Sega Lord X reviews the Street Fighter II Champion Edition PC Engine port.
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Messages - Johnpv

#1
Another Saturday has come and gone, and still no TED pictures.
#2
I would have gotten this if it included the rug as well............in all seriousness I just got this a few months ago on Necro's recommendations.  Just haven't had a chance to dig into it yet.
#3
We should make it that if there aren't photos by this Saturday you have to buy Majors and myself lunch at AVGC.  Each Saturday after that, that it isn't posted, the lunch gets fancier.
#4
.......we are well past saturday and no photo, Esteban needs to be punished.
#5
I expect photos no later than Saturday morning.
#6
You know originally I was going to be like, I suck at pinball games so I don't know if I'm going to jump into this one.  This video though


Quote from: esteban on 05/01/2018, 07:27 PMWill I spam? No, I can't spam.

Oh, sure I will.
I have wanted to make another parody of "unboxing" videos... but then I say "why bother?" because the real unboxing videos are so ridiculous, they are already parodying themselves.

If I can think of a funny, new angle to poke fun at silly video game culture, I might do it (like boiling a sealed game in its packaging!)

:)
Well now I just have to play Alien Crush.
#7
The weekend is over, we need to see photos of your TED finally set up!  :lol:
#8
Come on HellFire!
#9
I haven't really played any of them, so I wasn't sure how to vote.  I ended up going with Hellfire S because I have the Genesis version so it might be fun to compare them.
#10
Quote from: esteban on 04/17/2018, 05:12 PMNo, but that is the entire battle for me. A million years ago Bernie set up a folder or whatever, I downloaded it somewhere....
I think I have a spare SD card that will hold everything.  Are you going to the ToyCon this weekend in Parssippany?  I'll bring you a loaded and ready to go SD card, and then you just have to put it in your everdrive and go.
#11
So I'm guessing its looking like a bad trace.  Do any of you know if it would be safe/ok to scrap off some of the mask layer to expose some copper and solder a wire from there to the input pin on the IC chip for UP?  I assume I would do it there and not to the carbon pad.
#12
Quote from: esteban on 04/17/2018, 07:19 PMHoly shite! Is it next week? AWESOME.
Are you guys going to be at the ToyCon this weekend?
#13
Do you at least have your MicroSD Card set up for it?
#14
Quote from: nectarsis on 04/16/2018, 06:25 PMfriends, the show and gets

http://s180.photobucket.com/user/nectarsis/slideshow/MGC%202018
Some fantastic gets in here!  I don't even want to guess at how much you spent.  I'm kind of jealous too looking at this.  Well I say that because the two conventions I go to, I would never expect to find like half of that stuff at them.  There must be a huge amount of vendors at MGC.
#16
Damn I wonder why the hell the shipping was so much.  When I ordered mine it was like 7 bucks to ship.
#17
Maybe contact Paradise Arcade Shop, or watch this page, https://paradisearcadeshop.com/home/electrical/control-pcbs/fgc-console-joystick/1828_toodles-mc-cthulhu?search_query=toodles&results=5

This was who had them in stock when I bought one, hmmm maybe 4 - 6 weeks ago.  I think they only just sold out recently.
#18
Did you ever get your everdrive set up?
#19
I have tried testing continuity on the carbon pads, and got nothing, BUT even with the ones that do work, testing them gets me nothing as well, so I don't know what that means.  I have cleaned the carbon pads with isopropyl alcohol, and even used some deoxit on it as well.
#20
Yes I do have a DMM, though the traces and everything looked good and no issues.  I'll have to try that tonight or tomorrow.


*EDIT*

So I just tested it using a piece of solder and I get nothing from the up pad.  I did test the continuity between the up line and the chip that it goes to, and there's continuity there.
#21
Quote from: esteban on 04/14/2018, 09:31 PMThat sucks.

ASIDE: Dude! How have you been?

:)


/backONtopic
I've been doing good, how about yourself?  Are you going to AVGC this year?

Quote from: guest on 04/15/2018, 05:05 AMTry having the bare controller PCB open when using it with the console and then short the "up" PCB contact pads to see if the fault lies within your rubber pad contact.

