Images

[Off-Topic / The “What-Did-You-Buy-Today?” Thread]

Bought this a while ago from Japan, they arrived today:

one controller was listed as flaky, replaced the internal with spare from "part" controller I kept around and now I have 4 working controllers plus a mouse.  (8 total controllers... where did I put my 5 players adapter?)

[PC-FX Discussion / Spotted a BC-FX for 5500 yen...]

Dunno if anyone knows this. Now and then in various Anime I see consoles that are obviously based on real console but often with intentionally misspelled name or completely different name. Today I caught the elusive PC-FX console (intentionally named as BC-FX) in an anime:

and get this: only 5500 yen.  That shop is rather expensive it seems considering I see a few boxed PC-FX sell for about $100 each.

Anime Asobi ni iku yo!  (English title Fill In)

12 episodes plus OVA, it's about alien race who looks like human with cat ear and tail coming to Earth and becoming friend with a boy and ends up getting chased by sci-fi fanatics and government agencies while the cat race negotiate for connection with Earth simply because Japanese food are all great tasting!  Comedy, boobies galore, and probably worth watching if you can get them.

[Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread]

Cloudy with a chance of Microsoft bullshit:

[Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread]

I believe there's a hard core Doraemon fan here?

[Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread]

Damn you Microsoft!

[Buy/Sell/Trade / [USA] Turbografx CD in box, quite complete and works]

SOLD!!!

Since getting Duo-R, this one hasn't been used and I am more of player than collector so this set and the nice looking box should go to someone who will appreciate it and be able to show it off.

I am the original owner, bought this new from Toys R Us when they were on sale when NEC dropped TG-16 and CD system in favor of Duo. The serial number on the box did not match so it was switched or mixed up somewhere before I got it.

Last year shortly before I got Duo-R I had to take apart the CD system for stuck laser. Cleaned the rail and put on fresh white lithium grease. I also drilled out the middle gear oh about 1/32" bigger so it'd be less likely to seize and jam or crack.  Both drive and dock has not been recapped! They still worked when I retired it and all you need is a working TG-16 unit. 

PCE does not fit because of the Hucard hump on top is too tall but with adapter or mod (mod removing the top of the console shell, cut the side of EXT port to fit), one can use PCE and Coregrafx in it. Supergrafx too although you will probably need that hard to find extension dock.


(full size) https://i.imgur.com/IJ20Ezj.jpg
Image of CD and deck + system card in hard case (originally for PCMCIA) with my forum ID and date

(full size) https://i.imgur.com/YYfpr9Q.jpg
Box with my forum ID and date

More pictures:
https://i.imgur.com/BFyhne5.jpg  whole box front, a few dings and corners.  Mostly how I got it.  Since it was kept in the attic for most of those 25+ years, it didn't get much light exposure and the color is pretty good.
https://i.imgur.com/MMX4YpU.jpg whole box back side
https://i.imgur.com/nYAywUS.jpg one side of the box
https://i.imgur.com/jfOJOID.jpg other side of the box
https://i.imgur.com/WCNKY6t.jpg set of styrofoam blocks for CD case plus wraps
https://i.imgur.com/egutoEJ.jpg another styrofoam block for top part of the box, holds CD box, power supply, and AV cable.  There is cord melt in one of the compartment:
https://i.imgur.com/7uYEYe3.jpg because I left the AV cable and never knew about the "cord melt" issue
https://i.imgur.com/Bagz0ca.jpg styrofoam from inside CD box
https://i.imgur.com/A3fnZmr.jpg instruction manual and brochure. I know the warranty registration is gone, they were mailed away. There may be other paperwork missing as well
https://i.imgur.com/OlnBaNS.jpg CD case. both latches still on and intact
https://i.imgur.com/Aj2DipD.jpg inside the case with CD dock
https://i.imgur.com/Vj6LgeH.jpg CD and dock serial number. It matches!
Need more? Ask for more picture please.

Not pictured but original AC adapter and AV cable are included.  I am quite sure the AV cable are the same one that came included originally considering it was left in the box for the last 25 years!

