Bacteria's IntoGrafx modding project

[bacteria]

Taking on from my post in the discussion section HERE  there seemed an interest in me documenting my WIP on this site, so here is the thread! 

Also, no point covering old ground; details of this project to date are in the link above and via my website www.modded-by-bacteria.com . I have started a blog using WordPress which is far more suited to my needs than the website, so my intention is to leave the website alone, update the rest of my project here, then get to work on my blog site, prior to product announcement on the web. 

So, let's take it from here:

My case halves are made from vacuum formed 2mm thick Plasticard (Styrene). I spent literally hours on my case backing section sanding it totally smooth, the result was worth it. Used the original HUcard slot, hot glued in place and filled with putty, then fine crack Polyfiller; gave the case a through sanding. Small holes and slots are made via small files, which are indispensable for this type of project work.

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Once ready, I spent about 2 days spray painting the case backing with red spray paint - it took many, many coats before the grey of the cart slot and green of the putty became red. In this state, you have to be very careful handling the case as it picks up fingerprints really easily. The case was left for a full day to completely dry out, then a fairly think coating of Crystal varnish spray paint was applied, to seal the paint allowing for handling, although not enough to be "final". The reason for this is that if the surface is too shiny/varnished, decals don't stick or stay on. Fine balance.

Added decals, using clear waterslide paper. This material is quite expensive at about £3 a sheet of A4, but if you are careful and frugal, one sheet will last for several portables. You just print to it via your computer printer, let it dry, then coat with spray with varnish to stop the ink running when submerged in water. Once dried, cut the decals to size, put into water and when the thin clear plastic starts to separate from the white paper backing, just place the decal onto your case. You can still move the decal about for a short while, while it remains wet, then press on with a piece of tissue to set in place.

Then, two or three fairly thick coats more of the Crystal varnish spray paint applied to finish the job, and the case left then for a day to set hard.

Below are some pics of the final case shell, prior to installing the guts of the system. You will notice that I cut a slot above the HUcard slot to power the system on? There is enough space here for a small switch. It was a balance as to which way around to put some of the decals, my logic is that you see the decals on the side when the system is upside down, eg when inserting a game; however the recharging jack and headphone jack need to be the other way around as you use those when the case is face upwards.

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Hole for a home-made eight pole double throw switch, to select between American and Japanese games. The other holes are for a triple throw switch on each side for the three speed button settings.

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Logos; and headphone jack and recharging jack. The larger hole is just big enough for a headphone jack to protrude.

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Although I am using a PAL TurboGrafx, which outputs in composite as standard, the quality of composite is ok but not brilliant. I am going to use a Logic 3 PSone screen instead of an official PSone screen as the screen size is bigger and the image is even better; although the Logic 3 screen is only RGB input. Connecting RGB to the Logic 3 screen looks nice but the image scrolls, which means the signal needs to be amplified; in this case, just the C-Sync line. Interestingly, the official PSone screen (which I also tested) would need all four lines amplified as nothing shows on the screen apart from waviness.

To tap off the RGB:

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And to make the amplifier (assuming just the C-Sync amplifier is needed as the picture on the Logic 3 screen is good otherwise):

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[esteban]

Nice.

[spenoza]

Tres cool.

[Duo_R]

Looking very nice!

[bacteria]

Thanks guys, appreciated.

Found out why I am sick - got chicken pox - yes, I never had it before, had to wait until I was nearly 43 to get it    Will be doing some good modding this coming week though, but nothing up to my usual speed!

[esteban]

Thanks guys, appreciated.

Found out why I am sick - got chicken pox - yes, I never had it before, had to wait until I was nearly 43 to get it    Will be doing some good modding this coming week though, but nothing up to my usual speed!

I've heard Chicken Pox as an adult can be brutal. So, try to finish the IntoGrafx project before shuffling off this mortal coil.

[bacteria]

My head, face and neck are totally covered; my shoulders, chest and back are well covered too. Unusually and fortunately, my "pain threshold" as the nurse put it must be high as my pox aren't bothering me to scratch them; if I get any tingle sensations I can easily block them from my mind - will power: otherwise I would be in major agony!    I have two pox on my left hand that are a pain when I hold things or move my finger; and a large one on my right arm and inch from my wrist, which is annoying when I type - otherwise, "meh".

