RIP to BT Garner of MindRec.com... He passed away early 2023 from health problems. BT was one of the top PCE homebrew developers and founder of the OG Turbo List, then PCECP.com. Condolences to family and friends.
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Messages - jelloslug

#901
I know I saw it in VG&CE and Gamepro but the EGM issue is the one that sticks in my mind:

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#902
IT LIVES!  I powered it back up and used in IR thermometer to see if anything else was getting hot.  Capacitor CC901 was getting hot very quickly also so I removed it from the board and powered it back up and everything worked.  I don't know if was shorted under the cap or if the cap is bad.  The unit works without the cap so what is the function of that cap?  I also need to fix the AC power jack so if someone knows the pinout of the jack on the board that would be great.
#903
Quote from: thesteve on 10/04/2012, 08:07 PMnew ground?
can you temporarily remove the transistor
I ran a temporary ground wire from one of the shielding points back to the battery pack wiring until I can fix the damage around the AC adapter jack.  Yes, I can remove the transistor.
#904
Quote from: thesteve on 10/04/2012, 06:53 PMyes the shields are ground
power comes in, goes through filter, to power jack, to filter, to fuse, to switch.
from switch it splits to 5V supply, -24V supply and backlight inverter
With the new ground I now get the backlight and light static in the headphone jacks and nothing else.  Also, transistor Q502 gets really hot very fast.  I'm thinking that there still is a dead short somewhere.
#905
It does seem like I have indeed lost ground.  I'm assuming that all the shielding is hooked to ground.  Are one of those pads a safe place to hook up a temporary ground to test with? I don't want to compoud the problem by nuking something else.
#906
Quote from: thesteve on 10/04/2012, 04:54 PMlol
you need to be checking + lead to - lead on each cap
I'm sure I did that too and got nothing.  I'll be home in 20 minutes or so and I can take a look at it then.  I'm really suspect of the area where the power comes in from the AC jack and the battery connection.  The AC jack was toast and had burnt the board and ruined the pads where it was soldered on.  I removed my repair from the area just to be sure that it was not shorting out anything but there was no change.
#907
Quote from: thesteve on 10/04/2012, 03:00 PMboth sides?
to ground..........
so you lost a ground
Positive lead on each of the the capacitor leads, negative lead on the negative lead from battery connection.
#908
Quote from: thesteve on 10/04/2012, 01:04 AMthe chipset and sound should work without the 24, its for the screen only.
the pop is from the amp, not the chipset.
what caps did you use?
and please check them for voltage (meter across cap power on)
The caps were a kit I bought specifically for the TE.  There is 5V on both sides of all the caps.
#909
Quote from: thesteve on 10/04/2012, 12:01 AMany sound?
Nothing.  Not from the speaker or the headphone jack, not even a pop when you turn the system on.  Both the speaker and the headphone jack were working properly before the problems started.

Also, just to clarify, when the system failed for the last time the game started and then just froze up after about a second, then the next few times when you turned it on you got just the backlight and then lastly nothing happened. I had to replace the AC jack so I'm wondering if I might have damaged some of the components under the gray glue on the back side of the board near where the pins on the AC jack poke through.
#910
I went over both sides of the board looking for dead shorts and I could not find anything.  What caps have to be replaced when a unit usually won't power on? 
#911
Polarity is good and the controller ribbon is fine.  I'm not getting 24V at the video connector and the system still appears to be dead.
#912
Quote from: thesteve on 10/03/2012, 10:46 PMcheck the 5V regulator for system function, and the 24V supply for the brightness issue.
the 5V can be found on most caps.
the 24V on 1 cap and 1 pin on the display
I have 5V at every cap but I could not find 24V anywhere.
#913
The batteries are not it, I put a fresh set in with no change.  Everything was working fine until I closed it up then everything stopped working right.
#914
I working on a TE that needed a full cap replacement.  Everything was going well, all the caps went in OK and all the standard issues were repaired.  I closed it back up, powered it up and the first thing that happened was that the brightness wheel no longer worked but the brightness was still OK.  Very shortly afterward the backlight started flickering and the unit shut down.  It would power back for for no more than half a second and then it was all dead.  The 1 amp fuse was blown so I check the board over for shorts and replaced the fuse.  With the fuse replaced the backlight would come on and that was it.  The new fuse does not blow but nothing else works.  And pointers on where to looks would be great.
#915
I bought a set a while back and they are great!
#916
I met up with him last night and bought what he had left for a fair price.  The system card was gone but I did get the Turboexpress and several games, some loose, some complete.  The TE needs a few caps replaced but overall its in good shape.
#917
Shoot, I'm still looking for one.
#918
Thanks for the scan!  I still would like to buy an original if anyone has one.
#919
Thanks for the Bomberman '93 scan!
#920
That would be awesome!  It's sucks that I have the game, sleeve, box and even the little plastic box tray but I managed to loose the manual....
#921
Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB: Bomberman '93 manual
09/20/2012, 08:54 AM
It seems that my manual for Bomberman '93 has wandered off.  I'm looking for one in decent shape.