2/13/2025: Localization News - Cosmic Fantasy 3-4!

Rather earth-shattering news in the PC Engine / TurboGrafx-16 community: Cosmic Fantasy 3 & 4 has been officially localized to English by Edia 30 years later for the Switch! Hard to believe! I know their script quality is poor given the 1&2 port but still good to see.
nintendo.com/us/store/products/cosmic-fantasy-collection2-switch/
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Messages - goombakid

#1
Small bump. Calling TheSteve for input. I haven't tried removing the region mod yet. Still waiting for my tendinitis flare up to subside (work doesn't help at all).

Also, is there any way for the mods to condense the stickies in this sub forum? Maybe just one sticky that has all those links in it?
#2
There was a trace repair done prior to me getting the console for the mods. There was a red wire coming off the Hu6280 to one of the pins there. I'll double check that and also try it without the region mod. Any more help welcomed.

Also, thanks for chiming in, Keith Courage. Appreciate it!
#3
Hi all!

So, I did a bunch of mods for a friend on a PCE Duo-R. It included region mod (via "Obey" chip) with a dual color LED for region/power indication, Component out (using tg16pcemods.com component board), and composite, S-video, and RGB video out through a Nintendo Multi-out connector (scavenged from a non-properly working Super Famicom).

Everything worked just fine when I gave the console back to my friend back in May, 2015. He has used it every so often since then up until PRGE in October.

He had a booth that he was gonna show off the console, but never got around to getting it actually set up. He just brought it back home and that was that.

The following month, he powered it on to play, and all that happened was a white screen. The LEDs do come on. This white screen happens with or without a HuCard in the slot, not even the Super CD splash screen.

I just opened it up tonight, and nothing seems out of place. I've checked the region mod (my first suspicion) but all the wires seem to be on there properly.

The +5V needed to power the mod boards (region, component, and the RGB amp) are all powered via one of the 7805s, pretty much piggy backed. When testing after finalizing the install, I ran the console straight for 4 hrs, alternating using US and Japanese Hucards and my Turbo Everdrive v1.1, even a couple of discs, with no hiccups whatsoever.

It doesn't look like anything's shorting. I had to cut a bit off the CD drive frame to get the Mulit-out to fit properly, but I didn't think that affected the drive's performance.

Any help is really appreciated on this. I'll have to look further into it, but any and all insight is welcomed.
#4
Quote from: MNKyDeth on 05/21/2015, 11:26 AMI have the V2 board without the Sync Stripper board. Do I need to hook up ground and +5v to both sides of the board or just one? If I need to hook up the +5v and ground on component side of the board do I send them out to the component part with the wires and to where? Or do I just need to hook it up to the motherboard of the Duo like the RGB side?
I just installed one of these in a Duo-R. I wondered the same thing, so I did wire up (daisy chained) both 5v points on the board to the 5V pin on the AV connector. I looked at the traces and it looked like both points were linked up to different components on the board itself.

Quote from: MNKyDeth on 05/21/2015, 11:26 AMLast question on the V2.... Since I do not have the Sync Stripper part of the board do I need to do anything special to the component out cable or anything?
You shouldn't, as long as you're using Composite Sync to the Component mod board.

Quote from: MNKyDeth on 05/21/2015, 11:26 AMThe RGB amplifier board, can I hook those into a YPrPb input on a TV? Or does it need to be specifically to a scart type cable then TV or converter?
You may wanna read up on RGB HERE and HERE.

The short of it is: No, you won't be able to hook it directly to Component. Yes, you'll need either a RGB capable monitor or a scaler to convert the RGB signals to use on other monitors.
#5
I'm working on a PCE Duo-R for a friend, currently working on the region mod using the "Obey" chip. He's wanting to use a tri-color LED so not only will it show disc access, but with the region mod installed, he'd want one color for PCE and the other for Turbo.

I know it's been done, but I couldn't find any documentation regarding it. Can anyone help me out, please?
#6
PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: RPGs
01/25/2014, 02:34 PM
Quote from: RoyVegas on 01/24/2014, 03:16 PMWatch it a little closer, she deflects another chair being thrown at her in the middle of the table throwing and the catching of the chair. 
Bad-assery right there. Good thing she still had her purse.