I prefer to keep this as a set, but will consider separating the CD system and box if there's no interested party after a while.  As it's huge and over 11 pounds without packing material or shipping box international shipping is not recommended.  Shipping within USA can run from about $14 (inside Michigan) to $65 west coast.  Alaska and Hawaii can expect very high shipping as well   If you are in Michigan I can meet you in some area (about 1 hour drive from Flint area) to save on shipping

I have no idea what to price this at so I'll take reasonable offer. Forum rule I think requires I put a price anyway so I will list this for 1 million dollars 

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Looking For- NtscU TurboDuo recapped w/ regionfree, component video&jailbar mods]

I still want to know what a jailbar mod is. I am perplexed.

Installing this:

[Off-Topic / Re: Donald Trump Thread aka End of Days]

She looks like that "Two Weeks" woman from Total Recall:

[Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread]

yes shopped (text seems too even on the side) but still truth...

[Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Crack house Turbografx 16]

[Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread]

Is that called a half-moon cut?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: BRAM upgrade hack]

New boards came in today and I got it done



The button top are only temporary as the ones I wanted to use hasn't shown up. It looks so much neater than my proto board

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / what is this?]

Seller listed it as Develo Box, PC Engine development environment kit

Looks like it uses controller port and has 3 more ports on the box.

PDF Scan of PCE Develo Assembler Book:
https://www.pcengine-fx.com/downloads/Develo_Book_Assembler_nec_pc_engine.pdf

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Can it be done? save RAM inside TE?]

In the meanwhile after making a custom pad for HuC6201, it seems no one made a 13x19 SOIC pad that I can use.  I have made a quick test board to see if all could fit:



Red area are the controller PCB supports (rough approximate, a 12" long (30cm) caliper that's over 30 years old is not made for measuring small space), there is room for the whole thing but I may need to hack and split that 38 pin connector (solder on ribbon cable) into 2x 19 and offset it so the cable wouldn't get pinched somewhere between the new board and the cart connector end.

I am still playing with part positioning and traces to see what can work

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Can it be done? save RAM inside TE?]

Prelim schematic:

The pin number on connectors are for Hucard slot connectors. Since all of the required lines are at Hucard slot, it should be fairly easy to tap into the connector.

The 8 data lines correspond to TG-16 pinout and from the HuC6201 chip, 8 lines needs to be flipped (15 and 23, 16 and 22, 17 and 21, and 19 and 20) to work on PCEngine, LT, and GT.

Also LED is optional, I left it in as a status indicator but won't be present on final form.  Also I am going with FRAM so I don't need to deal with caps. FRAM doesn't come smaller than 32kx8 so there's 4 jumper pads to tie them to ground and lock them in specific 2k block for now. The jumper will allow me to add the switch mod I made in other thread for the board to be used in TG-16 and PCE/CGFx as there's room in those consoles.  TE and GT does not have much room.

FWIW this is not useful in Duo for obvious reason.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: BRAM upgrade hack]

Still don't have the final PCB but the proto I made shows it all works:



I put Neutopia in page 1, restarted, changed to page 2, played Neutopia 2 and put a save there. Then restarted, switched back to page 1 and loaded Neutopia, it loaded fine.  Next loaded bram checking program I downloaded to my turbo ED and it shows saves on both page 1 and 2.

My mod is working along with the LED display and buttons.  I'm going to wait for a neater looking board from OSH Park before I cut in my case for permanent install.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: BRAM upgrade hack]

Also been working on improving mine. Originally I was going with the hexidecimal switch but I decided to be a show off and have it display the current page on 7 segment LED and using  push buttons.  I am about half done.

Bottom with the new SRAM:


Ignore the extra yellow wire, I ripped up A6 line when I replaced the faulty SRAM with a new one. Tiny pads are not meant to be reheated so many times.


The heart of the new system.  I used an older PCB from a project I did about 3 years ago, I had about a dozen left and it was just fine for this project.  Green, blue, purple, and white on bottom right goes to the SRAM's address.  Brown, red, orange, and yellow is for the 2 buttons plus 5v to go with pullup resistor and ground for switch contact. The rest of wires on top left goes to dual 7-segment display.  The color code is for other project and didn't apply to this one.

