The Analogue Turbo Duo clone shipped in time for Christmas 2023. Are you happy with yours ?? Find firmware updates here.
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Messages - ConHuevos

#1
The amp is getting the video ground from the 6260.  I replaced the stock DIN 5 with a DIN 8 and it's getting the ground from the PCB ground plane from one of the DIN 8 through holes.
#2
Anyone out there that could confirm or deny this please?  Thanks.
#3
Got a question regarding the video out on a US Turbo duo.  I recently switched from component to RGB and modded both my TG-16 and my Duo.  I grabbed RGB and Sync from the 6260 and sync is being amplified through a LM1881.  I'm using the RGB amp that has the THS7314 with the 3M pullups.

It looks absolutely great on my TG-16 but my Turbo Duo has some blurriness to it and it's very noticable.  I double checked everything and it's exactly the same setup.  Is this a known thing?  Thanks.
#4
Quote1)  Pull the RF signal from pin 2 on the P5 connector, and ground it on pin 1 of P5.
2)  Set your scope to 2.00V/Div and 1.000us/Div.  Get your readings while your CD system is trying to load the disc.
3)  While the CD attempts to load, use a plastic or other non-metal small Phillips-head screwdriver to turn VR102.  You're trying to get the greatest amplitude (biggest wave) you can.  Once you've found the spot that makes the wave as large as it can be, move on to VR101 and do the exact same thing.
4)  After you've made the biggest wave you can, set your scope trigger to be at the far left of your screen, and about 3/4 of the way up the waveform you're pulling.  Turn VR104 clockwise until the disc stops spinning.  Once this happens, make the smallest turns you can COUNTER-clockwise and wait a few seconds between each turn to see if the disc starts spinning.  Once it does, move on to VR103.
5)  VR103 is kind of the odd pot out - it's incredibly touchy, and it seems to vary on a per-Duo basis how to set it.  Ideally, you want to turn it until your drive is making no real noise - no squeaks, no whines, no chugs or repetitive clicking noises.  It should run almost silently.  You can find your starting point by turning it counter-clockwise until it starts making a faint whine-like noise.  When this happens, turn it CLOCKWISE by a hair, and I do mean 'just a hair'.  I'm not exaggerating when I say that the VR103 pot has a very small window of operation.  Use a game with a soundtest available right off the bat, like Rondo of Blood.  Playtest the first and last tracks while making minute adjustments.  There should be no crackling or audio dropouts at all.  This can take some time, so be patient, and you'll pull through.
#5
I had this issue on my duo.  I would load the everdrive on my duo which was not region modded and had all the caps replaced.  It would load games but they would be corrupt.  It worked perfect on my TG-16 however.

Even had Krikkz look at it and he sent be a brand new one, same thing happened.

krikzz.com/forum/index.php?topic=186.0

I made a topic here about it as well and no one knew the answer.

I solved the problem by replacing the reservoir caps on the 7805 regulators with larger ones (2200uF from 1000uF).  I also replaced the 7805's with 1.5A 7805's.

krikzz.com/forum/index.php?topic=186.msg20167#msg20167

Works fine on my Duo now.
#6
Ya saw those, was also PM'd by someone else of this.  My problem is I'm pretty certain this is a clone and not genuine, but I'm not really sure if the clones perform badly or not either, i.e. blow up after a month of usage :P.
#7
My laser is dying and I searched through some of the threads, but the only replacements I could find were in the $40 range =/....Anything else out there someone could link me please?  Thanks.
#9
Is there a Duo version of this manual and do you happen to have it?
#10
I'll take the peach boy if no one else will :).
#11
Quote from: KalessinDB on 09/20/2013, 12:55 PM
Quote from: Marll on 09/11/2013, 03:12 PMYeah I like the board you've created and it seems easy enough for me to tap the expansion port (I'd put this in my CD Dock). I'm just wondering if RGB is significantly better picture wise than component. Like if composite is worst, then Svideo, then Component and then RGB. Unfortunately pictures on the internet usually don't do what everyone is seeing on screen in person justice.

I know that you can't answer the question personally not having done an RGB mod, but would be interesting to get someone's take that have seen both.
As far as I can tell, this (like many questions) is a very subjective answer.  However, the most common answer I've seen is "YPbPr and RGB are basically interchangeable for most people's perceptions", meaning that while RGB may in theory be a touch better, the average human eye won't be able to tell the difference.  I know I can't tell a difference with any pictures I've seen (which you seem to intimate is the same with you -- I also don't have any RGB or scart connections to test), and I know I CAN tell a difference going from S-Video to Component on my various systems (some more so than others depending on how good the S-Video was).

