12/31/2025: Localization News - Year of the Dragon...Emerald Dragon!
As an update. I sent the system off to Keith Courage, and it's now working perfectly. I'm still considering getting rid of the system eventually, but now I can enjoy the games I have left on the actual system instead of emulating. Thanks again!
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Supper the Subtitler struck again! Simply unstoppable, NOTHING can prevent him from TOTAL PCECD localization domination!!!! WHACHA GONNA DO BROTHER?!?! |
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#1
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: TurboDuo - 1 second of audio then cut to silence (Hu and CD)
09/03/2018, 04:25 PM
#2
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: TurboDuo - 1 second of audio then cut to silence (Hu and CD)
07/17/2018, 02:10 AM
Yeah, both capacitors are making solid contact. The headphone jack has the same issue, power on the system, about a second of full stereo audio, then cut to silence.
#3
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: TurboDuo - 1 second of audio then cut to silence (Hu and CD)
07/16/2018, 09:48 PM
Quote from: Keith Courage on 07/15/2018, 11:41 PMNo reason to give up on it if it can be repaired. I'd be happy to repair it for you if you don't want to deal with it for a small fee.I'm not sure I need the console anymore. I've found an emulator that allows me play the remaining CD games off the original discs, so that's probably what I'll be doing. I was planning on selling the console and games once I finished with them. I'm not sure how much I could get for it in the current state though.
Do you think it's an easy fix? If you're up for it I'll send it off to you.
Quote from: NightWolve on 07/16/2018, 12:52 AMI'm fairly sure I don't have the tools to replace an IC, and I'd end up damaging it if I tried.Quote from: ZenicReverie on 07/15/2018, 10:11 PMI think I'm just done with this system. Thanks for the help.Not what we like it to hear! Never surrender!!! ;)
#4
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: TurboDuo - 1 second of audio then cut to silence (Hu and CD)
07/15/2018, 10:11 PM
That chip does not look easy to replace. I do see what looks like might be corrosion under the top right pin at least. Using my meter I get 0 V between the two even though I can get it to ping. I'm not sure how to check the grounding pin.
I don't think I would have been brave enough to try replacing that with all the caps off when I first replaced them. I think I'm just done with this system. Thanks for the help.
I don't think I would have been brave enough to try replacing that with all the caps off when I first replaced them. I think I'm just done with this system. Thanks for the help.
#5
Console Repair/Mod Center / TurboDuo - 1 second of audio then cut to silence (Hu and CD)
07/12/2018, 01:42 AM
Nearly 2 years ago I went through a successful full cap replacement on my TurboDuo: https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=21541.msg473529#msg473529
That was followed by happily playing through about 5 games, 4 CD and 1 Hu, over the next year with only a minor stereo issue that I could bypass by adjusting the A/V cable into a different position. I didn't bother to resolder the DIN as I didn't want to disturb a working system any more than I had to. The system has been sitting on a shelf unpowered since then until today when I plugged it in to play a CD game, and noticed there was no sound (again). I tried a Hu-card game, and noted there is initially full audio for about a second before it cuts out completely (tested 5+ times, confirmed each time).
I'm still quite new to troubleshooting audio issues on a console like this, so I'm looking for ideas on how to determine where the fault lies. I have a multi-meter, but aside from an obvious burnt or leaking cap I'm not sure how to determine if any of them have gone bad. I won't have time to open it up and attempt this until the weekend. Any ideas or guidance is welcomed. Will follow-up on Saturday.
That was followed by happily playing through about 5 games, 4 CD and 1 Hu, over the next year with only a minor stereo issue that I could bypass by adjusting the A/V cable into a different position. I didn't bother to resolder the DIN as I didn't want to disturb a working system any more than I had to. The system has been sitting on a shelf unpowered since then until today when I plugged it in to play a CD game, and noticed there was no sound (again). I tried a Hu-card game, and noted there is initially full audio for about a second before it cuts out completely (tested 5+ times, confirmed each time).
I'm still quite new to troubleshooting audio issues on a console like this, so I'm looking for ideas on how to determine where the fault lies. I have a multi-meter, but aside from an obvious burnt or leaking cap I'm not sure how to determine if any of them have gone bad. I won't have time to open it up and attempt this until the weekend. Any ideas or guidance is welcomed. Will follow-up on Saturday.
#6
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Zero experience TurboDuo cap replacement (low CD audio only) -- ran into issues
10/26/2016, 11:58 PM
Forgot to update. So far it's back in working condition! Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it.
