Topics

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WTT/WTB: CAW's wishlist]

CAW

I've never posted one of these lists; I've been lucky enough that ppl have reached out here every time I've said I needed a game so here goes. also, I plan on continuing that policy  .
Also, I have no interest in bootlegs or repros, I'd like to support the original developers if possible so this means no PCEFarks, and with sincerest apologies to turbokon I'm looking for originals after 25 years of appreciation. I want these games to play, not collect dust on a shelf. It's kinda shitty that I have to say that now and make my intentions clear, but here we are and to each their own.



Cash or Will trade for Mod Services, I can do full electolytic or SMD cap replacements, region switches, LED mods, RGB amps, laser replacements, or just get your old system back on the road with a spot repair and a trim pot adjustment for the laser. Please go to the repair section for my resume; I did the laser replacement guide, the White PCE RGB thread, and a few others. I'm a gargoyle in chat, and you can ask me questions there too about repairs. Thanks!! 

WANTED:

PCE games

Case & Instructions Only:

Tour of Hell - Jigoku Meguri
Magical Chase
Shinobi
Shubibinman

Hu-Cards/CD's (any condition, complete preferably)

Valis 1, 2, 3, 4, 5-37
Valkyrie no Densetsu
Tiger Road
Exile
Wataru!
Dead Moon
Rayxanber 3 (Not 3 Raisin bars Dan)
Monster Lair
Coryoon
Tatsujin
Genji Tsushin Agedama
Blue Blink

Genesis complete.

Master of Monsters
Sparkster
Earthworm Jim
Phantasy Star 2-4?

SNES loosey unless noted.

Legend of Mystical Ninja <-------
Secret of Mana
Chrono Trigger
Area 88
Super Metroid
Final Fantasy 6 (MUST BE LOOSE, my cousin stole it out of the box for coke money no joke.)
7th Saga (Can be complete, loose pref. Cousin, again)

PS1 complete
Lomax (US, or EU)
Tenchu 1 & 2
Bushido Blade
Tobal No.1

PS4
That Oddworld Limited Release, I was about an hour late to get it and it was sold out.
Not expecting anyone to have this.

That's about it!! Thanks in advance for your interest!!

And now, a wild Tatsujin for good luck



CAW

[High Score Records / "Nantettatte Engine" High Scores]

You know the drill.

I will update and make a banner. And update this post soon when I'm not on a broken phone.

SUBMIT GO! 


673,655 - Necromancer
339,140 - roflmao
193,375 - Phase
118,250 - MNKyDeth
103,770 - Opethian
80,315 - turboswimbz
71,640 - Punch
42,720 - SignOfZeta

[Off-Topic / AOL DIED.]

Gordtherogue has left the building. Goodbye.

Also, Discuss.

[Fighting Street / AMAZON IS DUMB]

AMAZON IS DUMB AVOCADO SEED IS NOT HAPPY
*I need to dual-post this on reddit and imgur this week and will post links.

[Off-Topic / Canuck The Crow's attacks halt Vancouver Mail delivery]

Would YOU fuck with this crow?!?!

www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-40436177



I feel like this should be in fighting street or something.

[Off-Topic / Video Game Logos & Design in the Wild]

Rules are simple, basically the title.

If you see an "out of place" video game logo or design post your photo here.

I'll start.



And if people just start posting selfies with a t-shirt or bong with Mario on it I'll lock the thread, lol
BE CREATIVES

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Doujindance = CRAP RGB Mods. DONT BUY FROM THIS SELLER (but post pics)]

If you have a system that has been fixed by this seller, please post your pics of the inside to this thread. That is the main intention of this post. To show what a trainwreck his work is. 

As far as I know, doujindance is NOT a member of our community.

Far be it from me to talk shit about a modder, because I don't offer my services very often, and certainly not commercially, but I have received several systems from this seller, doujindance, over the years. The first was in 2009, a unit purchased on eBay for $250-$270 in the days of the $75 Duo. I had just bought a broken Duo from another popular (and honest) seller, and was looking to fix it. I did, with the help of the amazing community here. I emailed doujindance when I recieved one of their units, and they never responded to my emails on eBay.

It had a spiders nest of wires running to 3 different breadboards, all of which were cobbled together and had no apparent interconnection, other than he ran out of room on the first board. I'm SURE that he understood how the F^$&(#@ thing was wired, but without any sort of reference it was like being in limbo, blindfolded, watching MacGyver, with a coathanger and chewing gum... Except it looked like he applied the gum directly over one of the chips.

Fast-Forward to 7 years later. Recently, about 5 months ago, a forum member (who will remain anonymous unless he want's to share) contacted me in a PCE chatroom and sent me internal photos of his unit. I was appalled. It was packed to the brim inside, and had these three boards, all encased in bubble wrap, floating around the system. Nothing made sense. It was a nightmare. It didn't work. We couldn't figure it out in chat. From the photos, the DIN was the only thing wired correctly.

Today I hit my limit. Voultar recently shared this photo with me, a Duo-R or RX on a system received in 2016. this may not seem like Blasphemy, but I would never work on this unit:

OG: TWMAIJl_zpsz38ihzbp.jpg

This is probably the best I've seen. Keep in mind, this is 10 years later, and they've barely improved, other than being "tidier" inside. With a feedback rating of over 1100, I have seen close to a hundred Duos offered by this seller and we can only imagine they all look the same or much, much worse. They have been a member on eBay since 2007:

https://www.ebay.com/usr/doujindance

The most recent Duo sold was for $449 plus shipping.


PLEASE POST PHOTOS of the internals of your unit, and share your stories. I will not touch this seller's work with a 20-foot pole. I just have sent them back (eating the shipping) and apologized to the user, saying that I have no freaking clue how the units are wired, and that they should send them back to the seller.

