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Messages - Sensato Black Lion

#1
Quote from: Brickstin on 05/01/2013, 07:10 AMI have a Turbo Grafx 16 that was in storage for like three years.. bad thing was. my Grandmother moved it to the outside storage shed that forced the system to be subjected to extreme conditions of heat and cold damp atmospheres.. . The heat was soo intense that wires that where sitting on the top of the console literally melted onto the top of the black bezel as well melting the bezel enough to the point it left marks and groves into it.

I'm tempted to have this unit sent in for repairs. I don't think I can repair it my self; could try cleaning the HuCard slot a few times and resolder condition it. But if the Processor or the work ram chips fried from the heat then I guess im SOL and will have to send it in to have it fixed. I went to that Arcade Components website and emailed them a service request ticket.
I think that the processor can withstand more heat than what it was exposed to. I heated 3-4 of those with a heatgun to remove them (that is like 300-400 celsius degrees) and I never killed any so far.  My guess is that corrosion started to appear from the heat/cold/damp conditions and that some trace(s) could have been heaten away.

Quote from: willys82 on 02/28/2011, 01:01 AMHi Chop, I'm writing from Argentina (so please excuse me for my bad english). I'm writing here because a couple of months ago I bought a Turbografx 16 form Ebay that worked great, I made the AV mod and worked great too. However, I stopped using it for 1 or 2 months and now when I play a game I get a clear picture with good sound but with weird colors (I'll leave some pictures of Keith Courage here). I've been reading your thread and in one part you say: "If it was the crystal there would be sound and weird colors even black and white picture but game will load" and this appears to be my case. Should I proceed replacing the crystal? I've got a broken PC Engine (the white one), can I use the crystal of my broken Pc Engine? Or should I buy a new one?
I forgot to tell you that I've already cleaned the card slot many times and try with the RF cable and the same weird colors appear. Please I need some help!
I have a TG16 here with the exact same problem. I will definitely try to fix it this summer. I will let you know how things go.
#2
Quote from: PCEngineHell on 04/29/2013, 07:49 PMIs anyone one else here running into that issue that Black Lion is having? Also, Black Lion, I've read both good and bad things about your monitor. That one hails from back in 07 when they were kind of skimping on the SD inputs processing, so I am not too surprised that you are having a issue on it, even if it does seem like a random fluke for you. You're monitor maintains like a 6.5 out of 10 rating on Testfreaks. That is really not a good rating at all for a LCD. Pretty much the only really good reviews for it are from people who only use it for modern equipment.

If anyone else is having the same or similar issue with this mod as Black Lion, what tv are you using? LCD, CRT, make, model, year, etc?

From what I've seen, most complaints I've read about this monitor is that it has bad sound. I'd also assume that most of the people who bought this monitor were to use it with modern stuff.

This MIGHT be the ONLY monitor with which this newer svideo mod causes trouble, but untill I'm 100% sure of this, I won't take any chances modding systems for others without adding a composite/svideo switch.

@NightWolve: oups sorry, looks like I didn't read that last paragraph. Hm, well thought about that composite/component switch!
#3
Quote from: NightWolve on 04/29/2013, 04:15 PMHmm, that's good to know, so some monitors might not like the Chroma filtered out of a Composite signal via a simple capacitor. You might wanna think about my idea here though of a switch instead of permanently breaking Composite support via resistor removal. A little more work, but better than permanently breaking it.

I hope this was a PC Engine with a normal sized resistor and not a surface mount one, or otherwise, I guess you probably broke it for good and didn't care at the time.
Yeah, there is no way I'm breaking composite compatibility. The mod was done on a US Duo and I aready installed a composite/svideo switch. I'm curious to know what that switch does on your SNES...

Quote from: PCEngineHell on 04/29/2013, 05:57 PMWhat was the name of the monitor/model number for the one having issues? That has to be a pretty rare event because even my sucky Dynex crt TV worked with the s-vid mod fine. I've yet to run into issues with any of my Tvs via the mod (I own 5 tvs, plus cap card also which it worked on fine), so makes me wonder.
The monitor is an LG M228WA. I've had it for about 5 years and, from what I recall, I never had any problem with any other svideo output/mod (and I've tried many different svideo mods on it). Other mods still look good on it to this day.

