RIP to BT Garner of MindRec.com... BT passed away early 2023 from health problems. He was one of the top PCE homebrew developers and founder of the OG Turbo List, then PCECP.com. Condolences to family and friends.
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Messages - PapaSmurf

#1
Quote from: ccovell on 01/28/2018, 05:29 PMYeah, Super Mario Bros. sucks in the same way.   :roll:
2nd level is always underground and 4th level is always some dumb, empty, boring castle.  And the boss never changes.  How could people like this??   :roll:
My levity must of touched a nerve.   :lol:  It's only my opinion.

Mario platformers have several qualities, some addictive, to them that make them popular such as finding secrets, beating the clock, timing jumps, speed running, etc.  I wouldn't compare these two vastly different games.

Anyone here think SideArms > R-Type?
#2
Quote from: JoshTurboTrollX-16 on 01/03/2018, 05:04 PMSideArms and SideArms Special are both poo.

That is all.
Spot on!

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Quote from: guest on 01/18/2018, 04:24 PMAll Sidearms HYPERDYNE bashers: suck my left one.
Aww hell no!

Quote from: esteban on 01/18/2018, 04:25 PM^ Agreed!
Aww hell no again.

Am I in Bizzaro Earth or something?  I had no idea so many people actually liked this game.  Back in the day, I convinced a friend to get SideArms for his birthday.  It was a Capcom game, so it had to be good, right?  Nope.  We played it and were so disappointed.  The tunes were nice, but that's it.  The game is repetitive and boring.  I clearly remember saying, many times, "didn't I just kill this thing in the last level."  And "this spinny circle thing again???"

Oh yeah...  The game isn't even two players!  We couldn't even use our new Turbo Taps.

Ugh..  Funny thing is that I still have my friend's SideArms Turbo Chip.  I guess he didn't care for it either or he would have asked for it back 28 or so years ago.   And I haven't played it since!  Maybe I'll give it another chance.  To be continued......
#3
Quote from: CZroe on 01/10/2018, 12:05 AMIt now spins up and starts audio playback reliably, but the recovery when I induce a skip still confuses me. It can resume/recover when I induce a skip but it doesn't recover at the right place. It usually goes to the previous track. The track number on the display counts down and everything, so the player is aware that it has changed tracks. Is this intended behavior?
AFAIK, there's no position recovery on these old CD-ROM drives.  When I was refurbishing my Duo, and was having some problems, I induced skips noticed that it doesn't seek back.  I'm playing with a CD-ROM2 now and when I tap on it to induce a skip, it does not recover its old position either.  I'm going replace that middle gear even if it's working right now, because I know it's only a matter of time before it breaks.

I also noticed that it's absolutely essential that the laser assembly glide smoothly and freely.  Dirt, hair, or minute obstructions can cause playback problems.  If the laser cannot home completely, the CD won't spin.  And if the CD system detects an obstruction when seeking, it won't work at all until you power cycle it.
#4
Quote from: Keith Courage on 12/27/2017, 11:23 PMThe original gameboy pot works as a replacement. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Replacement-Volume-Switch-Repair-Parts-For-Gameboy-Color-GBC-Motherboard/182562243778?hash=item2a818ec4c2:g:8rgAAOSwBahVFAjn

gamegear pot is not compatible with a DUO. Even though it has 5 pins the pin order is different. However a game gear pot will work to replace the volume dial for a Turboexpress/Pc engine GT.
I soldered the Alps pot to my Duo today and it works, but I don't like the curve it has.  Only a few degrees turn and it gets loud, then the rest of the way increases the volume a little.  Also, the legs should be one or two millimeters longer so the wheel will protrude more.

Old and new pots:
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KC, thanks for the suggestion.  I ordered that pot today and I'll try it out when it gets here from China.  The GBC pot is 2mm larger in diameter than the original Duo.  So that might help out if the legs don't quite reach.
#5
Quote from: NichlasEk on 12/25/2017, 04:07 AMThe volume pot is a carbon film pot. That carbone trace dosent always fare well in IPA as it dissolves it. (I have screwd up once ore twice that way) The volume pot for the game geat seems similar. Etim sells the four legged version http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=206&rn=516&action=show_detail. All other i have found are three legs but works as well if you link the grounds. Might not be the right value but might just work?
You're right.  I vaguely remember cleaning my SNES controllers and removing the carbon from the rubber pads.

I tested it out again and it's working much better now.  One of the channels is louder than the other, and gently pressing the knob brings the volume on that channel back down.  I think this is a dual-gang pot; one for each channel.  A three pin single gang pot wouldn't work.

This pot looks like it will fit http://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Potentiometer/RotaryPotentiometers/RKJ1/RK10J12R0A0B.html.  I ordered one, so in a few days I'll report the results.

The Game Gear pot looks like it's through-hole and the dial is a bit thick.  But it might work.  I'll keep it in mind.

Oh yeah, Happy/Merry Christmas everyone!
#6
Quote from: gtsamour on 12/23/2017, 01:23 AMGood job !!!!! Anything is possible but I think its going to be hard to find the exact nob and replace it.
I don't remember about the DUO but on the CDROM2 unit, the sound signal on the headphone jack is indeed high when turned all the way up.... it causes distortion, not like static but more like a loud bass.
Thanks.  I'm really glad it's working this well.

It would be nice if someone could sell me the volume knob from a dead Duo board.  I found a new one online with the same dimensions and pin spacing.  It shouldn't be hard to retrofit it, provided that they are the same specs.  Does anyone know the pin out and the max resistance value for the Duo's volume pot ?