Anyway, will do more modding and post updates tomorrow - case backing is done, need to experiment with RGB mod, get board installed in case (meaning resoldering existing connections and re-applying them), mount batteries, etc. I also need to make the case front ready - get that made to size. I also need to get generic connections made to interact between two separated case halves - remember I mentioned about V2 major upgrade to my old Multi-Platform system??...

[bacteria]

Update: here is a pic showing the PAL Turbografx running Salamander (japanese) HUcard, via composite (right screen on wall) and also RGB via the Logic 3 PSone screen on the left, at the same time.

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These pics aren't great, sunny day shining on screens, etc; but good enough for illustration:

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Now, here's the funny thing. Unlike the official PSone screen with clearly doesn't amplify the RGB or C-sync enough so the image is useless without amplification from the Turbografx, the Logic 3 RGB only screen is fine for RGB but the C-sync wasn't right as the screen was scrolling slowly; so needed assistance with an external amplifier circuit. Not an issue, made one as per the diagram posted before - however, it doesn't need a 5v input - picture is stable and great without any voltage applied. As you see in the pic, I rigged up a 7805 to a 7.4v Li-ion cell to output 5.02v; however, if I try to use the 5v as directed, the screen gets half garbled.

Anyway, bottom line is it works, stable RGB image. 

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[bacteria]

Rats - tried some other games and the results were unstable. That rules out the Logic 3 screen unfortunately. All I can do is build the rest of the RGB circuit to run along with the C-Sync one I made and try that in a normal PSone screen. If that doesn't give good results, I have no option but to stay with the composite output from the system as default - not ideal, the red is a bit strong and the yellow a bit weak, but I may have no option. It isn't too bad frankly, just being a perfectionist!  No point having one game working fine if another doesn't, so these are my remaining options left.

[Nazi NecroPhile]

Very cool stuff.  Good luck getting the RGB working properly.

[bacteria]

Spent the day and got to the conclusion that either that circuit doesn't work or it doesn't work on PAL Turbografx models. The best I got was a stable picture on the Logic 3 screen but had a little interference. Adding the 5v still made no difference. In fact, when I tried it, the composite went screwy for a while, before being ok again. I was just relieved the composite came back ok.

Short and long of it is that I got a fairly decent picture with slightly better colours than the official PSone screen in composite mode but there was something up on the blue and luma lines; couldn't make a difference (nearly damaged something in the process); and stay with good old composite, red and blue colours a little strong however good resolution and stable image.

Looks like i'm going to have to go the composite route. I can't justify spending £100 on a PC-Engine system, which may or may not be better, when I have a working and trimmed system already. It's not like SNES or N64 units you can buy in the UK car boot sales for £3 each, when you can afford to ditch a few - these systems are hard to get hold of and expensive!

[Duo_R]

Don't go composite. I wired up a PS1 screen without an amp and the worst I noticed was I saw the vertical lines on bright color levels. . However, with an amp circuit, the lines are almost gone, and the picture looks amazing.


However, you stated the PS1 screen doesn't look good, this is my Duo hooked up via RGB without amp:

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https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=5733.0

Did u connect sync to pin 5 "S-Video Y" instead of 6 "sync"?

PS - pin 5 works best for NTSC too

After cutting the cable in half, discarding the male end and stripping the wires, it was a just case of finding the pin-outs for the screen and seeing which colour wires were required. Naturally the pin-outs are the same as a Playstation and according to this site, they are:

1 - Ground
2 - Audio right
3 - Ground
4 - Audio Left
5 - S Video Y (IMHO: "PAL SYNC" - SEE IMPORTANT NOTE)
6 - NTSC video / Composite Sync (IMHO:"N/C" - SEE IMPORTANT NOTE)
7 - S-video C
8 - Video Ground
9 - Blue
10 - 5 volts (PSone LCD screen sense line, screen powers up when 5V)
11 - Red
12 - Green

* IMPORTANT! Connecting the composite sync to pin 6 does not work in my experience, it should be connected to pin 5. Not sure why most sites say pin 6 is composite sync (perhaps the key means pin 6 is for NTSC period? I'm in PALsville here..)

http://www.retroleum.co.uk/psone_lcd.html

[bacteria]

I have spent two days pulling my hair out (what I have, going-baldy-git that I am!) about this. Wiring up RGB wires to RGB on a PSone monitor is bread and butter to me, yet all I was getting was occasional image, mostly scrolling or corrupt or just getting partial lines in the middle. The RGB site (pic I posted before, listed again, has an important ERROR on it. They are not all equal...

