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soldering 101

Started by TH0R, 10/31/2008, 02:01 AM

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TH0R

where can i buy decent tools for soldering on these boards and stuff. also what type of glue is safe to use.

kid_rondeau

Radio Shack is where I got my first soldering iron...the advantage to RadShack is that they have a good selection of soldering irons, desoldering irons, picks, strippers, crimpers, and a bunch of other stuff that will make your job a lot easier. The disadvantages are that: A.) you'll pay an inflated retail price to get them (I like Radio Shack, but they jack up their prices quite shamelessly), and B.) the quality on SOME of the tools is questionable.

I'm sure you could also get a soldering iron at the Home Depot...just make sure you get a lower Wattage one (20-30W for normal electronics, 15W for delicate IC work).

As far as what "glue" is safe to use, I'll assume you mean soldering flux. You won't need to use flux unless you're trying to solder onto a surface that doesn't normally want to be soldered on. You won't need it for anything in the Turbo consoles.

And, as any soldering teacher will emphasize, DO NOT USE acid core solder on electronics. I don't even know where you'd buy it...probably at a hardware store...but you only want to be using ROSIN CORE solder.

Good luck mang. Patience pays with soldering, by the way.

TH0R

right on, thanks.
i was gonna mess around with some material( like the rgb amp stuff) to practice on first. there's a guide online that i'm looking at. i read on a couple different threads that its good to use glue on wire connections...

TH0R

should i get a 25w and a 15w gun? are these all the things i'll need here, soldering irons, desoldering irons, picks, strippers, crimpers... is it better to use silver solder for stronger contacts?

rolins

#4
I started out with a Radioshack 30/15w iron too. It was fine for padhacking and assembling arcade sticks. I don't particularly like the bulky rubber handle and the shaft is little long for my taste. When I wanted something better, I went for a Hakko Dash 15w iron. They're absolutely great soldering irons with a nice slender handle and shorter shaft. They're only $25 at Fry's Electronics whcih cost more than Radioshacks, but still inexpensive.

Their spool tip cleaner is also great, no need for a damp sponge. Just quickly jab the soldering tip into the spool and it cleans the tip. Never though about getting a desoldering gun w/ bulb. I always went for cheaper stuff, desoldering braid and solder suckers for me only.

Quote from: TH0R on 11/10/2008, 09:29 PMshould i get a 25w and a 15w gun? are these all the things i'll need here, soldering irons, desoldering irons, picks, strippers, crimpers... is it better to use silver solder for stronger contacts?
If you're projects limited to only console modding and padhacking, I 'd say the 15w will be best. A 25w will work just as well though. Yes, wire strippers is an important tool...crimpers? if your project requires it.

I never used silver solder before, is it more expensive? I always bought plain 60/40 rosin core with 0.22mm or 0.32mm diameter for all my projects.

TH0R

nice, i was looking for a 30/15 combo gun , which they didn't have, the clerk sugg. the silver solder from his knowledge of workin gwith pc boards, i dunno. i found a starter kit for  i'm gonna try out...has some b/s learn how to solder projects for my dorky ass to play with...hah, say ages 10 to adult  #-o can i use a 15w all the time, what's the 30w used on

Turbo D

When soldering, just remember to drink a beer and take it slow. :) I've burned myself many of times, haha. Patience will pay off. Oh ya, don't be too rough with your pcbs; they are delicate like your girlfriend.
Quote from: MissaFX on 01/06/2008, 12:10 PMMy idea of gaming is a couple of friends over, a couple of drinks, a couple of medical-handrolled-game-enhancing-cigs and a glowing box you all worship.
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kid_rondeau

TH0R,
silver solder seems unnecessary to me for the kind of work you'll be doing, but if you want it, it should work fine.
He's probably joking, but I can't endorse Turbo D's advice of drinking a beer before soldering...

I will say that I have burned myself a handful of times. It's basically inevitable that a n00b solderer will burn himself a few times. Just...if your iron falls off the table, TRY TO FIGHT THE URGE TO CATCH IT!!! Just let it fall!

TH0R

hah hah...oh man...hopefully the beer will numb my reflexes , thanks

Turbo D

I was just joking, but if you have shaky hands it might not be a bad idea. :wink:
Quote from: MissaFX on 01/06/2008, 12:10 PMMy idea of gaming is a couple of friends over, a couple of drinks, a couple of medical-handrolled-game-enhancing-cigs and a glowing box you all worship.
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Duo_R

Turbo D's advice is right on! You just take a few sips, but if you burn yourself be ready to shotgun the can!
Add my YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/sOg93QUtlg0
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TH0R

hmmm... first runs kinda sloppy, was pratice...seems that the solder sticks to the tip of my iron and doesn't drip off too well, didn't really like touching the board with the iron cause i could see condensation forming on it. how should this be done? using a 25 w iron...maybe the tip is too big or not getting hot enough?

kid_rondeau

#12
TH0R,
When your iron first gets got enough to actually melt the solder, you should slowly melt a short length (less than an inch) of solder directly on the tip. It will form a liquid ball on the tip of the iron.

Once you have this liquid ball, wipe it off on your wet sponge (or whatever you're using) to remove the excess. You should be left with a bright, shiny, silvery tip. This process is called "tinning" and is essential for good heat transfer.

While you're actually soldering, only then is it time to bring the iron to the board. Place the tip of the iron against the component lead you're trying to solder. Wait a few seconds. The idea is that you want to get the lead as hot as the iron itself.
Then, still holding the iron in place, touch the solder to the connection (but not directly to the iron) and it should melt freely.

The condensation you spoke of is unfamiliar to me, but it sounds like it could be some of the pine pitch contained in solder bubbling onto the board. It has a wet appearance.


Hope this helps.


EDIT:
The molten solder won't drip off of your iron unless you have a lot of it on there, which there is no good reason to, except that it looks cool. But the solder always follows the heat source, even against gravity.


Oh hey! I just found this cool British "how to solder" video on YouTube! I just watched the first few minutes, and it says and shows a lot more than I can through text...just, unless you're British, don't pronounce the "L" in solder!

TH0R

oh ok, i understand, i wasnt getting the surface hot enough. those videos are cool too i'm sure they'll be helpful