2 corners are held by hot glue to keep it secure, easy removal if needed. On Duo-R the top side on this area is virtually empty so this would be fine.  On Black Duo, the original SRAM would be right under and this will also work with much shorter address wires.


Since I planned to mount the button switch and LED display on the top, I needed for a way to disconnect so I could remove the Duo-R's top completely.  I have a bunch of connectors laying around that I just used.

And the switch board I am going to run through OSH Park later:




This board is expecting a typical 0.56" LED display with horizontal pinout and the push button with about 0.4" by 0.3" spacing, about the size of larger PCB mounted push button that can have snap on button top.  Plus pin headers, the 6th pin of the 10 pin connector is not used and was intended to function as key with a filled in 6th hole on the connector.  I only had 9 pins cable connector, I thought I had 10 so I'll need to get a female socket (Dupont style), the pins are easily transferred.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: BRAM upgrade hack]

Code Select Expand

// unused pin: 0 and 1, 4, 13, and by removing DP pin, A3
// digital pin 0 and 1 are not used, these are usually used for communication
// with host and can be repurposed if more pins are needed.

#include "SevSeg.h"
int buttonup = 2;                    // pin to connect the button
int buttondn = 3;            // pin to connect the button
int presses = 0;                // variable to store number of presses
long time = 0;                    // used for debounce
long debounce = 200;                    // how many ms to "debounce"
const byte numPins = 4;                 // how many address, 5 for 64k and 6 for 128k
int state;                // used for HIGH or LOW
   // pins to connect leds
byte pins[] = {5, 6, 7, 8};             
int leddisplay = 1;                     // start LED display at 1
SevSeg sevseg;                          //Instantiate a seven segment controller object

void setup()
{
    /* we setup all pins as OUTPUT and start at LOW */
    for(int i = 0; i < numPins; i++) {
        pinMode(pins[i], OUTPUT);
                digitalWrite (pins[i], LOW);
    }
    pinMode(buttonup, INPUT);
    pinMode(buttondn, INPUT);
    /* use pin 2 and 3 which has interrupt 0 and 1 on Arduino UNO */
    attachInterrupt(0, countup, FALLING);
    attachInterrupt(1, countdn, FALLING);

      // setting up LED display
         byte numDigits = 2; // 2 digits for 16, 32, and 64 pages.
         byte digitPins[] = {A5, A4}; // equals to number of digits used,
         byte segmentPins[] = {9, 10, 11, 12, A0, A1, A2, A3}; // pin a, b, c, d, e, f, g, and DP
         // can probably leave out A3 DP and free a pin for one more LED display
         sevseg.begin(COMMON_ANODE, numDigits, digitPins, segmentPins); // change to cathode if used
         sevseg.setBrightness(90); // change to be brighter or dimmer
}
void loop()
{
    /* convert presses to binary and store it as a string */
    String binNumber = String(presses, BIN);
       
    if((0 <= presses)&&(presses <= 15)) {    // change to 31 or 63 for 64k and 128k
       
            digitalWrite(pins[0], (presses &        B1));
            digitalWrite(pins[1], (presses &       B10));
            digitalWrite(pins[2], (presses &      B100));
            digitalWrite(pins[3], (presses &     B1000));           
           
    } else {
                if (presses > 15) presses = 15;
                if (presses < 0) presses = 0; // change both lines from 15 to 31 for 64K, 63 for 128k
    }

    // display current page
    leddisplay = presses + 1 ;
    sevseg.setNumber(leddisplay, 0);
    sevseg.refreshDisplay(); // Must run repeatedly
}
/* function to count the presses */
void countup() {
    // we debounce the button and increase the presses
    if(millis() - time > debounce)    presses++;
    time = millis();
}

void countdn() {
    // we debounce the button and decrease  the presses
    if(millis() - time > debounce)    presses--;
    time = millis();
}
I went ahead and did a quick prototype and with a ghetto -seg LED made from regular LED, I can tell it is working.  5 pins left means I can do 3 display for 128, 256, and 512 pages.  Still it'd be overkill.