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All EXCEPT the PAL TurboGrafx. My system! The signals tapping off the HU6260 chip are too weak to even be amplified. I was thinking "how the hell did Duo_R get such a great result and I can't, doing the same thing?". I only had one brainwave left - the *wonderful* CXA1145P chip that encodes PAL/NTSC RGB into crappy composite output. Obviously it takes RGB in, but what other options do I get I wondered?

Found a PDF from this excellent site HERE and this schematic:

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Ok, I thought, how about tapping RGB and C-Sync off this instead? Pins 23, 22, 21 and 11. Nothing to lose trying, I thought.

Result - stable, lovely RGB picture which doesn't shudder, no lines, nothing. Better yellow, weaker blue and red; colours in other words look correct now, as they should. Only thing is the brightness on my PSone screen is turned to max and the light level is quite acceptable, but slightly brighter would have been nice.

Any ideas to make the image a little brighter? If not, that's fine, I have a great picture in RGB at last, which is what matters! 

This is the good thing about forums like this, I can share my discoveries and also others can share theirs to me.

I was getting to the end of my tether with this, my tenacity was keeping me seeking the solution. Pleased I found it, all be it from tapping from the CXA1145P chip and not the HU6260 chip...

[Duo_R]

try this:


http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,2845,1765358,00.asp

The white-LED mod will make the screen darker than with its original bulb. You can trick the screen to get brighter by bypassing a small component on the back of the board with a thin bit of wire as shown in Figure 4-31.

It's just above the center of the board, where you'll see 10 little surface-mounted components in a row. You want to bypass the third one from the left, labeled CV30. Since it makes the screen a lot brighter, perhaps too bright for some people's taste, I'd suggest bypassing the part instead of removing it, as you may wish to change it back. (It's your call.)

[Duo_R]

and the PAL turbos have a CXA chip???   

[Zeon]

I have not personally messed around with pal turbo-grafx hardware, but the general consensus on pce hardware in general is that you need to amp the  red green and blue lines. Otherwise the colors will be off as you noticed yourself with red being overdriven.

DO NOT PUT AN AMP ON THE COMPOSITE SYNC (not sync) line. When I did this, I got no picture, I removed the amp on the line and it worked just fine correct colors and all on my lcd tv.

Also note that the composite sync MUST be stripped via a sync stripper such as a LM1881. You will most likely not get a picture, or the picture will be very unstable, especially on a lcd. I am almost willing to bet this is your problem.

Duo might just have gotten lucky, or the signal's from the duo-r are stronger. Whatever the case is, try a sync stripper first. Personally, I use a sync cleaner that jrok makes (a very excellent one at that): http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html. They are $10 plus shipping, though I don't know if he ships internationally. An online shop that carries them might.

If this doesn't fix your problem, try removing the sony chip from the system. This way it should be nearly identical, parts wise, to a us turbo-grafx.

[Duo_R]

no sync stripper required with a PS1 LCD. The unit is very universal and not as picky as other RGB sources.

[Zeon]

no sync stripper required with a PS1 LCD. The unit is very universal and not as picky as other RGB sources.

I would still recommend it.

[Duo_R]

well if you are the type that likes to do extra work. Seriously it works fine without. 

no sync stripper required with a PS1 LCD. The unit is very universal and not as picky as other RGB sources.

I would still recommend it.

[Duo_R]

Also, since he has CXA chip, amping won't be necessary. That outputs RGB just fine. Bacteria already stated he isn't pulling from the Hu chip.

I have not personally messed around with pal turbo-grafx hardware, but the general consensus on pce hardware in general is that you need to amp the  red green and blue lines. Otherwise the colors will be off as you noticed yourself with red being overdriven.

[Zeon]

Also, since he has CXA chip, amping won't be necessary. That outputs RGB just fine. Bacteria already stated he isn't pulling from the Hu chip.

I have not personally messed around with pal turbo-grafx hardware, but the general consensus on pce hardware in general is that you need to amp the  red green and blue lines. Otherwise the colors will be off as you noticed yourself with red being overdriven.

Yet he has stated it won't sync, I would seriously try tapping it from the huc6260 itself, amp the rgb lines, and strip the sync to see if there is any improvement. Maybe the Sony chip introduces problems, who knows? My theory is if he taps from the huc6260 itself, it should work like any other pce hardware. He has a huc6260A correct? Iirc this is the exact same one in US and Japanese pce hardware.

