10/31/2023: Localization News - Dead of the Brain 1!

No, NOT a trick, a Halloween treat! Presenting the Dead of the Brain 1 English patch by David Shadoff for the DEAD last official PC Engine CD game published by NEC before exiting the console biz in 1999! I helped edit/betatest and it's also a game I actually finished in 2023, yaaay! Shubibiman also did a French localization. github.com/dshadoff/DeadoftheBrain
twitter.com/NightWolve/PCENews
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Messages - YAGRS

#1
Quote from: TheClash603 on 02/13/2013, 10:41 PMDid the Incredible Technologies employee ask you any questions about how to make a good game?
Hating on Battle Royale? Sure, the controls were just godawful, but I played that game a LOT with friends.

I still have yet to play through my copy of Mysterious Song. I need to get around to that.
#2
Thanks for the reply. Though I have a multimeter, I'd never used it except to adjust the pot on my GameCube. I think I have this wired correctly now, but I can't try it out yet, as I didn't realize until I started the S-video mod that I don't have a 0.001 uf cap on hand.
#3
Okay, if this shows up twice, I apologize and will delete one of the threads. I got an error message the first time, but it then said that the topic posted, even though I didn't see it show up on the board. Anyway . . .

I'm in the process of trying to install my Turbo Tap inside my TG-16 case, and the easiest way I can think to do this is to cut the plug from the Turbo Tap and wire it directly to where the controller port connects to the board. I think that would allow me to use the Turbo Tap when I have multiple players, or I could use the single controller port when I'm playing by myself. The problem is that I'm having trouble locating a pinout for this online. I've attached an image of the bottom of the board where the controller port connects along with a pic of the wire assembly that connects to the Turbo Tap. I'm not sure if you can see, but there are 9 wires in the wire assembly (from left to right): black, brown, gray, blue, purple, green, yellow, orange, and red. I assume that the black wire goes to ground (or maybe +5v?—I really am a novice here) and that the rest should go to specific points where the controller port is soldered on (see circled area in the other picture). If anyone has any knowledge of this and can dumb it down for me (i.e., tell me which wire should go to which solder point), I would be greatly appreciative! I'm trying to get this mod and the s-video mod completed on my Turbo today.

IMG

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#4
Excellent. Just sent my Turbo CD off to be fixed so that it (hopefully) will be ready for this.
#5
Okay, I have to admit that I handled this sales thread poorly. I did not expect the influx of messages that I received. I responded to a couple of people, and in the meantime, I came up with some prices for the games. When I kept getting PMs from people and hadn't heard back from those I contacted, I decided that I would just sell to whoever was willing to pay first, as going down the line of PMs and waiting for people to respond was going to drag this out. I had people contacting me who were willing to pay my asking prices or close to them.

If a game is still listed (i.e., there is a title and a price) and isn't marked as pending, it is still available. A lot of the games that I got contacted about early on were taken this morning, so the games that you PMed me about earlier may no longer be available.

Sorry, I realize some people may be upset that they were among the first to contact me, yet someone else ended up with the games they requested. One bad thing about selling through forums is that people will contact you, you'll respond with prices, they'll say they want the items, and then you never hear from them again. I didn't want to waste my time and the time of those who were actually interested in purchasing the games.

Anyway, now that prices are listed, if you are interested in any games, please let me know, and we can work from there.
#6
Sorry about those who PMed me yesterday that I didn't respond to. I just got inundated with messages, which is why I decided I couldn't really wait for people to get back to me. I want to be fair, but I also don't want to wait around for responses that may never come, especially with so many people who seem to really want these games.
#7
Okay, because the people I responded to regarding these games have yet to get back to me, and because I'm receiving a lot of inquiries here and at Atari Age (where they are also listed) about these games and can't wait a day for someone to get back to me, I'm going to sell based on who is willing to pay first.

All of the game prices are listed. If you see a game in one of the pictures that isn't listed, it means that game has been bought. Remember, prices are somewhat negotiable.

Also, I have received messages from people trying to just pick up the free games. Those games are being made available for those who are interested in buying other games. I will not respond to messages just asking for the free games.

