10/31/2023: Localization News - Dead of the Brain 1!

No, NOT a trick, a Halloween treat! Presenting the Dead of the Brain 1 English patch by David Shadoff for the DEAD last official PC Engine CD game published by NEC before exiting the console biz in 1999! I helped edit/betatest and it's also a game I actually finished in 2023, yaaay! Shubibiman also did a French localization. github.com/dshadoff/DeadoftheBrain
twitter.com/NightWolve/PCENews
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Messages - haightc

#1
New boards are supposed to fixed with both the correct capacitor orientation and the cap mod.     You should definately make sure you board has both fixes applied, the backward cap is an issue.     I left mine alone and it was fine but the video noise got much worse and the backward tant cap won't immediately fail.    Also even with the firmware updated audio noise is still quite noticeable, so you want to have at least the decoupling cap installed. 
#2
I've tried searching for the HOP-E1 laser but is seems like most sources are out.    My PC-FX will not read any discs, doesn't even sound like it making an attempt.   I have tried adjusting the pot without avail.    Any current sources of laser units?
#3
I don't notice the audio noise that much on my system.
 I have my SSD3 hooked up to a coregrafx using HD retrovision cables to a JVC Dseries TV.   
I also have a SuperGrafx with a SuperCDROM2 connected to a JVC professional monitor.   
Comparing the the two the audio balance is definately different and the SSD audio is noisy that the SuperGrafx.     A PC Engine that is in need of a recap will definitely sound worse than this.
The is still some game play bugs that need to be worked out.   For example, I have been playing Mysterious Song recently on my SGFX+CD combo.   The game plays great on the CD system but for sure there is some pause between world map scene and the battles for switching audio tracks.
Playing this same game on the SSD3 there is no pauses and go in and out of battle is instant.
However one audio on the SSD3 seems quieter and less dramatic then on the real hardware.    On an RPG I guess this tones get a little droll after a few hours, but the SSD3 balance I feel kill a little of the wow factor.   Also with the SSD3 there were several graphical errors in the initial cut scene to present on original hardware.    IMO the SSD3 isn't still at a point where you could just store away your OEM CD-ROM.
#4
I missed the kickstarted but ordered pretty much when first offered to pre-order.   So I think that was little over a year ago now.   Looking forward to playing the game but I image there are still some folks ahead of me!
#5
I haven't really been able to play anything yet because I need repair my laseractive still
#6
I am a relatively new LA owner (early this year), I been slowly picking up titles as I can.
So far I have Rocket Coaster, Quiz Econosaurus, I-Will, Hi-Roller Battle, Virtual Cameraman 1+2, Pyramid Patrol.

Right now I am just trying to pickup titles for when I can find them under a $100 before I try to start going after my most wanted title.

My most wanted titles are
Hyperion: this is the game I played in Incredible Universe when it was on my display and made me want the system.
JB Harold Manhattan Requiem and Blue Chicago Blues:   I really like this game series, LA versions I think are ones that are in english or have an english option after Murder Club.
#7
I did order one of these, even though I have a couple Super CD-ROM2s.  Playing off an SD card and having per game saves make it worth it to me.
#8
I was thinking about starting a controller review thread.  I have several different controllers, there are lots of different mod and adapters.    I would be interesting to compare lag, feel and function of the many options available.
#9
Thanks for the details,  they is a repro of RockMan CD sitting at $20 on eBay right now and I was debating if I should bid on it.   I'll just wait, besides I have a mysterious song begging to to played.  A lot of times I dodn't get to play my PCE like I want to, so I usually play a shmup or a platform.   I play MegaMan usually only casually, so it's a good for a couple level playthough for me.
#10
Since I am really late this scene, when can I find this game?    I found the authors website and he reference downloads, but they aren't there.     I see a version from time to time on eBay, usually asking a obscene amount.    At the last retro gaming expo I was out a vendor had a stack of MegaMan CD copies that were PCEworks repros.     Are these PCEworx copies the only version of this game around?   Are they the final version, based on the creators blog he was reworking the sprites to make a better looking MegaMan game.   I'm not sure where this left off.   There is a thread on Sega-16 implying the copies being sold out there are not legitimate.    In this thread it implies, so took his work gave it to a german company with began to re-sell.  The author says in the thread that he was really mad that they did this and he expressly prohibited the resale for profit.   So is PCEworks the german company that was illegally selling and dsitrubuting the game as implied with thread?    So I am asking did this get completed or moved someplace newer?   Did nintendo/capcom issue a cease and decise order?   The last nintendo console I have owned was a gamecube, but it looks like they have turned into real @$$hats.

