12/06/2023: Localization News - Tengai Makyou/Far East of Eden: Ziria!!!

OMG! ZIRIA! ZIRIA!!! IT ACTUALLY HAPPENED!! 34 YEARS LATER!! The epic/legendary Tengai Makyou/Far East of Eden: Ziria JRPG has finally been localized! Supper the Subtitler struck again! Simply unstoppable, NOTHING can prevent him from TOTAL PCECD localization domination!!!! WHACHA GONNA DO BROTHER?!?!
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Messages - Drumjay

#1
Thanks again. I will try that. Luckily I have found the system card and it works beautifully! So may as well just use it this way if it's not possible to repair the chip?
#2
Thanks for the fast replies! I have checked all the 22uf caps 5 volt on every one. Typically my system card has vanished not in the box! Everything else is fine the laser and all the motors are fine checked in a working console. I also have another one that has the system start up but the laser will not move up and down, again I know it all works tested in a working one so there is something in between stopping the laser. Busy trying to change all the caps! But nothing yet. I have 4 in total but only one working at the moment. Quite frustrating!
#3
I have a Duo at the moment that is causing problems. This fault existed before capacitors were changed. The fault is still there after all the capacitors have been changed. Will turn on no problems. Will load and play the Hu Card games fine. But removing the card and turning on all I get is a white screen. The interface is just not loading for the CD ROM part. I presume this is chip controlled? Does it mean the chip is dead? Thanks for your help.
#4
Great work on the LT. Just repairing one now. I've noticed you haven't marked the remaining capacitors up, the electrolytic versions, these were also bad on mine, worse in fact to the others. They are:

2 x 470uf 16v
2 x 220uf 6.3v
1 x 220uf 10v
1 x 100uf 35v
#5
The function of a console has to come first. Changing capacitors isn't a mod, it's repair. I would even say that RGB port and scart connection are also repair, your making the unit work better in it's original condition.

I would only say it's a mod when you alter it's capability, multi region, LCD, power requirements.

Personally I like to keep the ones I have fully functional and as unaltered as possible, for collecting purposes. Ones that are played with altered as much as you can to improve the quality of game play and functionality! 
#6
I'll try and shed some light to your questions.

The switch really isn't intrusive to your hand when playing games, as it only sticks out 5mm in PC Engine mode, and it's nearly flush in TG16 mode.

There is only one alternative for the switch, which is vertical, but it would mean removing the battery door tab and mount, it is possible, you then could remove the multi player port and fit it in there. I just found in this position it would be a lot more work, and you'd loose the port.

Pin 29 runs a check sum operation on game load, if you remove the pin in normal mode the TG16 games won't load, they don't work by default if you've removed the pin. This could be a different factor if your using a chip mod? All I know is that the instant it was grounded it worked perfectly :)
#7
Thought I would post my Switched Mod for the TG16.
One thing I did find unusual is that everywhere I have seen this type of Mod it doesn't recommend grounding pin 29.
This goes for all TG 16 consoles. But on this particular model it needed grounding otherwise the TG16 games would not load!
So if you've got this problem before you de-solder all your wires and re-check 3 times! Just ground to be sure.
Anyway! Pictures.

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#8
Awesome guys thanks! Fixed it this morning, the adapter plate was bent flat! It was stuck on adapter mode. So I changed it out for a new one. You can actually use a Watara Supervision adapter socket, they are identical!

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Thanks!  :P
#9
Thanks Charlie, that's shed some light on it it for me  :oops:

I'll have another go as I've 4 still sitting here in good condition but no tube, same not to get them going again.
#10
Capacitors all changed. Works on adapter ok. I have checked everything, in line fuse ok, wiring ok, terminals ok
switch ok. Power to switch tests ok with multimeter. Switch mount ok, adapter mount ok. Fresh new batteries as well. What have I missed?
Is there an in line diode for the battery power?
Your expert knowledge would be appreciated!
#11
Nothing on eBay, can't find anything on that place for a reasonable price!
#12
Yes I have removed them before, unlike the Sega Game Gear which are soldered into position they are are plate mounted and stuck by double sided tape to the mirror. Once you have cut the tape they just pop out. i have thought you could maybe re energise them using the existing parts, but still need to find a place. I Mod the Game Gear with Led's this is quite simple, no spots if you use a defused tube. The Pc Engine seems to use a plus/ negative tube, and a different way of using the power usage to the back light. I have tried various ways without success. I'm hoping someone here with expert knowledge of the Engine could find a way. :)
#13
You could always build the amp into the scart socket if your in the UK, they fit in quite nicely. Or you could have the amp at the other end so it wouldn't be near the console and intrusive. Great work!
#14
Has anyone seen the official PC Engine converter? The one that was originally for the white core PC Engine?
#15
Must be as rare as the console. Someone think of a LED Mod quick!
#17
Where are you from? UK, USA? Would you post items worldwide?
#19
I would have called him Charlie Brown...
#20
I've just repaired a SCD Rom, and yes it was the capacitors. Every single one looked fine, no leaks, no corrosion at all, but after replacing 6 of them under the jumper board, right next to the AV port it was perfect! I did encounter one problem where the customer was using a power bridge connection for the SCD Rom and Core Grafx, The power hungry SCD Rom really needed that 12 Volts of power! It stopped the sound working fully when using this connection.

He then used separate connections for both units and found no problems after that. really should have taken pictures so I could have identified the caps for you all. But they are the same as usual 2 33uf and 3 100uf caps. Don't quote me on that, but I'm almost sure.
#21
Firstly I would like to congratulate you all on this superb forum!

My first post! So please excuse any errors. I have read all the search topics but can't find my answer as yet.

So, here goes!

It's silly really because i do repair PC Engines for a bit of extra cash, but as yet I haven't found where I can actually source the PC Engine GT/ Turbo Express actual backlight tube. Capacitors no problem, all the mods under the sun! But the tiny tube that gives light is a mystery. I now have 4 units
all fully working, but with blown tubes. I can find a LED mod fix to elevate the problem. So I thought I would ask the experts!

And yes I have spent hours searching on Google for anyone who manufactures these, no luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!