- Welcome to PCEngine-FX.com. Please log in.
 |
PC-FX Localization for Team Innocent is released, a pre-Christmas gift!! In a twist, it feels like the NEC PC-FX got more attention in 2024 than any other time I can remember! Caveat: The localizers consider the "v0.9" patch a BETA as it still faces technical hurdles to eventually subtitle the FMV scenes, but they consider it very much playable. |
12/23/2024: Localization News - Team InnocentRecent posts
#1
Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread
Last post by NightWolve - 03/30/2026, 02:23 PMAdol from the Ys series enters the recent DLSS 5 off/on debate... 
#2
Console Repair/Mod Center / PC Engine (white) still has co...
Last post by elartur77 - 03/14/2026, 03:01 AM
Hello, I got this unit that has corrupted graphics, and replace both memory chips, doublechecked all the connections with multimeter and everything seems fine but still has corrupted graphics, so maybe the problem wasn't the memory chips, so what else I should look for. Thanks.
#3
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 03/11/2026, 08:22 PM
I talked to a friend about the usb-c pd and he had different luck with different boards. Apparently you have to buy a bunch and get one that works properly (he bought them on ali express). For me it just worked and now I'm considering make a 3D printed box for it and then get a transistor so it only outputs when the target voltage is reached, lets see how this goes. I'm also working on a wireless controller pcb (based on a rpi-pico + nrf24l01) so I'll keep you guys updated (I dislike the 8bitdo pce controller and prefer the original)
#4
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by NightWolve - 03/11/2026, 06:54 PM
Quote from: rfernov111 on 03/07/2026, 11:05 AMIn the meanwhile..Have you guys ever used a usb-c converter board to power your pc engine duo? I'm thinking about trying a circuit like this https://hackaday.io/project/187112-ch224k-usb-pd-decoy to get rid of the noise I get from my cheap PSU (my original one doesn't output a safe voltage anymore). I would love to know and maybe design a new board to replace the one the duo uses since its very easy to replaceYeah, I tried to convert my SNES to USB 5VDC, but it was pretty bad. I didn't understand about the noise in modern PSUs, so there were weird artifacts in the video... I had no luck with that idea!
Interestingly, I just fixed an internal Pioneer CD/DVD reader (made in 2000) where the laser body and pole were stuck tight together, it couldn't slide at all! Got cooked, the grease was dried up, really bad! I had to grab the end of the pole after unscrewing it and twist it with a pair of pliers using a lot of pressure! Once it got slightly free, I'd spin/twist it back'n'forth, and then applied the fresh grease after cleaning with auto brake cleaner! It works again!
The tray mechanism is garbage though, can't be saved; some plastic parts holding the springs broke, so I had to throw it away. I'm just using it for development/testing of the new TurboRip version due to be released soon that finally supports INDEX 2-99/PREGAP scanning, so accurate CUE files/ripping for 100% NEC/PCE/PCFX discs, and it'll have BIN/CUE <> ISO/WAV/CUE conversion built in!
#5
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 03/11/2026, 06:25 PM
Ok, the grease arrived (not the lithium one though but the manufacturer told me this one just works - Implastec IGM 200). I cleaned all the plastic cogs and applied grease on the laser rails, the plastic cog and the motor plastic thingy. It didn't change a thing 
I then took the laser out and did as Steve said: hold the base with a plier and then attempted to rotate the pot. It worked. I rotated the pot all the way CW and then rotated it slightly CCW. I tried again and it worked! Ys now reads flawlessly as well as every soundtrack on Rondo of Blood. I can't thank you guys enough
for anyone seeing this thread in the future, what helped me:
- Cleaning all the leaked capacitor fluid on the board. I spent lots of cotton swabs and Isopropyl alcohol to do that. Cleaned until my cotton swabs ended up clean.
- Redid the solder on a bunch of capacitors and tried to put them in a comfortable not-forcing position (most of them were pulling the pads of the board upwards)
- Used this board PCB (https://github.com/Board-Folk/PC-Engine-Duo) to check where the traces of everything led and redid the soldering points on loose capacitor that had their pads broken (using AWG 28)
- Adjusted the pots using a oscilloscope. First using an original disk and then using CDRs (Verbatim Digital Vinyl AZO)
- Cleaned the CD cogs and rails with Isopropyl and then put a new grease there (I couldn't buy lithium grease here but I bought a "mechanism grease" [Implastec IGM 200] [https://en.implastec.com.br/product/igm-200-graxa-branca-para-mecanismo]
- Broke the glue of the laser potentiometer as Steve said (hold the base with pliers and then rotate it slowly until it breaks free). Then I rotated the potentiometer CW until the end and rotated it CCW just a little (until it started reading my disks).