Also, is it me or does it look like a Bloods vs. Crips kind of fight there.
#7
Quote from: majors on 01/25/2014, 11:42 AMWhen I got my Shuttle it came with no power. When I found a wall wart with the correct rating, all I got was a green/blue screen (like if you had a bad card connection) with some wavy lines. It turned out to be a bad wall wart, the only thing I could not test was the amps so I assume that was the issue. I found another correct rating PSU and it's been fine ever since. Do you have a 2nd power supply to test?
I tried 2 different PSUs: One with selectable voltages and one 9V 1A. Both react the same way. The 9V 1A one works fine when tested on my TG16.

Quote from: Fidde_se on 01/25/2014, 08:22 AMUsually the most likely is usually what it is, bad connection between hucard and connector,
could also be between connector and board, but that's more rare.
I took a toothbrush to clean off some residue from the connector. I used my magnifying lens to check the pins and they all looked uniform. When a HuCard is inserted, it's pretty tight in there.

Quote from: Fidde_se on 01/25/2014, 08:22 AMif you turn it on and off rapidly does it show something new on screen every time?

bad connections between the hucard and connector usually shows a white picture and the following times turn on fast showing the screen in different colors, green is common, but yours is garbled?
like when hucards are beyond repair, but as they work on other systems it's not them...
When I power on after I first insert a HuCard, I get either a light purple-ish screen, white screen, or the vertical lines on one game. On another, I just get a black screen.

Quote from: Fidde_se on 01/25/2014, 08:22 AMsometimes random things or colors can be seen when one of the main chips are damaged, can you see if it looks like someone tried to region modify it? sometimes when people try to lift legs they don't do a god job, lifting the wrong or leaving small strains of nearly invisible solder to other legs that can short it out either for good or just temporarily depending on what they did.
As far as I see, there is nothing that shows that a region mod has been attempted. The ribbon cable connecting the HuCard slot to the mainboard doesn't seem to be damaged. I inspected the ICs on the mainboard. Some of the pins look oxidized, but upon closer inspection, it looks like something may have spilled inside it.

I already arranged to have a replacement sent. I'd like to tackle this myself, but I am low on the resources to fully go into repair for this.

I appreciate everyone's help in this matter.
#8
I just got an RF PCE. I tried testing it prior to modding it for AV. I have my TG-16 RF box still on my TV. Channel was set to channel 95, turned it on with a game in it, nothing but a blank screen. Switched the TV to channel 96, no go. The channel selector switch on the console was broken, so I had to stay with channel 95.

Tried cleaning the connectors with a cloth and a plastic card. It gave me something to show me some kind of life sign: ¼" vertical black and white bars with some kind of animation going on with the lines.

I did a quick and dirty AV (well, more just a V) mod using the expansion port pins. Just the same effect, just with a cleaner picture.

I opened up the console. The pins showed no wear or loose solder joints that I could see with my magnifying lens. The plastic protector behind the HuCard slot was cracked and taped up. There was one pin that I thought might be causing problems, as it was slightly bent almost touching an adjacent pin. Straightening that didn't help it.

I've also tried cleaning the board a little with alcohol. After letting it dry, powering it on still didn't work.

What could've caused the console to not work like this? I've tired 2 different PCE games and both power on in the console to a blank scree or the vertical lines. I know the games work since I tested them with my Region modded TG-16. Is there any fix for this? As far as I see, the caps are all fine.
#9
PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: RPGs
01/24/2014, 03:04 PM
Quote from: geise on 01/23/2014, 03:46 PMTIME TO THROW DOWN, BITCHES!!!
IMG
DAMN! That chick threw the table AND caught a folding chair.
#10
I IC region modded my PCE Duo a while back (I made it with 4551's). During preliminary tests, the console worked fine. Finished a full game of SFII' with 2 different characters in one sitting.

However, once in a while, it'll freeze up a game. I've had it freeze up on Bonk's Revenge on the second stage. I also have an Everdrive that I use. Again, playing Jackie Chan, the game froze up on a level.

