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12/06/2023: Localization News - Tengai Makyou/Far East of Eden: Ziria!!!

OMG! ZIRIA! ZIRIA!!! IT ACTUALLY HAPPENED!! 34 YEARS LATER!! The epic/legendary Tengai Makyou/Far East of Eden: Ziria JRPG has finally been localized! Supper the Subtitler struck again! Simply unstoppable, NOTHING can prevent him from TOTAL PCECD localization domination!!!! WHACHA GONNA DO BROTHER?!?!
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Messages - pooyan

#2
Most of them are complete, in jewel case, of some i only have the Hucard. What is a fair asking price?

1943 (Hucard)
Barunba (Hucard)
Darius Plus (Hucard)
Fantasy Zone (Hucard)
Final Blaster (Hucard)
Final Soldier (Hucard)
Galaga '88
Image Fight
Ordyne
Parodius
Power Drift (Hucard)
R-Type
R-Type 2
Salamander
Space Harrier
Space Invaders Fukkatsu No Hi
Super Star Soldier
Twinbee
Bomberman '94 (Hucard)
Side Arms Hyperdyne
Street Fighter II CE
Gunhed
Kyukyoku Tiger
#3
I received my RGB modded PCE just an hour ago, and I am very satisfied. The RGB picture is very clear and of course much better than AV output. The mod looks very nice to me (Scart cable permanent attached to the console), and the console was also very well packed. I can recommend this mod and modder to everyone.

Now I just have to wait for my PCE shooters, which I won on Yahoo Auction Japan, to arrive.  :D
#4
I did use tis image. I replaced ALL but one of the caps you see in this picture (and more) with caps with the same uF value ( I double checked). The one I didn't replace yet is the 100uF 10V.

The caps I used range in voltage from 35V to 63V.
#5
Yesterday I replaced another few caps in order to solve my sound problem with the PCE Duo. Unfortunately it didn't work. On the contrary, now I had no sound at all anymore, not from CD games, not from hucard games, not from the AV and not from the Headphone out. It doesn't matter how high the volume is set, I hear nothing, even no static noise. In the attachment I marked the 18 caps I replaced with a blue sign. I double checked all replaces caps on shortcircuit etc., and they are all soldered in the right way. Most replaced caps are 50V, a few are 35V and 63V.

What the heck, I thought, and I threw the PCB in the diswasher (I mean, it can't get more worse). I gave it a nice and warm (50 degrees Celcius) soap bath for 90 minutes. I have to say it came out very clean and I got hope again. I dried it for 24 hours (the last hour in the kitchen oven which I heated to 50 degrees Celcius (I mean, it can't get more worse) and I assembled the PCE Duo again.

I have to say it was a scary moment turning the power on, but nothing bad happened. The PCE Duo still works OK with regard to the Hucard en CD Games. But there is still NO sound at all.

Now I am lost and I hope someone has another idea or even better, a solution. I would hate it if I have to throw the PCE Duo in the carbage bin (don't want to spend another dime on it).
#6
Thanks for the info, that's all I wanted to know.  O:)
#7
Did you even read any post in this forum?  There is a lot of information to be found about sound problems. And there is a thread on the first page from someone who can fix sound issues for a reasonable price. Look over here https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=4872.0

Good luck with it.
#8
Today I exchanged some capacitors which are all loacted above the two heat sinks of my PCE Duo with new ones (all 50V): 4X10uF, 2x22uF and 2x47uF. I also replaced the remaining two original 10uF caps on the board. After this the sound quality improved a lot, I had game music again in my CD games, although with some soundglitches. However, after an hour or so the glitches became more present and a short time later all in-game music was gone on all CD games (as it was before the caps exchange).  :cry: Only the sound effects are still there. Luckily my Hucard games do play with sound and effects.

I examined the PCB again for more bad capacitors, and I noticed one more bad one, a 22uF located at the top center of the PCB. Unfortunately I'm out of caps, so I have to get me some more. This can take a while because I don't live nearby an electronics shop (Internet is a no for such small order).
I also decided that if I still have no good CD sound after replacing this remainign 22uF cap, I will try the dishwasher procedure.