Also, some games just do not like to be played in 6-button mode, if this is the case, try 2-button-mode for these games.
What would you suggest to use to short it with? just a piece of wire across it? my finger?

I've tried it in a few games and with the everdrive, both in 2b and 6b mode, nothing seems to get the up to work.
#22
I did check the pins and they're all straight.  The end that plugs into the board everything looks good there too.  I even went ahead and cleaned the connectors on both the controller and console, and hit the controller connector with some deoxit today.  Up still doesn't work.
#23
On my system or for the controller?  I have a few other controllers and they all work fine, so I would assume the system is ok, but maybe worth a try.
#24
I've opened it up and I've cleaned the circuit board spot for up, and the rubber pad end with isopropyl alcohol.  I'm not sure what else to try.  I believe I've heard of people reapplying graphite or something to the part on the rubber pads, but I don't know what I would do that with.  Everything else on it works perfectly, it's just the up button that does nothing.  Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#25
Quote from: GaijinD on 02/26/2018, 03:01 AMWell, I don't have any way to know for sure if the stick was the cause, but I did start having issues with one of the ports on my Xbox, which was the system I used it on most. I also generally don't plug or unplug controllers while the system is on, either. I liked the stick, but I decided to play it safe. That, and Wii games that support GameCube controllers completely fail to detect it, so my hope would be that a new PCB would fix that. I'd love to use it for some Tatsunoko vs Capcom.
Well this gives me enough pause to not use it any more.  I'm slowly collecting the things needed to build my own multi-system arcade stick.  I bought one of those MC Cthulhu boards, and going to do a similar thing to the arcade stick in this thread.  So I'll just end up using that for PS1/1 and GC stuff.
#26
Quote from: bartre on 03/11/2018, 07:31 PMwhat do you guys think is a fair price?
Would you be willing to go like 20 - 25 shipped for one of the white ones?
#27
If you have a white one that isn't claimed I would definitely be interested in 1.
#28
Quote from: GaijinD on 02/24/2018, 08:20 PM
Quote from: Johnpv on 02/22/2018, 08:21 AMI also have a Pelican Real Arcade Universal that will work with PS1/2, OG Xbox and GC, but I still need a good Saturn, SNES, Genesis, and PCE solution.
I have one of those Pelican sticks as well, but stopped using it as I heard the PCB design had a tendency to burn out controller ports. One of these days I'd like to have the board swapped out, so I can go back to using it without worrying that I'll damage one of my consoles.
Yeah I recently read online about that.  I may have missed some posts or comments but it seemed like it first started popping up from some people who were swapping controllers while the system was on.  Now I'm old school here and I was always told that was a big no no, and a rock solid way of either fucking up your system or your controller.   

I hate to do the I've used it for years with no problems kind of post, but yeah I used it a lot back in the day and had no issues with it.  Again though I NEVER hot swap controllers that have to be plugged in on any of my system.  I don't know if that's it and if there are posts from people saying they didn't do that and it still fried their port then I totally missed them and that's on me.  Food for thought though.
#29
Man I really want to attempt to make something like Bartre made for you.  I have the Mayflash F300, and I dropped a Sanwa stick into it.  Really happy with that so far, and it works on PS3, PS4, 360, Xbox One, Switch and PC.  I need something though for my older consoles. I have a few SNES, and Genesis arcade sticks from that time period and I'm just not happy with any of them.   I also have a Pelican Real Arcade Universal that will work with PS1/2, OG Xbox and GC, but I still need a good Saturn, SNES, Genesis, and PCE solution.  I really need to do something like Bartre, hopefully he'll come by this thread and post about what he did.
#30
General Gaming / Re: Super Nt
02/14/2018, 03:14 PM
Quote from: Flare65 on 02/14/2018, 09:23 AMI have a Retron 5 and the Snes game that play in it have lag. 

I'd be up for buying one of these systems and a flash/everdrive cart to go with it, but I'm concerned that if I dropped all that money, would I get the same lag experience as the Retron5?