- My shitty PSU wasn't giving me enough current and was generating LOTS of noise so I tested a USB-C PD decoy that generates 9V/3A and it worked flawlessly. BE CAREFUL though as those will transfer 5V initially until the handshake can adjust to the proper voltage.
- Profit!
I then took the laser out and did as Steve said: hold the base with a plier and then attempted to rotate the pot. It worked. I rotated the pot all the way CW and then rotated it slightly CCW. I tried again and it worked! Ys now reads flawlessly as well as every soundtrack on Rondo of Blood. I can't thank you guys enough
for anyone seeing this thread in the future, what helped me:
- Cleaning all the leaked capacitor fluid on the board. I spent lots of cotton swabs and Isopropyl alcohol to do that. Cleaned until my cotton swabs ended up clean.
- Redid the solder on a bunch of capacitors and tried to put them in a comfortable not-forcing position (most of them were pulling the pads of the board upwards)
- Used this board PCB (https://github.com/Board-Folk/PC-Engine-Duo) to check where the traces of everything led and redid the soldering points on loose capacitor that had their pads broken (using AWG 28)
- Adjusted the pots using a oscilloscope. First using an original disk and then using CDRs (Verbatim Digital Vinyl AZO)
- Cleaned the CD cogs and rails with Isopropyl and then put a new grease there (I couldn't buy lithium grease here but I bought a "mechanism grease" [Implastec IGM 200] [https://en.implastec.com.br/product/igm-200-graxa-branca-para-mecanismo]
- Broke the glue of the laser potentiometer as Steve said (hold the base with pliers and then rotate it slowly until it breaks free). Then I rotated the potentiometer CW until the end and rotated it CCW just a little (until it started reading my disks).
- My shitty PSU wasn't giving me enough current and was generating LOTS of noise so I tested a USB-C PD decoy that generates 9V/3A and it worked flawlessly. BE CAREFUL though as those will transfer 5V initially until the handshake can adjust to the proper voltage.
- Profit!
#6
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 03/07/2026, 11:05 AM
Thanks Steve, I'll try it out when the parts arrive (taking forever, even the grease)....In the meanwhile..Have you guys ever used a usb-c converter board to power your pc engine duo? I'm thinking about trying a circuit like this https://hackaday.io/project/187112-ch224k-usb-pd-decoy to get rid of the noise I get from my cheap PSU (my original one doesn't output a safe voltage anymore). I would love to know and maybe design a new board to replace the one the duo uses since its very easy to replace
Edit: I'm wondering if the 5V that is given initially by the cable will somewhat disrupt the pce but I dont think so (5V is too low for it?)
Edit2: One friend of mine had one of those boards so I borrowed it (ZY12PDN). It works flawlessly (set to 9V) in my duo and all my noise artifacts are completely gone. I waited until the led on the board got yellow before plugging (that means 9V) and also measured with a multimeter.
Edit: I'm wondering if the 5V that is given initially by the cable will somewhat disrupt the pce but I dont think so (5V is too low for it?)
Edit2: One friend of mine had one of those boards so I borrowed it (ZY12PDN). It works flawlessly (set to 9V) in my duo and all my noise artifacts are completely gone. I waited until the led on the board got yellow before plugging (that means 9V) and also measured with a multimeter.
#7
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by thesteve - 02/28/2026, 02:08 AM
I break them loose by holding the body of the pot with small pliers and turning the knob
If you just turn it without support, you could damage the legs or board
If you just turn it without support, you could damage the legs or board
#8
Localizations, Games, Apps, Docs / Popful Mail Localization Proje...
Last post by NightWolve - 02/25/2026, 09:49 PM #9
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 02/25/2026, 09:41 AM
@steve, how did you remove the glue? Hot air? Or you indeed turned it until it broke?
@Keith: Yes, using CDRs (original discs read flawlessly). I'm burning everything using my external usb drive (also tried with 2 SATA drivers [one of them a lightscribe capable] - makes no diff) and using Verbatim AZO. I've tried a cheap local brand and the duo ignored it completely.
