10/31/2023: Localization News - Dead of the Brain 1!

No, NOT a trick, a Halloween treat! Presenting the Dead of the Brain 1 English patch by David Shadoff for the DEAD last official PC Engine CD game published by NEC before exiting the console biz in 1999! I helped edit/betatest and it's also a game I actually finished in 2023, yaaay! Shubibiman also did a French localization. github.com/dshadoff/DeadoftheBrain
twitter.com/NightWolve/PCENews
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Messages - Eddiesamma

#1
Are you using a 3rd party power brick ? If so what is the rating ?
#2
Sorry, that is how they are achieved on snes/genesis. I meant to include that presumably it could be done with an address change from the controller port. Need a higher level tech mind to speak on this.
#3
In theory it could be done with say a pic micro controller, or atmel chip like an at tiny or the like. Not an expert programmer or anything but you highjack reset button pins, and wire those to the i.o. of the micro controller as well as your high and low for the existing region mod of your choice. Holding reset would cycle the state as well as reset the console. You would defiantly have to get the timing right so it doesn't reset then toggle but could be doable.
#4
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 03/02/2017, 09:35 PMYeah, I don't know why I'd want a PCE in my cab either.
the pc engine has a giant library of arcade style games and ports. I mean dragon spirit and r type would be great for a home arcade.
#5
Oh, good to see someone is on this project. That price isn't to bad either. I was thinking single use due to the rgb amp being different from standard caps/resistors that rgb ready consoles use. Any reviews on those for pc engine use ?
#6
So I'd like to see what the interest would be in the community for a newly designed jamma adapter for the pc engine/tg 16. I have seen them but they seem very numbered and I haven't seen anyone working on a reproduction of it. Something plug and play through the expansion port and controller input.
#7
It would be alot more efficient to hit adafruit and get a charge boost circuit and then ebay a healthy lipo pack. I think turbokon has a thread about adding a lipo pack to the express that uses that idea.
#8
Exactly, remove the 75 ohm in and have like 1.5 k to voltage on the input or say 5k pots to test. Then have them tied to ground on the output. Also may need some decoupling caps after the pull up resistors. So it would be R--- 0.1uf--5.3mresistor--i.c.--(maybe 220uf cap)--75ohm--Pr.
#9
Have you tried pull up resistors on the color channels before the i.c. ? Most rgb mods have the channels pulled up and then pulled down after the transistor/i.c.
#10
When I say high end I mean on the buy an n.e.c. broadcast monitor instead price range lol
#11
Assuming that your talking about a standard definition tube tv, it will not work. The sync signal is about 2/3 higher than what it's expecting. However there are cheap vga to s-video adaptors and composite. And higher end vga to component adaptors that can correct the signal to what a standard tube is expecting.
#12
Are you using the official power brick for the dock ?
#13
Edit* top right of the card slot.
#14
Did a little research (google) and seems pin 1 is card detect. Hope this helps. If you can shoot me the label on the chip to the top left of the slot I can find a datasheet for the multiplexer and maybe help a little more. But for now you can check the voltage in pin 1 with and without a card inserted to see if it's stuck reading that a card is active in the slot. Or hit theSteve up who probably has this stuff memorized and can point to point tell you exactly what's wrong lol.
#15
There is a multiplexer chip above the hue card slot, seems to be functional mostly as it is loading the hue card roms but isn't switching to the on-board rom when the slot is not detected. If you can find the pinout of said multiplexer you should be able to determine if it's held low or high when the slot is present and go from there. Also could be that it's a short on the slot continually holding it high as if a card is present. Google hue card pinout and check for +5 on any pins that shouldn't have it.
#16
There is a good chance it's the connection to the av out din, try wiggling the cable to see if it cuts in/out.
#17
Been a while but I found the problem to be where I was pulling composite from. Swapped from the expansion slot to the rf pad and viola perfect picture.
#18
The method I used for my consoles is on the s-video mod thread I think Drakken was the one who thought to remove the resistor but he was doing 2 direct taps for Y and C and TheSteve mentioned that the amp must still be built for that method. And my TG16 is modded identical to this and it looks perfect, no checkerboard pattern whatsoever. I may redo it and just double check that chroma and luma are completely separated. It almost seems like I could turn the sharpness down on my television and remove it.
#19
I hope that helps lol.
#20
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#21
Hey Keith, it's the same method using the rf's composite for my C signal I just omit the low pass filter cap by removing the resistor that combines the luma and chroma signals coming from the huc6260. I still build the npn transistor and resistor amp. I used a 3904npn and a 220 ohm resistor. Looks great on the tg16 but breaks composite out and with the pce it looks just as sharp and vibrant but it has a checkerboard pattern.
#22
Not as of right now. I'm super happy with the tg16's S-video and even the pce's I'm just trying to find out if anyone else has this checkerboard pattern on their white base pc engine.
#23
So I have a tg16 I modded with a status light and s-video ect and wanted to swap to a pc engine for my first region mod ect ( I just love the foot print of this thing) I successfully region modded it with the twin multiplexers and a toggle switch added stereo with 2 100 uf caps at 16 volts and then went to the s-video mod. I have removed the resistor that combines the luma to chroma lines so I can bypass the pf filter cap (don't care to have composite) I used the same 3904 npn and 220 ohm resistor I used in the tg16 and I noticed right off that I have a checkerboard pattern in the color on my tv. I have a samsung lcd I play most of my consoles on if that helps, I went back to see if maybe I had some interference from an audio line coming through or something. I was wondering if anyone else has this problem or if it's something else. Just checked and it's nearly unnoticeable on a s-video crt.Also TG16 does not have this checkerboard pattern.
#24
I will, I know these nec boards don't like the heat to get to high, learned that when I recapped 5 express.
#25
The composite into component is a great test but it's not always 100 percent my friend got a duo from turbokon and even though he passed the test the 240p still had issues on his samsung so he inevitably did what any reasonable person would do and checked craigslist and got a tube tv to play his older game consoles including his duo. But the component picture was spot on so it's a catch 22 of sorts.
#26
Hey this is my first post here and wasn't sure where to place this particular problem. I have an american turbo duo that was recapped not to long ago and I started to region mod it with a diy region swap board. I built and used the same in my pce and no problems, but this is where I'm at now. I snipped and installed my region mod to the pins and at first it would swap to pce but nit to it's default assuming it was a wrong jumper or something on my bard I disconnected it double checked and re-wired it to the system and it wouldn't read either card. So I pulled it completely and strait wired it to it's default pinout and now it's white screen when I turn it on with a card inserted or not. I don't even get the sys card boot or an attempt to spin a disk. Any help would be greatly appretiated as this is my first duo.