Would the region mod be doing this? I'm powering the IC mod from the 7805. If it is the region mod, then it SHOULD be easy to remove, right?
#11
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 12/22/2012, 12:23 AMI was reading through this thread and I'm surprised I haven't posted this doozy of an N64 RGB mod yet:

IMG
THAT mod, by far, hurts my feelings. Not even my first mod where I had to solder on to small point on an IC came out that bad.
#12
I just saw that Fry's has the FX-888 for $69.99. If I had the scratch, I'd pick it up when I saw it.

I've been using my Radio Shack soldering iron forever. I'm thinking it's time to retire it and go with everyone's suggestion.
#13
Quote from: PunkCryborg on 09/16/2012, 09:40 AMIn my opinion side mounted AV jacks or any switches anywhere other then the back or where the other wiring is is extremely tacky.
I agree, but sometimes in some situations, there is no way to have that happen. Case in point, the TG16 and that EXP cover. It just worked better (at least, for my mod) going in from the side.

Otherwise, Really great thread.
#14
I'm talking about a standard Turbofrafx 16 console, not a Turbo Express. This was just a quick and easy way to boost the audio when tapping it from the expansion port. It was something I just played around with since I couldn't find a solution anywhere for amping the audio from the EXP.
#15
Like I said, I just went with simple and easy with stuff I already have. Dino at hackaweek.com uses it as an audio output preamp. Figure I could just use it in this case just for a quick and easy audio boost.

If your opamp gives more bass, put that schematic up. I may, in the future, do that for sound boost.

But for now, I'm fine with what I made.
#16
Yeah, even after I switched back to using .1µF caps, I was getting crackles. Thanks for the tip about the 10K Ω resistor. Mine sounds great now. I'm not cringing now when the title screen for Keith Courage is on with all the distortion.
#17
I used the schematic that is on the page I linked. I'm sure an opamp would be better, but this worked out for me since I had the parts readily available. Quick and simple.

EDIT: I switched from using a .1µF cap for C1 in that schematic to using a 1µF cap. It gave too much of a bass response that it made everything sound static-y when played. In Street Fighter II', when the character gets hit or falls to the ground, you get the bump, but it's kinda scratchy. I'm gonna switch back to the .1µF cap again to see if there's a major difference.
#18
So, I got bored wait for a response (on various forums) for boosting audio from the TG-16's EXP. I looked online for a simple amp, when this came up (multiple times) in my search.

Hack A Week - Single NPN preamp

I had parts laying around, so when I had time, I built this thing.

After several minutes of prep and rewiring I got this. (Pardon outside link and shaky cam)

Removed YouTube:
IMG

(After uploading the video, I didn't realize how soft the audio on the video was, so you may need to turn up the speakers to hear the difference. No scary things popping out, I promise.)

I used two .1µF caps for the video's test. I'm gonna try a 1µF for C1 to see if I get a better bass response.

You'll have to build two of the circuits for both left and right audio channels.

Also, you do not need R1 from the above circuit. It's not needed in this case.

So, for those who ever seeked it, here you go.
#19
Since I figured out my S-Video problem, I noticed now that the audio tapped from the expansion port gives me soft sound (have to turn my TV's sound up higher than usual to get decent sound). I've added a 10uF cap inline to the connections, but still have soft sound issues. Through RF (before I took it out couple nights ago), sound was fine at nominal volume levels.

I've had this problem when I first did the A/V mod a year ago, just now came around to clean up the install and add S-Video. Any tips?
#20
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Raffle: Ys book 1+2
09/11/2011, 02:23 AM
Never played it. I'm looking for a new game to occupy my time. Today's games really don't have much replay value on them like older games.
#21
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Raffle: Klax
09/11/2011, 02:21 AM
I'm in. Looking for more puzzle games for collection.
#23
I just finished region modding my TG16 (letting SFII' demo roll ATM), and via This Link, I utilized the voltage out of that regulator makes it stable. So far, so good.

I'm hoping to do the same for my PC Engine Duo. I'd like to be able to tap anything over 5V. I know most people have had success with just the 5V, but I'm hoping to save myself from future headaches  ](*,). My multimeter is on the fritz, so I'm hoping someone can point it out off the top of their head where I can tap 12V on a PC Engine Duo.

Thanks, All!
#24
Really nice PCB. You wouldn't happen to be selling the PCB by itself? I already have the ICs, just needed to get around to building the circuit.