Not that it would make any difference but, I get the same "bleeding" results with the mod on that monitor whether it's done on a TG16 or an american Duo.
#4
If that's the case then Jelloslug, just PM me and I'll send you the Keith Courage comic for free.
#5
Quote from: guest on 04/29/2013, 10:47 AMWould you happen to have an extra Keith Courage comic?
If he doesn't, I do. I have one sitting on my shelves waiting to get some love. It's in pretty good shape too. I do not know what it would cost to ship this to you from Canada though. Else I would have sent it to you for free.
#6
Well well, after countless hours or probing with an oscilloscope and replacing ICs, I was about to give up and put this system aside for good. That is when, out of nowhere, my eye spotted some corrosion UNDER the Hucard slot. I don't know why I lifted the slot to look under it but, there it was, a LITTLE corrosion spot on a via. This is what it looked like after I cleaned it (can't really see well...):

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It appeared rather innocent but just in case, I cleaned it and did a continuity test to see if everything was ok. Turns out that little corrosion had cut the trace. I couldn't believe it! Could that be it? I redid the trace like this:

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Tried the system one last time, and it worked! At last! I must have spent a dozen hours trying to fix this.

It was definitely related to the VRAM chips but for some reason, when comparing the signals on the chips with a working Duo, I couldn't see any major difference.

That via was nowhere near a leaky cap, I'm really wondering just how it got eaten by corrosion like that.

Thanks to everyone who helped!
#7
Quote from: Sensato Black Lion on 03/06/2013, 09:20 AMI did a quick test earlier this morning and I must admit that I'm impressed with the "new mod".

I have some major color bleeding for now though but I blame the old .001 uf cap I used. The bleeding I have does not appear in screencaps seen in previous posts from other members.
DSC01256CustomCustom.jpg

I found out a few weeks ago that the "bleeding" I was talking about only occurs on one of my monitor. Turns out that that monitor doesn't like the composite video through the cap for chroma. The bleeding was all gone when I removed the resistor mentionned in Drakon's variant of the mod. I thought this might interest some of you...
#8
Quote from: ApolloBoy on 03/12/2013, 01:11 PMIf you're getting color bleeding through S-video, try checking your ground connections. I've found that leaving the ground unconnected on either the chroma or luma lines can lead to some horrible color bleeding.
I'll check that thanks. I went and got some new .001 uf caps from a local shop. I tested the circuit with a cap from the batch he gave me and now I get no colors at all! Nice.

I asked for 1 nanofarads ceramic caps but he apparently gave me 1 picofarads caps. I also paid 50 cents each which seems a bit expensive to me. I'm always glad to buy local but sometimes it's a bit hard considering the difference in price. In this case, it still doesn't make the mod very expensive so I guess I shouldn't really complain.
#9
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 03/11/2013, 10:15 PMI would refrain from using the torch.
Any bad experience with a torch? I must admit that I'd be afraid to destroy the quad flat package ICs (is this what they are called) like the Hu chips, with the torch. Same goes for the hot air gun. I don't know how much heat they can take before they die. I wish I had a desoldering station but I don't. I'll look for tips to desolder those...

It was thinking about desoldering SOP ICs that are close to the HuCard pins first and see if I can fins the culprit(s) there. These should be easy to remove.
#10
I found this diagram while searching for what goes where in the PCE: http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4925.0

I do not know if it is 100% accurate but it will certainly be a great reference when trying to fix this and other PCE problems I have.

I have also noticed that the 5V line is shorted in my system. I think I will desolder one IC at a time to see which one is causing trouble.
#11
I've never played the original Lords of Shadow (I'd like to someday) and barely played any 3D Castlevania game as a matter of fact. Mirror of Fate isn't appealing to me at all. From what I have seen, it looked like a 2D God of War to me too.

I have to agree that the PCE Dracula X was an incredible game but SotN is possibly my favorite video game of all times. It just perfectly fits my tastes in every of it's aspects.
#12
There is a lot of interesting info in that post NightWolve. I will definitely read this entire post and look more deeply into it.

