Localization Legend "Supper the Subtitler" has "joined the club" in being targeted for CD-pressings by bootleg master Tobias/PCEWorks! His projects like Private Eyedol, Galaxy Fräulein Yuna 1 & 2, etc. are now being sold on Chinese factory-pressed CDROMs...
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Messages - that1crzywhtguy

#1
Yeah, I tried to check out the region mod too, since it won't even boot to CD. It seems to always think there is a card, but then it won't load a card.

I've had steve repair a system for me in the past, and I think I may be requesting his services again with this one... :(
#2
Admittedly, I didn't test it before doing the mod, just last time I used it before I put it away. As far as doing the RGB mod, it's pretty simple, and doesn't require any lifting of pins. As you can see in the pic linked below, it just get's added in right on top. I've quadruple checked for solder blobs or other little issues, and there are none to be found. As I said, this has been repaired before, but I checked and even re-did those repairs.

le sigh

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YqZYrCf0pfXQHsABee069DEPJvM5Gwu5/view?usp=sharing
#3
Tested both suggestions, and the symptoms are identical with the stock cable, and stock cable without mod.
#4
So I have a duo R that has just started giving me problems after a RGB install.

Maybe I somehow burned out the 6260? I'm not sure how this would have happened as I didn't apply a lot of heat for long on it, and the solder joints are clean and short free.

First, a little background on the system. It had some repairs done previously, it is this console in this post: https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=21990.0

I had it working by the end of that with CD, and cards from both regions (via the gametech board).

I pulled it out of mothballs the other night, and installed a voultar RGB board with a new 8-pin din connector. Ever since, It gives me the white (or red, or blue) screen upon switching it on, weather or not there is a card in there, regardless of which way the region switch is thrown.

There are places where broken traces were repaired, but I checked there, they were solid, and even re-did them just for good measure. I've inspected the board pretty thoroughly and have found no more broken traces or bad vias.

As theSteve mentioned in another post, removing ic520 can help with diagnosing as the cards should still run. Well, I removed it, and same problem. popped it back in, same problem.

Any ideas of what's next? Did I just ruin this poor duo-r?
#5
Seems like careful shopping can get ya one from japan for $16ish shipped. Guessing after fees that's like $12-13ish to the seller?
#6
Good to know. I used the Game Gear one cause I had it on hand, but if I need to order one in the future, I'll go for that (as it doesn't require cutting of plastic). Thanks again.
#7
Thanks for the info, very useful.

I happened to have had a parts Game Gear laying around too, so I gave that a shot. Works like a charm. :)

Guess that means that, FYI, GBC pots don't work. :)
#8
Okay tried that, and same problem. Headphone jack works, but no volume control. Also noticing now, sound never stops coming out of the Multi-port, even when headphones are plugged in. This isn't normal, right?
#9
Now there's an idea. I was just thinking of purchasing a new one, but I do have a parts GBC laying around. Maybe I'll give that one a shot.
#10
Sorry if this was already answered, I did search around and didn't see any definitive answer, but I was wondering if anybody had a recommendation for a replacement of the volume wheel. I've got a PC-Engine Duo here that's recently been restored (repair, full recap, region mod, etc...) and is in near perfect working order. Only issue is that the volume wheel doesn't seem to work. It does produce audio from the headphone port, but no volume control. Guessing if I just swap the wheel out, the problem would be solved.

Anybody know what ohm this wheel is?

Thanks!
#11
I'm still lookin for a multitap that isn't totally price gouged, but I will definately check that out when I find one!
#12
Btw, thanks for suggesting Monster Lair. I never knew about this game, and it's pretty fun! :)
#13
Oh, and if anyone's wondering, here are some pics. :D

IMG
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HD: Picture_20171519041520.jpg
HD: Picture_20171519041549.jpg

#14
I fixed it!!!!! Really good advice to fix the crack yall! As I began to check it out in prep of repairing, I discovered a broken trace right next to C507 (it was the trace nearest that cap). While I was at it, I went ahead and sealed up the cracks too. Either way, this baby is working!

As always, really appreciate everyone's time and support.

:)
#15
I wasn't fearful of doing the crack repair myself, was more wanting to keep the return option available in the off chance it's not something repairable. That being said, I'm probably being overly fussy. Chances are that at least Steve can fix it, and it will probably be worth keeping.

Also, I doubt that they opened it before selling it anyway. There's no way they'd have to know that I attempted a repair and that it wasn't repaired in the past. :P

I'll do that simple repair and report back.
#16
I agree that the crack should be addressed, just figuring once I start making repairs I'm committing to keeping it and giving up my escape shoot (getting a full refund).

As far as the actual issue, it's not intermittent. It's repeatable and appears in the same ways everytime.
#17
Okay, doesn't go that far.