Thank you all for listening to my warning; but If you want a RGB, Region, or mod please contact ANY OTHER MODDER instead of this person. I would name you all, but I wouldn't want to put your amazing work in the same thread as this two-bit hack who has been ripping people off for a decade.

/warning
---

There are so many amazing people here who have contributed to the forums, and to the improvement of the NEC PCE (Duo).
I owe you all a debt of gratitude, and thank you for your endless contributions to keeping this system alive. 

caw

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Original PC Engine (White) RGB Amp Installation & Overhaul Guide]

Hello again!

Over the past few days I've been working on installing an RGB amp into an original (white) PC Engine #PITG001, and have run into several difficulties and differences from the other PC Engine/TurboGrafx 16 systems. There is also no repair thread associated with the Original PCE, So I figured I would use this opportunity to explain some of the differences between the Original PCE and the Coregrafx/Coregrafx II. Credit is due to thesteve for constant hacking/guru help in chat literally every step of the way and telling me what to do, chop5 for counterpoint, and BlueBMW for the Coregrafx chart that I will reference later.

Day #1:



While digging around looking for a file to clean up a casemod, I came across this Original White PCE that I had forgotten about in a box with some PSP stuff. I plugged it into my IFU, and I had no power, so I pulled it apart and began the journey of tracking down the problem... The PCE would pulse in the IFU like crazy.



Opening Up the case, everything looked DECEPTIVELY clean, with the exception of the clunky old RF port, (top right on the chipboard) that looks like a piece of 8-bit tech from a William Gibson novel. I then decided to check the underside of the unit for any obvious problems.

I found the grounding plate soldered on two points that lifted clean off with the touch of an iron. I then was looking at the bottom of the board:


 
I ran the wires for the RGB amp off of the Expansion Bus, following the RGB Amp guide on TG16PCEMODS.com, and powered the system on, to check the voltage to the BUS. I then did the Jailbar Fix, installing the two blue caps on C131 and C135. Everything read correctly.



The Next step was to remove the cyberpunk RF port...



...3 solder points on the bottom that go a heck of a lot quicker with a fine-tipped iron and some flux. I don't have a de-soldering station and didn't have a torch handy, so i just took my time with a wire braid and took it all out. It is important to note that the three holes that hold the RF port in are ground, so you should re-fill them with solder when the port is removed for easy access to ground when installing the RGB chip or Region Mod. The back of the port is connected to three tiny pins, which are video, sound, and ground. desolder them from the bottom of the board after you get the 3 main points off.



This felt like a good logical time to stop for the night.

Day #2:

Aargh. That was fun. But at least that damn RF port is gone now and you can finally open up the systems true potential! The RF signal is nothing short of terrible, and while I have been playing games on composite for all these years, I wanted to get the eye-popping colors i used to see in arcades when I was younger... so on to building the 8pin DIN connector! When you assemble it, make sure that the R, G, and B signal are separate, using a thin-gauge wire (30AWG Kynar is recommended, but I didn't have any).



It looks like Spiderman! Now that the switch is assembled, I Remembered the mounting issue, and opened up the PCE and stared at it for awhile. The gaping hole leaves a lot of mounting questions (get your mind out of the gutter ), but the real trick here is that the LEFT front ground pin on the DIN8 centers the plug perfectly in the system.



I assembled the completed switch and cut ALL of the pins except the two grounds: The left front pin, and the center pin for the DIN8. I then soldered the left front pin to the front RF hole (above), and hot-glued the switch into place once resistance was confirmed at the plug... and then came the wierdness. Checking the plug, I realized that It was putting out 9V instead of 5, and that there was absolutely no power past the power switch. It just...stopped at a point under the heatsynch... It was the fuse!! Without the parts, I put the project away for the next night.

Day #3:

...I thought it was over, and I went to test, and..... NOTHING. Then I realized I had the grounds incorrect, so I ran them correctly, then made a quick trip to the electronics store to get the 1uf 50v caps and the fuse that blew the circuit out. I disassembled everything the 7805, fuse, heatsynch, and caps, and replaced the fuse. An open circuit yielded R, G, and B flashing in repetition, so I knew the DIN was correct! I then installed the caps.



...And then something went horribly wrong. I was trying for three days to get this thing working with steve and chop's help, and i didn't even notice that the grey CABLE WAS COMPLETELY DISCONNECTED. I made 20 cuts and stripped the wire, and desoldered JP101.



Then I reattached all 21 points on the card-side of JP102.



Almost immediately after I did this, the other three cable connections snapped off in the same way  . This put me at 21/84 connections on the cable, so I did the most important thing I could do, and unplugged the iron for the night and poured myself a stiff drink.

Day 4:

Gearing up for what is one of the most annoying repairs I have had to do, I got plenty of coffee and and prepared for soldering about 100 connections. There were at least 76 more to be done on the cable side of things so I prepped the main circuitboard, and removed all of the soldering slag and bits of wire. I then cleaned the area with alcohol to make sure there was a clean surface...



...and then followed suit with the second cable on the Hu-Card slot. It was already disconnected so it was pretty darn easy to completely desolder JP102. JP 101 was attached from yesterday and holding on pretty well.



I cleaned the boards again, and positioned the unit in the casing of the PCE, and changed the batteries in my headlamp to get the best view of the repairs. With a needlenose pliers I bent each of the pins at a 45-degree angle and they went into the main board clean, save for some stuck stands that took time to work through. I then bent the pins back and soldered the wires from the bottom of the board. Cable JP102 went on clean.



Instead of immediately reattaching the bottom of the cable, it was time to do the oBey mod to save an extra disassembly in the long run.

