Sega Lord X reviews the Street Fighter II Champion Edition PC Engine port.
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Messages - phipscube

#1
The screen is white when the brightness is at the normal level, its only green when I turn it right down. I have heared that using rechargeables is bad for the GT especially letting them run completely out whilst power is still on. I did that by accident when I left it running all night. So I feared the worst. Just strange it worked ok in the morning after I checked then by the evening it was dead.
#2
OK great :) I have found a small tool at work that might enable me to reach into the cart port and gently flex the pins. If that doesn't work I'll replace the caps to see if by chance it's one of them. And if that doesn't work I'll try to get a pce to transplant the chips over.
#3
Hi, sorry for the delay. I've been away. I've not tried a PSU to be honest. But its always been fine with batts. I tried looking into the cart port with a torch, all pins look fine (If they are bent then its evenly bent, but they protrude nicely). Is there a way to flex them back a little to be sure?

All soldering is fine too, I checked with a multimeter. It was a problem even before I took out the Obey chip. I think I will try and order a new cap kit to see if that helps but I have a bad feeling it's one of the Main chips because even without a cart in the screen behaves differently with its colour, normally the screen would just be white and go brighter and darker with no game in, not from a shade of white to a shade of green with no brightness increase. Its exactly the same with a cart in too. Now and then I get a high pitched tone coming out the speaker too when I turn it on.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if the 62xx chips in a regular white PC Engine can be transplanted to a Turbo Express/PC Engine GT? if it does end up being that, I could maybe buy a working cosmetically beat up PC Engine on Ebay for real cheap and swap out the chips...
#4
I'm not having much luck just lately with the GT. MY own has just bit the dust. I've had it 5 years now. Recapped at the time I bought it and soon after I region modded it with the first revision of the Obey chip from BlueBMW. Its been awesome. apart from one thing, it has 3 dead/stuck pixels. I got a homebrew program off someone on here years ago too that would strobe many flashing block colours in an attempt to unstick at least some of the pixels.

Well, a few months ago I finally plumped for a Turbo Everdrive v2.4. Its been great, finally able to play all sorts of super expensive games (like Coryoon) without selling a lung. I now decided to try out the pixel fixing program. I started it up and left it running. My idea was to leave it a few hours then turn it off. Problem is I forgot about it and went to bed.

Next morning I woke up and saw my GT powered on but dead.... I suddenly realised I'd left it on all night. Not such a big deal.... if you don't use Eneloop batteries. I have heared that when they start to die they can cause problems with the obey chip and possibly other things inside the GT as they drop off very quickly. Normally when I'm playing and the screen starts to go white I instantly turn off. Alas.

I found some fresh Eneloops, swapped them out and checked.... it still worked... phew!

But then when I got home form work I turned the GT on to play something and it initially loaded the Turbo Everdrive menu... with slightly corrupt GFX. I turned it off, then on again.... white screen.... tried multiple times.. same problem. tried real games.. same.

I thought maybe I had damaged the obey chip so decided to take out the mod and solder back in all the cart pins etc. still the same problem.

I notice that when I turn the brightness right down the screen has a Green/Turquiose shade to it. Right up its white. The actual brightness itself doesn't seem to increase or decrease, it just changes colour. Its like this with or without a game inserted.

I've checked continuity on the flex cable from the cart board to the main board and all seems to buzz out ok. The pins inside the card connector look ok (although I can't be 100% sure. I hear that TEDs can cause problems in there by flexing the pins too much, if they are flexed too much then they are all evenly flexed) I'm wondering if something is more seriously wrong with it like one of the 62xx chips..

Any advice to narrow this down would be very appreciated :)
#5
OK I actually managed to clean the pot with some alcohol and now all works fine. My friend will be really happy. Thanks again for the help Keith Courage :)
#6
I have now cleaned up and resoldered the components you circled....... and the brightness comes straight away now! Really awesome, i'm so pleased :) Thanks for the help Keith!

There is one small niggle still left with this machine and I want to try and fix it too. When moving the brightness pot its not increasing and decreasing consistently, it kinda still does what I described above with it jittering (suddenly bright, then darker then brighter even when turning slowly up). I'm thinking the pot might need contact cleaner (I don't have any)? Or it could be worn out? Maybe another component? I tried to re-solder the connections on the pot but that hasn't helped. If its left alone the screen stays fine once you get it right so I could just say that's good enough, but i'm a bit of a perfectionist.