20170219_135609.jpg
4K: 20170219_135609.jpg

Hmmm... Now I'm thinking this isn't part of the problem, or even much of a big deal at all. I tested for continuity on each side of the crack (just scratched a tiny bit of the enamel off to give a place for the multimeter contacts), and it's solid. Of course, not saying that shouldn't be something made more solid, but you get what I'm saying.
#18
I got out the DSLR and took a couple High-res shots of top and bottom.

IMG
IMG
4K: Duo-R Top.jpg
4K: Duo-R Bottom.jpg

I figured if it was just surface stuff it wouldn't be too hard to fix, but don't know how to tell... The bottom looks clean as far as I can tell, and I did go over top and bottom looking for any trace rot. I didn't see any, but I could have missed it.

Maybe I should just send it to steve... I guess I'm Mr. Indecisive on this one...
#19
If I knew how to fix it, I would! :)

Unfortunately, I'm pretty damn good at soldering, and know basic multimeter stuff, but that's about where my skills end. I'm not terribly concerned about the pain of shipping it back to them, but I either ship it to steve, or back to them, so either way I'm shipping it somewhere.

I did get a great deal on the console, but I bought it to region mod and sell. Where I was weighing things is trying to factor in repair costs in my profit margin. As I said, I got it for very cheap, and they did offer me a partial refund for the issue...But, now that I see a crack in the board, I'm not convinced this will be cheap to repair (I hope it still might). What I don't want, is to end up with a console that's unrepairable, and no way to get my money back.

Unless Steve thinks this is still likely to be repaired fairly inexpensively (under $65ish bucks), I'm just gonna send it back to them.
#20
Crack—mild or not—in the motherboard definitely isn't good, but wasn't sure how bad it was. It only appears right there, doesn't seem very deep, and I don't see anything on the other side... That being said, do you still think this is a good possibility to repair, or would you advise me just returning it (it was sold as "tested" and in working shape), as I'm sure I can get a full refund.
#21
Check this out:

Picture_20171018011014.jpg
HD: Picture_20171018011014.jpg

Any chance this has anything to do with it? Right next to the hucard slot, some cracking. My suspicion is it's unrelated and probably not doing anything, but I don't know a lot. :D
#22
Oh, nice. Okay, sounds like this one is heading over to you soon. :)
#23
Quote from: thesteve on 02/17/2017, 01:35 PMCould be a bad ram chip, bad D91317GD or open Trace
In most cases it's the trace
Well, if it's an open trace I imagine it's another cheap fix like the last duo, but if it's an IC, then it's not fixable without a donor console, yeah?
#24
Quote from: thesteve on 02/17/2017, 05:22 AMBad address on pcm ram is possible, and has been seen a few times
Test with YS3
just let it loop and watch for scrambled frames
That game has no pcm, but uses the pcm ram as a buffer for some images
Bingo. Got some hugely scrambled frames.

Is that chip something that can be replaced, or does this mean this duo is toast?
#25
Adding on to the great practical advice sent your way by Keith, I'd like to mention a couple things:

Rondo of Blood
Lords of Thunder

:)

Enjoy!
#26
Yeah, this whole issue is pretty dang strange. It sure would seem like it would be a lens reading issue, just strange that it's the same across different CD-Rs and that god awful fart noise, so weird! :) I'm gonna write Steve, will report back if we ever figure it out.
#27
I tried a different brand of CD-R, and got the same results. I tried to tweak VR102 and looked for a short as well, no luck.

So, if it is something like ram that failed... Is this fixable/worth fixing?
#28
Okay. So I burned monster lair (and for the record, the CD-R I use these days is much better than the stuff I had laying around before). That weird audio issue is gone now, although if you look at this video:
you will notice that the main character sprite is distorted as hell. Also, sometimes the music would go away.

Assuming this means ADPCM is the cause of the fart sounds, is this fixable? As far as the music dropping out, that means the laser at least needs an adjustment, right?
#29
Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/16/2017, 01:25 AMI don't think monster lair uses any adpcm but I'm not 100% positive.

Also, Sometimes ADPCM sound can get f'ed up when a drive cannot read the CD very well. You might have burned some bad ISOs or your DUO-R hates the media you are using.
That's a good tip. I'll try to burn it in a few minutes, although I don't have that media anymore (I burned those ages ago). If it's reading funky, any chance this could be remedied with laser calibration? I don't know how to do it, but I could learn. :)
#30
Quote from: esteban on 02/15/2017, 04:58 PMI know! It's an easy mistake to make: you must have accidentally turned on "Virtual Cushion" mode (in the options/settings), but you aren't using a Virtual Cushion, are you?

Problem solved.

:)
I was wondering if someone would go there. :)

Quote from: SignOfZeta on 02/15/2017, 05:16 PMIt sounds like corrupted ADPCM sound then, especially if it doesn't affect HuCARDs. I asked about real CDs since it's not impossible that bad reads could cause this, although it's not likely.