I had the Hu-Card slot apart, and after looking at it I thought "I could finish a region a region mod on this fucking thing in an hour or so, everything is already apart, and for the first time I don't have to dig through tons of wires to cut the pins and solder through the board!" I grabbed the remaining oBey chip I had from turbokon, and did a quick install that lasted just over an hour, the chip went in clean, and I used purple wire for PCB side, and orange wire for the Hu-Side. Everything was flat as the slot was removed completely from the base of the system



It was then time to reattach the 42 pins on the base of the system, and now that the top-ed was completed, it was much easier to put together the two assembly's. I used the method that Ergot talked about when he posted earlier today, and soldered the two ends of the cable to keep the ribbon's geometry intact, and not tug on any extra wires. The next photo doesn't have the end soldered to show the length of wire left to allow the bend and not do any further damage a the solder points. You can see the oBey chip fuzzy in the background.



The most annoying part of the repair came next, where I had soldered two of the wires on JP101 too close to the board, and they suffered the same fate as the pre-repaired cable, and snapped right off. I cut the ends, pulled the wire through the bottom of the board with the iron at the top, and cut back the two wires (one of which, wire #3 facing the camera is 5v power) and did a spot-repair with the leftover purple wire. The shrink-tubing is there to remind me that the wire is +5v.



Going through all of these and adding the surprise region mod was tedious and I played with the length of the exposed wires again to make sure that I got a clean bend and that there were no stress points. I repositioned the main board with the soldered top assembly into the case to hold everything steady and got ready to gently bend back the cable assemblies and hope that it tests correctly.



...I then noticed that the 1A car fuse had popped again, and that I had no power to the main board. I took the extra fuse that I bought (just in case) and reinstalled, and tested with the meter. My suspicion before even testing the unit was that the pulsating power issue remained, so as soon as I had power to the main board, I hooked up the oBey chip to power, and tested. It registered across the meter on the pins and with 5V power. I unplugged the console, and slowly and carefully bent the ribbon cable back into place. The whole time, I'm thinking "No Whammies, No Whammies".



...Man it looks slick, but I powered it on in the IFU and STILL, the repetitive power surging that must have blown the fuse. On the RGB PVM, a green screen that fades to turquoise and then deep blue (not the game). So it's still dead, with the original issue. Everything has power, and the chips ARE working confirmed with the meter, and the game is playing on the board, but it not being exported. All pins on DIN8 are putting out proper voltage, all caps reading on the meter... but still this wierd short. Steve said that it was a power overload.

If I can't get this thing working I'm going to make it into a necklace and wear it like Flava Flav.

Day #5:...

So after hacking this unit up I got to the point where I couldn't figure out what was wrong, and I sent it to thesteve for testing and repair. The following post will show what steve did to correct the work and get everything working perfectly!

--

I will keep updating this until I get the project finished.

Goonies Never Say Die

le (hard)caw

[High Score Records / Syd Mead's "Terraforming" High Scores]

<Insert Banner Here>

Hey everyone, Welcome to the Terraforming High score list! Please post your results and I'll do my best to keep it updated.

#1: 5,525,879 - Necromancer
#2: 1,627,905 - blueraven (LOL)

MOAR.

--
#2: You?
#3: That other guy on youtube that got 1,600,000 on Galaga '90
#4: Probably Tatsujin
#5: maybe ceti
#6: Necromancer?
#7: teh Jebus
#8: blueraven - 176,487

[Buy/Sell/Trade / n00B Sauce Contest: The Quest For Hueycardo (KC)]

Dear n00B's,

It has come to my attention that many of you are getting left out of raffles... So this is a challenge to prove yourselves, get your post count up, and post more actively on the forum!! I want you to show that you are INTERESTED and want to CONTRIBUTE. Welcome all n00B's, to the Quest For Hueycardo.

WTF EVERYONE NEEDS TO HAVE A COPY OF KEITH COURAGE. WHY DO YOU NOT HAVE KEITH COURAGE?!?!?!?!?!?!




RULES:

1. You must have MORE than 25 or LESS than 1000 posts OR be new and have a forum member speak up for you.
2. You must not own a physical copy of the game (Emulators OK)
3. You must promise to play AND NOT SELL this game (Aunt Edna is watching you from beyond the grave, and she sees you fapping to it)
4. You have to post a SCREENSHOT of a game YOU PLAYED to this thread HERE. No links to google or pcedaisakusen, or someone else's screenshots. 
5. You will be automatically disqualified If you are: A known gouger, flipper, Joe Redifer, or person of ill repute (WMAC, I'm lookin' at you, bub.)
6. I AM THE DECIDER
7. Once these are completed, I will add your userID to the list

If you win, you will receive the game free and clear!

n00B ENTRANTS:

1.
2.
You?

I hope this encourages you to be an active part of this forum, and not the archetypical focal point of our wrath and fury. BECAUSE THAT HAPPENS, MAN. Good luck!

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB/WTT 3 manuals, 1 tray]

Hey Everyone, I need a couple things to clean up my CD shelf.

Looking For...

1 Dungeon Explorer Manual
1 Buster Brothers Manual
1 Addams Family Manual

...and
1 Hu-Card insert tray

I'm not totally sure what the value of this is as I've been absent for the last couple of years, but I remember these being dirt common so was thinking $20 total (you could buy a pizza! Everyone loves pizza!), or $30 worth of PS2/XBOX games (a stack) that aren't sports. If I've severely undercut the value of these things, I'm sure I will hear about it and correct accordingly.

Thanks!

le CAW

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Teh What Turbo Sequel Do You Want Thread]

Xanadu 3, Exile 3, Cosmic Fantasy 5, and if I want to include games i can just play on another system,

Double Dragon 3, Ninja Gaiden 3.