Pic:


(could be better but best I can do in 10 minutes plus my keyboard tray is about 20 years old so it is beyond ugly but still working)

The blue LED represents the individual element of the 7 segment LED (plus 2 for second digit). It is set to start at page one and end at 16. I could set it to roll over instead of stopping but I liked this way better.
The red LED represents the binary output for the SRAM address.

Video of it in operation:

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: BRAM upgrade hack]

Great!!  So the FRAM means no need to replace that tiny cap.  I mean 151 years is a fucking long time, someone would have cooked up something better like optical crystal that is pin compatible with legacy SRAM and has data retention in million years.

I ordered the 7 segment LED display and worked on Arduino to come up with something that can use 2 buttons for up and down, display current page, and control address lines.  It has enough pins to control up to 64 pages (6 address lines, 128kx8 SRAM)

ATMega328p costs around the same as getting a few chips like binary counter with up/down and 7 segment display driver but should take less wiring in the end. Plus the binary counter is only 4 bits, you'd need to cascade to get more address, and you'd need a lot of work to make the display show decimal (0-9) rather than hexidecimal (0-9 and A-F)

I am very much tempted to get 2x this:



It may be "more work" than a simple DIP switch or hexadecimal rotary/thumb switch but it'd look more elegant than a bunch of switches, and also a bit friendly with people who can't read or understand switch binary. Not to mention no one makes DIP switch big enough for the visually impaired.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: BRAM upgrade hack]

Wilykat what was the original Sram IC number?

LC3517B

I have ordered a Fram IC. Only a few in stock.

I think we need to add the pull up on WE.

Check to see if there's already a resistor on the original /WE line

Also I thought that as you were looking for an alternative to a switch a TTL counter like a 74HC393 would do with a de bounced push button. It could be enabled to switch only when the CE was high preventing corruption when switching.

That one only counts up.  There's a CMOS chip that can do binary count up and down.

Here's a few images to help:
original chip

/WE and VCC on original pad did not line up with new SRAM chip


A11 and A13 on the new chip is where /WE and VCC was so that's why I lifted those pins and added wire from the pad to the 2 pins.  Also I lifted the 4 topmost pins so they weren't touching the PCB to prevent accidental contact with something on PCB.

The pin for address A11, A12, A13, and A14 are then wired to switch or something that can hold high and low to select the pages.

I also found hi-res image of black Duo and the SRAM location is easier to access with a lot more room:

Yellow arrows point the location of SRAM (exact same chip size and type as Duo-R) and the backup cap.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: BRAM upgrade hack]

Solved, the upgrade hack works now.  On a hunch, I took the first SRAM chip out and put in another one (glad I ordered 3 in case of this) and it now works 100%.  The first chip was faulty somehow.

Now I need to clean up, get a proper switch, install it in the case, and close it.  I see a couple possibilities for the final switch design:
1: thumbswitch like this one:

2: wire up something like ATMega with 2 push button, LED display, and have it control address.  Like this memory card:


Advantage of one: smaller, neater, quicker, easier. Also cheap like this one: http://www.allspectrum.com/store/bcd-switch-hex-15-pushwheel-pen-push-type-plaimae-corporation-p-1320.html    Disadvantage, octal switch limited to 3 address (16k) and hexadecimal switch to 4 (32k). 

Advantage of two: can control single address up to however the size of ATMega I use (20 available pins on AT328p for example, -2 for button and -7 for LED = 11 controlled address pins to a multi-mega SRAM (if one beast exists)  Disadvantage: need to know how to program Arduino or other microcontroller or get someone to make code with specified number of address, need to cut out opening for LED readout and button.  More work, more bling, easier to read display.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: BRAM upgrade hack]

I worked on this to finish up.  Originally I was going to use hexadecimal thumb wheel (0-9 and A-F) but I can't find it at the moment and they aren't typically carried in most electronics store.  So I had to use backup plan:



old 8 position DIP switch with SIP resistors.  I was originally going to use this to build an Atari 2600 256-in-1 EPROM game (just about all of 2k and 4k games, no extra chip) many, many years ago but then someone made Harmony that could play more.  The switch assembly got left in spare parts drawer for oh about 10 years.


