Another Saturday has come and gone, and still no TED pictures.
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Show posts MenuQuote from: esteban on 05/01/2018, 07:27 PMWill I spam? No, I can't spam.Well now I just have to play Alien Crush.
Oh, sure I will.I have wanted to make another parody of "unboxing" videos... but then I say "why bother?" because the real unboxing videos are so ridiculous, they are already parodying themselves.
If I can think of a funny, new angle to poke fun at silly video game culture, I might do it (like boiling a sealed game in its packaging!)
Quote from: esteban on 04/17/2018, 05:12 PMNo, but that is the entire battle for me. A million years ago Bernie set up a folder or whatever, I downloaded it somewhere....I think I have a spare SD card that will hold everything. Are you going to the ToyCon this weekend in Parssippany? I'll bring you a loaded and ready to go SD card, and then you just have to put it in your everdrive and go.
Quote from: esteban on 04/17/2018, 07:19 PMHoly shite! Is it next week? AWESOME.Are you guys going to be at the ToyCon this weekend?
Quote from: nectarsis on 04/16/2018, 06:25 PMfriends, the show and getsSome fantastic gets in here! I don't even want to guess at how much you spent. I'm kind of jealous too looking at this. Well I say that because the two conventions I go to, I would never expect to find like half of that stuff at them. There must be a huge amount of vendors at MGC.
http://s180.photobucket.com/user/nectarsis/slideshow/MGC%202018
Quote from: esteban on 04/14/2018, 09:31 PMThat sucks.I've been doing good, how about yourself? Are you going to AVGC this year?
ASIDE: Dude! How have you been?
/backONtopic
Quote from: guest on 04/15/2018, 05:05 AMTry having the bare controller PCB open when using it with the console and then short the "up" PCB contact pads to see if the fault lies within your rubber pad contact.What would you suggest to use to short it with? just a piece of wire across it? my finger?
Also, some games just do not like to be played in 6-button mode, if this is the case, try 2-button-mode for these games.
Quote from: GaijinD on 02/26/2018, 03:01 AMWell, I don't have any way to know for sure if the stick was the cause, but I did start having issues with one of the ports on my Xbox, which was the system I used it on most. I also generally don't plug or unplug controllers while the system is on, either. I liked the stick, but I decided to play it safe. That, and Wii games that support GameCube controllers completely fail to detect it, so my hope would be that a new PCB would fix that. I'd love to use it for some Tatsunoko vs Capcom.Well this gives me enough pause to not use it any more. I'm slowly collecting the things needed to build my own multi-system arcade stick. I bought one of those MC Cthulhu boards, and going to do a similar thing to the arcade stick in this thread. So I'll just end up using that for PS1/1 and GC stuff.
Quote from: bartre on 03/11/2018, 07:31 PMwhat do you guys think is a fair price?Would you be willing to go like 20 - 25 shipped for one of the white ones?
Quote from: GaijinD on 02/24/2018, 08:20 PMYeah I recently read online about that. I may have missed some posts or comments but it seemed like it first started popping up from some people who were swapping controllers while the system was on. Now I'm old school here and I was always told that was a big no no, and a rock solid way of either fucking up your system or your controller.Quote from: Johnpv on 02/22/2018, 08:21 AMI also have a Pelican Real Arcade Universal that will work with PS1/2, OG Xbox and GC, but I still need a good Saturn, SNES, Genesis, and PCE solution.I have one of those Pelican sticks as well, but stopped using it as I heard the PCB design had a tendency to burn out controller ports. One of these days I'd like to have the board swapped out, so I can go back to using it without worrying that I'll damage one of my consoles.
Quote from: Flare65 on 02/14/2018, 09:23 AMI have a Retron 5 and the Snes game that play in it have lag.You won't have that kind of lag on this. The only lag you'll experience with this is going to be what ever your tv that you're playing it on has.
I'd be up for buying one of these systems and a flash/everdrive cart to go with it, but I'm concerned that if I dropped all that money, would I get the same lag experience as the Retron5?
Has anyone noticed any lag just using the flash/everdrive cart on the original hardware?
Quote from: VmprHntrD on 02/08/2018, 09:30 PMThere any particular reason when it comes to the six button controller why people tend to rip on the Avenue and suck up to the Hori one instead? I mean I get the Hori one looks like a SNES controller, d-pad and all, but is that it or is there some comfort or defect issue with the other?I can only talk about the 3 button AV, but the 6 button and 3 button look to have the same d-pad. Which for me is just too small. I just found the D-pad on it to be a bit frustrating to use, while the d-pad on the Hori one is much bigger and felt better for me.