And we always need more Master Higgins.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Legend Of Xanadu Pt.1 (Kaze No Densetsu) Walkthrough]

In light of everyone deciding to play through Xanadu Pt. 1, I have started the game again, and will post this Level by Level so we can actually get through this one. Done with help from BT Garner, and marcoux[at]star.enet.dec.com who contributed much to the original walkthrough. Thanks for being patient guys; This won't turn into a vaporthread.
---

Title Screen:
1. Start the game with Cinema
2. Start the game without the Cinema
3. Resume Saved Game

Make sure you have your memory formatted, and that there is enough to support Xanadu which will not save if there is insufficient RAM.

AREA 1:

Tips: Area 1 is included in the map that comes with the game, so get familiar with it very early on. Lots of interaction is required here between yourself and the townsfolk. Talk to everybody TWICE to make sure that there is no dialogue change, because sometimes the townsfolk are stubborn, and forgetting to talk to someone can make you LOLRAGE at your Turbob. Be sure to enable SPD and MSG in the menu which will double your speed, and double the message speed and eliminate the beeps.

- MAKE SURE YOU GET A SWORD. You come completely unequipped, so buy the big $150 sword from the guy in the first town (Ikteia).

- When you first talk to the Nun at the Wing-Altar-Chruch-Temple place she gives you the low down that this is where you will end up when you begin each area. You also get 2 pills (vicodin?) which restore some of your life. Use them sparingly in the beginning. You can sleep in the beds here for free to re-up your life. Do this as often as possible.

- Level Arios all the way up, then head to the northernwestern area of the map. Go past the mountains until you see a single yellow slime, and you will know you're in the right area. Keep heading north until it finally curves east, and you will run into the mini-slime. He's the little off-color and smaller blob-dude who is scared of you. He doesn't fit in with the other blobs. Completely disarm yourself, and talk to him, you will have to answer yes to the questions twice (hai), and he will join you! You now have your first NPC character.



- After you get the blob, people will start closing their doors, you have to go back and talk to everyone. Head to the cave in the northwest, making sure to head north from the Lumberjacks house, and then slightly to the right as you're going north, so you don't exit the mountain range. Enter the Cave. Run through it and grab all of the treasure chests. When you get to the southeastern portion of the area, you will see 8 barrels sticking out of the ground. Try to open one, then head back to town.



- At this point you need to talk to everyone, then head to the western town, and find the man in the red hat who is in bed with illness. Talk to him twice, and he will tell you about his ailment. Then head to the most northeastern town (Bolder), and talk to the old man (Toma) at the top of the village. Then get your ass back to the cave and go to the room with the barrels, which will trigger an event. Leave the cave, and you will run into a green-haired kid that takes off running. Head back to the western town, and talk to the man in the red hat, who is feeling better.

- Then run back to Bolder where 5 people are waiting to talk to the green-haired kid (Nicola) who bumped into you. There seems to be some interest in your slime. Go north to the Northern town (Kasta) to knock on Melina's door. She still wont let you in. In the same town, go and talk to the village Elder, which is the next house over. Then, go one house south and knock, and the girl will have a dialogue with Arios. NOW you can go and talk to the violet-haired Melina, who will give you the carte blanche pass to to and talk to the Luberjack/Woodsmith Theo.  Go to Theo's house in the mountains, where he is now willing to meet with you, and has a long dialogue with Arios. Theo invites him inside, and gets pretty dramatic after hearing about the quest. He goes to the bookshelf and gets you a book from it.



- Now you need to head to Bolder again and talk to the Elder. This causes another event, where he rings the bell for the town to call a meeting. The townspeople come running. They bring Nicola back, and then disperse. Head to Kasta, and go to Nicola's house and talk to him after his parents let you in. Head to the house directly to the west, and talk to the blonde haired man. The neighbor's house to the north is now empty. The people in the West village are now missing too. Head back to Theo's house, and give him back the book. Head back to the cave, and the people from the West Village will meet you at the entrance.  Head inside, back to the room with the barrels. This triggers another event. Theo runs into the room with his shovel. Exit the cave, and the people from the Western town meet you at the entrance. Then go the the innkeeper at Ikteia, right next to the weapon shop and talk to her. Then go talk to the elder in Bolder and talk to him. Then go talk to the elder in Kasta due North. I then talked to people until the guards to the ship in Ikteia showed up. The event, happens, the music changes, and the difficulty goes up.



- Go to Bolder, and talk to the blue haired dwarf looking dude in the center house. He's stoked to see you. Run all the way back to the western town to talk to the man with the red hat. also totally freaking happy to see you. Go back into the cave to look for Theo. This will trigger an event. Now you have to escort the 4 lost West village people who are standing next to treasure chests in the first part of the cave. Then talk to Theo and they will all dip out. Head back to the western town, and one of the ladies will give you 100 gems. Go back to Toma's house in the town of Bolder and Theo will be waiting there with him. Talk to Theo. Go find Azzak, the village elder, and talk to him. The whole town is at his house. This is where you get the boulder key. Head to Kasta, get the staff, and head back to the cave to the metal doorway at the top of the dungeon.



- Get ready for the cake and martini reward that you have just have earned.




AREA 2:

Tips: Area 2 is also included in the map that comes with your CD. Get to know it. You've beaten the first level, but you still have a very long way to go (...tower? ...whu?). This is the level where you get Daimos and Lykos, the fighter and thief (wait... my Avatar is... some other guy  ) who help you on your Journey. The game opens up a whole new level of kickass with the NPC aspect, so get ready for some action. Level up your weapons as soon as possible and blow the rest of your money on health pills. You will be looting hand over fist soon enough, so don't worry about spending Gems. The Only way to travel between the two towns is by boat.



- You are in the town DokuSano (Sunny Dock). Go to the bar directly south of the chapel and have a dialogue with the bartender. Then go and talk to the blue-haired man sitting at teh table to the right. they will tell you where you are. Next, head north to the Jail, where you will trigger an event with the guards. If you try and enter too late, the night watchman will inform you that the jail is closed. The men outside are talking about a bounty. Talk to the orange-haired kid (Patrick) who will then start talking to a man in a yellow hat, (Paul, ahem.... Guess Who?). Paul runs off. Follow him back to the bar and talk to him. Now, speak with the eye-patched head of the Guards, Hikara.

