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Messages - PigInTheMud

#1
None of the pots seemed to be particularly off. I'm thinking I may have messed something up (ie maybe stripped something when removing the old capacitors). Is there anyone on these forums I can send the console to to have it repaired>
#2
Quote from: LowRes on 02/11/2018, 04:35 PM
Quote from: PigInTheMud on 02/11/2018, 10:25 AMI'm having the same problem too. I tried doing what Keith Courage above said, and removed one of the ground wires connecting from the laser  to the motherboard  and that didn't change anything. I also tried a very very slight pot adjustment to pots 102 and 104, but nothing changed so I set them back to their original positions

I recently picked up a PC Engine Duo that worked for the most part. Had quiet sound and some issues reading some discs so I decided to do a full cap replacement.
After the full cap replacement the sound is much louder and the visuals are clearer. However now when I turn the system on it says press run to start, but when I press run it just loads and the disc never starts spinning. I took the shell off the see if anything was getting stuck. I have determined the motor is in fact working as the laser resets the position to neutral every time I turn on the system. The laser is also obviously getting power since there is a slight red light noticeable inside of it and 2 times I saw it twitch up and down for a second as if it is trying to focus. This twitching doesn't happen very often though. The laser also twitches everytime I power up or down the console

Is it possible that I burned the laser out when replacing the capacitors? Could one of the capacitors that I put in cause this if they have a bad connection? I don't have a voltmeter so I haven't be able to verify that every connection is 100% but everything seems to be pretty well soldered in and connection.

There's a chance I removed the wrong ground wire though. Can anyone provide an image of the correct wire?
It's possible the caps you replaced in the cd section of the pcb are not soldered in correctly, however I'd say it's also more likely that you just need to adjust the pots now that you have new capacitors installed.  There's a guide on here how to do it by ear and it's very easy to follow.
Thanks! adjusting the pots VR102 and VR104 didn't seem to change anything so I returned them back to position. All the Capacitors seem to be fine too, but I ordered a multimeter to double check everything. Unless anyone has any other ideas I'll let you know what the multimeter says
#3
I'm having the same problem too. I tried doing what Keith Courage above said, and removed one of the ground wires connecting from the laser  to the motherboard  and that didn't change anything. I also tried a very very slight pot adjustment to pots 102 and 104, but nothing changed so I set them back to their original positions

I recently picked up a PC Engine Duo that worked for the most part. Had quiet sound and some issues reading some discs so I decided to do a full cap replacement.
After the full cap replacement the sound is much louder and the visuals are clearer. However now when I turn the system on it says press run to start, but when I press run it just loads and the disc never starts spinning. I took the shell off the see if anything was getting stuck. I have determined the motor is in fact working as the laser resets the position to neutral every time I turn on the system. The laser is also obviously getting power since there is a slight red light noticeable inside of it and 2 times I saw it twitch up and down for a second as if it is trying to focus. This twitching doesn't happen very often though. The laser also twitches everytime I power up or down the console

Is it possible that I burned the laser out when replacing the capacitors? Could one of the capacitors that I put in cause this if they have a bad connection? I don't have a voltmeter so I haven't be able to verify that every connection is 100% but everything seems to be pretty well soldered in and connection.

There's a chance I removed the wrong ground wire though. Can anyone provide an image of the correct wire?
#4
I'm interested in Aldynes and 1941
#5
Oh, I can't believe I didn't see this. Please enter me too!
#6
Overall it is fairly easy to mod a TurboGrafx-16. It's just repetitive with all the wires. The part(s) are a little difficult to acquire offline but it is no big deal.

Here is a list of mods:
Original IC Switch mod http://playoffline.wordpress.com/mod/pceswitch/
MMMonkey's help with the IC Switch mod http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/region.htm
grendelrt's 8pdt switch mod https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=1861.0
PCB Mod http://www.multimods.com/SlotMod1.html

Good locations to buy the 8pdt switch:
http://www.surplussales.com/Switches/SWPushB-3.html
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/51902-F8UEE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuIC3ROaEqRYc8CcTpEZ8i2

Personally I'd recommend the 8pdt switch for American consoles because I didn't have any trouble with getting it to work and it is much cheaper.
 