Quote from: NightWolve on 03/06/2013, 01:11 PMhttp://quebecgamers.com/sensato/Workshop/PCE_svid.htm

Great job on this BTW; a Javascript mouseover to switch between the S-Video shot and back was a good idea. My Turbo Duo Composite was pretty shitty I always thought, I think your shots capture it, even though it's with a capture card.
Thanks! The mouse over idea wasn't mine though. I borrowed it from a guy who had PCE Screenshots vs Wii Screenshots. I believe it was Black Tiger on his Superpcenginegrafx site. There were some Virtual Console screenshots vs PCE screenshots done with the rollover script. Can't seem to find that page anymore.
#13
Sensato Black Lion: 13,122,730

Pretty straight forward run. There are some pretty good scores here! Did my score in a Compile shmup buzz. 1CC a few other of their shmups during that buzz.

Video of my run can be found here:
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#14
I did a quick test earlier this morning and I must admit that I'm impressed with the "new mod".

I have some major color bleeding for now though but I blame the old .001 uf cap I used. The bleeding I have does not appear in screencaps seen in previous posts from other members.

There is VERY little chances that I'll ever spend 3-4 hours building another CXA1645 svideo circuit for the PCE...

Props to everyone who contributed to this mod!
#15
Quote from: Bernie on 03/05/2013, 12:41 PMGet with thesteve here in the forums.  He usually has pretty good luck in helping folks trace problems like this.
Thanks for the tip!

I was actually secretly hoping that thesteve would contribute to this thread if he felt he could be of any help. I wasn't really feeling like contacting him directly for help. I will wait a bit, think things over a bit more and pm him in a while.
#16
That's what I thought too. The only thing is, I've already replaced them and it didn't solve a thing. :P

These screenshots were taken after I replaced the memory chips. There are exactly the same as they were with the original memory chips.
#17
Quote from: SNKNostalgia on 03/05/2013, 07:46 PMMy Duo originally had the even better CXA 2075 S-video mod, which looked just a bit better than CXA 1645 from what I could tell. Now I have it with the newer S-video mod in the same Duo... which I added while I sent it off for a cap replacement after my attempt that went wrong.

I can tell you for sure, it is definitely better. First of all, even the pics you posted show it very well; the colors are more accurate and has a brighter picture more like you see in the original composite video, but much more vibrant and sharp. So you get the right colors and the brighter picture as intended. The new S-Video mod along with some caps added also gets rid of any jail bars and the subtle RF-like interference.

I say remove any CXA based S-Video mods and replace it with the new one.
Good to have some opinions on that.

Something bugs me a bit though. Aren't the right colors are supposed to be the ones you get with RGB? S-video should be closer to RGB than composite, no? I mean composite colors might be the ones we are used to, but are they really the right colors?

This might already have been talked about earlier in the topic but since the chroma from the new svideo mod actually comes from a filtered composite video, I have a bit of a hard time understanding how they can be better than with the CXA mod.

New Svid colors: RGB to composite to chroma
CXA svid colors: RGB to chroma

I might not be as simple as that...

I have to agree that the CXA mod makes things a bit darker than they should be and that the jailbars can be annoying.

I will definitely do a side by side comparison very soon.

Quote from: guest on 03/05/2013, 08:03 PMThat's a great comparison, Sensato.  I don't think my composite looks that bad, but when I record it to DVD it ends up blurrier than what I see on the TV.  S-video looks sooo much sharper, though.  I'm really tempted to try this out.
Yeah, the screen caps from that page are a bit off compared to what they look like on your TV. It's unfortunately like that for ll my screenshots comparison pages.
#18
I'm pretty sure that some ICs were damaged. Everything was working fine before the incident happened. The regions switches' pins (connected to the Hucard port) made contact with the 12V line (the fuse). The fuse did not even blow up.

I've tried replacing the 6260, 6270 and 6280 ICs but I wasn't successful in doing so. Note that I might have damaged the ICs from heat while desoldering them. Thankfully, the PCB doesn't look like it was damaged in the process. I used a butane gas torch to desolder the chips.

I'll try to post pics later.

I've put the system aside for over a year, and I think it's time I fix it.
#19
Back on the original topic, has anyone compared this newer s-video mod with the CXA1645 one?

I made a screenshot comparison page based on the CXA mod some time ago if anyone is interested: http://quebecgamers.com/sensato/Workshop/PCE_svid.htm

I took my screenshots with some ATI All-In-Wonder capture card from an old PC I don't have anymore.