- Go to the village next door (Miserable), keeping in mind that the dead will rise from their graves at night and attack you. Talk to the man in the lower right house, who will extort 50 gems from you for his info. Head to the elder's house north, and you tell him that "Paul" sent you over on a mission. In the meantime, go kick some Zombie ass!! Leave the village and go spend a night in the Chapel at Sunny Dock.



- Head back to the Elders house and Paul will be waiting for you there. He falls asleep after talking about the Kuroroso (Cursed Town) folks. Wait until nightfall, then head north in Sunny Dock to the right of the chapel and you will find Paul hanging out in the alley. After a heated exchange with Arios, and explaining the situation in Miserable, (presumably why the people are cursed and the bounty on Lykos' head) he takes off running, scared. Go to sleep at the chapel, and then head north in the morning to the jail. Paul will meet you and another event will take place. He will take you away from the guards and impart important information to you. Paul will then remove his disguise, and reveal himself as Lykos!! The guards immediately arrest him and take him to jail. 



- Go and talk to Hikara about Lykos. He informs you of the thief's crimes and misdemeanors. You now can take the boat across the ocean to the other town of Kurorosu (Cursed Town). The broken Chapel here has a bed you can sleep in if you like. Head to the cave, and remember to pay attention to the grey squares on the ground. They have arrows which point to subsequent areas, but this isn't really in your face. Trigger the two touch-plates on the left in the first area, enabling a glass barrier up top that will allow you to cross into the next room. On the far east area in the north of the cave, follow the fake wall into a room that will give you a free set of armor. Head back south, to the area where there are 2 blue orbs are firing at you. Run up to the top left area (*Next Photo), and hit the action button; Arios will activate the hidden switch which will activate the next platform. 



- Head to the next floor, and after picking up the treasure chests, you will find Daimos in the northeastern area of the cave, surrounded on all four sides by water, held up by a force-field. Grind your way back out of the cave, and head back to the Inn at Kurorosu. Take the boat back to Sunny Dock, and go speak with Lykos at the jail cell he is in. Go to Miserable, and talk to the old man in the bottom right house. Arios will mention the key to the dungeon, and the water trap Daimos is stuck in. He asks you for 200 gems. Go to the village elders house, and... Paul will be waiting there for you. He has the longest dialogue thus far in the game, and and tells you how to get around the water. SURPRISE! It's actually Lykos, and he joins your party! When you leave the town, he appears in disguise as "Paul". Head back to sunny dock, where you need to talk to the thief who is posing as Lykos. Go to the guards house and speak with all of them, telling them about Daimos. Head to the bar, and speak with the Kurorosu people, and then finally the bum who comes in at closing who tells you about the secret passage in a drunken stupor.



Go to Miserable. Try to talk to the Kurorosu people who have moved into Miserable. They are incredibly rude. Head back to Kurorosu. Go to the Inn, where an event will happen. Lykos finds the hidden passage next to the bed in the back room! There is a nun underneath the room, hiding out from the undead. Sister Anita tells you about how to unlock the force-field, and that it will require 2 people to do the job. Head back to the area where Daimos is trapped. Keep running around to the southwest of the dungeon, and Lykos will notice something about the monsters. Head north to the great oak tree above Kurorosu. Sister Anita is waiting for you. Wait until 9PM, kill the 2 zombies, then talk to Sister Anita. She will summorn a Water mage, who has a dialogue with Arios, and Lykos demands a payment. Ariso, pissed off, pushes Lykos and then FELL IN A HOLE. Lykos and the water mage follow suit, and he cuts a path for you to get to Daimos, and then peaces out. Daimos then Joins the party.



So then, you run into a CLUSTERFUCK of skeletons, and if your armor isnt completely maxxed out, it probably will be after this encounter. You get mobbed, and then curiously the tiles hammer a downward angle at you (See 3rd photo above). Follow them and walk into the wall, and follow the secret path. The next arrow in the tiny room will lie to you telling you to head down. If you do, you will be led into a secret area that spirals to nowhere. Head up and follow the path around to the room with the 3 switches. Enter them 1, 3, 2 = and they will activate a switch. Head back, and if you go to the left again Arios will say that it is too far to reach. Run around directly under the right orb while hitting the action button, and the hidden foot-switch will trigger the bridge. open up the next glass bridge where you got mobbed by the skeletons. Head north...

- Another totally killer castlevania-style side-scrolling stage!! The reward for beating Level 2! YOU DID IT!!



But its not over yet! You can't put the controller down. You still have 10 levels and TEH TOWER ...Have you given up yet?

Now... Your moment of Zen.



AREA 3:

---

[Fighting Street / teh "How did you get fired?" thread aka BLAZING LAZERS]

Enter Ye hardships here.

