RIP to BT Garner of MindRec.com... He passed away early 2023 from health problems. BT was one of the top PCE homebrew developers and founder of the OG Turbo List, then PCECP.com. Condolences to family and friends.
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Messages - Vimtoman

#2
The 2.4" from Good display is 480 x 240. This matches the GT's display res.
I ordered a special with a 5v power rail.

They now have a lower res 3.5" thats sun readable. 240 x 320

wayback.good-display.com/productId=212.html
3.5 inch Sun readable LCD Display, GTT035HDHT1
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I'm not making another version as most will go for the transistor based converter.

It's harder to mod but I think works better with the cheaper displays on ebay. Well  some of them
#3
If anybody wants to make a SNES2PCE pad converter I have posted below my version.
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There is a CPU in need of programing.
This just provides clocks etc
Converts a Snes pad to either a 2way or 6way PCE pad selected by a switch.
The 2way has I and II (Y & B) mirrored with auto fire on X & A.
Select is also mapped to the right shoulder button.
Changing the schematic you can change the above configuration.

Will need a 1 to 1 8pin plug cable. Make sure it's is 1to 1 as there are plenty with swapped pins.

Scematic

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Components, RS and Farnell UK numbers .
Note "RS" and "F" in numbers to be removed when searching on site.

12LF1822 U9     
MC74HC08AD U8   
MC74HC32AD U7   
MC74HC157AD U3-5   
MC74HC163AD U6   
MC74HC595AD U1-2   
0.1 25V X7R 0805 RS-48-0979 C1-4   
1uF 50v X7R 1206 F2310427 C6   
10uf 50v RS7111425 C5   
B160-13-F RS7384765 D1     
8pinminipcb Con3   
CR0805-FX-3300GLF RS7409022 R1-4     
ERA3AEB472V F1577615 4.7K 0603 R5, R7-9     
ASE4204 f1197659 rs162505 sw1     

Hex code for CPU.

:020000040000FA
:100000004B280830A600A70039088500370884006F
:10001000350833193020331D322084133808870007
:10002000360880388600340881048613A001A101B7
:10003000260803194828B3182B2001083405FF3E71
:10004000A00DA10DB31C2B20A60B1B2827083318CD
:100050003928200848283508800600008006080056
:1000600080043528FF3A80053628FF3A841780053A
:100070004828A201A3014028A10CA00CA20DA30DA9
:10008000FF3E03183C282308A1002208A0004828AE
:10009000200064000800210079309900FF308C00B6
:1000A00082309E0020000C1621000C1220000C1241
:1000B00021000C120C302000B6000030B8000830CF
:1000C000B4000C30B7000030B9002030B500B301E7
:0800D0000C300220BA00E733F6
:020000040001F9
:02000E00FCFFF5
:02001000FFDE11
:00000001FF
#4
Installed a 2500mAh Lipo battery pack into my GT.
This is removable but also can be charged when cover removed.
I swap one then charge the other.
I also installed a Gammatronix programmable led battery indicator
Battery pack and charger purchased
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Mating cable for battery
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First removed all AA battery parts and plastic posts in the battery compartment.
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The cover also needs reducing as the battery pack is just too thick with these bits in.
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Battery indicator installed at the bottom of case
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Battery indicator and GT power wired to Battery cable and hot glued in place.
The indicator preforms better if connected direct to the battery thick wire rather than
the thin wires of the GT.
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Battery pack installed
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Cover closed
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#5
Picture of my settings

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I tend to start with setting the pots up using it then tweak.

If you find it a problem and you've done a clean and a complete cap change then it's the laser.


#6
Have made some boards shown working below.

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The display I had purchased is not high enough res.
The 2.4" is OK.

Does anybody know of a 3.5" that is a high res 4:3 and capable of running at 5vDC?
#7
Ok I now have a working circuit/mod for the GT with no wiring to the Grafix chip.

This works directly from the flat cable lcd connection of the GT.

RGB + HSync to composite converter. 5V power.