Take that for what you will, but I for one am happy getting things into YPbPr rather than monkeying with converters that are bound to add lag in an effort to turn RGB into HDMI (since there's no real other way to use pure RGB without finding a PVM or something).

That reminds me, I really need to send turbokon my Jaguar so he can test that one out :D
Just wanted to chime in about this.  Component Video (YPbPr) and RGB are both lossless formats.  They're exactly the same quality. 

The difference between the two is that YPbPr uses algebra to calculate the color signal to save on bandwidth, while RGB just carries the signal in 3 channels.  Component video takes luma for black and white, and takes Red - Luma and Blue - Luma to calculate the green. 

So there's no difference in quality.  There may be slight color differentiation going on however, this is due to the mixing when converting RGB -> Component, but the video quality and clarity are exactly the same.
#12
For the TG16, I put 4 bypass caps on the encoder, and then 2 on the component circuit.

IMG

I don't use a 22uF like TheSteve suggested. 1 0.1uF Ceramic and 1 220uF Aluminum can in parallel for each pin.

I tried at first with just 0.1uF bypasses on the circuit and encoder but I still had bars.  I noticed on my oscilloscope I was getting some noise on the vcc line so I added the 220uF's in parallel with them, it got rid of them and reduced the noise greatly.


Then just put a 0.1uF and 220uF in parallel between your vcc and GND input on the circuit.

Screenshots using my PEXHDCAP to capture the Component:

IMG
IMG

It looks amazing on my CRT.

Big thanks to TheSteve for creating this circuit, it's great!
#13
Got rid of the jailbars, added a 220uF and a 0.1uF bypass caps between 5v and GND on the circuit.
#14
Anyone else get jailbars on a snes when using this?  Weird thing is, I don't get them with my TV but through my capture card.  I know its my circuit because I don't have jailbars when I run my snes via straight rgb to my PVM or my capture card (PEXHDCAP), I put 2 decoupling caps (2x .01uF) on the 5V coming to the circuit but doesn't seem to help any.

Anyone else have this?
#15
Quote from: turbokon on 08/15/2013, 09:21 AM
Quote from: ConHuevos on 08/15/2013, 03:43 AMAwesome thanks, currently making a board in Eagle to send to oshpark :).

Oh nevermind...read your post in the sales section.

Turbokon really should edit his post as he is generalizing that all other console will only require 1k extra resistance on the RGB inputs, when it's impedance dependent.
Thesteve, correct me if I'm wrong, the 1kohm resistors are needed to help with the offset voltage cause by the genni's rgb lines outputting at a higher voltage then the pce. Impedance is something different, is the ratio of voltage to current in a ac circuit. This design operates in a dc, so impedance and resistance are the same. Theoretically, the additional 1kohm resistance should work with other rgb systems.
I'm curious about your design Turbokon, I notice thesteve's schematic on the front says 1K off the B, R lines, and 1K on the sync.  But on your PCB  you're using 2K on the R,B, 1K for G and 510 Ohm on the sync.

I can't tell from your genesis picture...but you added another resistor to the board, which is an additional 1K  on RGB?  So are you using 3K Ohm's off the R, B lines and 2K on G with the genesis?
#16
Awesome thanks, currently making a board in Eagle to send to oshpark :).

Oh nevermind...read your post in the sales section.

Turbokon really should edit his post as he is generalizing that all other console will only require 1k extra resistance on the RGB inputs, when it's impedance dependent.
#17
Is the last schematic posted the latest version or have there been updates?  If so, can you post them?
#18
In Vp-p?  If you have tools to measure impedance I'd appreciate the approximate amounts.  If they are indeed higher than .77Vp-p I'll need to use a divider to drop them down.
#19
Anyone know the impedance for the RGB lines coming off the 6260 by chance?
#20
I'd also like to sign up for dragons curse.
#22
My BA6592F's finally got through customs....only to find out I don't have enough rca jacks now >_>.  Need to wait for those to arrive before I can play with this.
#23
Ok, I'd still prefer to know the stock values for each pot for the duo's however if anyone could provide them.  Thanks.
#24
I've read the sticky and those values don't seem to be correct as setting my pots to them, it won't read cds.  If someone could take a Ohm reader to their pots and label them and their correct resistance I'd greatly appreciate it.  Thanks.
#25
Ah, I just want something where I don't have to rip a hole in the system.  I want it to be able to go back to stock if I ever want to change it.
#26
I'm going to be installing a BA6592F coupled with a 3 video channel amp in my duo as soon as my parts arrive within the next 2 weeks, I'll post my results.