Has anyone noticed any lag just using the flash/everdrive cart on the original hardware?
You won't have that kind of lag on this.  The only lag you'll experience with this is going to be what ever your tv that you're playing it on has.
#31
Quote from: VmprHntrD on 02/08/2018, 09:30 PMThere any particular reason when it comes to the six button controller why people tend to rip on the Avenue and suck up to the Hori one instead?  I mean I get the Hori one looks like a SNES controller, d-pad and all, but is that it or is there some comfort or defect issue with the other?

The price difference kind of sucks and I'd like to get one so I can handle those 3-6 button games better.
I can only talk about the 3 button AV, but the 6 button and 3 button look to have the same d-pad.  Which for me is just too small.  I just found the D-pad on it to be a bit frustrating to use, while the d-pad on the Hori one is much bigger and felt better for me.

I guess for me, maybe I have big thumbs, so it wasn't like terrible, and I could make do with the AV3 D-pad, but since getting the hori one, I haven't looked back.
#32
A bunch of Billy Mitchell's recent scores got taken down too.  Seems he was playing the game in Mame when he was claiming it to be done on original hardware.
#33
Quote from: crazydean on 02/03/2018, 09:17 PMI prefer to buy directly from the source. Thus, more of my money goes towards supporting the work that Krikzz does instead of some warehouse which preys on the weak-minded who need a box with every cartridge, even when it doesn't make sense.
The dude works with Krikzz, but whatever makes you feel better.
#34
Also for those of you in the US you know you can get Krikzz stuff from Stoneage gamer in the US, and have regular shipping and get it in a few days instead of waiting over two months.  The price is the same (though maybe he doesn't do the black friday sale, but I guess to me its worth it not to wait almost 2 1/2 months).
#35
Also make sure you have the OS file in the right folder on the SD card.
#36
Quote from: CZroe on 02/02/2018, 10:02 AMFWIW, 720p will integer-scale to 4K. If you disable your TV's image processing (overscan simulation, motion interpolation, etc) you should get perfectly sharp pixels with no in-betweeners!

I've been doing Hi-Def NES and UltraHDMI installs and 720p is the recommended setting for 4K televisions.
If you're using scanlines, then yeah 720p with better scanlines would be the way to go, but if you're not using scanlines I would say 1080p.  1080p is a 2x integer scale to 4k theoretically it should result in less time processing the image from 720p but that will probably depend from set to set.

One of the nice things about 4k sets is that both 720p and 1080 are integer scales to it.  (1280 x 720 x 3 =  3,840 x 2,160 and 1920 x 1080 x 2 = 3,840 x 2,160)

Plus for those 4k sets that soften the image when they upscale them, you should see less of a softening when going from 1080p vs 720p. 


For those wanting component out of the SD3 thing, the HDRetrovision Genesis model 2 cables will do the trick.
#37
Quote from: soop on 01/31/2018, 09:51 AMWell I certainly think that partnering with the NeoGeo forums is a PR disaster.
I will 3rd this.
#38
Quote from: GohanX on 01/26/2018, 10:39 PMI have one and it's great. Eat my dick.
*looks at dick*  I don't think this is going to feed everyone.
#39
So the PC version got delayed again, it seems that there were some calls being made that are on PS4 hardware but not found elsewhere.   Which I guess was causing framerate issues, so they've delayed the PC version and are handing it off to a different studio to finish the porting it seems.  The translation patch will still be out on the 30th.  Hopefully this means that all of this stuff is caught and the Switch version doesn't suffer from any of this.
#40
I've got 3 different ones, and the Avenue 3, and original models are good but the D-pads are so tiny on them.  I recently got the hori 6 button pad for it, and absolutely love it.  It's become my go to controller for the system.
#41
Over on the Shmups forums this thing is getting ripped on over RGB issues (it sounds like csync isn't working for a lot of people), and now audio buzzing.  Anyone who has one here experience anything? 