[Duo_R]

Z I think you missed this:

Result - stable, lovely RGB picture which doesn't shudder, no lines, nothing. Better yellow, weaker blue and red; colours in other words look correct now, as they should. Only thing is the brightness on my PSone screen is turned to max and the light level is quite acceptable, but slightly brighter would have been nice.

He got a stable image off a CXA1145. I had no idea the PAL systems had a CXA chip in it.

[Zeon]

Z I think you missed this:

Result - stable, lovely RGB picture which doesn't shudder, no lines, nothing. Better yellow, weaker blue and red; colours in other words look correct now, as they should. Only thing is the brightness on my PSone screen is turned to max and the light level is quite acceptable, but slightly brighter would have been nice.

He got a stable image off a CXA1145. I had no idea the PAL systems had a CXA chip in it.

Haha, more like misread  Thanks for pointing that out duo.

[bacteria]

Yeah, tried originally to get the RGB and C-Sync from the HU6260 chip as per the guide, but on my Logic 3 screen I got the colours nicely but the screen rolled; putting in the amp make the image work on one of the games ok ish, but not on the others - had picture 3/4 on 1/4 off; or juttery or unstable. With amp powered, completely unstable. On the PSone screen, nothing, whatever I did.

Taking then RGB and C-Sync signals off the CXA1145P chip, I get clear crisp and stable image, looks excellent. Back to using the official Sony PSone screen again, as the TruboGrafx seems to prefer the 320x240 resolution of the official PSone screen - for example in Gradius (jap) the powerups are enclosed in a full bubble and the powerup text is shown properly without some text missing (the official Sony PSone screens are great).

Bypassing the capacitor on the PSone board for an LED mod is fine, however I understand it stops making the screen brightness adjustable and also makes the image washed out. I may just have to stay as I am; at least the image looks really nice and stable now and at full brightness setting, the screen looks fine. This is what matters after all.

Here is the chip rigged. Not taking the signals off the HU6260 chip; although I am tempted to see if I add the RGB wires from that chip and join them to the RGB outputs from the CXA chip if that makes any difference to the brightness or not. Not had any luck with the amp circuit yet after all.

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I rather get the impression from you guys that taking the signals from the HU6260 chip gives rather haphazard results - having the CXA chip in there seems therefore to be a positive thing - might be designed to give composite PAL output, however, as I have learnt, it has the benefit of also cleaning the C-Sync line and outputting a better RGB line too. I see this as being actually a good reason to get a PAL TurboGrafx after all! 

[bacteria]

Update time.

Desoldered all the game slot pins so I could work on the case backing more, and re-wire the wires so they are neat and fit better. Each wire is labeled so they can be re-attached, and *hopefully* work again.

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The on/off switch is glued in place and 3 amp wires soldered to two of the terminals. These wires are then glued in place and ready for when needed.

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The 8 pole double throw switch I made a while back is hot glued in place. I covered the switch top with a piece of black cloth to make it look nice.

Cart slot is screwed down into its posts.

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Game cart inserted.

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Here is what the switch looks like, external view:

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The charging jack to recharge the batteries in the portable is added (yellow jack) and the headphone jack (green jack) added.

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More updates to follow tomorrow...

[bacteria]

I had taken extra care labeling the 38 wires as any errors would be disaster - no way to trace back a problem. I also spent ages checking each wire was connected properly and no shorts when attaching back to game port. I was still convinced I would have to spend the rest of the day testing a wire here and there as the wires are fairly long, and before I had issues with some of them.

However... turned system on - success!  O:)

Wired section - lots more to do yet - batteries, controller; make it all fit, etc.

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And a side shot showing a game working on my testing screen:

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More after lunch...

[bacteria]

Just a few updates to report.

Cut out the case top, gave it a thorough sanding so both case halves meet.

Then, change of mind - decided not to make a version 2 multi-platform system after all; would have had major issues fitting in batteries, system would be too thick, buttons too generic and too many on front, over-cramming. Would be hard in such a small space and the ends don't justify the means. Going to keep each system separate, as is the norm anyway - means I only need a D-pad and two buttons for the controls; (the speed switches are on the case backing), select and run buttons and the screen controls - that is it.

This meant re-planning how the guts of the system will be mounted and the looks of the system a bit.

No great shakes, just slowed down the project for a while whilst I made some decisions, which are now made.

