10/31/2023: Localization News - Dead of the Brain 1!

No, NOT a trick, a Halloween treat! Presenting the Dead of the Brain 1 English patch by David Shadoff for the DEAD last official PC Engine CD game published by NEC before exiting the console biz in 1999! I helped edit/betatest and it's also a game I actually finished in 2023, yaaay! Shubibiman also did a French localization. github.com/dshadoff/DeadoftheBrain
twitter.com/NightWolve/PCENews
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Topics - atman

#1
Hi!

I have used sync from the 6260 pin44 and it was great. Just direct connection to the RGB scart-sync.

After I recapped it the duo the signal seems a bit noisy, only on black screen. When displaying black screen its a lighter tint on top and its a bit grainy.

My question is, what route should I use? I have used regular composite before with great result.
I want as great picture as possible.

1. Should I try with a 220uF capacitor?

2. Switch to regular composite, as I have done in the past (with IFU rgb mods)

3. Use the composite signal with a sync-stripper.
#2
Thougt I would mod my PC Engine Duo with a Bi-color LED.

Since the current LED only lights up when "busy" reading CD.

Thought I mod it with a 3-pinned bi-color LED. Green when it's powered on and yellow when its busy.
Thought I just add 5V with a 300ohm resistor to green anode. And when busy reading it getting voltage from both and gives yellow light.

Would be an easy mod if catode was ground. But it isn't

Any Idea how I should do?
#3
Managed to damage the VR103 pot on my Duo when I was removing the C133 cap. Thought it was out of alignment but it was permanently damaged.

I had a moherboard from a Super CD-rom that I had laying around. Took the VR103 from that one and it seems to work.

But, its a rather old VR, are there any schematics on the VR, are they the same values and what values are they specified?
#4
I have a PC Engine Duo system. I RGB modded it, placed a mini-din at the back and it works perfect!
Did not bother to recap it at that time. I checked the caps and they where originals, did not see any leaks.

The DUO works perfect, no issues with the CD-part. No problems with CD-R either.

The question is, should I recap it. I dont like to fix something that is not broken. But in the other hand, any cap can start leaking at any time.

What should I do?
It is better to use trough-hole electrolyt caps rather than original surface ones? Modern SMC will leak eventually as well?
#5
I have heard that Arcade Pro works with all PCE.
The Arcade Duo only works for Duo and Duo-R.

How will the original briefcase setup work with the Arcade Duo, not at all? Or just super cdrom games?
#6
Hi!

Theese questions are a bit general. But I understand that whats holding saves on a duo (and IFU) are the capacitor.

1. Is it possible to change that capacitor to a battery? For a more long term solution. Dont know how many weeks/months with no power before the cap charge is out.

2. Can I change a battery on a cartridge on the fly, meaning that I can put 3V DC into the cart from a external power supply while I change the battery?

Thanks in advance.
#7
I have a question regarding the CD-ROM2, also the CD ROM on the Duo.

Is there any sort of "shake" resume function on these drives?
My experience is that if I gently tap the CD-drive while in operation it skips, and music disapper.

And it may glitch out or the music goes mute util the game says it should change track.

Also when playing CD-audio, it needs "next" for resume the music.

Is this a correct behavior, or is something wrong?

Guess gen 1 CD drives are not so "smart"?
#8
Testing the continuity from the 6260 chip before i will pass it trough the RGB-amp.
Getting 4.1V from the RGB-lines to ground, unamplified voltage that is.

Also noticed that the sync outputs 5V (pin44), composite out outputs like 1.5V correctly.

How come all outputs so high values?

Is this correct?, seems a bit high?
Thougt the output was around 1.5-2.1V?
#9
GNDa on PC Engine Duo.

Anyone suggest a good Ground (analog) point on the PCE Duo for the RGB Amp.
Or will any GND do?
#10
Searched but could not find any similar problems.

I got the briefcase setup working yesterday thanks to Fidde_se.

The CD could very well read PCE games and played well. BUT, when I play for like 10min it will get unstable. It seems like it can read the games but the grapic will glitch out. Sometimes it will get stuck in a reading loop or someting and freezes.

When i reboot it will start up and so on, but works much worse than if its cold rebooted.

Whats is the problem, is it a weak laser?
Tried clean the connector with alcohol but no improvements.
#11
I have the standard "briefcase"-IFU setup.

I just had a PC Engine and the IFU to play with and I decided to buy a CDROM2 to the rig.
It was confirmed to work, and i is working IF i use it seperatly as a CD-player. Works really good.

But when I gonna use it in the IFU its dead. I suspect there is no power to the CD from the CDROM-EXT port.
Is there anyone that have a schematics for the CDROM-EXT-port?

And when I power on the IFU by slinging the front switch the CDROM should have power?, like should I be able to press play and get some sort of activity? (like when I have the CD connected to an external source)

Tried a 2.5A power supply with no luck. The PC-Engine itself works fine in the IFU.