
whoever modded your duo-r used a different pinout on the din jack than the one that most people use.  you will either have to open the console or cable and swap wires. most likely just r and b are in different locations.
#45
the Rigol DS1054Z is a descent scope.  You dont need a $20K scope.
only costs about $400 and its easily hackabe (at least when i bought mine, probably still is) to the features of the more expensive model
#46
I assume it is broken in the middle somewhere.  I would think the  wires would be 2 different colors. Probably a red and a black wire

And yeah, you can also just twist them back together and cover with electrical tape in a pinch. 

If the wires aren't different colors, can just hook them up one way and measure the output to see if it's center negative or positive.  If incorrect, then switch wires
#47
Cheapest thing to do would be solder the wires back together on the one your dog chewed through.
#48
Looks like he did clean up his work a bit
#49
go to imgur.com or some other photo hosting website. upload it there and post a link.
#50
Don't 100% agree with that.  If the pins get too hot and pull out the plastic connector, it's almost impossible to fix.  Traces are easy, just run a wire to reconnect 2 points.