2/13/2025: Localization News - Cosmic Fantasy 3-4!

Rather earth-shattering news in the PC Engine / TurboGrafx-16 community: Cosmic Fantasy 3 & 4 has been officially localized to English by Edia 30 years later for the Switch! Hard to believe! I know their script quality is poor given the 1&2 port but still good to see.
nintendo.com/us/store/products/cosmic-fantasy-collection2-switch/
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Messages - channelmaniac

#1
Glad to hear you got some good out of box of stuff! :)

It was truly untested.
#2
Thanks for the props everyone! :)

The new shop isn't going to be the end-all-be-all of shops for me but it is going to be MUCH better than what I had before.

It's going to be over 500sq feet and dedicated. No more sharing it with the tool boxes, freezer, and all the other crap that was in the garage. I'll still have a garage for all that other stuff and for holding all my metal detector stuff. (I'm a dealer for White's Electronics.)

We've been snowed and iced in like crazy here in Dallas so things are about a week behind. We just got internet/cable/phone service yesterday late afternoon and the city has been shut down so the permit for our storage building hasn't been issued yet. As soon as it's issued we'll have storage here and I can move most of the shop over. I'll have a temporary bench set up in the computer room to do some repairs

I picked up a nice electronics workbench off of Craigslist and am looking for another one now. I can't wait to get this shop built! We just have to wait on the financing which could take another 2 weeks to complete.

RJ
#3
Quote from: akaviolence on 01/17/2011, 09:47 AMChecked out your website. Very cool Coleco mods. I do believe the Colecovision is component capable so thats the route I plan to take, but the dual boot and +5v memory is awesome! Does the memory mod eliminate the need for the original power supply? I think the r/f runs on 12v, but I won't be using that either.
I may have to buy a set!
Thanks!

According to the schematic, you'll still need the -5v for the controller ports and +12v for the RF Modulator. What it does do is take that pesky power switch out of the equation. You need good, clean +12v and -5v power for the 4116 DRAM and getting rid of that RAM lets you use the system without the +12v from the power switch. (The -5v is hardwired and always going to the board...)

RJ
#4
Quote from: Duo_R on 01/17/2011, 10:47 PMOK it's all Beemer!  :D
Yup! Items have been sold and are boxed up & ready to ship.
#5
Thanks everyone,

You can find me on eBay under (dvc)judgedredd for personal or Arcadecomponents as business. I'm on many different forums as channelmaniac and on the KLOV forums as channelmanic. (They didn't have enough characters for user names when I registered to get my full name...)

PM returned.

RJ
#6
I used BatchPCB.com for having my Colecovision mod kit PC boards made. They did excellent work and do small quantity orders just fine. I ordered and paid for 30 PC boards and they sent me 50. :)

They recommend EAGLE and it took me a bit to figure it out but wasn't too bad. I was able to change the layouts to upright resistors instead of flat against the board and squeezed my board down to just a hair under 1 square inch.
#7
Buy/Sell/Trade / FS: Untested TG16 items
01/16/2011, 11:37 PM
Hey everyone,

If you haven't heard, I've shut down repairs while moving and having a new workshop built. We've massively outgrown the house and are moving into a 900sq larger house (2350sq ft) and I'm talking to contractors about having a new shop built. In the meantime... I'm culling stuff in hopes of having less to move.

In digging through everything I made a pile of TG related items:

1 TG16 console
1 TG16 console w/rear cover
1 RF modulator
1 controller
1 controller (missing plug, but comes with a replacement plug that you can solder on)
1 Keith Courage card

$30 shipped CONUS (Continental US)

PP accepted.

These are truly untested items. I don't have the time to go through and fully test these.

Thanks,

RJ
#8
Resistance readings will vary depending on the circuitry around the resistor you are trying to measure.

Resistance in series is additive. Resistance in parallel will divide - the amount depends on the resistor values.

Please note that resistance isn't always read through resistors. Capacitors, transistors, diodes, IC chips, etc. all have resistance values when read with a multimeter.

Since you replaced all those caps at once you should look for a backwards cap or 2... (or more!) That would be the most likely culprit at this stage. You can also take a magnifying glass and look at the chip resistors. If they burn out they usually have pock marks on the black resistive material, sometimes even obscuring the numbers written on them.

RJ
#9
Hi Blueraven,

Did you get the chips installed yet? I'm always curious as to what the chips I sell get used in.

Raymond
#10
If you have a list of NEC computer CD-ROM drives that have the correct optical assemblies I can look around wayback://sidewalksale.com for them.

RJ
#11
I stopped selling there when they announced it. I still shop there because it's a good source for some bargains on hard to find parts... but my sales are either through my website, through a few forums I hang out on, or on craigslist.com

Oh, and if you don't like the name gamegavel, how about www.chasethechuckwagon.com ???

RJ
#12
Guys,

Excuse me for asking what may seem like a dumb question - I don't have a TE.

Does the power jack have 2 pins or 3 pins?

If it has 3 pins then the power jack has a built in switch which will disconnect the batteries. If it's a 2 pin then there's a circuit somewhere that switches it.

The reason I ask is that if someone plugs an oversized power plug in and forces it in it will bend the side connection and could bend it enough to not reconnect the batteries when the plug is removed.

RJ
#13
Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some broken consoles to both repair and learn from and also for parts. Plus I'm looking to build a testbed to compare signals to and to modify for testing ICs.

I really don't care how bad of condition the cases are in. The PC boards can be cracked, broken, etc... as long as parts are salvageable.

PM me or send me an email with what you have and what you want for it. Yes, I'm looking for things as cheap as I can get them ;) and in turn anything I learn from the hardware will be posted on the forum here like I did for MVS boards at the neo-geo.com forums.

Thanks,

Raymond
#14
Hey everyone,

I found the site searching Yahoo! for my user ID. ;)

I changed day jobs and finally got caught up to the point I got the system on the bench.

I pinned out the CPU a bit (address, data, power, reset, clock) and the HuCard socket from the pinouts on the Work SRAM IC.

Next I checked the reset line and it wasn't being held low long enough. Replaced the capacitor on the RC network feeding the reset line. Reset was working better but was not the cause of the problem.

There I found a bad trace on address line A2. Patched that but was getting strange signals on the SRAM with the logic probe. Replaced the IC. Signals were better looking but system was still not booting. Cleaned the card slot (folding rough paper over the end of the card, wetting it with pure alcohol, and feeding in/out repeatedly) then resoldered it. There were quite a few solder connections on the connector that were cold - they bubbled when heated - which had to be desoldered and resoldered.

Game system is now working.

Raymond
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