Sega 16 thread
http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthread.php?22497-Megaman-1-on-the-pc-engine-with-cd-audio

PCEdev site
https://pcedev.wordpress.com/category/megaman/
#11
This looks like a great game and I have been trying to get it for several months.     As someone who has entered the raffle I am not exactly incentivized to spread the word so to speak.    I'd gladly pay $20 which is more than what they where selling them for on eBay but I don't want to pay $100 that someone is trying to resell it at currently.    I think  so some people it might be a little off putting to put money forward to enter a raffle.    So my feeling is that any money I put out there it is gone.     Do you have idea when you planning to close the raffle for entries, I think that also makes a difference in peoples minds.
#12
Hey SM, I thought you moved to Brazil but I have a couple extra.    I have a core grafix I with a IFU-30 that's just sitting around, the backup capacitor still works but based on the audio noise in the IFU it looks probably need recap at some point.    I have a supergraphix pair with a super CD-ROM2 and coregrafx II with a Super CD-ROM2.      I like the look of the coregrafx II pair with the SuperCDROM2 but I've been debating the necessity of keeping it.
#13
actually for what it can do this isn't a bad price if you thinking about it.
It replaces and the interface unit and the cd-rom.    Getting a working IFU and CD-ROM will usually run you about $150, you'll likely then need to recap the both units and replace or upgrade the BRAM.     Then if the laser go out on a first gen unit, it can be hard to track down a replacement.   If you have a Super CD-ROM2 you can replace the laser with greater ease but these are often plagued with capacitor rot.    They claim the lag is 1 frame or less, which implies that it probably scales from the RGB or even digital output and is likely a good scaler.     The GDemu unit is intended to replace the earlier drives and will still require an IFU and given his current price I would expect it to be around $150.   

I wouldn't likely buy one however for several reasons.    I use RGB monitors, so I have no need to DVI or upscaling.      I have a supergrafx and coregrafx II with already had super CD-ROM 2s connected to them.      My CoreGrafx I has a IFU-30 connected but no CD-ROM, so maybe that'll get an ODE down the road to make it more portable.
#14
I haven't heard of any of these games before ( Sword Surfer and the Planet Police)
Sword Surfer looks fun and had great sound track.   Could find much on it other than one youtube video and the soundtrack.

Couldn't find anything about Planet Police.    I am guess perhaps a shmup or adventure game?

Would these be PC Engine games or perhaps I am missing a joke?


Quote from: Psycho Arkhan on 08/26/2017, 11:01 PMSemi-Irrelevantrelevant:

They had a functional dreamcast demo at a european game convention (gamescom)

but, again, without assets, we do not have a great starting point unless one expects Paul to do it all from scratch.

I am awaiting a response about what the current status is. 

If they intend to publish out from under us with little communication, maybe we will just make Sword Surfer and the Planet Police instead.
#15
I usually go to SRGE (Seattle Retro Gaming Expo), but bought tickets the PRGE (Portland Retro Gaming Expo) when I thought we were going to see Tool (same weekend).   I but the a full pass, but I am not sure if I'll go down for more than a day.   So I am assuming Henshin Engine will be on exhibit, it'll be nice to try it if that is the case and I don't already have the game by that point.   I wasn't sure if PGRE was another retro expo in Canada or something that I wasn't familiar with. 
#16
Quote from: guest on 08/15/2017, 01:20 PM
Quote from: guest on 08/15/2017, 01:10 PMBlack Tiger didn't go for the big reveal?
It was in Arizona. :P

If I can swing it at the time, I'll be at the PGRE.
Out of curiosity what is the PGRE?
#17
Looks like a cool shirt, put me down for the raffle!
#18
It seems like orange to me is the most logical choice, text/items in default state are white(ish).   The is intended to something and make it active/select the cursor should be the same color as the active color state, similar to a highlighter.
#19
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Wtb: supergrafx?
08/03/2017, 02:15 PM
If you patient you can get a good price, just be careful as the can get a cracked motherboard under the card slot pretty easy.    Trust me, it's not a fun or easy repair, is the system worth $200 probably not.   ghouls & ghosts looks awesome, but the difficulty of this title was a pretty big turn off.   For SGFX titles, I more likely going to what to 1942 or Aldynes.
#20
That's a pretty sexy looking reprint.   I'm not necessarily looking to make something that looks professional however.   Basically I just want something that's better than sharpie!

