The amp is getting the video ground from the 6260. I replaced the stock DIN 5 with a DIN 8 and it's getting the ground from the PCB ground plane from one of the DIN 8 through holes.
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The Analogue Turbo Duo clone shipped in time for Christmas 2023. Are you happy with yours ?? Find firmware updates here. ![]() |
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Show posts MenuQuote1) Pull the RF signal from pin 2 on the P5 connector, and ground it on pin 1 of P5.
2) Set your scope to 2.00V/Div and 1.000us/Div. Get your readings while your CD system is trying to load the disc.
3) While the CD attempts to load, use a plastic or other non-metal small Phillips-head screwdriver to turn VR102. You're trying to get the greatest amplitude (biggest wave) you can. Once you've found the spot that makes the wave as large as it can be, move on to VR101 and do the exact same thing.
4) After you've made the biggest wave you can, set your scope trigger to be at the far left of your screen, and about 3/4 of the way up the waveform you're pulling. Turn VR104 clockwise until the disc stops spinning. Once this happens, make the smallest turns you can COUNTER-clockwise and wait a few seconds between each turn to see if the disc starts spinning. Once it does, move on to VR103.
5) VR103 is kind of the odd pot out - it's incredibly touchy, and it seems to vary on a per-Duo basis how to set it. Ideally, you want to turn it until your drive is making no real noise - no squeaks, no whines, no chugs or repetitive clicking noises. It should run almost silently. You can find your starting point by turning it counter-clockwise until it starts making a faint whine-like noise. When this happens, turn it CLOCKWISE by a hair, and I do mean 'just a hair'. I'm not exaggerating when I say that the VR103 pot has a very small window of operation. Use a game with a soundtest available right off the bat, like Rondo of Blood. Playtest the first and last tracks while making minute adjustments. There should be no crackling or audio dropouts at all. This can take some time, so be patient, and you'll pull through.
Quote from: KalessinDB on 09/20/2013, 12:55 PMJust wanted to chime in about this. Component Video (YPbPr) and RGB are both lossless formats. They're exactly the same quality.Quote from: Marll on 09/11/2013, 03:12 PMYeah I like the board you've created and it seems easy enough for me to tap the expansion port (I'd put this in my CD Dock). I'm just wondering if RGB is significantly better picture wise than component. Like if composite is worst, then Svideo, then Component and then RGB. Unfortunately pictures on the internet usually don't do what everyone is seeing on screen in person justice.As far as I can tell, this (like many questions) is a very subjective answer. However, the most common answer I've seen is "YPbPr and RGB are basically interchangeable for most people's perceptions", meaning that while RGB may in theory be a touch better, the average human eye won't be able to tell the difference. I know I can't tell a difference with any pictures I've seen (which you seem to intimate is the same with you -- I also don't have any RGB or scart connections to test), and I know I CAN tell a difference going from S-Video to Component on my various systems (some more so than others depending on how good the S-Video was).
I know that you can't answer the question personally not having done an RGB mod, but would be interesting to get someone's take that have seen both.
Take that for what you will, but I for one am happy getting things into YPbPr rather than monkeying with converters that are bound to add lag in an effort to turn RGB into HDMI (since there's no real other way to use pure RGB without finding a PVM or something).
That reminds me, I really need to send turbokon my Jaguar so he can test that one out
Quote from: turbokon on 08/15/2013, 09:21 AMI'm curious about your design Turbokon, I notice thesteve's schematic on the front says 1K off the B, R lines, and 1K on the sync. But on your PCB you're using 2K on the R,B, 1K for G and 510 Ohm on the sync.Quote from: ConHuevos on 08/15/2013, 03:43 AMAwesome thanks, currently making a board in Eagle to send to oshparkThesteve, correct me if I'm wrong, the 1kohm resistors are needed to help with the offset voltage cause by the genni's rgb lines outputting at a higher voltage then the pce. Impedance is something different, is the ratio of voltage to current in a ac circuit. This design operates in a dc, so impedance and resistance are the same. Theoretically, the additional 1kohm resistance should work with other rgb systems..
Oh nevermind...read your post in the sales section.
Turbokon really should edit his post as he is generalizing that all other console will only require 1k extra resistance on the RGB inputs, when it's impedance dependent.
QuotePretty long wait for something so simple. Glad I did my ownYa, I love how stoneagegamer used terms like "prototyping" a small piece of plastic that isn't even an odd shape with 2 half circles cut out, held in by screws...lol