Sega Lord X reviews the Street Fighter II Champion Edition PC Engine port.
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Messages - famiac

#1
Just to help out people who want to try this in the future (sorry for the necro)

This battery fits perfectly into the GT's compartment and has the right specs.
IMG

I used the adafruit powerboost 1000C, as suggested, and tied the 5.2V output directly to the voltage input pin of the AC adapter port. Still not sure where to cut if I want to separate the port from the rest of the console, since the solder mask is stupidly thick.
#2
oh ok. I'll take a look at your pot adjustment guide

EDIT: No amount of adjusting VR102 or VR104 is getting the CD to spin
#3
Will do. I don't have a multimeter at my apartment but I will check it tomorrow.

Edit: the motor power cable wasn't fully plugged in. Now the laser will move and attempt to focus, but the disc still doesn't spin.
The motor is direct drive, so it's not a gear problem.
I'm starting to think the motor went bad. I'll have to check the voltage lines first.

Edit 2: I checked the voltage lines on the motor, and they're at 0. Could i have fried something with static charge?
#4
Hey guys. Sorry I've been gone for so long. I was out of the country over the summer.

I replaced the laser today and now discs won't spin at all. How do I go about adjusting the pots? I saw a guide for the other CD units, but I'm not sure if they apply to this one.

EDIT: Some additional information

During the swap, one of the wires on the laser connector broke, but I soldered it back. I don't know if any other wires may have broken

When I put in a disc and hit run, the laser as well as the busy LED turn on, but the motor does not move the laser and the disc does not spin. Additionally, if i open and close the lid, then hit run, the laser stops turning on and so does the busy light.
#5
I was just about to post about this. My roommate just showed me the twitter post
#6
It does play original games without any problems.
#7
huh.. interesting.

Yeah my scdr2 can play audio cds perfectly

if it needs a new laser, won't i have to adjust the pots?

really not keen on doing that, since it's difficult on the super cd rom2

EDIT: LOL it works perfectly when upside down. Would a pot adjustment fix this, or is it time for a new laser?
#8
Hm ok. I'll try using a different cd. I'm just using imgburn to burn at 4x speed. Do you recommend a different program?
#9
I'm using Taiyo Yuden CD-Rs burned at 4x speed with a plexwriter drive.

What's the best way to check for gear damage?
#10
Both of those things have been done
#11
Hey guys

My SCDROM2 was working just fine before i left the state. Now that i'm back home, i tried loading a backup CD-R, and the game fails to load/takes an incredibly long time. The drive keeps making a clicking sound. I could upload a video if this is an uncommon problem.

I was wondering if anybody has experienced this before and/or knows what is going on.

Any help would be appreciated.
#12
It was resolved. The BVMs sure are picky

The details are here:
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=55732
#13
You connect the 5.2v to the collector?

You mentioned you used a voltage divider.
What's the impedance of the GT? Or, what value resistor did you use for the voltage divider?
#14
Alright, an update for you guys.

I terminated every single BNC output. Still no dice.

I figured a couple more things out.
I removed the LM 1881, and fed the pvm pure sync from pin 44, using this circuit:
http://console5.com/wiki/File:Hu6260_RGB_Amplifier_Schematic.png


Same issue.
The shearing jittered a little bit back when i had the lm1881 in, but now it's back to how it was before.


I discovered that the shearing happens on all other channels as well! even when the pc engine's input card isn't selected. This could be a clue. Note: this only happens with my supergrafx

More pics:
https://imgur.com/a/atmSd

Edit:
I also get the exact same behavior when i use a t connector to combine the sync and green and set the bvm to use internal sync.
#15
I'd like to use the internal jack to charge the battery. How do i separate the internal ac adapter socket from the rest of the circuit board? Are you cutting traces?
#16
About to attempt this. Did you just wire the Powerboost 1000C to the pc engine's voltage regulator ouput? Are there other things that need to be done?

Also, just to maker sure i'm getting this right, where is the voltage regulator output pin?

thanks
#17
Do you need advice on lifting the legs?

I sanded down a bobby pin using a dremel cutting disk so that it was really fine.
They're usually made of reaaaally tough metal, so they work well to gently jiggle a heated leg, even when thin.
#18
Yeah i noticed. Thanks
#19
Got it working! Thanks for the help, steve.

It would't work from unregulated power. I connected 5V,  ground, VGL, and VHL as shown in the thread steve referred me to
#20
Wouldn't that reduce battery life? Maybe not dramatically

To turn down the 24V clockwise, that would mean turning it clockwise, right?
#21
Progress?

I connected the LCD controller board using a 12V psu, and it works. (only on its original lcd)

The image is noticeably less sharp than the scrolling one, but i might settle for it.

Does anybody know why it works with 12V input but not when the buck IC is bypassed? It must have something to do with other components requiring the 12V, but has anybody figured out how to bypass the 12V on this board specifically?

pmZ0QOBl.jpgMJGGOZEl.jpg
#22
Yeah i thought it looked like 23ohms too, but i wasn't quite sure.

I use a modified a din socket. There are only 4 signals. Red, green, brue, and sync. The RGB signals are definitely present, and the sync is there. It's just not working properly on my BVM.

About terminating the outputs:
does every single output on the BVM have to be terminated, or just the ones on the slot i'm using?
#23
Crap. Does anyone have an LCD that they confirmed working?
#24
The LM1881 did not help. I still have the same problem. Could there be a problem with the composite circuit? I replaced all of the caps, and as far as i know i didn't lift any traces. The image does work on a different monitor, after all.