I'll start. I was put on probation from my first job in 1995 bagging groceries after I called in "sick" to work. Boss said there were customer complaints that I was too slow and apparently I massively fucked up this old lady's loaf of white bread, which was a goddamn cardinal sin in this place. These accusations were lies. A lot of old people have nothing better to do then bitch about young people trying to make shit money to buy beer and records and pc engine. It was one of those grocery stores where they opened like 10 locations in the state, and the owner wore this stupid-ass hat all of the time, did all of the commercials on local tv, and had this Jesus-like cult of personality. I got paid $5.75 an hour to be a mule, and I'm telling you, the employees licked his boots and worshiped him like a god. You could get fired for smoking a cigarette on cart duty as well. I had to wear a tie and hard-soled shoes to do that job, and in the winter, the only reprieve from your shirt and tie was to wear a football sweatshirt on pre-approved NFL Sundays. Their holiday bonuses were $10 in-store credit vouchers. The training videos were Eisenhower-era, the break room in a cement catacombs, and the assistant manager was so beaten into submission he would actually twitch when the employees would come around. They were anti-union. The "Enforcer", or loser brother of the owner who was paid a managers salary to walk around and talk shit. The employees referred to him as "Easy Money" and he had an orca-fat wife who was insanely mean to me because I accidentally witnessed her having an argument and she slapped the shit out of her dickhead husband. She ran the floral department and hated him, I assume by what she said while slapping him, for being impotent. After finally not wanting to take "Easy Money's" shit anymore I told the him to fuck off in front of the same white bread old lady, and he asked me to "hand in my tie". I told him I was keeping the tie. He told me "We'll hold your check until you turn in your tie!" I replied, "My check is only $11.50, dickhead." and security threw me out. I got my $11.50 check the next week and kept the tie. I think I still have it.

The place went bankrupt in 2006, shortly after the owner died.

[Fighting Street / FORUM NINJAS]

I have created this post to say FUCK YOU to the bastard that hacked the forum.

That said, feel free to trash him accordingly, or just post photos of ninjas that can kick his ass. 

[Fighting Street / Gamestop = FAIL]

Discuss.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Boxing Day Giveaway!! - F1 Circus Special Pole To Win SCD!]

In a show of solidarity to our Canadian friends (but not limited to Canada), a Boxing Day Giveaway!

Plus I think the holiday is pretty cool, in concept.

F1 Circus Pole to win CD - LOOSE Minor scratching, but it plays fine. FREE and shipped to your door.

Reply to this thread with your favorite Boxer (Yes, I know it's political and related to the workforce, the whole reversal of roles with the workers and bosses, etc. btw, ) and I'll enter you into the contest!!

EDIT: You do NOT have to be Canadian to enter this contest!

 

CONGRATULATIONS TO GOGAN!!



Entrants:
RR1980
Duo_R
The Chief
turbogrfxfan
BlueBMW
Gogan
Opethian
ceti alpha

[Off-Topic / teh PCEngineFX Fix-It-Kitty (aka lolAnimals) thread]

I'll start.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / REPAIR GUIDE - PCE|TurboDuo/R/RX: CD Laser Swap & Adjustment Guide]

Hello Everyone,

I will have the differences between the PCE/Turbo/Duo-R listed in the next few weeks; one of each is in for repair right now. If people would like to chime in with tips, corrections, or additions, please do so and I will update the guide. A section on adjusting the posts will be towards the end as soon as I have gathered all the information.  For each successful repair you will need:

1 HOP-M3 Laser
1 Duo (Turbo Duo, PCE Duo, Duo-R, Duo-RX)
1 Torx T-10 bit/screwdriver with a security center (Japanese Systems)
  OR
1 5/16" Gamebit (USA Turbo Duo)
1 Small bottle of White Lithium or Clear Silicone Grease
5 #40 x 1/2" Phillips head pan screws to replace the T-10's (optional)

PC Engine Duo (Black):


_{pce-duoswap001.jpg}

There are two generations of the PCE Duo, this being the first gen with the "Large Capacitor" as chop5 has pointed out.  First, flip the duo over and pull out each of the five Torx T-10 screws. A T-10 Security Torx Bit with recessed center point can be purchased at Sears or a Hardware store. A regular flat t-10 can be used but it's harder to navigate around the center security bit and you risk rounding out the screw.

sears.com/t10-security-tee-insert-bit-tools
power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/2629392
product_image/27SBT10.jpg

_{pce-duoswap002.jpg}

Once you remove them, put them in a small cup or shot-glass to make sure you have easy access to them I recommend replacing them with a comparable Phillips head (take one of the screws to your local Ace or True Value Hardware Store and get five #40 x 1/2" pan screws) so you don't have to deal with the headache again.

Now that the system is open, carefully lift the cover directly off of the board and bottom casing. Take your time so you don't harm any of the internals.


_{pce-duoswap003.jpg}

NOTE: The unit pictured has had a complete cap replacement with green hi-temp NTK capacitors, so if yours are small and silver, don't panic, this is the normal OEM setup. Now, Zooming In on the Laser area...

The motor for the laser (silver cylinder, top of photo 4) is a typical 9V motor that can be found at a hobby store and can be tested for continuity with a 9v battery due to the PCE Duo's 9V voltage. It's hard to get the dang thing back in, de-soldering the wire is the easy part, just watch those gears. The very tiny screws are aluminum, and non-magnetic so make sure you have a steady hand if you have to replace the motor. I've only seen one go bad, ever so I would bet this is not the issue. Make sure to add some extra White Lithium Grease at this point to ensure your gears stay properly lubricated.


_{pce-duoswap004.jpg}

Carefully, and not forcing it, lift the laser cover off from the bottom right-hand corner of the cover, it should click right off, and pull away to the left; always make sure not to disturb the laser or the wires.


_{pce-duoswap005.jpg}

Now that we have the laser cover off, we can see what the laser really looks like and what it is connected to. The laser slides across two metal posts that hold it on its track, and it connects to the motor and two gears via the top track which is part of the laser assembly. The HOP-M3 is connected to the motherboard by two ribbon cables; the white connector on the top, and the red connector on the bottom.


_{pce-duoswap006.jpg}

Presumably your laser has been returned to the origin position, next to the spindle, like in the next photo. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, FORCE THE LASER at this point, for risk of harming the fragile plastic gears. Next, very gently; unplug the two connectors (the white first, then the red) applying equal pressure on both sides of the connectors, so you don't harm them or pull a wire off or out of the plug(s).

At this point we must Zoom in again to the right-hand side of the laser assembly, specifically the two black plastic 90 degree screws that hold the tracks in place (note: the tracks are not held in on the left side, so be careful when removing them so you don't pull wire or move too quickly).   