The great thing now is it has instant brightness though! :)
#7
Thanks Keith, that's great! I will try it and see if it helps :)
#8
Thanks for the suggestion Keith. When I looked again more closely around that area I could see some potential gunk on the legs of D500 and also D502. I took the two 4.7uF caps off again and I could smell fish as I could when I first removed the old caps, so I think that's a sign I didn't clean up so well first time. I also removed D500 and 502, cleaned all the board with alcohol and a tooth brush. Put all the components back and assembled. Still the same fault :/ But I have now noticed the brightness doesn't raise and lower smoothly via the brightness pot, it jitters a bit and is momentarily a little bright then suddenly dark. So wonder if the pot is bad? I don't have any contact cleaner but think maybe I should try getting some and cleaning it. Not sure if that would cause the brightness to gradually increase though.

I also noticed the coil that is covered in white sealant has part of the top broken off. The history of this unit is that the friend who has it now bought it of another guy we know "Possibly needing a recap". But when I opened it, half of the caps had already been replaced and the coil was how you see it.... but apart from that small top piece it seems intact. I bought the cap kit from Console5 and they are usually ok. I replaced all the caps again including the ones changed.

Some photos of the area I cleaned up

You can see the chipped top of the coil here

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First turn on... screen pot at full brightness

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After 1 min

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After 2 mins.. seems normal (screen almost totally white on full)

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#9
Hi all, I'm hoping somebody can help me.

I have a PC Engine GT that i'm trying to fix (for free) for my friend. It works fine apart from the screen is very dim. I tried to recap the unit and that helped a little in that once it's been on for a few minutes the screen gradually gets to the correct brightness. If the unit is turned off then on when it's warm the screen is still bright. Leaving it off for 10 minutes then on again. It's back to dark and needing to warm up again.

I have verified the screen is OK with my own GT unit so it's something on the board.

Any ideas?
#10
Your combining the RGB amp with this!? How completely awesome! :D Great idea, thanks for your great work guys. I'll be up for 2 of these when the are done then!  :wink:
#11
Well, I can confidently say my GT works flawlessly with the thin power wires. The only problem I have is when my Eneloop batts start to run down if I don't turn off the system before the screen goes completely white then it seems to crash and the gfx corrupt. But thats a known issue with the mod installed. So once I notice the screen starting to brighten, I switch off...... (Off topic, but MAN those eneloops last nearly TWICE as long as regular Alkalines!!!!)
#12
Fantastic work thesteve :) I'm still in two minds about trying this on my own GT, but that big screen does look great, and kind of how you'd expect it should have been if today's tech was available back in 1990. Will you be producing a thin SMD board like you did for the region mod (and switchless board)? I will be at least interested in one of those as I am still looking at sourcing a drop in replacement LCD screen (in size, so I don't have to cut) that I can combine with your board.
#13
This looks great thesteve :)

I've been looking around for a replacement that is more the original size, 2.6". Its hard to find a 4.3 ratio display at that size (cheaply anyway), but 2.5" can be found quite easily. The only thing that concerns me with the 3.5" mod is the cutting of the original casing that's required, but the lure of the size is leaning me towards giving it a go. I might try and find a dead GT and try the mod on a spare case first.
#14
Thanks for the advice :)

I do tend to prefer the Japanese styles more so I may well agree. I'll put both on an emulator and see what I prefer. I think realistically i'll just end up going for the Japanese version on the cost alone. Even then its a tad high. I'll be buying many more cheaper games before that anyway, hopefully at some point the "craze" for this game will die down.... or someone will find an "Undiscovered" warehouse full of NOS Magical Chase games and bring the price right down :)
#15
Ok, for a guy or gal wanting to primarily collect JP Hu-Card games, but also play all exclusives to US, play the text heavy games in English, and have Enhanced US versions over JP, it seems the list is something like this: -

Cadash (minor text maybe missed in JP version)
Darkwing Duck (US Only)
Falcon (US Only)
Gunboat (US Only)
Magical Chase ("Improvements" over JP version, although cost might outweigh it)
Military Madness (Nectaris in JP, Not playable due to text)
Neutopia (Not playable due to text)
Neutopia II (Not playable due to text)
Order of the Griffon (US Only)
R-Type (on one card and minor improvements to flickering, although slight resolution drop)
Tailspin (US Only)

Does this look about right?
#16
Yep I did that as well, sorry forgot to post the pic: -

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:)
#17
Here's my efforts on my PCE GT: -

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It all went together nicely, but I haven't got a US game to test properly yet. The Regular Japanese games work fine. I'll keep an eye on its function though, i'm worried i've used too thin a wire for power and GND after reading csgx1's findings. I'll post here if I do have problems to let everyone know.
#18
Thanks for the great info guys :)

Necromancer, Great links! That's what I was trying to find :) Just using wrong keywords. I can see that there are 4 or so Turbochip exclusives as well!