The difference between svideo and composite seems bigger to me with these screenshots (based on the CXA1645 svideo mod) than with the newer mod but I will have to try the newer mod to see how it really does.

I almost pray that the output from the new mod is of similar quality than with the CXA mod because the new mod is simply MUCH easier to perform.
#20
I've got a Duo with a similar problem here.

Some screens look perfectly fine, some are incredibly glitched. The glitch display pattern is different from one screen to another but pretty much the same pattern for a said screen each time I encounter it.

I do not know if the problem is only related the the Hucards since the system is unable to read discs at this time.

I have changed every caps, I've swapped IC 904, 905 and 906 with known working ones... no results, I get the same glitches.

Any idea what I should check next ? I'm thinking about reflowing the 6270's pins since it seems to communicate directly with IC 904, 905 and 906.


Sample pictures:

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#21
Yep, that's the fuse and it definitely looks like it's burnt.

This could be all you need to replace to get your system working again. One of the metallic ends should have the fuses' ratings. It should read something like 125V 1.25A (that's what I have in a US TG16), meaning 125 Volts, 1.25 amps.

From what I know, the voltage rating doesn't really matter here but the current rating (amps) is important. Find a replacement fuse with the same amps and you should be good to go.
#22
I've never really fiddled with a Core Grafx II but have you checked the fuse (if there is one, which I believe there is)?
#23
I've got a dead Duo here and from what I understand, during the installation of a region switch (8PDT style),  some data pins on the switch accidentally touched the fuse and the system doesn't work anymore. I need to find which IC could be damaged so I can repair this unit.

I believe that the 6260, 6270 and 6280 chips all are directly linked the the Hucard port but what other ICs are linked to the port?

I've got a few TG16 I can use for parts but if replacing most IC on the Duo board is required, I might as well forget about this and declare that system dead...
Can I resuscitate that system or is it a lost cause?
#24
Hi, I have a Duo with audio problems. I replaced 39 caps and the problem is still there. I swapped the laser and the audio is alright now. So it seems I a faulty laser on this Duo.

Before replacing it, I'm wondering if there isn't some adjustments which can be made, like the strength , tracking and focus of the beam? I'm going to do a few tests with that Duo today and post back the results.

edit: Ok, I just went through the Laser Power Issues and Pot adjusment topics... didn't realise they existed before posting.
#25
Just discovered this game a month ago. Really awesome game. Cleared the game in one life. Woohoo! Gotta find where to die in order to restart at the beginning of Stage 8 in order to score more.

4,703,000

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#26
I'm actually in a smaller city than Quebec, (located in the province of Quebec) and used to do my components shopping in 2 local electronics shops but ended up realizing that I was paying much more if I bought there than on-line. A mod could cost me twice as much, and they often didn't have everything I was looking for in stock.

I still go there occasionally but they don't have gold plated RCA jacks nor gold plated chassis mount s-video connector. Radio-Shack has some standard gold plated phono jacks but they're asking 3$ a piece, which is around 3 times more than what I'm willing to pay for those.)
#27
Thanks for the link. Looked great, too bad do they offer internationnal shipping. :(
#28
I don't know if I'm asking this at the right place but I'm looking for panel mount connectors exactly like these:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p266/Rockguard/Sega/CloseupforGTZ4.jpg

Can anyone help me find a reliable source for those? Thanks!
#29
I just finished performing this mod for myself. Congrats to everyone who worked on this project!

Before trying the mod on a Duo (was kind of afraid I might damage the Duo if I did something wrong), I tried it on a US TG16. Built the circuit and tried it out. The result was a sharper picture but with a lot of bleeding and color distortion. Double checked everything on the CXA board and everything seemed fine. I then decided to build a second CXA encoder pbc. Obtained the same bleeding and distortion. Double checked everything once again and everything seemed fine. Thought the problem might be on the TG16 itself so after a dozen hours of work, I connected the encoder to my Duo and powered it up. IT WORKED JUST FINE! Hurray!!!

S-video vs composite on the PCE doesn't make a difference as huge as I expected (not as much a the Genesis s-video vs compsite anyway) but it still is really great to have a sharper, less washed out picture on screen. I've been looking for a PCE s-video mod like this for years!

Anyone else had problem with this mod on a Turbografx system or is there really some problem with the system I have? I'll eventually be able to try the encoder on another Turbografx to see if the problem comes from my system or not.

