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Messages - mrchuck999

#1
Thanks Tatsujin,
Please note: The SG does fit into the SuperCDROM2 add-on. and can be powered with a special jumper from the SuperCD to the SG. It is curious that NEC did not power the SG via the RAU-30 umbilical cord.
#2
PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / RAU-30 SG
02/23/2014, 11:35 AM
Hi Everyone,
Can anyone tell me, Does the RAU-30 deliver power to run the Supergrafx so it does not need its own power supply? It would make sense since the little PCE gets its power through the cd-rom interface port, but I need to confirm this since I do not own the RAU-30 yet. :-k
#3
Hey guys,  You know the blue cap at the back light connector? Has anyone determined the value of this cap ?   I know its a long shot but I've tried almost everything else so I would like to replace it.
Mrchuck999
#4
Quote from: thesteve on 03/26/2013, 01:54 PMq900 and q901 run the backlight transformer  the transistors seem ok as they can maintain the lamp.  CCFL lamps require much higher start voltage then run voltage  any arcing or contamination will prevent lamp start
Thanks TheSteve. Still a mystery at this point. I've replaced the transformer with a known good one. The transformer and the board have been cleaned. Its important to note .. people have said there was "goo" around the pins of the transformer. I found this to be WAX which was clean and clearly intentional by NEC.  Console runs fine aside from backlight. I even installed a prototype led backlight and it the game was easy to see running.
#5
Quote from: Fidde_se on 03/16/2013, 06:33 PMHave you fixed some BCX56 or would you like me to send you some?
I found the part locally to me and already picked them up. Thanks anyway.
#7
Can anyone verify this is a match for Q502. This is a PNP
I ran a search on the number printed on the part B1182 R H
Result- 2DB1182Q /  2DB1182Q-13 /

./datasheets/2DB1182.pdf
#8
Hi Fidde_se,
Your documentation is great! Thanks for sharing it. We really need an image showing all the traces or a schematic . Man the things we could do with a schematic.

I think there are already people working on this but I plan to develop an LED back light. This will save TE's with failed ballast or failed bulbs. I don't see them often but this week I've got one and a friend has one too. Last month I saw a TE that was dim on one side. I examined the bulb and saw the white phosphor coating was gone on end. It was minor but still its not looking good long term for these lamps.
#9
Hi Fidde_se,
I would be very interested in trying this out.  I PM'ed you.  let me know what you need. If you can send to the USA, let me know and I'll send you my mailing address.

-Mrchuck999
#10
Thanks Keith. I swapped out the screen and it acted the same. The questionable screen was put on a good TE and questionable screen lit up perfect.  I did learn some from you all in this. I though the back light was all about the red plug. I see now the screen carries a signal too for the lamp. I took a screen apart a last month (different unit) and as I recall the red plug was clearly running to the lamp. But the screen only boots up when you have all 3 cables plugged in . (red-plug, screen and I think controller board too.  More later after I do some more measurements.
#11
Quote from: Keith Courage on 03/10/2013, 06:49 PMI recently had a problem where the screen was bad. The unit would show 24V when the screen wasn't hooked up but then when I plugged it in it would drop to around 15V. 
Keith, Where you measuring your -24V. .. At VR500? The leg closest to the outside-edge is -24V I also found -24 in other spots, but the closer a point is to the end of the chain might change the reading.
#12
Hey thanks. Good advice. You are right. I was doing all voltage measures with the screen unplugged. I was comparing a known good unit and problem unit but both had the screen unplugged. I'll go check that and update.
#13
Hi Guys,
1st I want to say, Thanks to everyone. The forum is an invaluable resource. 

Today I have an issue I have not seen before and could benefit from your experience.

Here are the  Details.
Unit started out with no back light. 
I did a Full cap replacement . This did not fix the backlight.
The video, audio etc are all working, its just the backlight not kicking on.

The TE backlight does not light when connected to this TE's main board (fully installed) but if I take the front half and combine it to a known working console, the light works fine.


Using  brand new batteries or a 7.5V power supply, the light would not come on. But.. If I start with the 10V power supply and unplugged it switching to batteries, the light would come on fast and every time .. plus  the batteries could keep the light running. I also noticed if the sound was turned up, I can see a "slight pulsing" in the backlight in beat to the music.      I think the voltage is too low to kick start the florescent lamp.  But adjusting -24V did not help.

I measured -23.8V at the bottom left leg of VR500. I adjusted to -24.1V with no improvement. .

Q: Is there a better place to measure -24V Is this likely to be Q900/901

Q: About Q900, Q901. What voltage do you expect to measure on Q900/901?   
I'm getting 8.5V at the pin 2 of Q900, Q901.  On a known Good TE, I measure only 7.7V.

I have a data sheet I believe to be the correct replacement for Q900/901, but i have not purchased the part yet.

./data_sheet/BF621_623.pdf
PNP High-Voltage Transistors

Can anyone confirm this is a proper replacement for Q900/901 ?

Thanks in advance for your input.   If you have any questions or want me to measure a point , please let me know, I'll jump right on it.
#14
Hi Does anyone know the name of the type of connector used inside TG & PCE  controllers ? This is a 9 pin flat PCB connector used inside of pc-engine and TG16 controllers..   If you know of a website that sells them please let me know. But even the connector's official name would help.    Thanks
IMG
#15
Hi Guys, This might not be the proper place for this question, but its surely the most knowledgeable group for the SUPER-CD-ROM2 Unit.  Q:  What is the expansion port (I/O port) under the console for? Did NEC ever make an add-on to fit into this I/O port? What would it be used for ?  I am guess a game-save-memory expansion, but that's a total guess. Does anyone have a pin out to see what this thing is capable of?
Thanks.
#16
BlueBMW,
Thanks! I was guessing that section would be it. (we'll see).
 It sure looks promising. It also contain a lot of caps which I think I'll have to use the little SMD's.
#17
farankoshan,

Since you have replaced many caps in the super-cd unit, with no sound-fix.
Could you please share which caps were replaced?  I could then slowly replace the ones you did not on mine and we may be able to locate the audio section of the board more quickly.
If all else fails, I will be working my way through every section bit by bit until I locate the audio section.

Thanks to everyone here. This forum is great resource for NEC owners.
#18
Hi Guys,
Has anyone identified the audio section in the Super CD ROM2 Add-on unit?
I would really like to just start with the caps that are in the audio-section as seen with the duo.
#19
bust3dstr8, You need a Torx-10 security bit to open your super cd-console and duo-r/rx.
#20
Hi Guys: I've been reading this thread today because my USA DUO suddenly has very-soft red-book audio while the chip sounds (guns) are loud and clear.  with headphones I can just hear a Music CD play. But a game fire-shots are loud and clear.

This was called problem #2 in an early post. But I never found a clear documented cause-solution. Has any one fixed the "very-quiet" red-book audio (music)? It seems this issue should be caused by a cap dedicated to the CD red-book audio and not the same as over-all low volume.

Thanks for your wisdom. I love this site and all the work from Red-ghost & D-Lite. You know you're awesome!
#21
Official Ninja,
I am very interested in this gear as well. Depending on the price, I would be willing to buy 10 or more of them. (half would be backups).  I'm sorry I cannot provide you with a drive, but I could test a gear for you and send it back.
I have a known working drive minus the gear.
If you need measurements, I have  a micrometer so I can measure the shaft and gear.
Please keep us posted.