Localization Legend "Supper the Subtitler" has "joined the club" in being targeted for CD-pressings by bootleg master Tobias/PCEWorks! His projects like Private Eyedol, Galaxy Fräulein Yuna 1 & 2, etc. are now being sold on Chinese factory-pressed CDROMs...
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Messages - nick3092

#1
I'm not familiar with the power supplies or the voltage requirements of these systems.  But, this is what I do know.  As long as the voltage is the same, the tip polarity is the same, and the amperage is at least equal (or higher) you should be able to.  Voltage you need to be pretty much dead on with.  But if the power supply cranks out more amps than needed, that's fine.  The system will only draw what it needs.
#2
Soldering isn't too bad.  You have the easiest kind ahead of you, re-flowing an existing joint.  That means your basically going to be heating an existing joint, letting the iron sit for a second or two after it melts to let the solder "flow" around the prong and the hole in the circuit board, maybe add a little extra solder if it doesn't look like there is enough, then taking the iron off.

However, if you've never done it before I would recommend finding some dead electronics, or even just go to radio shack and buy a small project board and a few resistors and just practice.  And Google "soldering tutorial" or something to that effect.  You'll find more info that you would ever need.
#3
Look for some "through hole" components on the Xbox PCB.  Chances are, any jacks on there are through hole.  Meaning the contacts of the device go through the PCB, and are soldered on the other side.  A lot of stuff these days is surface mount, and is a little different than working with the SMD stuff.  Might as well practice on the surface stuff too though.  I'm willing to bet some day you'll have to replace your caps ;)
#4
Quote from: Mobius on 12/24/2008, 01:00 PMI would be open to this, but I have no idea what part I need.  Anyone have a part number?  Or, better yet, a donor port from a scrapped Duo?
Its a 5 pin "DIN" connector.  Specifically 180degrees.  I couldn't find it on mouser, but at digikey it's part CP-2350-ND.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-2350-ND

Also, I thought i saw you say earlier you have no soldering experience.  I would highly suggest working on your soldering skills using some old junk PCB, or buy a little PCB project board at rat shack and and practice soldering and de-soldering before doing this.  It's easy once you get the hang of it, but you don't want your Duo to be the first thing you ever work on.
#5
Yeah, it says:

3.3
50
20

on the top.  Luckily the 3.3 I ordered was a 50.
#6
Quote from: guest on 12/11/2008, 09:24 AMRight below the laser and above a pair of 22uF caps.  :wink:
Wow, do I feel like an idiot.  Between it being under the wires and the plastic holding the wires down, I never physically saw it on the board.  And it just blended into the picture.  Well, it works as is.  But considering I replaced all the other caps, and I have the 3.3 sitting here, I might as well replace it.  Eh, this weekend.
#7
Quote from: Red Ghost on 12/09/2008, 11:01 PMHey thanks :D

It's nice to hear someone finds it useful. When I first posted it a few people gave comments, but I didn't know if many people were actually using it/finding it useful.
I used it to do a total cap replacement on my US Duo as well, and it was a lifesaver.  Just printed it out, and laid it on the workbench next to me.  Only question I have though, unless I'm missing something - the key has a 3.3uf cap listed, but I don't see it marked anywhere on the board.  Where is it?
#8
Yeah.  You're probably right.  I just have this nasty habit of always trying to make things that are working fine, work better.  Even though the change I'm making is probably minimal, if at all really doing any good.  And will probably inevitably go wrong on me.  I guess I'm just a sucker for punishment.
#9
I recently started having audio issues on my TG Duo, and thanks to this forum I was able to learn about the capacitor issue.  So I re-capped the entire thing, and outside of having to work around a few solder pads/traces that got removed when taking off the old caps, I managed to get it working again.

While I was in there poking around, I started pondering replacing the 4558 op amp in the audio circuit.  I don't know much about this op amp, but the general consensus after doing a Google search is that it's not that great, and it's somewhat common for people to replace them.  So, my question is, has any one tried to replace it with something else?  If so, what, and was it worth the trouble?

Thanks,

-Nick