Quote from: guest on 05/03/2007, 07:32 PMWith S-Video on your Duo do see any faint vertical lines kinda like this?

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The above image is an exaggeration, but I have a very faint version of those lines with my system.
I actually have these faint lines which I noticed for the first time on a white screen. Unless a white screen shows up, I can barely see them.

I have also noticed that in the Kaze Kiri option menu, the blue background is kind of wavy (not the text but only the blue screen). There is some slight pixel movement in the blue color when compared to the composite output. Maybe this is normal thought... I'll perform more tests soon.
#30
Thanks for the contributions so far. About the size of the Hucards, nice to know it's max capacity but any idea what the standard (or minimum) is? Could it be something like 256Kb?

I found a list of prices for some NEC systems, not sure they're accurate or actual launch prices. Any one can confirm this? It would be better if I was able to convert these 1990s japanese prices to USD but...

PCE: 24,800 Yen
PCE GT: 44,800 Yen
CD-ROM2 System: 57,800 Yen
Core Grafx: 24,800 Yen
CGXII: 19,800 Yen
SGX: 39,800 Yen
Shuttle PCE: 18,800 Yen
Super CD-ROM: 47,800 Yen
PCE DUO: 59,800 Yen
DUO-R: 39,800 Yen
PCE LT: 99,800 Yen

still looking for:
Duo-RX, PCFX as well as most American hardware original retail prices.
#31
A couple of days ago, somebody from ccjvq.com suggested me to use a can of compressed air on the DUO's PCB. At first, I didn't see how that would help me at all and didn't bother trying it. But then, a tech or repairmen (Omnedon from cgcc.ca) showed up and explained:

QuoteIt's likely a heat issue caused by the Duo's location of the sound amp board. Apparently, this can be alleviated with the installation of a small fan, assuming no heat damage has already been done to the sound board.

He also said that he could probably fix this if I sent him my Duo. While I was medatating on the decision to take, I thought "hey, why not try cooling that Duo down with compressed air." After all, I had nothing to loose and so gave it a try it.

Not knowing were the said amp was located, or even what it looked like, I focused on the various chips and wires of the boards. Reassembled everything and powered the Duo up. Guess what? Problem solved, for now at least. I figure it'll pop up again sometime, when it heats up maybe. But for now, everything seem alright, hours from the compressed air session. Although it didn't seem dusty at all, I'm thinking: is it possible that dust was the cause to all this? Perhaps causing the system to heat up more or faster than it should.

Anyways, now that everything is as it was before, I feel much better knowing that the system wasn't permanently damaged. I'll have to wait and see it this happens again.
#32
Well, I'm looking for some info regarding NEC and a couple of their gaming systems. Hope some of you can help me.

First off, what does NEC stand for? I figured it would be something like Nihon Electronic Company but...

2- Does the term "PC" in PC Engine stand for Personnal Computer? If not what's it?

3-What are the exact dimensions (size) of these: PCE, ShuttleGrafx, PCE LT, Turbografx-16, Turbo Express, PCE GT, PCE Duo, Duo R , Duo RX, SuperGrafx and PCFX?

4-Any idea what was the last Hucard to ever come out for the PCE and in what year?

5- Launch price for every NEC systems excluding only their early computers.

6-How much data can a Hucard hold?

I might have a few more questions coming up soon. Thanks in advance!
#33
Here, I'm going to try and explain this the best I can. My Turbo Duo used to work perfectly. Now, everything works fine exept for one little thing: music simply won't come out for CD games or standard music CDs. The CD games works flawlessly. The visuals, the sound fx are all right, no problemns here. But the music... it just won't comes out.

In fact, music DOES come out but at an extremely low volume. If I turn the TV volume to the max and pay attention, I can actually hear the music but at an incredibly low intensity. The sound fx are then to loud for me to even think about playing a game that way.  It's really sad.

No such music problem occur with Turbo Chips games or chip-to-cd ports such as Bonk's 1&2 and Bomberman (contained on Gate of Thunder pack-in).

Well that's pretty much it. If anyone could give me any info on how to fix this (if it even can be fixed), I'd be extremely thankfull. Tell me that I don't need another Duo, please. Also, I don't really like the idea of sending my system for someone to fix it. Thanks in advance!