When I was at Seattle Retro Gaming Expo, there was a vendor that had a table full of PCE works reproductions that looked real legit.    They were also selling them for a lot less that what PCEWorks charges direct.   But I couldn't make myself pay $20 - $50 for reproduction ofs cd games, I think they where selling MegaMan for like $30.  Plus I have mixed feeling about buying them, but I still picked up a couple legit games.

As far as el cheapo CD-R I have been using a Super CD-ROM2, it seems to play them the same as real discs for me.
#21
If my post count was high enough, I would say put me in.  Sounds like an interesting game
#22
I haven't really put much thought in the media I use.    Cheap memorex disc seem to work just fine, but what about disc labeling.   As far as I can see there are few options

1) Print to stick on labels, had bad luck with these in the past.

2) Lightscribe, this is what I am current using.   These CD-Rs only come in 700mb but media is getting harder to find.   Prints nice images right onto the disc but adds some time to making a disc.

3) Using a thermal direct to cd printer.    I like this idea because I can pretty easily label already burn disc but it looks like the abilities are pretty limited.

4) Use a special inkjet printer that print right on to discs.     One can find archive grade media with relative ease that is direct printable, but the hardware cost and foot print would be really hard to justify.
#23
I have a Super CD-ROM 2 eject button that doesn't seem to really work.   The door latches fine, but I have to jimmy the door to get it to let go.    Can anyone this of a way to fix this, the mechanism is plastic and it's not immediately apparent what the issue is?
#24
shielding according to FCC regulations is intended to limit the radio emission of the device.     In regards to the necessity of shielding that is a different story, removing the RF modulator does remove some of the need for shielding.   The PC Engine and in particular the CD-ROM unit is much more susceptible to RF interference hence you'll want to retain the shielding.
#25
Is doing a fund raiser such a bad idea?  I would imagine there would be enough PCE fans to warrent it.
#26
I am not sure I would buy this but you easily fill it full awesome shoot'em ups.     I would say

Cotton
Gradius
Twin Bee
Parodius
Bonk
Military Madness
Klax
Bomberman '94
Snatcher
double dragon
Dracula X
adventure island
cosmic fantasy
final soldier
world court tennis
devil's crush
new zealand story
neutopia
magic chase
salamander

there are so many great PCE games how does one choose.
#27
The page suggest a slew of 16v and 50v, this will work especially if you have bought an assorted value cap kit which will most likely be 16v and 50v.   Technically it would probably be better to stick closer to the original values.
     
Check the console 5 wiki if you want more detailed info.
https://console5.com/wiki/Turbo_Duo
#28
Yes, check the second stickied thread.    Pretty much every cd-rom console would need to be re-capped at this point if not done already.   It's a little bit of a project, if you have replaced the laser successfully it shouldn't be to hard for you.   You should hear the the motor move back and forth when the disc is spinning.   If not it could be you amp(driver) chip and/or a gear especially if it exhibits that behavior post recap.
#29
In regard to the isolator, obviously you'll want to visually inspect the unit. You should want to test the continuity of isolator and the resistance.    Then check the voltage output of the transformer and make sure it's stable.   I think it's supposed to output 35v.   Audio noise in the circuit is usually indicative of transformer failure. If the voltage output is stable from the transformer verify current output of the isolator.
#30
L900 is underneath the foam next to the backlight transformer.
I bought a couple different isolators that just arrived this morning.

I installed this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a13070600ux0394-Radial-Leaded-Inductors/dp/B00EZA7OC8
The system turn on fine and the screen looks great, however the back light is not adjustable.   I can't see any difference then I rotate the knob.   I try one of my other isolators to see if it responds better, I should probably examine the transformer output as well.
#31
I might also check the isolator L900, when  recapping mine the isolator literally crumbled into bits when I removed the foam.  I would also inspect and test the back light transformer (t900) as well.   To me it sounds like you have some sort of voltage supply issue.     The work looks pretty clean however the photos, however when the diode or resistor fails it's not nearly as spectacular as traditional caps.
#32
This might not be be the right place to ask but...
In the store is the download version a ROM, ISO or intended as a PC download?
#33
I've played thought both the Saturn and SegaCD version.    I was under the impression that most folks considered the Saturn version the definative version for both Snatcher and Policenauts.   One I have a working cd-rom again I hope to play though the PCE version.   I don't like the 3d animated intro on the saturn version but I felt the game flowed better comared to the SegaCD version.   I would like to see an english translation of the Snatcher for PCE and 3do policenauts, but I had no problem playing though in Japanese.    For whatever reason I found myself struggling a little bit more to understand the story when playing policenauts. 
#34
IMG
IMG