_{pce-duoswap007.jpg}

At this point the black screws need to "opened" so the laser can be lifted up and slid off the tracks. Using a Phillips head screwdriver, turn each of the screws 90 degrees CCW.

Now, carefully; lift the tracks from the right side at a very gradual angle (almost vertical at first) to first unseat the track from the gears, and then lift the tracks up and to the left to  slide off the old laser. Remember that on the left side the tracks are in a seat, and not connected to anything.


_{pce-duoswap008.jpg}

The New HOP-M3 arrived from Electronix.com, in a sealed blue plastic bag. The price was around $22 plus shipping. The customer service reps were very friendly, and they give volume discounts with the more you buy. Here is a direct link to the laser, don't let the stock photo fool you. If you don't get the correct one they will make your order right.

archive.org/cd-dvd-cd-pickups-c-435_440_450_456
electronix.com/cd-pickup-hopm3-p-14472.html - No longer in business/stock, try eBay!
Model: HOP-M3, Cost: $18.95



_{pce-duoswap009.jpg}

Make sure to use plenty of white lithium grease on the tracks after the re-installation of the new laser, and make sure to lay it down vertically initially as to not harm the gears again. Lube the gears with plenty of grease, and also the arm for the motor, which may be close to dry as well.

Once the new laser is back in place secure the tracks by putting them flat, and turning the black plastic lock-screws 90 degrees clockwise. Now that the HOP-M3 is physically installed, clip back in the two wire connectors; red first, white second, applying even pressure on both side while taking care to not to force it, or harm the laser. You should feel a "click" upon successful re-installation of the clips. Make sure they're on there tight.

At this point, your Duo should look like Image #6. Re-install the dust cover for the CD; without it it is very common to get a "Set Disc Error". Angle it downward towards the left top corner, and install that corner first, then apply even pressure while clicking down on the bottom right side. The dust cover should set nicely back into place.

Your Laser is now physically installed.


_{pce-duoswap0010.jpg}

Provided your Duo does not need a Pot adjustment, You can close it back up. Remember to replace the security bits with the Phillips head screws.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / blueraven's NeverMoar Freebies... Now with added Raffles!]

A bag of nothing free to the first person who responds. ALSO...

If you want any of these games, please send me $2.50 shipping plus $1 shipping per additional game. Free to the first person who wants them, and I will strikethru the ones that are spoken for as soon as I receive a pm. 



---- Master System

Missile Defense 3-D

---- Genesis

Jack Nicklaus' Power challenge golf

---- XBOX

Xbox Magazine Disc #20 - NBA Street Vol.2, Gladius, Inside Pitch 2003, Jurassic Park: Operation Genesis. FREE SHIPPING when you buy another game

---- XBOX 360:

Harry Potter & The Goblet of Fire
Star Wars Episode III: Return of the Sith
Splinter Cell

---- Gamecube

The Sum of All Fears

---- PS1

Madden 2000
NBA Live 2000

---- PS2

007 Nightfire
Lord Of The Rings: Fellowship of the Ring
Jax & Dexter - Greatest Hits
The Incredibles - Greatest Hits
Namco Museum Vol.2 - LOOSE (free shipping when you buy another game)
Prince Of Persia: The Sands of Time
Splashdown
WWE Smackdown Vs. Raw



---- Win 95/98 CD:

Lemmings & Oh No! More Lemmings! on PC CD-Rom Out to Soviet Conscript

----
edit: Thread Updated Please wait for Moar!

[High Score Records / "Insanity" High Scores]

Why is Insanity not already on this forum? I will update with a banner this week and assume Arkhan's is a million bajillion on Devil Mode. Please submit your high scores and I will post them diligently.

Predator Mode:

1. Jasonbar: 30,030
2. Necromancer: 28,640
3. Roy The Sunderer: 23440
4. TheClash603: 20760
5. Tablet: 8100

Arcade Mode:

1.
2.
3.

Hyper Mode:

1.
2.
3.

Normal Mode:

1. Gogan - 35760
2. blueraven - 9810
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
...

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Have you ever found an unexpected Spine Card?]

I was opening the manual for Xanadu II to check for something and out fell a slightly battered but complete spine card!

This is the second time this has happened, once with the Japanese Version of Exile II from an American seller...

Has anyone else had the same or a similar experience?

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB/WTT: Arcade Card PRO - Controller FOUND]

Hey Everyone,

Looking for an OG Red/White PC-Engine controller (Turbo preferably or non-turbo) and an Arcade Card PRO or Syscard 3.0 - BRIEFCASE NOW COMPLETE Thanks guys!



A Japanese syscard 2.0 or 2.1 will have less of a priority, but I will take them into consideration if no-one has an Arcade Card Pro or a Syscard 3.0 down the road.

I have teh Paypal monies, or in trade;

 - I can build a high-quality aftermarket power supply for about $16 my cost.

 - I have one high-quality Aftermarket A/V cable from pcenginesales (forum member, and eBay userid the same) that will work on most PC Engine/Turbo Duo systems, save for the white PC Engine and the original TurboGrafx-16.

 - I can fit you into the next retr0bright session with a few stipulations (to make sure your system stays safe)

Thanks in advance!!

------
edit(s):
- Syscard 3.0 Found 10/6/2010
- Controller (OG) Found 11/29/2010

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / PC Boy]

Spotted this PC Boy on eBay, can anyone shed any light as to how this fits into the Turbo Grafx / PC Engine chronology?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEC-TURBO-GRAFX-16-COMPATIBLE-SYSTEM-PC-BOY-PAL-220V-/320457941176?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4a9cc820b8

Any info on this would be interesting, thanks.

[Fighting Street / Will You Miss Fighting Street?]

Vote Early, Vote Often.