I took the advice and cleaned the board the weekend before. A lot of grime (flux?) came off, as well as another pad. A week later, I added solder to the rest of the pads still on the board, and then started the replacement process.
Most went smoothly, but connecting the cap legs to the vias was the most difficult. Getting the solder to connect the leg to the copper thread was not working, so in all cases I had to fit the leg into the via and solder it in place.
I haven't played more than an hour so far, but the fact that there was sound right away was really promising. Also, no burning smell is a good sign, right?
One last thing I'm hoping to get some help with, my A/V cable seems to a bit loose. I have to wiggle and manipulate it to get the right stereo channel to come through. Aside from just getting a new cable, what can I do to improve the connection?
I took the advice and cleaned the board the weekend before. A lot of grime (flux?) came off, as well as another pad. A week later, I added solder to the rest of the pads still on the board, and then started the replacement process.
Most went smoothly, but connecting the cap legs to the vias was the most difficult. Getting the solder to connect the leg to the copper thread was not working, so in all cases I had to fit the leg into the via and solder it in place.
I haven't played more than an hour so far, but the fact that there was sound right away was really promising. Also, no burning smell is a good sign, right?
One last thing I'm hoping to get some help with, my A/V cable seems to a bit loose. I have to wiggle and manipulate it to get the right stereo channel to come through. Aside from just getting a new cable, what can I do to improve the connection?
#7
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Zero experience TurboDuo cap replacement (low CD audio only) -- ran into issues
10/11/2016, 03:05 AM
Thank you very much for the quick reply. This gives me a lot of hope. I'll try what you mentioned, but won't have time until the weekend to get back to this. I'll have to pick up a solder wick and x-acto knife it sounds like.
#8
Console Repair/Mod Center / Zero experience TurboDuo cap replacement (low CD audio only) -- ran into issues
10/10/2016, 10:48 PM
I'm coming into soldering PCB work with nearly zero experience. After contacting a couple console repair shops in the area, getting no responses, I decided to get the tools myself. Videos made it look like a simple process. I made a mistake, and hoping the community here can help. (I don't know how I missed the existence of this site before. I would have asked for help here first.)
C122 + C102
1) My obvious mistake: C122 in the lower right of the picture. While trying to remove an old cap leg I accidentally pushed it a little too much too early, and the entire pad came off the board. I nearly lost it. Thought of putting the pad threads through hole and soldering it there (small bit of solder primes below it), but realized I had no idea what I was doing and stopped. Looking for advice on where to attach the negative leg of the new cap.
2) The negative pad on C102 looks deteriorated, but still attached. As long as it's attached, it should be good to solder too, right? How can I test this?
Corrosion and other issues
3) The negative pad on C322 was completely corroded away, and came right off as I cleaned off the old solder. Again, where should I attach the negative leg of the new cap?
4) C612 had a lot of corrosion under the cap, but the pads still look good. I'm worried that the corrosion may have damaged the board. Looking for an experienced opinion on that area, and how to test for damage.
5) C306 was difficult to remove, and it seems that the metal surrounding the hole on the negative side may have been compromised (pulled away from the board?). How can I test that the connection is still good?
I haven't added new solder to any of the pads as I knew I wasn't ready to put all the new caps on yet. Hoping to get the console in working condition soon.
C122 + C102
1) My obvious mistake: C122 in the lower right of the picture. While trying to remove an old cap leg I accidentally pushed it a little too much too early, and the entire pad came off the board. I nearly lost it. Thought of putting the pad threads through hole and soldering it there (small bit of solder primes below it), but realized I had no idea what I was doing and stopped. Looking for advice on where to attach the negative leg of the new cap.
2) The negative pad on C102 looks deteriorated, but still attached. As long as it's attached, it should be good to solder too, right? How can I test this?
Corrosion and other issues
3) The negative pad on C322 was completely corroded away, and came right off as I cleaned off the old solder. Again, where should I attach the negative leg of the new cap?
4) C612 had a lot of corrosion under the cap, but the pads still look good. I'm worried that the corrosion may have damaged the board. Looking for an experienced opinion on that area, and how to test for damage.
5) C306 was difficult to remove, and it seems that the metal surrounding the hole on the negative side may have been compromised (pulled away from the board?). How can I test that the connection is still good?
I haven't added new solder to any of the pads as I knew I wasn't ready to put all the new caps on yet. Hoping to get the console in working condition soon.
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