Finished work.  I used the 5v and ground pins of the nearby vreg chip since it was most convenient.

The BRAM seems to be working but I think I missed a solder because some of the pages doesn't work right.  It does save on working page setting so I'll have to take the board out and flip it to find out where I went wrong.

Still need to replace the stock cap.

[Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread]

Disney says this one is named FN-2199 which would put him in the same training class as Finn.  Unofficially internet called this one TR-8R. If you figured that out, give yourself a pat on your back.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / BRAM upgrade hack]

First the quick summary:
the original BRAM is only 2k which is not a lot.  Sega CD also had similar limitation but they did have RAM cart that can be used. Us poor people in USA never got easy to use English version like Tennokoe Bank card or something (plus we need converter) so we need to rely on guide and modded system.

Or one could replace the original 2K with something bigger.  Tennokoe2, TurboBooster Plus, CD system, and Duo all have standard SRAM which makes it easy to work with. No weird propriety shit.

However the systems were never designed to work with more than 2K of RAM so you need to manually control what "pages" the system is on to get around the 2k limit.

I have choosen 32k because: 16 pages is more than enough for many good games, because the DIP package used on Tennokoe2 and Turbobooster Plus is the narrow 300mill package, and SRAM over 32k is 600mil wide, which would require DIP adapter or a whole lot of wiring.  Duo and CD system used SOIC package which can go up to 1 megabit in same physical width.

The pinout are different though.  Just slightly different.  For 32k, you would need to lift 2 pins and reroute /WE pin and /VCC pin from the pad to the new chip. You will also need a way to control each of the added address pins that are not on the original system pad.

There are 3 ways you can control memory banks, or pages:

The easy way:
Dip switch with pullup resistors

Pro: cheapest, quickest, 4 address switch can be controlled by a hexidecimal rotary switch
Con: need to read *tiny* switch, larger switch does not appear to exist.

Add more switches for more address (ie 5 switch for 64k SRAM, 6 switch for 128k, etc)

Medium way
DIP switch plus LED readout

added with the DIP switch diagram above.
Pro: easy to read current page
con: more wiring, displays in hexidecimal only (0-9, A-F)

Add second 7447 with more switch for 64k, 128k, 256k, and 512k SRAM

Medium-hard:
there is a binary counter with up and down count pin, use it along with 7447 above for 2 buttons counter with display.  I did not look in this because it seems a lot more wiring than the Arduino method below.

Hard way:
2 push buttons and LED readout

Pro: display pages in decimal (starts at 1, 1 to 9, 10-19, etc)
Con: a LOT more work than above mods. Requires a mean to program ATMega328 (such as Arduino UNO board)

With 5 pins left, I can do 3 displays and up to 512k SRAM before I run out. 

Source code for those of you doing the Arduino way:

Code Select Expand

// unused pin: 0 and 1, 4, 13, and by removing DP pin, A3
// digital pin 0 and 1 are not used, these are usually used for communication
// with host and can be repurposed if more pins are needed.

#include "SevSeg.h"
int buttonup = 2;                 // pin to connect the button
int buttondn = 3; // pin to connect the button
int presses = 0;         // variable to store number of presses
long time = 0;         // used for debounce
long debounce = 200;                 // how many ms to "debounce"
const byte numPins = 4;                 // how many address, 5 for 64k and 6 for 128k
int state; // used for HIGH or LOW
   // pins to connect leds
byte pins[] = {5, 6, 7, 8};             
int leddisplay = 1;                     // start LED display at 1
SevSeg sevseg;                          //Instantiate a seven segment controller object

void setup()
{
/* we setup all pins as OUTPUT and start at LOW */
for(int i = 0; i < numPins; i++) {
pinMode(pins[i], OUTPUT);
                digitalWrite (pins[i], LOW);
}
pinMode(buttonup, INPUT);
pinMode(buttondn, INPUT);
/* use pin 2 and 3 which has interrupt 0 and 1 on Arduino UNO */
attachInterrupt(0, countup, FALLING);
attachInterrupt(1, countdn, FALLING);