I've got a PC Engine GT that i've just put a switchless mod into (Cheers BlueBMW) and at the moment I don't have any US games. I've already decided to buy the US version of R-Type and wanted to see a few more US games I could go for over their Japanese counterparts. I will primarily be collecting Japanese PC Engine games and only getting the US versions when they have something better to offer. It seems that mostly the US versions have things taken out, but its definitely better to get US versions when reading text is needed as henrycsc said :)

At some point soon i'd like a PC Engine Duo so I will be interested in CD games too.

Cheers elabit! Its my favourite game :) Well its more nostalgia I think.... way back when (around 1992), I had an original PC Engine (white model) with Tiger Heli, Fantasy Zone and Heavy Unit. I loved those games but especially Tiger Heli. The PC Engine was RGB modded and I had it hooked up to an old Amstrad CPC Colour monitor (with a scart to 6 pin din adapter I made). The picture was AWESOME! And many a happy hour I had playing with those games. Suffice to say the first set of games I bought again were those three, I also just got Gunhed and when I bought The GT the other month it came with Don Doko Don. So at the moment my collection is pretty lame, but i'm enjoying them! :D
#19
I've tried searching on here for some kind of guide as to which Games are worth buying in US format over the Japanese counterpart. I couldn't seem to find anything so opened this thread.

I understand that R-Type is probably better on Turbochip as its the full game on one card, and also I read somewhere that its got slight enhancements to make flickering a little less obvious.

But what other games are better to buy in US format?

Sorry for my lack of knowledge, I'm new to the PC Engine (well in a "I haven't owned one for nearly 20 years" kinda new)   :D
#20
Quote from: BlueBMW on 09/17/2011, 05:52 PM
Quote from: phipscube on 09/17/2011, 07:43 AMIf any of you guys are interested I posted some photos of my efforts replacing my caps over on Amibay where i'm a regular, I also plugged this awesome site a bit ;) : -

http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?p=212375#post212375
Nice writeup :D  That one guy had never heard of a portable PC engine!?  [-( [-X  :lol:

Hopefully that mod chip will arrive soon so you can really be playing in style!
Thanks mate :) Yeah that guy not knowing about a "Handheld PC engine" tsk tsk! Not sure if he was pulling my leg so replied very neutrally.

I do hope the mod chips get here soon, i'm itching to get cracking. Probably not too much longer to wait now :)
#21
That is pure art, fantastic job :)
#22
I've been playing Gunhed on my GT today (between duties with the kids etc). I haven't played it for years, it seems a bit easy nowadays, but plays very well still.
#23
If any of you guys are interested I posted some photos of my efforts replacing my caps over on Amibay where i'm a regular, I also plugged this awesome site a bit ;) : -

http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?p=212375#post212375
#24
I recently bought a GBS 8220 for use on my Neo Geo AES. I also bought an SLG3000 Scanline generator (approx 50 Euros, plugs between the output of the GBS and TV and draws power from the VGA plug). Together they make a really authentic looking image on an LCD TV. The only problem I see is that at low res (640x480) which works best for the scanline generator, the GBS flickers and screen tears occasionally, it works much better at 1024 x 768 but then the scan lines are much narrower and don't look as "real". There seems to be a connector for flashing the GBS unit, so hopefully in the future some newer firmware will address the issues, but overall right now its worth the very cheap price. I have a PC Engine GT at the moment, but plan to get a Duo soon and I want to get a sync stripper for the RGBS input of the GBS then I can have the Neo and Duo running with that lovely authentic look :)

Here's a nice website to get stuff from, I got my SLG3000 from here: -

http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/index.php
#25
That's awesome! I'll give that thread a good read, it looks very interesting, Thanks necromancer :)
#26
I wonder if there is a way to make dead pixels work again on PCE GT/TGE?... Mine is sometimes a colour, not just black, so i'm wondering if its just a bit "stuck". I've seen programs that flash flat colours quickly to bring back stuck pixels on PC monitors. It would be cool if some kind of homebrew program existied for PCE to try this (loaded up on a flash cart of some sort like the Neo Power 128M).
#27
Ah ok, I thought I could have done something to make it appear. Just coincidence I guess :)
#28
This is a fantastic Guide!! I recently bought a PC Engine GT and it had very weak audio and washed out colour. I did a full cap replacement and its now working great! nice loud audio (I used 47uF caps on the audio section) and much nicer colour :) The only thing that i'm a bit gutted about is the screen has a dead pixel appear after I did this. I was very careful with the top shell/display but for some reason when I assembled the unit the dead pixel was there. Not a REALLY big deal as it's not noticable when playing, but i'm a bit of a perfectionist so it bugs me a bit when the screen is black.