It may be worth noting that R159 is missing. I think that normally it should be there. Can anyone check its value?

here's the location

picturepush.com/public/14519585
20150106-110413.jpg

This image is not mine.
#25
So i tried it with a different controller board, but all i got was a white screen if the composite was connected
If it wasn't connected, i got a black screen/off

Does it have to do with how the stepdown is bypassed?
Should i just buy a new LCD?
#26
Hm alright. My roommate has a controller board for the same monitor. I'll test it using his.

Quote from: turbokon on 10/27/2015, 09:34 PMAlways test first before installing
Yeah, i was just overconfident.
#27
Are you serious? Is it really the LCD or is it the controller board?

The LCD is glued in pretty tightly, so i'd like to avoid removing it
#28
So i attempted this mod over the weekend. I wish i had seen this thread before. It would have saved me a lot of headache on saturday trying to figure out how to cut the case.

I've only got one problem:
The image scrolls vertically on the LCD.

IMG

Any idea what could be wrong ?

I'm using a BC548 rather than a 547.
#29
Yeah. That's how it's configured right now
#30
Ok, i've tried adding the 220uf cap and terminating the outputs. None of those worked, so i'm gonna try the lm1881 as a last resort.
#31
The sync was amplified, but i disconnected the amp after i saw the image shearing because that's how chris covell got his to work. It was part of the trial & error process. I could reconnect it.
#32
Ok, so it's definitely connected to c-sync.

I added a 220uf cap in series. I'll report back tomorrow to see if it worked.

IMG
#33
I can also do recaps.

Here's a photo of my work on a pc engine gt

Caps off:
IMG

Caps replaced:
IMG

I take time to clean the pcb properly from the electrolytic fluid, if it has leaked.

Let me know if you need help with anything.
#34
Ok. I will try all of your suggestions. I bought some 75 ohm terminators. I only have one right now.

Thanks guys
#35
I'm pretty sure, if not positive, that i tapped the signal from the correct c-sync pin. Also, my pvm, which does display the image properly, would not display it if i was actually feeding it composite video. I will double check, though.

Thanks for the tip. I'll open it over the weekend. My gamebit is at my parents' house.
#36
Hi all.

I modified my SGX using the amp on the gamesx website. Much like Chris Covell, i experienced image shearing after the initial mod, but only on my BVM 20F1U. I removed the amplifier as Chris suggested here, but i'm still getting the same problem.

Any idea what might be causing this?

IMG

Edit:

terminated every single BNC output. Still no dice.
I also get the exact same behavior when i use a t connector to combine the sync and green and set the bvm to use internal sync.
I tried using an LM1881, but i also got the same behavior.

I removed the LM 1881, and fed the pvm pure sync from pin 44, using this circuit:
http://console5.com/wiki/File:Hu6260_RGB_Amplifier_Schematic.png
Same issue.

I discovered that the shearing happens on all other channels as well! even when the supergrafx's input card isn't selected. This could be a clue. Note: this only happens with my supergrafx.
I don't have any other pc engine variants to test with.

Note: I get a nice and stable picture on my two PVM monitors.


More pics:
#37
The listing shows that the battery has a 10Wh specification. The turbo express/pce gt acts as a 4.6W load, so the battery should only be able to power it for ~2.2hours.

Turbokon, could you try running it on a full charge, preferably on a system using the stock screen, and telling us what happens?
#38
You could attach your own momentary switch
#40
Are they compatible? I don't think the I/II buttons are the same size as A/B buttons
#41
The buttons work, but the rubber pads are splitting where the conductive part meets the rubber. So, the D-pad works when i press, but the pads have caved in, so i don't feel the button being pushed down as i press.

This is a common problem for controllers
#42
Right right. Those things have been fixed.
Thanks, though.

Do you know where to find replacement button pads?
#43
Hah ok. I'll take your word for it. I'll probably replace the screen though.
#44
Alright! So i rewired the battery connector  to the ac adapter, as you suggested, and it works!

I then went on to give it a full treatment. Replaced all caps, cleaned pcb/buttons. Works really well now.

Couple more questions:

Does anybody know where i can find button pad replacements? The rubber pads on my gt are kind of worn out.

Also, is the stock display really this awful?
The colors around the text are awfully inaccurate.

IMG

Thanks!
#45
Right. I know how to do all of that, i was just concerned about damaging the board by doing this.

Thanks for the info
#46
The brown connector is the battery socket input. I think the batteries aren't directly connected to the AC input port.
#47
alright. It's scraped off. The damaged components are L501 and L502. I can't see where a trace could be broken, but while i was scraping at it some piece of copper came off, probably from one of the inductors. Does anybody know the values on them?

IMG
#48
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll try it out. Is there a better way to get rid of the gray sludge than scraping? I don't want to risk damaging it any more than it already has been.
#49
Hm ok. I have some pictures. Apparently this is the result of a botched ac adaptor port replacement. While the previous owner was scraping the gunk off, he accidentally damaged some of the SMD components around it.

I'm guessing that first i need to remove the gray gunk to see what's up.
Also, this thing is long overdue for a cap kit. I'll do that once i get battery power working.

here are some pictures if anybody has any info:

IMG



This is with the AC adapter plugged in
IMG
#50
Hi guys, new to the forum here, but i hope i can stay and contribute. Currently new to NEC world.

So i bought a PC engine GT, but the previous owner damaged the SMD components on the power circuit, so the console will not work with batteries, but it will work with the AC adapter plugged in.

It's a strange problem, i know. The previous owner said the components were resistors but i have yet to open up and check. Another issue is that the screen has some color glitches. I'll post a picture soon. I suspect that changing the capacitors might fix this.

Does anybody have access to the schematics? Or would anyone be willing to help me once i find the exact part numbers?