      // setting up LED display
         byte numDigits = 2; // 2 digits for 16, 32, and 64 pages.
         byte digitPins[] = {A1, 11}; // equals to number of digits used,
         byte segmentPins[] = {10, 9, A0, A2, A3, 12, 13, A5}; // pin a, b, c, d, e, f, g, and DP
         // can probably leave out A3 DP and free a pin for one more LED display
         sevseg.begin(COMMON_ANODE, numDigits, digitPins, segmentPins); // change to cathode if used
         sevseg.setBrightness(70); // change to be brighter or dimmer
}
 
void loop()
{
/* convert presses to binary and store it as a string */
String binNumber = String(presses, BIN);
       
if((0 <= presses)&&(presses <= 15)) { // change to 31 or 63 for 64k and 128k

digitalWrite(pins[0], (presses &        B1));
digitalWrite(pins[1], (presses &       B10));
digitalWrite(pins[2], (presses &      B100));
digitalWrite(pins[3], (presses &     B1000));

} else {
                if (presses > 15) presses = 15;
                if (presses < 0) presses = 0; // change both lines from 15 to 31 for 64K, 63 for 128k
}

    // display current page
    leddisplay = presses + 1 ;
    sevseg.setNumber(leddisplay, 0);
    sevseg.refreshDisplay(); // Must run repeatedly
}
 
/* function to count the presses */
void countup() {
// we debounce the button and increase the presses
if(millis() - time > debounce) presses++;
time = millis();
}

void countdn() {
// we debounce the button and decrease  the presses
if(millis() - time > debounce) presses--;
time = millis();
}You will need to add sevseg library to your Arduino IDE to make this work.

Lastly, replacing the backup RAM cap would help.  On my Duo it's a tiny 0.047uF wich won't last long. I am getting 1 farad cap which should last me many months even with the larger SRAM chip.

Before jumping into this project, be aware that:
SOIC chip are small and can be hard to remove if you don't have a proper SMD work station.  The chip in my Duo-R was glued on underneath so I had to use dentist pick to desolder and lift individual pins before I could pop it out.

If you are going to get DIP package for Turbobooster Plus or Tennokoe2 and going to get a 300mil to 600 mil adapter for larger SRAM, watch the clearance or you may have trouble reassembling the shells.  Alternative is DIP to SOIC adapter as it'd be a few mm thinner.

What size SRAM you want depends on  how much work you want, and don't go overboard. 1megabit SRAM (128kx8) exists but that would be 64 pages, a lot of flipping switches or pushing buttons.  Also be aware that SRAM comes in even smaller TSOP package which will be hard to work with, and some SRAM are serial or 16 bits parallel, not 8 bits which is not useful for this mod, and some SRAM requires lower voltage rather than 5v the system puts out.  Make sure the SRAM you get are:
5v normal
low power standby would be nice
has 8 bit data
and is not from disreputable source like eBay where you may end up with nonworking counterfeit.
Bonus: if you consider the pricey ferroelectric ram (FRAM for short), you won't need to bother with replacement cap. FRAM can retain data for 151 years!!!

And above all, work carefully!  If you have limited soldering experience, it is best to ask someone to do the work for you.  Same thing with case modding for the switch or display.

Original work log below:

Been itching to do this for a few years but I finally got started.



The chip was a pain to remove, it used some strong glue to hold it down.  I have on hand new chip to install. I need to double check the pinout, lift the extra pins, wire VCC from the pad spot 24 to the new chip 28, and 4 wires to switch for toggling address.

I had to take a break.  A marathon soldering session 4 hours isn't good for anyone's health.  Fixed Atari Lynx (no power), worked on C64 board (bad RAM) and then Duo-R.  Plus it was past 4 AM here and I am expected up before 9 AM.  Time flies when you're high on solder fume.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: naked Memory Base 128]

Right now Save-kun seems to be going for same price as MB128.  I did find an interesting page about accessing the save: http://pcedev.blockos.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=98

So it'd be possible to cook up a simple HuC ROM that can be used on Everdrive that checks for MB128 or SK, and if it's present and the BRAM is also present, then start up utility to copy from one to another or swap.  If either the BRAM (ie PC Engine, Coregrafx, and TG-16 without memory add on or CD system, and the portables) or if the device is not plugged in the controller port, put up a screen stating it can't run.