BTW, thanks for the info about using 12V. That was the only thing holding me back from region modding my TG16.
#25
Figure I'd start up a collection of classic HuCards. Doesn't matter the genre, what games you think are "must have" games for a collection?
#26
I'm prepping for the future, so I'm needing 3 random games to replace the 3 seashells that we'll be using in the bathroom...give me a retro tech look to the bathroom without reverting to toilet paper...problem, Spartan?
#27
I got my TG16 on March 29, 1991. I still had a label I made the day I bought it in that extension bay cover! I actually remember throwing a fit because I couldn't get it the first time around. When they added Bonk's Adventure in as a pack-in game, I was able to come up with part of the money so my mom would shell out the rest.

I still can remember playing Bonk for hours on end, trying to find every single secret in the game.

I've been trying for the longest to get the CD attachment to it, but finally gave up and just got a PCE Duo just recently.
#28
caidek: sent you a PM
#29
Thanks for chiming in, Red Ghost. And Duo_R, apologies for the slight tangent your thread is going through.

I'm gonna play around with the IC mod for my TG16. I may try applying the +5V and Ground to the IC individually. Possible voltage drop might be causing the ICs to fail? Just thinking why it fails.

Otherwise, the whole region mod basically switches the pin positions, correct? There's something I want to try if this IC mod fails (which I'm sure, at this point, will).

PC Engine Duo and IC mod, though, is OK?
#30
Quote from: BlueBMW on 11/23/2010, 09:54 AMMaybe someone can verify this but I found that the IC mod chip doesn't work on US TG16s.  It works on everything else great.  I think someone else mentioned region mod troubles with ICs on TG16s in another thread.
I'm done searching for a Turbo CD, so I'm not worried about it. I'm just doing the region mod on the TG16 for the heck of it.

Quote from: seefuu1 on 11/23/2010, 02:13 PMWhat i've found better for lifting the pin than a knife ,is a tool that your dentist uses ,one of them hook things.It get's under and around the pins better than anything else i've seen or used,and with just a tiny bit of pressure near the solder side of the leg, the leg of the HU IC just lifts up and off the motherboard.
Although I'll be using an Xacto knife, I might just try this method on some old computer components. I may just modify a safety pin to fashion a hook to try this method. Thanks.
#31
Nice! Thanks for the vids. I just FINALLY got my ICs from Futurlec, gonna attempt to mod both my TG 16 and PCE Duo after Thanksgiving.

Kinda wishing I got the Duo R instead of the Duo now... ](*,)
#32
I kinda figured I might have to go that route with a Transcoder. Was looking at getting the JROK one, but configure it so I can just use one of those transcoders for multiple game consoles.
#33
Quote from: BlueBMW on 10/22/2010, 07:22 PMI know I read somewhere that someone had removed it to make room for something and that it worked just fine... not sure where I read that though.
I think it was Duo-R that had a mod up with the RF module gone, put something in there like a switch or led.

Off on a tangent here, but am I able to use a VGA connector in my TG16 to connect to the VGA input on my HDTV (NTSC)? I'm trying to wrap my head around this concept that's all new to me. I THOUGHT I had it all down, but upon further research, I was kinda off.
#34
Just checking if the console will not function without the RF Module soldered on the board. I figure the RGB cable, LED array, and a popcorn maker would fit in that area nicely. Thanks for the input!
#35
So, being as adventurous as I am now with modding, I'm planning to RGB mod my TG16, possibly the PCE Duo if I'm successful with the TG16. Seeing that I already A/V modded my TG16 already, I figure that I won't be using the RF anymore.

Is there any harm if I removed the module from the board? I'm thinking that it's OK to have both the A/V and RGB installed. I'll be using the RGB input on my LCD HDTV, figure that's what it's there for.  :D

If this is successful, I may just RGB mod all of my older consoles that can have it done. :P
#36
So, lovin' the Duo, but worried about the power supply. It's input (like most electronics direct from Japan) is rated 100VAC 50/60Hz, output flows 10VDC 1000mA. It's an NEC branded adapter that came with the console when I got it from eBay.