In the mean time does anyone know if you can buy the AV connector plug for a turbo duo or do I need to change it to something like a mini din so I can make a component cable for this.
#27
I'll try my hand I suppose.
#28
Thanks this was a good read.
#30
That looks great,  but I'd like to see a "zoomed out" picture as well, kinda hard to tell with just a close up.  It seems to look great though!
#31
I'd like to enter, thanks.
#32
Ya I'm pretty certain I got a defective card, gonna mail it back.
#33
Can anyone with a turbo duo and a turbo ever drive confirm if soldier blade (USA) has sprite artifacts on the title screen?  Also aero blasters enemy explosions, basically play through the first stage of aeroblasters and you should notice them about halfway through.  I know it isn't my rom because both these games play fine on my flash hucard on my duo and I'm using the no-intro rom set.

SoldierBladeProblem.webp
#34
SD2SNES is nice, the problem is that even though it emulates the special chips, they aren't really emulated correctly.  Like CX4, with megaman x2/X3, there is a lot of in-game lag that shouldn't be there just when doing charged shots when there are 2 or more enemies on screen.  

The best thing about it, is no having to hold reset or anything to save your SRAM.   Also loading roms is far faster than the super everdrive and SNES powerpak.  SuperFX could be added by the end of the year (minimal) and is being worked on.  Personally I'd rather see SA-1 implemented but it doesn't look possible as it's more powerful than the superFX and more complicated.
#35
Yes retrogate is definitely his storefront.  I've ordered a Everdrive 64, SD2SNES and a turbo everdrive from there and each time I've contacted that store, Krikkz himself replied.
#36
Add $50-$70 to the bare board.  Or you could just order here like a sane person:

krikzz.com/our-products/cartridges/turbo-everdrive-v2.html
#37
It'd be pretty sweet if you could actually replicate an actual hucard shell and place it in that.  I bought a crap keith courage hucard just to see if I could and realized it wasn't possible =/
#38
Ya, stone age gamer just adds a bunch of useless fluff (like a plastic case, paints the cartridge) and adds $50-$70 to the price.  If you buy PCB only you still pay $5-$10 more at stone age.  Avoid that place for flashcarts.  They do occasionally get good deals on console clones however, if you're into that sort of thing.

But yes, avoid for flashcarts.

QuotePretty long wait for something so simple. Glad I did my own
Ya, I love how stoneagegamer used terms like "prototyping" a small piece of plastic that isn't even an odd shape with 2 half circles cut out, held in by screws...lol

Probably just took it to a local fabricator.
#39
I'd like to enter, why not :).
#40
Received my replacement, works great!  Thank you very much for your great service!
#42
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Raffle: Cadash!
10/23/2012, 06:18 PM
I'm in!  Love this game.
#43
Hi, I'll take it :)
#44
There's a tg16 tech chatroom on irc?  What server/channel?
#45
You mentioned D5 or something like that, I don't see anything labeled D5 steve.
#46
Sure, please pm your info.  I received it back from you and it worked for about 2 days then it went back to not erasing.  I felt like playing neutopia today and tried to use it and it was not erasing again =/.
#47
Any other pics of this?  I'll definitely do this mod but not if it turns out like thesteve's screenshot haha, way too much green.
#48
I'm having issues with mine not erasing the flash when writing a new rom again.  In fact, it was never really fixed after you sent it back.  Any ideas what to do? =/
#49
I can definitely vouch for TheSteve being a trusted person.  He fixed my sound issue on my Duo.  Great guy!
#50
Ya, I saw that when I went to replace mine.  But then I noticed they are from China, and really didn't wanna trust the quality of capacitors they're getting.  Besides, for $2 more I got all hi temp caps from digikey so I had piece of mind and knew they were from a good brand, not cheap Chinese junk (not saying that's what it is, but it may be).

Shout outs to thesteve for fixing my sound issue, fixed it the day it arrived at his door.  Thanks!