I can easily fit in four Li-ions, giving a total of 4.4 amps at 7.4v. I know the PSone screen uses between 750 and 800 mA whilst running, used my multimeter just now and concluded the TurboGrafx seems to take about 500 - 550 mA. This means a total of about 1.3 amps draw, so 4.4 amps should give about 3 hours 20 mins playtime between recharges, which is quite reasonable frankly. I could put in more cells, maybe, but that would also increase the overall system weight. There are always compromises when making portable handheld systems - it is hard enough to try and get buttons placed properly and make them feel nice to use, let alone overall weight considerations and even weight distribution: all in a small casing...

Back to re-planning, and minor adjustments in design! 

I have hot glued the wires to the game cart slot so I can get to the sides of the case backing to install batteries.

Tomorrow I will get the batteries installed, hopefully get the insides complete, then I can make a start on the case front section.

[bacteria]

Ok, to get the PSone screen brighter, hailrazer posted on BenHeck a while back how to remove the anti-glare layer from the screen, so I just did it - posting my pics:

Screen as it was, a bit mucky (this was a spare screen BTW).

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Remove the metal shielding from the screen sides.

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Placed it onto a CD case so the ribbon cable doesn't get damaged.

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Layered 6 sheets of two-ply toilet paper on top.

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Wet the paper under a slow-running tap, put a piece of card on top to ensure tissue paper keeps contact with the screen well.

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Put a couple of weights on top - had some old VHS tapes, fine - could have used a book, whatever.

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Applied more water after a couple of hours to stop the tissue from drying at all.

After 4.5 hours, removed the weights and card.

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Lifted off the toilet paper.

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Then gently lift off a corner of the plastic anti-glare sheet. If there is any resistance, then stop as you are lifting the polarize layer which will destroy your screen. The anti-glare layer is a thin and flexible piece of plastic sheeting, on top of the polarizer layer. I had to try all four corners before I could easily lift off the anti-glare layer. Once you have a corner, use some pliers and carefully, and evenly, lift off the whole sheet.

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And this is what you get, after giving the surface a through dry with a spectacles cloth (or cotton cloth) - you don't want any moisture. Once finished, place the screen onto the white light block and pop the grounding metal covering back on.

The colours are supposed to be brighter, better colours, less pixilated image; ie better!

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In this pic, you see the removed anti-glare sheet.

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[Nazi NecroPhile]

Placed it onto a CD TurboChip case so the ribbon cable doesn't get damaged.

You didn't do the label any favors by wetting it down.  For shame! 

[bacteria]

Ha, yes, I know! Nevermind!

Look at my sig, just got my new site up - have a look, let me know what you think and your comments! 

[bacteria]

Spent quite a few days getting my Wordpress site up and guides done, so been away from this project for a little while, sorry about that!

I have only two spaces in the case for batteries - on either side of the cart slot. I could relocate some of the capacitors, but don't need to. I just bent back the fuse, diode and capacitors a bit, that seems to have made enough space. One of the two sets of two cells needs to go as per the pic below.

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If I place the cells in the wrong place, then they won't fit, so to help with that, I stuck a strip of sticky foam pads (1mm thick) to the back of the batteries, put on top of the board and placed the case base on top, which left the cells in their final position. Although they are in place, and being wired, I won't hot glue the cells in place until I am happy the system will shut right.

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When wiring up to a protection circuit and soldering to joints, the protection circuit can cut out power, so don't be concerned if you get zero volts. When the charger is wired up, charge the cells for a few seconds, this resets the protection circuit and allows for voltage to output as normal.

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Update - system is running now off the internal batteries; the single pole double throw on/off switch is fine - thought it should be, only has to carry about .55 amps after all for the system and about 0.7 amps - 0.8 amps for the screen, when connected.

[bacteria]

A few updates, not big, but here anyway.

Wired up the audio jack and the two turbo switches, then covered with electrical tape to prevent shorts.

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Pic showing it running. I put some paper around the system to maintain some pressure on the components to make sure all was fine - best not to use tape around a case as there is a chance that when removed it will strip off some of the paint in the process. Game is Gradius (Jap) on the screen.

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I will get it lower than this, just over the top/nearly level with the top. Unavoidable as the height of the cart slot is quite chunky, I have no manouver on the board positioning as it is tight as it is, the wiring and capacitors, etc. The system will probably end up about 55mm thick or so, which is absolutely fine and comfortable to use; however, I might have to add a little Polyfiller to the case top to make it fit against the case base, as I had to make the case base as tall as possible, which means the case top might be slimmer than normal so need fattening up a bit - not sure yet though.