Schematic below.

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2.4" display link. You can ask for the 5V version.

http://www.good-display.com/products_detail/&productId=186.html

I have bread boarded the circuit and there is some noise on the picture.
The adjustable cap does allow you to tweek this out to a point.
I have not tried a fixed cap on the xtal or upping the RGB 0.1uf caps to reduce it.
This may help.

Schottky diode on the 5V is optional but advisable as Ive popped the fuse a couple of times connecting the flat cable incorrectly :)

I also used the original back light circuit board to wire the circuit to do the test circuit so you could do this.
Just remove all the components prior.

Overall the colours are good and the res on the 2.4" is 480 x 234 and preforms really well.
Not tried the 3.5"

There is another version which is a  AD725 IC and has a Luma trap circuit you can add which may preform better but I've not the time to do this.

Made some boards in the end. Tested and working.
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OG: https://i.imgur.com/8uR229H.png

SETUP

Allow the unit to warm up . Play system for 5 mins.
Fine adjust xtal pot to tweek out slight jitter on edges of red.

MODS

75r resistors on RGB input not needed.

For 7v - 12v lcd's tapping the switched DC input to power lcd points.
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OG: https://i.imgur.com/b5ZG8xT.png

The 5v supply onto the ribbon cable needs a mod.
Removal of Q507 and shorting fixed 5V to ribbon connection is shown below.
Note wire does not connect to pads located either side of the wire. Only the central one.
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OG: https://i.imgur.com/1ocVDh4.png

If you need help or questions just PM me.

If you want PCB's with or without components PM me.

Gerbers are also ready so PM me with your email address if you want a copy.

I have 9 completed pcb's for sale and when they are gone thats all I'm going to do.
There will be some bare boards leftover so again PM me if you want some.

I will pass my gerbers onto Keith Courage who may make some for the future.

Enjoy.
#8
Quote from: esteban on 05/16/2016, 07:27 AM
Quote from: guest on 05/15/2016, 10:24 PMHere's a logo in PCE graphics that I've only begun to touch up and shade:

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:)

(1) I would have the text overlap numeral "2" more aggressively!

(2) I'm on my phone and can't describe how it would be fun if... bottom layer = base trunk of "2", middle layer = logos, top layer = sections of "2" that "strategically  overlap edges of the logos (implying depth or  "weave" of 2 layers).

(3) Alternative (break horizontal line): Lower the NES down a few pixels + right, raise "NEC" a few pixels up + left.


/2¢
With a bit of shadow to push the 2 back and lift the NEC PCE.
#9
Ok I'm going to raffle one pcb with all components, just needs the PC engine cable side added.

This pcb converts a Snes pad to either a 2way or 6way PCE pad selected by a switch.
The 2way has I and II (Y & B) mirrored with auto fire on X & A.
Select is also mapped to the right shoulder button.

It's not high tech and just totally made up of TTL IC's using a 6way pad circuit.

Have a couple of errors on the pcb so not perfect.

Should have placed a mini 8pin dim pcb socket on the board :( but may do it another day.
Hopefully someone may have a CPU version done by that time.

OK 1 week to for the raffle.

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#10
OK have my pcb's in and I have cocked uo a couple of things.
One pullup missing and one track error.
Nothing major.

I'm going to raffle two boards with IC's and 2/6way switch.
These will need a 8pin din cable wired.

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rafflle on another thread.
#11
Smups get yourself some isopropyl alcohol a new toothbrush and clean around those IC's and around the CD circuit area.

Below are my Pot settings.
This unit had to be cleaned twice due to it not reading correctly.

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#12
NEC in their infinite wisdom did not buffer or protect the expansion bus so it's vunberable to static ect.
Their is a possibility that the HUC6280 is damaged on one of the audio pins.
If you have a scope you could check the pin.

Here is a a link for schematic: IMG TurboGrafx-16-Schematic-1-Hu6280_Circuit.png

Hope that helps some.
#13
I found that getting up off my arse every time I wanted to change a game on the Turbo Everdrive was in need of a solution.
Nope not a extra long stick but an IR remote controlled reset.