I first want to have sound OK, before I go on with my RGB mod. Oh, and the mods on my SNES went allright, I now have beautiful 60Hz pictures on my PAL SNES.
#9
check this out: http://www.hudson.co.jp/gamenavi/psp/pce-best/pce_soldier.html

And because the PSP is region free everybody can import it and have a good time while being on the road.
#10
I'll keep you informed. I use the RGB amplifier circuit on this page http://www.gamesx.com/rgbadd/duorgb.php
#11
I plan to do a RGB mod and a sound fix on my Japanese PCE duo, and today I bought all necessary parts, including a nice DIN 8 plug which will be mounted in the PCE case.

However, I still am unsure about a few things which first have to be cleared. When the RGB mod is done I want to connect the PCE Duo via a homemade RGB scart cable to a TV which accepts RGB scart input. I know I need to make a RGB amplifier, and that I have to get RGB directly from the chip. But:
1. bearing in mind that I will connect via scart to a TV, do I have to lead composite sync also through the RGB amplifier, or can I just tap composite video from the original 5 pin AV output and lead it directly to the scart cable (I suppose a TV uses composite video instead of composite sync)?
2. I know I can tap ground, +5V and composite video from the original AV ouput, but are there perhaps other, better places to get it from?
3. According the RGB amplifier schema I use, the left and right sound channel signals need to go to a 10uF capacitor each. Why is that?

I hope someone can help me with the answers, and in the meanwhile I will keep myself busy by adding a 50-60 Hz switch an a lockout switch to my PAL SNES  :mrgreen:
#12
Thanks for the new link  O:)
#13
Thanks for the explanation, you made it very clear to me.  :D
#14
although I can solder electronic parts pretty well, my knowledge of electronic schematics is very limited. However, I did make a few sinc separator circuits for my console to jamma projects, So I must be able to make a RGB amp for my PCE duo RGB mod (With a RGB Scart cable).

I studied the schematic on this page http://www.gamesx.com/grafx/pce_rgb.jpg but I can't figure out how the pins E, C and B  have to be connected. what does these letters mean, and on which wire (coming from left, top and down) do I have to solder which pin? and which type of capacitors do I use? (also for the sound fix I am planning to do). What is the difference between polarized and non-polarized?
#15
Quote from: termis on 12/03/2007, 12:36 AMYeah, I'd really like to see if this one works out myself.  Take a screwdriver to it, jayrawk!  =D> The Duo, at least, does not need a soldering iron IIRC.  I'd think the same for the TG-16 CD-ROM, but I've never opened one of those.

Here's how it's done for the Duo -- I can't imagine it'd be too different for the TG16 CD unit.  Use it as a guide if necessary.
http://www.teamfremont.com/features/TurboDuoRepair.shtml
Unfortunately the link above is dead. Could someone reupload this info please?
#16
Quote from: nat on 08/21/2008, 11:25 AMThe headphone jack uses a seperate amp circuit from that of the A/V port. The bad caps in your particular Duo must be isolated to the post-op amp circuit for the A/V port only. Once the pre-amp caps go and/or the caps in the headphone jack circuit, you'll lose sound over the jack as well. It's only a matter of time. Not to sound grim or anything.
Thanks for the info. OK, so I will do a bit more reading about changing caps (my technical skills are pretty low profile), and when the time is there (no sound any longer from the headphone jack) perform some surgery on my PCE.
#17
Lately I have some serious problems with the sound of my PCE Duo (stutters, crackling sounds, no music, etc). After reading some posts on this forum I learned that this is a very well known problem and has something to do with dried out caps or so. the solution would be to replace the caps (although no 100% guarantee).

However, today I hooked up a PC speaker system (5.1) to the headphone out and the sound quality is amazing, better than ever before. So, why is the sound when it comes from the A/V output so bad, while when I redirect it through the headphone out it's very good?

Anyway, now I don't feel the need anymore to renew electronic parts.  8)