The Analogue Turbo Duo clone shipped in time for Christmas 2023. Are you happy with yours ?? Find firmware updates here.
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Messages - pnauts

#1
this is not just pinned in ?

Thanks again to theSteve, BlueBMW (and others) to their useful contributions, you rocks !
#2
it's 23B on the expansion port for PCE, CGX I & II...

view from the rear of the console.

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#3
video posted today by a customer for a RGB SCD²
#4
Up
(and update of the missing pics in p.1)
#5
 :dance:
#6
Up! make your PCE brighter than you christmas tree.
#7
It's been a while, boards available.
pics in opening post.
#8
Vodka ?
no, Champagne !
In Paris.
#10
Soon available again, price down 20€ without shipping.
Can be used with the H&V sync available inside to VGA screen which handles the 15KHz.
Screenshots comparison still in p.1.
#12
fixed.
super system card on Everdrive + SCD + CDromrom = don't works.
#13
Hi guys, I use this topic to avoid opening another one. I decided to bring back to life a dead  CDR² unit. I know mine had a middle gear issue, and send my regards to PC Kid from the French forum dedicated to NEC consoles, who provided me a new gear, that he made with a supplier he know. The easy part with the old one is it turn into dust very quickly with age.

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https://i.postimg.cc/9XspDhTX/DSC-0891.jpg


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Once done, I removed the little plastic chips stuck in the grease, check the complete rotation of the new gear and I used a original game and I did face to the "Wait a Moment" issue.

Ok so the CD spin it's a good point, but I decided to test first an audio CD, TesseracT - Altered State 432hz, tracks are detected quickly then only scratching noise when attempting to read then stop quickly. I decided to adjust directly last pots while reading.
For that I removed the bottom case, put down an isolation paper to avoid short and give it a try on VR105.

the audio came back and the reading seems smoothy with less mechanical noises.
I did try a CD game (Spriggan) with success but I encountered some issues with SCD.
With Deden no Den I had Macroblocking picture right after launching the game and with Emerald Dragon green screen.

I think I'm not too far from fixing it, and I think perhaps I'll have to check again the VR105 (Voltage control oscillator, right ?) I can have an oscilloscope for testing RF pin, so any screen example will be appreciated.
Thanks.
#14
Quote from: elmer on 03/27/2017, 01:34 PMWe definitely don't want to release a half-completed translation just because some people are impatient. Too much time and work has gone into this for that.

It shouldn't be too long ... the web-pages made great progress this weekend.  :D
it's not about impatience, just personally I prefer the Japanese acting when it's related to voices.
the top would be to release a dubbed and no dubbed version as you mentioned it.
#15
You're right, so in order to don't be totally off the topic, I'll reply you, the both. [-o<
#16
Do you consider releasing as it and giving just some translation sheets for the dubbing part ?
#17
Quote from: turbokon on 05/04/2016, 01:11 PMActually we were already working on this before stumbling across ichigobankai's post.  Thesteve already started on the layout before I saw ichigobanki post.  However having ichigobanki's cards on hand did helped on the programming aspect of it.
Ichigo worked on it since at least April 2014 on a french website (and at the time he worked on it for a couple of months).
#18
I don't understand why people don't use SMD electrolytic Cap with same footprint as original, make it simple dude !
#19
nope, it was a problem with the sodipeng amp not wired, so is problem fixed for RGB, but still a little sync problem, when CVBS is connected directly from expansion port to SCART 20 it works (original wire from DIN cable is removed), when cable is normally use and a wire cabled between expansion port and pin 3on the Din there is some deformation/waves on a side of the TV

edit: fixed.

Another one.
Lens go up and down, beam is visible then "set disc" message ?
The SCD² was recap by a non professional of the job.
#20
Hi guys,

I try to help someone who did recap a SCDR² and it doesn't work in RGB now.
the cable works fine with the core.
I asked him to try simple link from expansion port (with its Sodipeng cable)
there is just CVBS for sync, 0V and 5V for fast blanking in Scart 16, then 2 colors through the Sodipeng.
here are the results the colors are added and saturated there is no additive colors.

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the CVBS works fine when pin 16 is removed, all in grey with 3 colors when plugged.
Any idea ?
#21
Did someone have the schematic on the power supply from jack socket to 7805 input, from what I remind there is a power diode, then a PNP mosfet and NPN mosfet with some zener diodes.
#22
Yes, such guys are jewels to the community.
#23
cleaning and put new grease perhaps.
The Flat Ribbon is not inverted if the console was ever unmounted ?
#25
probably damaged trace or via.
cleaning needed.
#26
which sync signal do you use ?
#27
Why looking to this while you found that the problem came from your Huc connector ?
#28
normally no, some friend fried fuses on PC engine twice without further problem on chips.
#29
So, it's not your connector but a dying Huc.
#31
bad traces of bad soldering.
#32
Quote from: esteban on 06/28/2015, 01:21 AMCall me crazy, but I observed this:

More intense/greater amount of "white" (lighter colors) on CRT screen --> more pronounced buzz/high-pitched whine.

Buzzing is not just due to the intensity of "white" displayed on screen...but it is a factor, perhaps.

I am sure the gurus can explain why this happens, in addition to crosstalk (and _____ and _____).
I agree, white is 0.7V level on analog video (the higher voltage) perhaps there is coupling on audio
#33
for the Huc glitches, I'll go for reflowing Hu ic's, ram and connection port
#34
picture you provided is too bad quality to see if there some shorts.
#35
2 sold.
#36
mmm... I would worry about cleaning old parts this way for long terms issue (porosity ? humidity ?) perhaps for no reason
#37
I think it's better to use isopropylic (exact english name?) alcohol, but nevertheless it works.
I hope for you it'll keep this way.
#38
Do you try to reflow this pin ?
#39
I have a weird PC genjin 2 which make some glitches with incorrects backgrounds like you.
As you don't have another Huc, I think that it could really be the source of your issue.
Get some Huc to confirm.
#40
I should have a complete scheme for this one, but I can't have a look before next week.
#41
you should have twice less minimum at cold, and a decrease as soon as the time goes by.
Follow the trace from the via under the cap and clean it, there is perhaps another issue.
#42
Check pin 4 on CN103 connector, the voltage should be as low as possible to 0V. According to the result, probably the 1000µF capacitor next to the heatsink leaked on a via located under this cap.
#43
Here are the Values I measured once for a fixed one:

1: 8V (V supply)
2: 3.4V (input 1)
3: 3.1V (output 1)
4: 5.52V (Vréf)
5: 8V (Low pass filter)
6: not connected
7: gnd
8: 5V (volume control)
9: gnd
10: 2.8V (Balance control)
11: gnd
12: 5.52V (wire to 4)
13: 3.1V (output 2)
14: 3.4V (input 2)

It seems that you have to check the traces on your supply pin.
#44
Free shipping until end of the week.
#45
Do you use a Scart ?
wire unplugged in it ? pin misalignement ?
#46
1 sold.
And Bump.
#47
I think VR102 is next to the 10K-18K range, you have to measure pitch between legs to search which one could fit (I suppose many could). I don't know how many turns are capable of the OEM trimmers, but if you wish set it precisely, it's a parameter you have to take in count.
#48
Curious that the chip was damage.
I know someone who reverse 5V polarity from a PC engine to my RGB board on expansion port and it blow the fuse.
Hopefully there was no damage on the console nor the amp of the board.
did you check your 5V is correct ?
#49
Great !
another one saved from the trash. (A mod should update title with fixed)
#50
If your regulator output 0.4V, you surely have a short circuit.
Check it off with ohmeter. If it's after your recap, I'll have a look on it.