I don't know what games beside Private Eye Dol has easy to use bank swapping utility. Maybe it'd be possible to rip the code just for that section, maybe clarify a few points with help or tip, and make it work stand alone ROM?  The ROM would allow memory swapping on Turbobooster Plus, Memory Booster, and Tennokoe2 so those systems won't need to depend on CD-ROM system.

That page posted a few pictures of naked SK:


Other than the name of the logic chip and the board layout, it's the same.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / naked Memory Base 128]

Didn't find this in Google search and the forum search is a bit dumb so I couldn't tell if anyone ever posted this before.



Uses Oki 128KBx1 serial RAM chip, a .047F cap as backup for when you change the batteries, and a NEC chip 65015 which looks like a small FPGA to me if the datasheet is correct.

There's not much one can do to hack this but it is useful as a 64x memory backup if you used certain game like Private Eye Dol (yes, dol not doll) to swap the entire 2k bank between the host system and one of the 64 blocks.  Sorry but Tennokoe card's only good for 4 banks and it's a bitch to replace the tiny battery plus no backup so if you take the battery out, the save's toast.

This seems like a better choice for when you have lots of saves to preserve and Tennokoe is not enough.  Memory Base 128 and one suitable CD game costs about the same as 2 working Tennokoe cards.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Question about the DUO/R/RX's save data cap]

Since there isn't much detail I can find about Duo-R and RX saves, I opened my R and poked around a bit. I think I figured which cap is for the save RAM: a tiny 0.022uF but it is the only one labeled for 5.5v and next to the 2kx8 SRAM chip.  The chip is on the bottom of the board at IC512. The pin 24 is VCC and goes to a diode (that looks like transistor) which separates the cap power from the main 5v so SRAM can retain power without having the cap drain dry to the whole system


SRAM on top right side. The 2 large solder spot between R543 and the SRAM are the cap leads.

The cap on the top side:


Replacing that cap with something bigger and is at least 5.5v will help retain data longer.  I don't know if I will replace the SRAM chip with something bigger as it is smaller than I thought.  Tennokoe2 used the larger DIP package that is easier to work with. SMD IC is not as easy to work with.

[Off-Topic / Re: Random Pictures Thread]

Posted on AA forum, it was damn funny:


a fake Panty Raid cart photoshopped in a thread flaming a seller who tried to sell a very shitty and blatantly fake looking Air Raid cart

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: NES Advantage to PCE/Duo controller hack]

Some update.  I am almost done wiring the board.



Lucky the cable fits a standard 0.1" pin spacing and I got lots of those so I can easily put the controller cable back when I get a new permanent one.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: NES Advantage to PCE/Duo controller hack]

Removed the original chip, made a quick board with the new chip, got it wired up, realized I have another issue: no mini DIN plug to connect to a console.   

I'd rather not take a apart a controller for a cable, even a lowly 2 button PC Engine controller with no rapid switch that is piss-yellow from age and sun.  (hmmm maybe I will  )

While I sat glaring at the lack of usable spare parts to finish my mod, I decided to see about the artwork.  Bondo filling in the Advantage's grooves and the 1/2P switch is easy. Polishing it smooth again is easy. But I'd need to figure out to get textured look around like most other controllers.  Oh and the label?

Feel free to laugh at my art skill. Not everyone can be good in all categories.  I can be good with soldering iron.  I can call out even the shyiest feral cat to come purring at me. I can cook damn good food. But I am shit with art.


Something like this.  Medium gray label background, purple accents around the stick to match regular Duo-R controller, purple speed marking and I/II buttons, and white label for Select, Run, and Slow button.

If only I paid more attention to art class rather than mashing clay like a Godzilla or splashed paint like Jackson Pollock.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Fixing Turbostick slider switch]

I have a Turbostick that works but the metal post had come out of rapid fire speed slider and it won't stay in.  It's not the plastic knob that normally comes off (like when you take it apart) but the metal post. I suspect the socket inside the slider has cracked.  The slider can still change position if I stick something thin like a nail file so the slider itself is working.