As for what could cause this in a Duo R...I don't know. Does it have any mods or repairs or anything?

Try a game with no ADPCM sound in it. I don't know of any but I'm sure they exist, probably some garbage title, see if it still does it.
No mods, it's stock. As far as a game with no ADPCM, I'm not sure. If someone has an idea, I'd be happy to try it out (I didn't even know what ADPCM was before your post, had to use Dr. Google).

I got this R super cheap, so I'd like to find a way to fix it, but if it's not something that can be done easily, I'll just file an ebay claim and ship it back.

Quote from: SignOfZeta on 02/15/2017, 05:16 PMAlso, it's Gate of Thunder, not Gates.
Lol, I actually mean Lords of Thunder anyway. :)
#31
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 02/14/2017, 11:22 PMWhat does a real game do?
Tbh, I don't own any real CD titles.

That being said, both CD-R games I tried made the same exact funky sound. In gates of thunder, whenever you get hit, it makes that same god-awful screech.
#32
That same sound actually pops up in other games as well. I am running CD-Rs currently, but ones that have worked on other duos with no problems.
#33
Not having the best of luck over here again! Just got another Duo, this time an R, from yamatoku-classic, and this one (even though listed as tested) has issues too. The audio makes a tearing noise sometimes.

Here is a video of what it's doing:
Any ideas?
Thanks!
#34
Nevermind!

I was using an aftermarket genesis 2 power adapter I bought off Amazon. It appears that it didn't produce enough power or something, cause when I used my real genny 2 power adapter, now it works. That being said, there are some weird graphical and sound glitches now, but I think that warrants a new/different post.
#35
Not having the best of luck over here again! Just got another Duo, this time an R, from yamatoku-classic, and this one (even though listed as tested) has issues too. Hu-card games seem to run fine, but the CD portion doesn't seem to work at all. When I try to load a cd game, it blinks and flickers, makes a weird sound out of the speakers, and eventually says load error.

Here is a video of what it's doing:
This is probably just a cap issue, right?

Thanks!
#36
Quote from: Eddiesamma on 02/11/2017, 10:32 PMWhen I say high end I mean on the buy an n.e.c. broadcast monitor instead price range lol
Thus why I was trying to get creative with this idea. :)
#37
Quote from: Eddiesamma on 02/09/2017, 07:50 PMAssuming that your talking about a standard definition tube tv
I actually had in mind a EDTV 480p LCD.

Quote from: Eddiesamma on 02/09/2017, 07:50 PMAnd higher end vga to component adaptors that can correct the signal to what a standard tube is expecting.
What got me thinking about this in the first place is that I have yet to find, cheap or otherwise, a decent converter. They all do a horrible job, producing a crummy signal.
#38
I'm looking at thesteve's component board found at : https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=13231.0

and wondering... Could this be used to convert VGA to component? I know this is really built for console side, but could it work anyway? I know it would need to include a a sync combiner... but, thoughts?
#39
Quote from: thesteve on 02/04/2017, 11:22 PMthe place to start is the data bus (system side) on the D91317GD
you will need a scope or logic probe to check it, as your looking for missing or stuck signals
Ah... Yeah, I don't own a probe or know anything about using one... So probably beyond my current capabilities... Thanks for weighing in. I sent ya a pm too my friend. :)
#40
Well, even though I'm in the same spot with a console I don't likely know how to repair, still feels nice to know I wasn't deliberately screwed. :)

Gonna take a really close look later to hunt for a faulty trace, but I suspect I won't be able to repair this issue on my own. I read up on that chip you pointed me toward, and unfortunately that's over my head. Unless there is something  I can physically see, or something I can be pointed to check with a multimeter—is there?—, then I'll never crack this nut I'm afraid. I did take away an extra hunk of respect for thw folks on this forum though, so cool how theSteve figured out all the functions of that chip. Maybe he'll chime in with a thing or two I can check. Also pmed him about potential repair cost.

Either way, I'll finish up the full recap and region mod really soon. Once I hear back from theSteve, I'll just have to weigh sending it to him for repair first against just selling it as a fully-recapped and region-modded duo with need of cd repair...
#41
Quote from: mickcris on 02/04/2017, 05:59 PMHave you tried to adjust the pots yet?  Could be as simple as that. 
I did unfortunately, but to no avail. Considering that the busy light doesn't even come on, and that the system seems to always think it's closed, I'm thinking it might be a more serious issue.

Quote from: mickcris on 02/04/2017, 05:59 PMIt's the hk game dr, that you have to watch out for selling systems that he could not get working
Okay great tip, thanks. I'll be sure to avoid repair systems from that seller. :)
#42
Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/04/2017, 04:44 PMif a chip is bad it is most likely the D91317GD but it could also be a bad Trace somewhere.

may I ask where you bought the duo from? There are a couple sellers on eBay I can think of that when they realize the system cannot be repaired with new capacitors that they simply just sell it for repair or parts. 90% of the time this turns out to be a bad chip on the motherboard. I have learned over time which sellers to stay away from.
Uh oh... It came from yamatoku-classic. Did I get suckered?