The price difference kind of sucks and I'd like to get one so I can handle those 3-6 button games better.
Quote from: crazydean on 02/03/2018, 09:17 PMI prefer to buy directly from the source. Thus, more of my money goes towards supporting the work that Krikzz does instead of some warehouse which preys on the weak-minded who need a box with every cartridge, even when it doesn't make sense.The dude works with Krikzz, but whatever makes you feel better.
Quote from: CZroe on 02/02/2018, 10:02 AMFWIW, 720p will integer-scale to 4K. If you disable your TV's image processing (overscan simulation, motion interpolation, etc) you should get perfectly sharp pixels with no in-betweeners!If you're using scanlines, then yeah 720p with better scanlines would be the way to go, but if you're not using scanlines I would say 1080p. 1080p is a 2x integer scale to 4k theoretically it should result in less time processing the image from 720p but that will probably depend from set to set.
I've been doing Hi-Def NES and UltraHDMI installs and 720p is the recommended setting for 4K televisions.
Quote from: soop on 01/31/2018, 09:51 AMWell I certainly think that partnering with the NeoGeo forums is a PR disaster.I will 3rd this.
Quote from: GohanX on 01/26/2018, 10:39 PMI have one and it's great. Eat my dick.*looks at dick* I don't think this is going to feed everyone.
Quote from: CZroe on 12/29/2017, 01:38 AMUnfortunately it wasn't generally available in your average TV until we were on the verge of component with the popularity of DVD players but it was available first and all the way up to the advent of digital inputs, making it's useful life a bit longer before DVI/HDMI displaces both... and that's when all the best CRTs were being made. XBOX 360 and Wii were still component only and a lot of people were using it for DVD players so it died a slow death.
Quote from: MobiusStripTech on 12/29/2017, 02:56 AMI'm not saying s-video as a standard wasn't around. The issue was availability. As you said the 4pin mini-DIN, which was introduced later is the more common one people are aware of. The problem was that it wasn't included on most consumer grade products until as CZroe said, component was becoming readily available. I used s-video for years and never touched component because my s-video looked great. But I wasn't your average consumer. I actually owned a SVHS player, which did use s-video.I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. Growing up we didn't have big or expensive tv sets, and both my parents main living room set, and then one I used odd job birthday etc money to buy both had S-Video on them. This was like the late 80s early 90s, while component wouldn't really show up till 10 years later. I would bet its easier to find an SD CRT with S-Video than one with component. My friend is going through that right now, he wants a back up SD CRT with component in and having a hard time finding one.
Quote from: MobiusStripTech on 12/29/2017, 12:26 AMS-video is one of those things that many people missed the boat on and didn't live really long. So I get removing it.S-Video was around for awhile, it was introduced in 1979. Machines like the Commodore 64 (You need the model with the 8 pin din which has separate luma and chroma outputs), Commodore 128 and Atari 8-bit computers had it. The more common 4-pin mini din we associate with S-Video was introduced in 1987.
Quote from: blueraven on 10/20/2017, 04:41 PMYeah it should have been but shit happens. It's an operation of like 2 people building all this shit by hand. Out of the 9 or 10 cables from them that I've bought I've only ever had an issue with 1, and they did replace it no problem.Quote from: Johnpv on 10/18/2017, 08:17 AMWhy not just contact customer service and have them replace the cable? I've gotten almost all my cables from them and have only had issues with 1, and when I contacted them about it they quickly just sent out a replacement.I had the level of knowledge to switch the two wires, and while having a second cable would have been nice it was just heating up the iron and a swap... about 5 minutes of total work.
This is true, they are really good about getting back with you on restocking, cables, etc. Digi K, don't worry about them as a seller, they do a good job. This is just me as a persistent technogeek bitching about how I had to swap a single wire. But seriously, it should have been correct when it arrived.
But yeah, they're good sellers.
Quote from: blueraven on 10/17/2017, 03:25 PMDragonmasterDan made me hep to this, remembering an issue that I had long forgotten about.Why not just contact customer service and have them replace the cable? I've gotten almost all my cables from them and have only had issues with 1, and when I contacted them about it they quickly just sent out a replacement.
I bought a Cable from the British Guys, Retrogamingcables.uk from them for PVM 2030A, and now that you mention It I'm still on their fucking mailing list.
I had to do some soldering to make it work, they sent me a JP21 cable and I had to disassemble it and double-check with mickris and thesteve to rewire it so that it would work. I was kind of pissed off that I had to do the work over after having it shipped halfway across the world. Although, it was better than having green and blue messed up.
Anyway.... Yeehaw... the cable works. I still use it on the 2030A. But you may have to have a soldering party to get it to work.