I was able to play rondo of blood from beginning to end yesterday and also go through the sound test and play all the tracks successfully. Now when I try to play Ys (I checked the dump hashes) the drive always go out of track when talking to the lady at the dungeon (first dungeon, after you get the key). I'm waiting for the grease delivery so I can try that but I'll see if I can use other media in the meanwhile. Thanks
@Keith: Yes, using CDRs (original discs read flawlessly). I'm burning everything using my external usb drive (also tried with 2 SATA drivers [one of them a lightscribe capable] - makes no diff) and using Verbatim AZO. I've tried a cheap local brand and the duo ignored it completely.
I was able to play rondo of blood from beginning to end yesterday and also go through the sound test and play all the tracks successfully. Now when I try to play Ys (I checked the dump hashes) the drive always go out of track when talking to the lady at the dungeon (first dungeon, after you get the key). I'm waiting for the grease delivery so I can try that but I'll see if I can use other media in the meanwhile. Thanks
#10
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by Keith Courage - 02/24/2026, 10:16 PM
I see from your Short video that you are using CDR discs. Your audio dropping out can possibly be fixed by regreasing the lens rails and also by slightly raising the lens gain potentiometer on the lens itself. If that doesn't work, then continue reading for info on using CDR discs that I've posted in forums before.
I've learned from years of working on DUOs that not all DUOs like the same types/Brands of CDR discs.
I've worked on many that only work good with the cheaper typical light green bottom Verbatim CDRs, but I've also worked on just as many that only work good with slightly Higher quality CDrs like Verbatim Datalife plus discs. 94755 to be exact as they use darker (bluish) Azo Dye. There have also been many situations where changing out the lens or making lens adjustments makes no difference as to what kinds of CDRs work good but in some cases it does help.
I have also found that the model of CDRW/DVDRW drive plays a big part depending on what kind of CDR media you are using as to how good the quality of the burn turns out. Meaning, say I have a DUO that only works good with cheaper Verbatim CDrs. I could burn the same type of disc in two different CDRW drives only to have one burn that barely works and the other works perfect. But then the opposite could exist for the AZO dye discs. Meaning the CDRW drive that made the junk burn for the cheaper CDR discs, ends up working better for the AZO dye discs. So it's really a lot of trial an error.
Don't go out of your way to find an older drive that burns slower. If the slowest your drive will go is 12X, well then that can be good enough as long as the CDRW drive is good quality. I typically use older drives only because I have a bunch of used ones laying around from Old PCs I have recycled for customers over the years. I usually burn at 8X speed with them.
So don't look for a specific CD burner. Just get one and give it a try.
You might want to try a different CD burning software. What are you using? Image burn? I find that depending on the CDRW/DVDRW I am using, I will sometimes have to use Nero or Alchohol 120% but sometimes Image burn is fine for other drives.
Also, make sure you are burning your discs using the .cue file and not the .iso or .bin itself. cue is the file to select to burn the disc.
I've learned from years of working on DUOs that not all DUOs like the same types/Brands of CDR discs.
I've worked on many that only work good with the cheaper typical light green bottom Verbatim CDRs, but I've also worked on just as many that only work good with slightly Higher quality CDrs like Verbatim Datalife plus discs. 94755 to be exact as they use darker (bluish) Azo Dye. There have also been many situations where changing out the lens or making lens adjustments makes no difference as to what kinds of CDRs work good but in some cases it does help.
I have also found that the model of CDRW/DVDRW drive plays a big part depending on what kind of CDR media you are using as to how good the quality of the burn turns out. Meaning, say I have a DUO that only works good with cheaper Verbatim CDrs. I could burn the same type of disc in two different CDRW drives only to have one burn that barely works and the other works perfect. But then the opposite could exist for the AZO dye discs. Meaning the CDRW drive that made the junk burn for the cheaper CDR discs, ends up working better for the AZO dye discs. So it's really a lot of trial an error.
Don't go out of your way to find an older drive that burns slower. If the slowest your drive will go is 12X, well then that can be good enough as long as the CDRW drive is good quality. I typically use older drives only because I have a bunch of used ones laying around from Old PCs I have recycled for customers over the years. I usually burn at 8X speed with them.
So don't look for a specific CD burner. Just get one and give it a try.
You might want to try a different CD burning software. What are you using? Image burn? I find that depending on the CDRW/DVDRW I am using, I will sometimes have to use Nero or Alchohol 120% but sometimes Image burn is fine for other drives.
Also, make sure you are burning your discs using the .cue file and not the .iso or .bin itself. cue is the file to select to burn the disc.