-_-
#43
Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/04/2017, 08:05 AMIf the screen sits on saying (Just a moment) but won't show the please close lid message if you open it then this is what you should look at.
Exactly what this duo is doing.

Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/04/2017, 08:05 AMCheck the two 47UF caps near the Red CD loading light.
I actually already changed all three of the caps near there and cleaned the board up near by.

Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/04/2017, 08:05 AMThere should be a Large via hole just to the right of them that should read 5V.
Yep, I get 5v from those vias and off the positive cap legs.


Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/04/2017, 08:05 AMIf 5V is there then your problem could be a bad chip on the board.
Dangit.... What is a "bad chip on the board?" Are we talking the BA6209A I've heard some mention?

Quote from: Keith Courage on 02/04/2017, 08:05 AMBest to then send it off to (the steve) for repair.
I bought this console to recap, region mod, and eventually sell. Not sure I wanna sink a bunch of money into it... But I'll shoot Steve a PM and inquire about cost...
#44
Hello all! I'm back again begging for assistance!  :lol:

Picked up a duo in need of repair from japan. Tested it out once received, and discovered hucard, sound, and composite out seemed to work mostly fine. However, the cd would not spin. I was getting no movement of the motor, and not seeing a single blink or budge from the laser. When I press run, it just gets stuck on please wait.

First thing I did was test the tray open switch, works fine. So, I set to work changing caps. I started off with just the ones near the laser, just to see if it made a difference. When it didn't, I did another few things to test the unit. First I grabbed another cd assembly I have from another duo that I know to be functioning. This gave me the same exact results as the one originally in this unit. Since I know this cd drive works, I figured I'd leave it in it for now as I continued diagnosing. I tested the motor, and it checked out. While I was at it I greased it up with white lithium. I then continued to swap capacitors as I pondered what to do next and did some searching on here and other places.

Well, I came up with nothing else to try. It seems so odd to me that both drives did nothing while hooked up to this duo, considering the other functions seem to be okay.

I haven't completed the full recap yet, but will continue this weekend. Are those caps super far away really likely to prevent the drive from even spinning or the laser from even blinking?

As always, thanks in advance my friends.
#45
Sorry to necropost... I have almost the same problem. I'm wondering if this was resolved.
#46
Quote from: thesteve on 01/11/2017, 12:26 PMfun, ive had caps chips and solder cause that, good luck
Thanks. I may have to send this off to repair, and it might be toast anyway. -_-
#47
Quote from: Desh on 01/11/2017, 08:39 AMI would start with disconnecting your ground and check for the short.  If the short goes away at least you've narrowed it down to a bridged or incorrect connection with the mod.  I'm sure you've already double checked but triple check you have the correct connections on the mod.  I would also start checked pin to pin of any IC you soldered to.  There could be a bridged connection underneath somewhere you can't see.
I did try disconnecting the ground from the mod already, and still the short. I also tried checking the IC pins for a bridge, but nothing there either.
#48
Quote from: Keith Courage on 01/10/2017, 03:36 PMwhat happens when you try to turn it on? Absolutely nothing?

Is the fuse good? 7805 Voltage regulators good?
I tried switching it on for a super short moment and got no video and just a building humm through the speakers. The fuse is fine. As for the regulators, I'm leery of leaving the console on long enough to test em. If I use my multimeter to test continuity between ground and the 5v cart pin (or the 5v point I was using for the RGB amp) I detect a short (only 2.2ohm).
#49
I must admit,  I'm feeling pretty ashamed. Been working on my PC-Engine Duo...I just fixed the dang thing yesterday with a video issue, and now I think I've really gone and mucked things up. As I was proceeding with an RGB mod, I plugged it in to test. I noticed a spark coming off of where I grounded both my obey region chip and the 6280 to the case. I knew this wasn't good, and immediately disconnected. I have no clue what I did to cause this issue, but would seem there is a short somewhere. I took off the RGB chip and checked all over the place for solder blobs or a broken trace or anything burned looking. I see no problems with my visual inspection, but beyond that I'm not sure what to check for. I'm no electronics expert, and mostly just follow instructions pretty well.

Did I totally fry it? I sure hope not. If anybody knows what to check that would be great, and if not, I would wonder about a good repair service so this thing doesn't end up in a trash bin while my heart breaks.

Thanks in advance!
#50
Quote from: Keith Courage on 01/09/2017, 02:43 PMusually during a recap where the video is damaged, the problem is the traces for the 470uf capacitor which is right by the power switch.
You're a genius!!! That was it!!! Hurray!