I've read here that a Sega Genesis 2's adapter, when modified, can be used with the Duo (not the R or RX). I have a Genesis 2, and the adapter is rated 10VDC .85A. My plan was to open up both adapters, desolder the adapter cables and put the Duo's cable in the Genesis 2 adapter (I have a spare one somewhere).

Question is would I have to worry about the lower amperage rating on the Genesis 2 adapter?...well, before I even begin this endeavor, would I have to worry about using a 100VAC rated adapter in a 120VAC socket? On average, I usually play for about 1.5 hours, but I've been known to go around 3+ hours if it's an involved game (RPGs and whatnot). :-"

Thanks all!
#37
K, stupid question time. For the IC mod, what type of switch do I need? SPST or SPDT?
#38
Quote from: BlueBMW on 10/09/2010, 10:47 PMMy thread here shows where I put an IC mod on my US duo.  Not sure if the PC engine duo has the whole RF shield plate like the US one though.  I mounted my switch in the back rear corner near the a/v out and power plug.

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=8729.0
Just so I can get my bearings on the board. BlueBMW, can you verify? And thanks for the pic.

Duo-R, I'm gonna meander around the forums and see what comes up. I'm seriously contemplating the 8pdt switch at least for my TG16. Although, if you do have some pics or links, I'd appreciate the share.
#39
No probs.

So next question: Anyone have pictures of their installs? Either switch or IC modded? I just want to get an idea of placement for either. If anyone has pics or links to pics, please share.
#40
Quote from: beigemore on 10/08/2010, 08:23 PMDidn't want to start a new topic, but can someone point me to an image or walkthrough showing the hucard pins actually connected to an 8pdt switch?  I've done smaller projects with spdt's but nothing with 8 poles required for this.  I'm having a hard time imagining in my mind how the switch is flipping the 8 wires around.
Here you go. I imagine it works as if you had 8 DPDT switches swaping all at once.
#41
Quote from: Charlie on 10/06/2010, 12:54 PMThe mod using the '4066's is just an electronic 8PDT switch.  They're in pairs because each chip is only 4P.  So, you need two to make connection for the "normal" data bus, and two more to make connection to the "reversed" data bus.  The pairs are selected by the slide switch.

You also must realize, of course, that the '4066 and the '4551 not only have different pin-outs, but that they work differently also.  The '4066 is a set of off/on switches...the input either IS or IS NOT connected to the output.  The '4551 is a set of either/or switches...the input is EITHER connected to the first output, OR the second output.

Thus, you need 4 of the '4066, but only two of the '4551.

Charlie
I kinda figured it was something like that, like each 4066 is acts as 2 DPDT switches.

I'm thinking that I'd want to do the switch mod, but I have a fear of the switch malfunctioning or failing after x amount of clicks. I'm sure the IC mod has failure too. I may try both mods; maybe the switch one in my TG16 and the IC in my Duo.
#42
These are the IC's I'm looking at. Just double checking if these are the ones to get. Thanks.
#43
I've got couple of dead mobos and consoles I can practice on.  :wink:

I also found this link that shows another IC region mod, but using a different kind of IC. Has anyone seen and/or made this region mod? I'm just curious since I mostly see the 2 IC region mod around.
#44
Hello all! I'm new to the forums, but a long time PC Engine/Turbografx fan. Found this site while looking for mods for my TG16.

I've just purchased a PC Engine Duo from eBay since prices for the Turbo CD attachment or Turbo Duos are redonkulously high there. Before I bid on it, I wanted to make sure I could play the current TG16 HuCard games on it somehow...which inadvertently lead me to this community.

I'm taking the IC mod route because it just look a lot more fun to do (I do have tech experience). I've already got parts for it in cue to order as soon as I get the PC Engine Duo, however, I still have a question for region modding.

I've read here that pin 29 does not need to be lifted from the board, at least on Duo R's and RX's, prior to grounding. Does that hold true for the standard Duo (black console)? Although I'm confident in my skills, if the route is easier, I'll do it.

Another question, TG16 related. I haven't been able to locate a pic for it, but is there a pic of an area on the TG16 board where I can get audio and video other than from the Expansion port pads? I've already done the A/V mod for my TG16, but I was planning on redoing the wiring and adding a cap to the video input.

Thanks all! This looks like a great community for PC Engine/Turbografx gamers!