I reinstalled the volume pot and it's definitely messed up.  It sort of works, but the lowest setting is still loud.  I noticed that, if I press down on the knob, the volume decreases a lot.  There's more physical resistance than there should be when you turn the knob.  I'm sure flux migrated into the pot when I was cleaning the board.  I've soaked it in IPA several times and it helped a little.  I'm going to remove it and soak it in IPA overnight, then test the resistance with a multimeter.

Other than that, it's working perfectly.  And luckily I didn't have to adjust any trim pots for the CD!

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#7
I made some progress today.

I woke up early and finished recapping the left side of the board this morning.  The sound cleared up!  Perfect sound through the AV out and both channels on the headphones are now working.

The headphones are loud because I took off the volume knob to clean it.  There is also clipping on the HP jack.  I'm not sure if it's that the super-cheap Radio Shack headphones I'm using can't handle the loudness or because there is volume knob is missing.  Probably the latter.  I'll reattach the volume knob and see if the clipping disappears.  BTW, does anyone know a source for new volume knobs?

I just finished recapping the SMD caps in the CDROM area (previously I had only done the 3.3uf 50v one.)  So the Duo is now 100% recapped.  I'll test out the CD function tomorrow morning.

Here's the patient before I finished recapping today:
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#8
gtasamour,

Thanks for the suggestion.  Did the IPA bath remove the serial number from the board?  Also, how long did you leave in the alcohol bath? 

Today I doused the upper right area with 91% IPA and let it sit about five minutes, soaked it again and gently scrubbed it both front and back.  Then rinsed the area with more IPA.

I'm waiting on some 100uf 16v caps to come in the mail.  I'll test again after those are installed.
#9
Hi everyone.   Here's a quick update.

Last night I looked at he entire PCB for trace damage, but couldn't find any.  I guess I got lucky that the board was caked in flux at the factory and the flux frosting protected the PCB from the leaky caps.  Anyway, the board is pristine now, at least the parts that aren't covered by components.

I checked several vias and continuity is good.  But that could still be a problem.  As for polarity, they are correctly oriented.  It's harder to make that mistake when using SMT/SMD caps.

Also last night, I removed C670, C674, C675, and C884.  I found unflowed solder paste underneath............... #-o  It must have spread underneath the caps when I was cleaning with IPA.  Luckily I didn't use paste and hot air for all of the caps because I didn't like the results.   But I'll be taking all of the caps off and looking for problems underneath.  Starting with C678 and C679, because I might have used solder paste on those.

One way or another, I'm determined to get my Duo fixed.  More to come soon.
#10
I haven't had much time to work on the Duo until the past couple of days.  But I've cleaned it completely and switched out a couple of caps that that weren't on perfectly.  But the was no change; the distortion is still there.  The distortion problem seems unrelated to the missing left headphone jack, because it sounds distorted through both the AV and headphone jack.

In regards to the missing left channel on the headphone jack:
I removed the volume knob to clean it, but I haven't put it back in.  The sound is now at full volume out of the headphone jack.  But still no left channel audio.  I then removed C671 and cleaned up because it looked a little dodgy.  But I didn't replace the capacitor.  When I fired up the Duo, the left channel on the headphone jack started working, but the right was gone!  WTF?  I expected either both channels gone, or the right channel to still be working.  I'll remove three other caps next to the volume knob and replace them soon.

The sound distortion problem affects all audio.  It's not specific to the PSG, ADPCM, or CD audio.  It seems that the louder the sound is, the worse the distortion.  Lower frequencies are seem like they are more prone to cause distortion.  Here is a video I made with some examples of the sound distortion:

wayback.vimeo.com/247244642
#11
I've taken your advice and began cleaning the PCB a few days ago.  Some of the flux I used could be causing shorts here and there.  Plus, when I opened up my Duo for the first time in 25 years, I noticed that it was caked in flux.  Various parts were masked off and it looked like it had been reworked by hand.

Lots of IPA and q-tips later, I'm almost done.  I'll retest the board in a few days to see if the sound problems clear up.  If not, I'll get some new caps and start again.
#12
Thank for the replies and suggestions.

A little more detail:

I removed the old solder with flux & solder wick.  There were only three leaked caps on the entire board and the damage was minimal.  I activated the flux at a low temp to help get rid of the corrosion.  Then I cleaned up the areas with IPA.  The areas I worked on were spotless before I recapped.

When I turn on the Duo with a game that plays music immediately (JJ & Jeff,) the sound plays fine for the first second.  Then it gets quieter and slightly distorted.  I haven't recapped the CDROM area yet; I'd like to figure out what's wrong here first.

Maybe the leads on one or more of the tiny caps are bridged with solder.  I'll check to see if they are shorted and get back.  I don't like the idea of started all over, and putting more stress on the PCB.  But I will if necessary.  Any other ideas or suggestions?
#13
Hello everyone.  I've had a Duo since it came out and have been reading that I need to recap it.  Well, I took it apart and sure enough there were leaky caps.

I ordered then SMD/SMT kit from console5 and started recapping a few days ago.  First, I recapped the headphone jack audio area, tested it and all was well.  Then I recapped the through hole caps and SMD caps above the heatsinks.  Everything was fine.

Then I recapped several more SMD caps (marked by red dots in the pic below) and I lost the left channel on the headphone jack.  The sound from the RCA got a bit quiet and slightly distorted, but both channels are working.

I checked to see if I used the right value caps and they are, but I will check again.

Does anyone have any idea of what went wrong and how to test/diagnose the cause of this problem?

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