If you need someone to do it for you it would probably be about $10 for the switch + Shipping the console back and forth + a small fee for the work.
#7
I received my new switch in the mail today and wired it up to my TurboGrafx. Nothing changed! So I decided Eff it I'm just going to wire the pins back to their original positions (This worked before when I was trying to do the IC chip mod). System still displays a white screen when turned on. I am pretty certain that my TG16 unit dead. If anyone has any ideas what might be wrong, it would be appreciated
#8
I'd like to enter into the drawing please!
#9
Quote from: turbo D on 09/04/2010, 11:19 PMhttp://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/continuity.html
Thanks for the link! So I did the continuity test and all of the wires are making a perfect connection. I am most certain that the problem is the switch now.
#10
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 09/04/2010, 11:06 PM
Quote from: PigInTheMud on 09/04/2010, 02:27 PMWell, I ordered 2 more from mouser to test if was actually the wires at fault, or if it was the switch.
Don't you have a meter?
Oh yeah, I forgot about it. I'm afraid I might break it like all the other kids in the physics labs. My college didn't have anymore by the end of last semester. I also don't really know how to use it. What am I checking for... voltage? Amperage?
#11
I would definitely recommend purchasing the caps from mouser.com 8 cents to 30 cents per a capacitor.

Make sure that:
The capacitors are Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded.
The capacitance(most important) and voltage are the same.
The minus side of the capacitor get's soldered onto the minus hole.
Don't let your soldering iron touch anything except the board and the wire parts of the capacitors.
Remove all static from your body by touching something that is metal and grounded before dealing with the board.
Don't wear socks (especially on carpet)
Try to remove oils from your hands.
GET FLUX! It helps so much with soldering things together!  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049774

That's about all that I can think of when soldering video game consoles
#12
Well, I ordered 2 more from mouser to test if was actually the wires at fault, or if it was the switch.
The other problem I had with the 8pdt switches from surplussales was that the button would take a few presses before it actually clicked into position.

edit: American games work every now and then, and Japanese games work the majority of them time.
#13
Well this sucks, because that means every button I've purchased from http://www.surplussales.com/Switches/SWPushB-3.html have been messed up
#14
I was playing a Japanese game on my 8pdt switch modded TurboGrafx. I decided I felt like playing an American game so I pushed the switch. I noticed the button kinda stuck a little so I pushed it a couple times until it felt smooth again. Now American games won't play and the Japanese games only work sometimes. Do I need to buy a new switch entirely? I checked all the wires and they are perfectly fine.

I took apart my TurboGrafx, moved the switch around and then it played American games, but when I pushed the button it stopped working until I moved it around again.
For some reason I have to move it around every time I push the button.
#15
Quote from: guest on 09/03/2010, 09:30 AM
Quote from: PigInTheMud on 09/02/2010, 08:32 PMAm I going to have to buy that overpriced $45 one from ebay?
Why in hell would you pay $45 for a decades old used AC adapter when you can get one from RadioShack for $30 (actually only $20.89 as shown in rag's post, with a free plug and free shipping).
That would be very stupid of me to buy the super grafx adapter. I just like having original items.
I thought that the ac adaptor didn't include the $7 tip at first. But i went back today and decided to buy it. Works great. Only problem I have is that it feels loose in the outlet. Still willing to buy an original supergrafx adapter but for no more than $20
#16
So, I ended up going to Fry's Electronics and they had nothing, but then I went to Radio shack and the guy tested out various plugs and found that the Super Grafx can use the Enercell Adaptaplug Q which is equal to: Outer diameter: 6.3mm. Inner diameter: 3.0mm.
The problem is that Radio shack is trying to charge me $30 for that. It's completely ridiculous. I can't seem to find a well priced properly sized ac adaptor for the Super Grafx in the U.S.

Am I going to have to buy that overpriced $45 one from ebay?
#17
Well I got my console in the mail. Definitely different from the picture.

The problem is that I have absolutely no AC Adapters that fit into the console. It is about a mm bigger than the Genesis Model 1 power supply and smaller than the Super Nintendo power supply.
#18
Repairing a torn ribbon cable is some pretty tricky stuff. I usually just pronounce the system as dead when that happens, but a CD-ROM2 is much too valuable to just scrap.

I found this guide http://www.gearhack.com/Forums/DisplayComments.php?file=Electronics/Ribbon_Cable_Repair

I haven't tried it yet and it sounds like a hassle to reconnect each wire due to how small they are, but it definitely should work.

Tell us how it works out for you
#19
Quote from: Tighe on 09/01/2010, 11:33 AM
Quote from: TR0N on 08/31/2010, 03:31 AMAlso a region switch can be put in if you want to play any u.s hucard title.
Do you have a link on how to add a region switch?
Original IC Switch mod http://playoffline.wordpress.com/mod/pceswitch/
MMMonkey's help with the IC Switch mod http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/region.htm
grendelrt's 8pdt switch mod https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=1861.0
PCB Mod http://www.multimods.com/SlotMod1.html

Good location to buy the 8pdt switch http://www.surplussales.com/Switches/SWPushB-3.html

There was one other website but I can't remember what it was.