I did see they're working with Voultar, and getting a proper MD2 RGB csync cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk to help improve the product.
#42
I saw on another board that they announced the patch and the PC version are supposedly both coming on January 30th.
#43
Quote from: CZroe on 12/29/2017, 01:38 AMUnfortunately it wasn't generally available in your average TV until we were on the verge of component with the popularity of DVD players but it was available first and all the way up to the advent of digital inputs, making it's useful life a bit longer before DVI/HDMI displaces both... and that's when all the best CRTs were being made. XBOX 360 and Wii were still component only and a lot of people were using it for DVD players so it died a slow death.
Quote from: MobiusStripTech on 12/29/2017, 02:56 AMI'm not saying s-video as a standard wasn't around. The issue was availability. As you said the 4pin mini-DIN, which was introduced later is the more common one people are aware of. The problem was that it wasn't included on most consumer grade products until as CZroe said, component was becoming readily available. I used s-video for years and never touched component because my s-video looked great. But I wasn't your average consumer. I actually owned a SVHS player, which did use s-video.
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree.  Growing up we didn't have big or expensive tv sets, and both my parents main living room set, and then one I used odd job birthday etc money to buy both had S-Video on them.  This was like the late 80s early 90s, while component wouldn't really show up till 10 years later. I would bet its easier to find an SD CRT with S-Video than one with component.  My friend is going through that right now, he wants a back up SD CRT with component in and having a hard time finding one.
#44
Quote from: MobiusStripTech on 12/29/2017, 12:26 AMS-video is one of those things that many people missed the boat on and didn't live really long. So I get removing it.
S-Video was around for awhile, it was introduced in 1979.  Machines like the Commodore 64 (You need the model with the 8 pin din which has separate luma and chroma outputs), Commodore 128 and Atari 8-bit computers had it.  The more common 4-pin mini din we associate with S-Video was introduced in 1987.
#45
I was pretty disappointed with it.  Force Awakens was much better.  Personally I'd put this at the bottom of the list of Star Wars movies.
#46
I'll second the I don't care what people play on as long as they're actually playing their games.  My setup right now involves a 50 inch lcd, I still have my 27 inch Sony Wega though, with component input, and one day when we live in a place with more rooms I'll get it set up in a proper game room. 

Keeping the fiance happy definitely plays into things.  As a big vertical shmup fan I do have to say I love the convenience of my current setup.   Any time I want to play a vertical shmup, the wall mount for my TV lets me rotate in about 20 seconds and I'm ready to go.   Way back in the day I kept a 19 inch on its side all the time along side that 27 inch Sony, just for vertical shmups.
#47
Quote from: blueraven on 10/20/2017, 04:41 PM
Quote from: Johnpv on 10/18/2017, 08:17 AMWhy not just contact customer service and have them replace the cable?  I've gotten almost all my cables from them and have only had issues with 1, and when I contacted them about it they quickly just sent out a replacement. 
I had the level of knowledge to switch the two wires, and while having a second cable would have been nice it was just heating up the iron and a swap... about 5 minutes of total work.

This is true, they are really good about getting back with you on restocking, cables, etc. Digi K, don't worry about them as a seller, they do a good job. This is just me as a persistent technogeek bitching about how I had to swap a single wire. But seriously, it should have been correct when it arrived.

But yeah, they're good sellers.
Yeah it should have been but shit happens.  It's an operation of like 2 people building all this shit by hand.  Out of the 9 or 10 cables from them that I've bought I've only ever had an issue with 1, and they did replace it no problem.
#48
Quote from: blueraven on 10/17/2017, 03:25 PMDragonmasterDan made me hep to this, remembering an issue that I had long forgotten about.

I bought a Cable from the British Guys, Retrogamingcables.uk from them for PVM 2030A, and now that you mention It I'm still on their fucking mailing list.

I had to do some soldering to make it work, they sent me a JP21 cable and I had to disassemble it and double-check with mickris and thesteve to rewire it so that it would work. I was kind of pissed off that I had to do the work over after having it shipped halfway across the world. Although, it was better than having green and blue messed up.

Anyway.... Yeehaw... the cable works. I still use it on the 2030A. But you may have to have a soldering party to get it to work.
Why not just contact customer service and have them replace the cable?  I've gotten almost all my cables from them and have only had issues with 1, and when I contacted them about it they quickly just sent out a replacement.
#49
lol Jersey needs ALL the saves
#50
PM sent as well