Thanks again, and let me know if you have questions!
#8
Updated the original post. I'll be responding to PMs in order (i.e., after I get a response from the first in line whether or not he wants the game, I'll move to the next, unless he takes an unreasonable amount of time to respond).
#9
By the way, if anyone knows of a good pricing resource for Turbo games, please let me know. I haven't priced games in a very long time, and the only way I know how to get current prices is to search completed auctions (not Buy It Now) on eBay. Considering the strong aversion I've seen here toward the prices on eBay (which do seem highly variable), I would prefer to base my prices on a different resource, as long as it's fair.
#10
Just looked through all of the PMs. Thanks for the interest! I'll get back to all of you at some point tonight.
#11
If you are interested in any games, please send your zip code whenever you contact me. That generally saves at least one PM exchange.


Keith Courage in Alpha Zones—$3.00
[Some scuffs on case. End label looks good, but may be a little faded. Manual appears to be in really good shape. HuCard has marks on the back where it has been inserted/removed from the TG16 (one visible without holding card at an angle). I'm the original owner.]

IMG
#12
Okay, I may PM you about this. The Turbo CD was working fine prior to me installing the new gear, except that if I let it sit without playing it for a while, I would have to open it up and move the middle gear around (which is why I finally decided to change the gear). After changing the gear, it was working with some, but not all games. Then, after messing around with it a little more, it would only spin discs a partial turn. Not sure what I did, or if something had been going bad and just happened to go out at that point.
#13
I think I'm ready to give up on my Turbo CD. I haven't replaced the leaking cap yet, but I've tried adjusting the pot and re-examined the cables, etc., and I'm still having the same issues.

So, is there anyone with a lot of experience working on Turbo CDs who would be interested in trying to fix it? If so, please PM me with what you would charge.
#14
Quote from: guest on 06/21/2012, 02:50 PMI'm still staring at the clouds, and now I want to play Shadow of the Breast some more.
Intentional? Freudian slip? :)

Anyway, love the look of the game. Don't know anything about it yet, so I need to look around. Just curious, is the change from day to night going to be part of the game? If so, is it possible to darken the color of the ground/sprites to correspond to the transition to night? Not saying the color has to change with each sky transition, but everything appears to still be well lit, even with the sun down.

Looks very cool, though.
#15
To be honest, the thought of selling a box for half a grand feels a bit dirty.
#16
Do Virtual Console games count? I don't have the HuCard for Dragon's Curse, but I do have it on the VC, and I wouldn't mind playing through it again. Same goes for Neutopia (which I don't think has been marked off yet, but I may wrong there).
#17
Wow, that's crazy. It makes it awfully damn tempting to sell mine as well. And I DO have all of the manuals. I still have the CD+G, too.
#18
Potentiometer adjustment? If so, is there a good way to go about adjusting this, or is it a bunch of trial and error?
#19
Okay, I uploaded a couple of videos showing my Turbo CD disassembled and then what happens when it's assembled and I attempt to use it.
#20
I probably should clarify what I meant by "cover." I didn't mean the lid to the CD player but the metal piece that is over the laser sled that has the cut out section for the laser to read CDs (sorry, I wish I had a better idea of what these parts are actually called to prevent confusion). Anyway this cover was rubbing discs until I bent it back down. It scratched an audio CD I let play for a bit, but I fortunately didn't ruin any of my games.

I did switch the wires, and until I reopened it to bend back the cover, I did have games playing on system.

I've inspected all of the wires, and they are all connected, and the ribbon cables are connected correctly.

So . . . I'm stumped. All that I could think is that it had something to do with that metal cover, as that is the part I screwed up. The only other thing I noticed is that I do have one leaking capacitor (one of the 470 uF caps).
#21
I posted a little about this in the thread for Keith Courage's Turbo CD replacement gear, but I don't want to derail things there. Plus, this puts my problem up front where others might see it.

Anyway, I received the replacement gear today, and I happily began to disassemble my Turbo CD in order to fix it. In anticipation of the new gear's arrival, I had already removed the old middle gear (which fell apart as I did so) and post. One thing that I had yet to do was to remove the one metal piece near the gears so that the new gear would fit. I ran into a problem attempting to do this, as the screw did not want to turn; instead, the head began to strip. I decided that I could just as easily clip off the part of the metal piece that would prevent the new gear from fitting, so I proceeded to do so.

I used a pair of old, small wire snips to get at the metal piece. It was still a tight fit, and apparently I bent the metal cover for the laser in the process, which I didn't know until after I put everything back together and began troubleshooting why some CDs didn't want to spin.

I spent the next several hours attempting to fix what I had done, and I managed to get the CD cover bent back to where it at least looks flat. However, in the process, I lost one of the tiny screws for the cover (I keep going over the area where I was working with a magnet, but I've had no luck finding it).