[Off-Topic / Pac-Man picked up by Cassini on a Moon]

Pac-Man on the moon Mimas  

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/8594101.stm

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB White PCE]

FOUND. 3/31/2010

Thanks for the help everyone.

-----

Original white Console in any state of condition (disrepair OK). Controller & cables optional, working or not working. All I ask is that the console is complete.

I plan to Retrobrite/Bleach/Whiten it, replace the all the capacitors and attach it to my CDROM2 and Interface Unit/Briefcase.

Thanks in advance 

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB: Legend Of Xanadu Pt.2]

Xanadu pt. 2.... Wanted COMPLETE. Spine card preferable, no scratches on the CD, Paypal only. PM me with offers and please be reasonable.

Thanks!

P.S. I'm a eBay seller with 400+ feedback, no negatives and I will send my userid to you upon request.

[Fighting Street / Shinobi vs. Strider Hiryu]

Round 1, Fight!!!

[Fighting Street / Dynastic Hero vs. Hero Tonma]

Round 1, Fight!!!

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Favorite Ys Game]

Ok; Which Ys, then state your platform and why. I originally wanted this to just be Turbo, but that's impossible.

Then I found this:

http://hg101.classicgaming.gamespy.com/ys/ys.htm

List edited to reflect current Ys Games. 

[Off-Topic / Drug Raid Takes Back Seat to Nintendo Wii]

 

http://www.asylum.com/2009/09/22/drug-raid-takes-back-seat-to-nintendo-wii/?ncid=bannadusaolp00000002

[Console Repair/Mod Center / REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Battery Tray/Connectors]

Hey Everybody,

I came across a pretty narfed TurboExpress on eBay. The previous owner either left the batteries in for YEARS, or it was stored in a damp place, where water seeped into the battery port. Regardless, the inside of the battery port was covered in acid and rust, and two of the connectors had broken off. (top right, and bottom center). This photo is after the cleaning. I used a scoring pad, a toothbrush and 70% alcohol to remove the corrosion, then used a needle-nose pliers to remove the pieces of the two rusted connectors.

**I made sure to mind the little plastic clip-tabs that held the original wires in. (6 tabs on the TOP of this photo, horizontal with the BLUE ARROW holding in the battery connectors)  If these break, its gonna be tricky. I used a fine jewelers flathead screwdriver to clean them up, and followed up with alcohol on a q-tip. 



With the chop5 's advice, I went to Ace Hardware, and tried to find some bare wire with a comparable thickness to replace the original coiled connectors. I went with the cheapest; 1.2mm 18 gauge aluminum wire. $1.99 for 50 feet and I can now make 70 more of these. I recommend trying a bit smaller, firmer wire (for the coil-spring effect) but this soft stuff will do for now. Stainless steel or Steel Plated wire will work better in the long run for connectivity.


   
Grabbing a set of needle nose pliers, I kinked the wire at a 90 degree angle and bent it around twice. It begins to look like the coil at this point, and the positive side (the left, flat side) begins to take shape.



I removed the wire from the pliers at this point because the coil needs to be bent into a round half-figure-eight pattern, and coiled it tight by hand. Make sure you coil it the right way, If the connector is flipped around, it WILL NOT FIT. The image below is coiled in the correct pattern, though unfinished and cut off on the right side to illustrate the point; All six battery connectors are identical.   


Ok, the left side is done!  At this point, bend down and curl the wire up around counterclockwise around a thin screwdriver or something comparable. Below in picture 6, I actually used TOO much wire, again to illustrate the point, and had to trim it down a coil and a half. The wire isn't spring-loaded and isn't going to act exactly like the original (but once again this may be accomplished with slightly thinner, firmer wire).



Now, the right side is done too! The coil is flattened, but works perfectly. Make sure to carefully insert the new connectors in the bottom groove first, and then clip into the top tab (Again, horizontal with the blue arrow in picture 1). Now, It's installed!

When it powers up, and the batteries all fit O.K. with no major clearance issues, THEN use a match-head of superglue or epoxy (in the center downward bend, between the two coils) to secure it.

This last photo is the finished product. Thanks again to chop5, The Old Rover, and Custm42435 for all the shoutbox help! 

[High Score Records / "Ninja Warriors" High Scores]

Ok, everyone; here is the official scoreboard for NW!

Ninja Warriors:

#1 - blueraven - 113,150
#2 - Hopefully you! Please submit your challenges!

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Altered Beast CD Freezes..]

Altered Beast Freezes and/or stops scrolling in every level when you gather the last power-up and morph into the beast(s). 

I've got a PCE Duo.

This is a glitch, right? Is there a fix? 

Thanks in advance...

[Console Repair/Mod Center / PC Engine Duo Video/RAM Issue]

Hey Everyone,

Thanks for your dedication to keeping these consoles alive, and for this forum.

I just picked up a second PC Engine duo from a seller on eBay who claimed it was his "As-Is... backup unit"; The price was right (under $75 shipped, no peripherals or controllers), but shortly after the purchase and doing a bit of feedback research I realized that the unit was actually sold to him as a damaged/broken unit a week prior from a seller in Japan and he used the same picture from the previous seller's auction. Naturally, he forgot to mention this in his listing. 

This is how the unit looked when it powered on. Needless to day it was disappointing, but I was prepared for it.



After reading the previous posts on the CoreGrafx Video Issue here:

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=4617.0

I double-checked the power supply (aftermarket 9v 1000ma shielded) and AV cable (official NEC) with my other system to make sure they were in working order. 

I came to the conclusion that the issue is faulty RAM, and have since ordered a few sets of replacements at Arcadecomponents.com. If I'm correct, there should be 28 solder points per chip about .75mm apart for each. I'll post the photos and follow-ups here when I get the system apart next week and actually have to do surgery. Has anybody performed this repair, and if so what were your results?

Thanks again,
blueraven