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As mentioned, I will get it lower than in the pic, then hot glue it down a bit. I will have to be creative in design to screw the two case halves together as I can't use screw posts like before - I have ideas though.

As you see, there is a lot of wiring to contend with. The case front not only has to have the controls and screen and board but also the controller board and mini board too. I know it can be done, but it won't be easy.

[bacteria]

Been a while - time for an update. Not a biggie, but progress is slow.

Put the case top on top of system, so I can get the edges to meet as closely to the case base as I can make it. The case base is slightly taller than originally planned, so the case top also needs to be a little thicker too; that means I need to build up the lid a little, which I don't normally need to do. To fill the sides, I will use some polyfiller, apply, sand, apply, sand, etc.

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Meets pretty well - obviously the two case halves are not pressed together here!

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The lip

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The Polyfiller

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Before...

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During...

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Looks a bit rough here - Polyfiller is really easy to sand, leaves a smooth surface, and can be sealed with AVA glue if needed to be rock hard.

After...

(next update)....

[bacteria]

Small update, but positive.

Finished sanding the sides, after building it up a little, looks a bit crude in pic but actually quite smooth. Before I spray paint, I will get the edges nice and rounded though. What matters is it is smooth as the filler won't show anyway. Polyfiller (fine crack stuff) can be easily scraped off, so used AVA glue to seal it, and also fill in some of the pits in the pic too - hence feels smooth, doesn't look it.

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Using this controller, from a CD plug and play system, as the buttons are nice and prominent and feel nice to use. I will paint them black in due course.

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Nice small board and easy to solder to traces:

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Crudely cut out some of the holes in the case front - screen, d-pad and 2 button controls. I need to finish them off with lots of careful filing and dremeling of course, and also make holes for the volume control, start and select buttons too. It will take probably 3-4 hours to complete this before I can start spray painting and varnishing, before assembly can start inside the case front.

Just a WIP pic

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[spenoza]

Looks like things are coming along nicely.

[bacteria]

This took about 3 days work to get to this stage. Needs speaker holes and the button holes need smoothing; but the case is beautifully smooth.

Taken delivery of my CoreGrafx and the Tennokoe2 unit, not opened them up yet. I am curious about the size of these beauties!

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[blueraven]

Well done. 

[bacteria]

Just to let you guys know, I am updating my WIP guide on a fairly new forum I am a member on - well, an Admin on to be more precise (no point having the WIP on two sites). The BenHeck forum has lost a lot of quality members over the last couple of years and there is discontent from many there, so some are migrating over to the ModRetro forum. This forum has only been up for a matter of weeks but is quite a hive of activity, and will be increasing membership quite dramatically over the next couple of months once it gets publicity, especially from completed portables.

Come over, have a look, please register and start posting! (The ModRetro forum site is  HERE  My project is in "Other systems".

[esteban]

Good to see things have been steadily progressing since I was here last, many moons ago.

[MotherGunner]

Sorry if I misread, but are you putting in turbo buttons?

[bacteria]

I have included a three way mini switch for the turbo feature - one for "I" and one for "II". They are situated to either side of the region game switch at the top of the system.

Project is near completion now, as you may have seen on ModRetro. There is also a low voltage LED circuit in the system too, which I rather like!

[bacteria]

Done!


Here are some pics of the completed system, complete with a video:

Final weight: a mere 750g.

Dimensions: 215 x 135 x 55mm

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All details in the video:

The worklog WIP for the system is HERE

The full worklog is on my Wordpress site, along with other tutorials, please have a look! This project (IntoGrafx) and previous one (IntoPlay) are on two sections - finished project and how-to guides on my site. That is to keep sections separate for modding the console system and also making the portable.


Please note - the Wordpress site has a limit of 35 users on at any one time, so if the site is busy, please try again in a few minutes!

[jperryss]

Slick!   I like it.

[Nazi NecroPhile]

Quite nice, that.  Congratulations for a job well done. 

[esteban]

Well, that looks damn fine.

It was hard to sit until 1:20, though, because I just wanted to see the gameplay footage

[majors]

Awesome.

[bacteria]

Thanks for the comments guys, appreciated!

[blueraven]

You deserve it! This is a truly amazing piece of machinery!