When I turn on the Turbo CD now, the laser will move (if I have it away from the spindle), but the disc only starts to spin and immediately stops.

So, does anyone know what the issue is? Is it the one tiny screw that is missing? Have I harmed my Turbo CD beyond repair?
#22
Yeah, it looks like I f'ed this one up. The screw that held the metal piece I needed to remove to make room for the gear wouldn't unscrew. I tried a few times, and all that I managed to do was strip the head a little. So, I decided to cut the metal piece out instead. I didn't realize how thin the metal is for the black cover, and I guess when I was cutting the metal piece out, I pressed into it and bent it. I've been trying to fix it, but I haven't managed to get it right yet, and more things are going wrong, so . . . I'm done, at least for tonight. I've managed what should have been an easy fix into a bit of a nightmare :)
#23
Well . . . damn. The only issue I saw with the cables is that the ground strip was coming loose. I pressed it back on, made sure that everything was hooked up correctly, and the disc still won't spin. The only other issue that I can see is that I have at least one cap that has leaked (either one of the 470 uF caps or the 100 uF cap that is next to it—they're so close I can't tell which).

Any other suggestions?

EDIT:

Never mind. I pressed down on the CD assembly, and now discs spin. Working well now. Thanks for the help, and thanks for finding this solution to the gear problem, Keith!

EDIT 2:

Well, I thought everything was okay, but it won't spin some discs. It seems to do okay with Turbo CDs, but I put in an audio CD, and it either won't spin at all or will just barely spin. It's almost as if it's struggling to spin the disc. Could this have anything at all to do with the potentiometer? I'm going to try to adjust it.
#24
I'm going to show my ignorance here but, would the laser still move if that were the case? I followed all of the wires, and everything appears to be intact.
#25
I got my gear today, installed it, switched the blue and pink wires, put everything back together, turned on my Turbo CD and . . . the disc won't spin. The laser is moving, but for some reason, the disc is stationary. My Turbo CD had been working previously (I just had to keep opening it up and moving the middle gear to loosen it, which is why I wanted to do this mod).

Anyone have any ideas what I might have done? Everything appears to be intact, so I'm having problems determining what might have gone wrong.
#26
Wow, I'm astounded. I still have the box mine came in. I never would have thought it would be worth more than the system.
#27
I did a search prior to posting this and found a thread in which someone asked about using the unmodified ROM, and it was explained why that wouldn't work, but I didn't see anything about the possibility of hacking a ROM. The Tennokoe Bank cards are still easy to find and can be found for cheap, so it's not that big of a deal. Would be nice to back up saves to something that doesn't require a battery, though.

Anyway, thanks for answering!
#28
Over on the Everdrive forums, I asked about the possibility of including a feature in the Turbo Everdrive that would allow backing up the save memory from the Turbo Booster Plus, Turbo CD, Duo, etc. Igor (the creator of the Everdrives) does not plan on implementing this, but it made me wonder if it would be possible to hack the ROM for the Tennokoe Bank to save to backup the internal memory to the Everdrive (or your flash cart of choice). As someone who has lost saves due to not powering up my Turbo frequently enough to keep the cap charged, I would love to be able to put these saves on the micro SD card that the Turbo Everdrive will use and then either keep them there or transfer them to my PC.

I haven't done any real hacking myself (other than changing a few values in a hex editor to get rid of region protection, etc.), so this isn't something I would be able to do. I'm just curious as to whether it is possible and how difficult it might be for someone with experience hacking ROMs.
#29
Quote from: Keith Courage on 06/06/2012, 12:19 AMThere is no reason to put an S-video jack in the CD base. Installing one in the turbografx system itself would be easiest and will work for both chip and CD games. You would just want to use the CD base still for the audio.
Okay, this is what I was wondering. I didn't know if the CD video had to come out of the CD base or not. If I can mod my TG-16 for S-video, connect the CD base, and use the S-video for both, then I'm going to try this mod.
#30
And that, in all likelihood, is beyond my abilities at this point. Maybe someday.
#31
Question from someone who isn't very tech savvy—will this work with the Turbo CD? If not, has anyone come up with a solution for getting S-video from a Turbo CD?
#32
I tried to play the Sega CD version once, but I didn't care for it. We used to play the original Dungeon Explorer a lot, and it's still one of my favorite TG games. I've yet to play Dungeon Explorer II, as I don't have anyone around now who would be interested in playing it, plus my Turbo Tap doesn't seem to be functioning the way it should.