I bought one of these remotes online really cheap.

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I programmed it using the routines from this web site.

https://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/IR-RemoteControl

Modiying it in two sections. I had kept all the other sections of code for testing on serial.

void setup()   /*----( SETUP: RUNS ONCE )----*/
{
  Serial.begin(9600);
  Serial.println("IR Receiver Raw Data + Button Decode Test");
  irrecv.enableIRIn(); // Start the receiver
  pinMode(2,OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(2,HIGH);
}/*--(end setup )---*/

and changed the case routine on several buttons.
Only one shown below.
This adds a 600ms pulse to reset the Everdrive.

case 0xFF22DD: 
    digitalWrite(2,LOW);
    Serial.println(" PREV           ");
    delay(600);
     digitalWrite(2,HIGH);
    break;

Wire the IR sensor to the Arduino Mini and Turbo Everdrive using the colour coded diagrams below.

Turbo everdrive pinout
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IR sensor pinout
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Arduino mini 168 pinout
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Finished test item
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#14
Here is some info of my installation.
Switch has been added and all works.

1. Remove original IC and add wire to Pad 21

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OG: https://i.imgur.com/F7EcOPI.png


2. Flatten pins on new IC for wiring.

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OG: https://i.imgur.com/TfewBi2.png

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OG: https://i.imgur.com/jJk6mvM.png

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HQ: https://i.imgur.com/8SKkna1.png


Note I have  used the VCC/+5v input of the original Sram cap not the output which the Sram requires.

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OG: https://i.imgur.com/HFxXO7L.png


Rear pinout of switch.
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HQ: https://i.imgur.com/81dWHgB.png


Hot-glued switch into hole in cover.
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HQ: https://i.imgur.com/mGbEhcP.png


Note pullup resistors and used a cutdown 8pin IC socket for ease of removal if switch needs changing.
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https://i.imgur.com/TyDD02L.png


Finished view of Ram Bank selector.
#15
This is a Fram mod rather than a Sram mod that WilyKat is doing.
The Fram is more expensive than the Sram version but....
Unlike Sram does not need a large storage cap to hold memory.
So no loss of data for years and years and years....

No battery in the Tennokoe Bank.

IC is a Cypress FM18W08.

It's a FRAM with a similar pinout.

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HQ: https://i.imgur.com/8SKkna1.png


Formatted Ram OK.
Have just tried Soldier blade and save is in the bank.

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HQ: https://i.imgur.com/YtQFCa4.png


Just ordered some switches which are Hartman PT65503 16way hex.

This a rotary switch that will have pullup resistors giving an extra 16 banks of data.

Will wire up the switch when it arrives and post to all a wiring diagram.

This will of course work with WilyKats great piece of work on the next thread.
I will probably upgrade mine to his switching circuit when he's finished it.
#16
WilyKat Fram arrived today.
Just put it in and it works!!!! No Sram no Cap not loss of data for years and years and years....

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Formatted Ram OK.
Have just tried Soldier blade and save is in the bank.

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Just ordered some switches which are Hartman PT65503 16way hex.

Just want to Thank you WilyKat starting all this.
I wouldn't have attempted it otherwise.

Will wire up the switch when it arrives and post to all.
#17
Just received this in the post.

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#18
Just FYI here are some pictures of how I had wired my switch.
There are several pads that go to the 5/8 pin Din that have dual pad arrangment with a small section of track joining them.
Cutting the track underneath allows you to disconnect the composite from the din so that you can use the pads to add wires.
Just scratch off the resist off the pads underneath to solder.
The pad connected to the din I had connected to the center connection of the toggle switch.
The other to the N/C pin of the switch.
The N/O pin of the switch has the CSync from HUC6260 via a Cap.
I used the other pole of the dual pole switch to hold the cap.
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#20
Bitchy round here
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#21
Bit late but going up.

So poke me in the middle misses....

430000

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