You can also do a switchless mod to use your Japanese console to play American games, and buy a converter to play the Japanese games with. A switchless mod is where you just cut the pins and solder wires directly from the board to the pins resulting in a different pinout order.

Personally I'd recommend the 8pdt switch for American consoles because I didn't have any trouble with getting it to work and it is much cheaper.
#20
How much for the Atari Lynx?
#21
I actually only have about 4 games for the turbo grafx so put me in for Legendary Axe please!
#22
IMG

 I just remembered that I bought this for my Sega Master System II a while ago. I don't think that a .05A difference would change all that much, would it?
#23
http://cgi.ebay.com/800mA-AC-DC-Power-Adapter-Supply-3V-5V-6V-9V-12V-15V-/370290609381?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56370a4ce5#ht_2484wt_911

Would this be a good one?
It says that:
I can switch the polarity
Input: AC 100V-240V
Output: DC 3V-5V-6V-9V-12V-15V 800mA
#24
Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB SuperGrafx AC Adaptor
08/30/2010, 07:11 PM
I recently purchased a fairly cheap SuperGrafx; however, it does not come with an AC adaptor. Does anyone have any SuperGrafx AC adaptors for sale around here. I don't particularly want to pay $50 for one on ebay. I guess I would be satisfied if anyone knew of a good equivalent power supply that's cheaper than $35.
#25
Quote from: Frank_fjs on 08/28/2010, 09:24 AMA mod to enable VGA output?
I was thinking the same thing, but I'm use to them being blue
The port is also a male port. Aren't all vga ports female?
#26
Could anyone tell me what this is?
 http://i36.tinypic.com/ezjsdt.png

Also, I was wondering if region modded Super Grafx consoles can play all games properly or would it have problems playing certain titles?
#27
I am willing to accept trades
#28
Selling one of my region modded turbografx-16
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220658526197&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_842wt_1137

Best offer if it is too much please! I am willing to negotiate.
#29
Actually, someone on the 8bit collective forums had found a fix for this. A lot of gameboys have problems with the LCD where lines will go down the screen due to bad connections.

http://8bc.org/forums/viewtopic.php?id=5679&p=1
#30
The main issue is that all the players cannot move right.
Problems happen on all 5 ports
Sometimes when I plug in player 1 the start button gets pressed repeatedly

I'm going to order controller port replacements to see if that affects one of the turbotaps
#31
F the IC mod. I just did the 8pdt switch mod. It worked first try and was a heck of a lot easier to do. My advice to everyone is to just completely forget that IC mod.
#32
No, all my controllers have been tested in the system port individually. They all work correctly
#33
All of my turbo taps seem to be finicky, and they have been for as long as I have had them. Does anyone know of a fix so that I won't have to yell at my friends to stop moving?

Problems include:
Start button being pressed repeatedly
Can't move right
Automatically pressing I or II

These problems only happen sometimes and never together.
#34
The wires are coded with really tiny letters that I wrote on them. But could you use a photo to show me where the Capacitor is? I am unable to find any that supply 5v and 10 microfarads
#35
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 07/29/2010, 05:22 PMYou got you power and ground from the HuCard socket?

Hm...I'm not sure if that is the cause of you problem, but I didn't do that with mine.
I never thought of connecting the ground and 5volt anywhere else. Where did you connect yours?
#36
I cannot see anything through the static.
I attached the 5v wire to the last leg and the ground wire to the leg that was not cut between the other wires.
IMG

None of the wires are touching by the way. If you would like me to take more photos, I can
#37
I tried to create several region selector chips for my American Turbografx console. The system turns on but the problem is that only static shows up on both settings of the switch. Neither American nor Japanese games will show up. There is I turn the system on.

Here is a video that I posted of what is wrong.
Things that I know are not the problem:
  • ICs (NTE4551B) are not burned out thanks to 16-pin sockets
  • Wire gauge and length; I've tried various types of wire such as PATA wire and Tinned copper wire from Fry's
  • The console itself works everytime I reconnect the legs.
I used the following:
- Rosin-Core Solder with silver bearing
- Solid Copper Wiring or PATA wires
- Rosin Soldering Flux
- NTE4551B IC
- 16pin IC socket
- Sub-Miniature SPDT slide switch

I've checked the wires over and over again and everything appears to be connected correctly.