I can't push the the opposing sides together I'll need to cut out some strain relief sections in the cracks before I can rejoin them.
#35
I replace those spots with radial caps and the replacements seem nice and secure.    However it doesn't turn on, I checked and found 5v in several places.      I did notice two legs were really dark around the transformer (t900)    When I tried to clean around it inductor L900 just fell apart  and crumbled off the pad.   Do you happen to know the spec on this, I want to say it said 101K?

Assuming it is 101kn this would mean it should be rate for 100uH ±10%.   The old inductor had four legs but there are just two large pads underneath.    I order a one from amazon last night hopefully and initial guess on the remainder specs will be correct.
#36
What is the function and path of these two capacitors?
When recapping the pad came off on the positive end.  My first attempt using solder paste didn't hold the cap down.   So I have tried again by scraping the top layer of the top of the lead, then I drew the pad and line out to the trace.   I did this last night so i should be able to test how well this worked later this evening.    103 was worse as the positive end pulled up a good share of the trace, also I notice the other pad had came off.   From what I can tell these both have pretty short though path that go to though holes.    My thought is that if the circuit pen method doesn't work I might be about to use a radial cap as a replacement and solder it there.   503 lead to a wide path so my thought is a could use radial there to bridge a path if required. 
Do you think this a reasonable approach?   
Are my assumptions correct?
#37
Well I time to start this system.   Fortunately the capacitors came out easy.   My crack is under the hucard slot. Unfortunately theses leads don't come as easily.   I got the first row out, but didn't have time to get the second row last night.
#38
I was wonder how the snes pads work over all I have an Avenue 6 and 3 and mouse.    Several games act a little quirky when playing with the av6, plus the pad is huge.    I would like the have smaller pad but they seem to go for $25+ these days.     If you have an adapter adapter I would be interest in that.   I didn't find anything with a quick search of SNES2PCE as you suggested however.   I did find a link about modding a NES controller so I may give that a go down the road.
Both SNES/SFC and NES controllers are in expensive.   Modern copies vary in quality but tend to be much better than the cheap genesis ones.   In the late 90s I would say the position was reversed.
#39
I have recapped a few other system, but man I struggling a little bit with my PC Engine GT and more so with my Super CD-ROM2.     Some of these caps are so corroded it's hard to get them to lift off.    Sometimes I can add a little solder and they'll lift right off, but not these guys.    When doing the GT two pads came up, 504 and 103.    504 the pad came clean off and 103 the trace pulled up a bit, both on the positive side.   So I put a bit of solder paste, but it doesn't really hold the cap down or trace down.

What method do people use to keep from pulling up traces?   When I did my gear gear I actually snipped several of them then remainder legs, added a little solider than remove some of solder from the pad.   Granted with the GG the majority or radial, but I had to use this method to not destroy the pads as it was really bad especially on the audio board with has SMD capacitor.

What has been frustrating it the SCD2, I thought it would be okay.   Nope, in the radial capacitors are so far corrode the want to pull up traces.    To add to frustration the kit I got from Console 5 isn't fully complete and not everything matches.    I remove all the capacitors then started installing new ones and that's when I could find the right ones and it was already deep into it.    At this point I seriously doubt my SCD2 will work after all the caps are in place.

i haven't powered on the GT yet as I fell I would like to try and find a better way to fix those to pads.     Can you recommend a better way to fix traces and restore pads.     I think this will come in hard when I get around to trying to repair my broken SGFX .    My plan there is epoxy board back the try to trim off the top layer carefully of the top traces at break point then either apply solder across or solder paste.

Is there a particular type/brand that you folks can recommend that might work better to pad/trace repair
#40
I have a supergrafx that has a broken PCB near the car slot.    Not sure how the circuit board got broken consider that outside looks fine.    I was hope I might be able to glue the board along the crack than maybe with some luck try re-joping the traces.    Any tips on saving this guy?