How can it be fixed? Or is there a replacement slider somewhere that has correct physical size, correct pins, and correct resistance value?  I hope it wasn't a custom design for NEC to use in Turbostick.

[Off-Topic / The “What-Did-You-Buy-Today?” Thread]

Those early Disney clamshell case were built like a tank and the cover art were better than later releases.  $1 from Goodwill.  No idea if the tape still works, I haven't had a working VCR in about 5 years.

The Black Hole is still the only movie on my original Blu-Ray Disc top 10 wanted list that still hasn't seen a BD release yet.  Current rumor is it will be released with the new Black Hole movie.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Turbo Gouging on Ebay ( r.i.p. - gouging much )]

Konami seemed to stop caring when they also dropped their old logo:

[Off-Topic / Re: Smashing Pumpkins]

Sour Puss

[Off-Topic / Re: Gamegear LCD replacement Group buy]

How does the font looks with gamegear games?

Blocky but very easy to read.  I went back to my GG and finished the optional VGA mod.

Anyway update I finished the rest of the LCD mod on my Game Gear.  It now has VGA port.
 
I forgot to take picture of my wiring work before I closed it up.  After looking around my console, I decided port on the side won't work because it's curved and would be a bit tricky to get even cut plus it's also hard to get mounting screws secured near the seam between front and back half.  I ended up having it stick out of the back near the converter mounting screw, it just fits if I ever needed a Master Gear converter and VGA display.
 
 

 
One thing I noticed, I can't change between internal LCD and VGA on the spot, so I needed to set the dial high for VGA or low for internal LCD.
 
VGA default mode: (full with scanline)

 
VGA second mode (full without scanline)

 
VGA third mode (reduced with scanline)

 
and last one (reduced no scanline)

 
SMS games also looked fine in full screen:


 
I did not take the other 2 SMS modes, it was tiny.  Maybe the tiny mode would be fine if you were playing on a 100" display and didn't like Tetris-esque blocks.
 
One thing I noticed was that in scanline mode, there were varying brightness level on horizontal lines.  I don't know if this is the way the mod was done or if I need to recheck my wiring?
 
I used an old NEC VGA panel that I found at a Goodwill for about $5. It had a full glass front which meant easy to clean. Most LCD has bezel that can trap dust and grimes in the corner.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTB pc engine rare games and goods]

PC Engine keyholder!

Looks like it could be 3D printed easily. hmmm... wonder how long it'd take to make a 3D CAD file to send to a printer?

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: About to commit rodenticide...]

The last time I saw my cover, it was still mint. This is what it looks like now:

The back is worse

*cries*

A repro might help but it won't be original.

[Off-Topic / Re: Gamegear LCD replacement Group buy]

I just got my LCD kit from him yesterday, it was about 10 days from him somewhere in Europe to me in USA.  GG mod is a bit harder than Lynx mod because some of the parts to be removed is much smaller.

Lost 2 of the SMD transistors but aside the CFL, LCD, 2 large caps, and 2 fuses all the little parts could easily fit on a microSD.  You will need a small tip soldering iron or a decent desoldering station to remove those without damaging PCB.  The solder spots where the 2 fuses were removed needs to be cleaned and flat so the LCD mod can slide in.


Yes it plays SMS games off Everdrive GG or via SMS converter and

plays GG games without shrinking a lot like the old RGB mod.

Total time was around 2 hours with lots of distraction to TV. I could probably have done most of it in 70-90 minutes with the TV turned off.

The only mod to the GG case is to remove the screw post on the front shell. Just one.  Additional mod needed if you want to install VGA port.

Another advice: soldering wires on the original LCD connector is also challenging. I would suggest something really small like 30 wires (like kynar). I used 24 and they were a little fat and almost touching next pad.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Turbo Gouging on Ebay ( r.i.p. - gouging much )]

Not eBay but gouging related.  In Disc Replay in Flint, MI they had a couple TG-16 games in case with manual: Darkwing Duck and Cadash. Their price?  $150 each.  Cadash is probably 1/3 on eBay (and still too much) but Darkwing Duck WTF?? Why so expensive?

(sorry for bad picture, cheap shit cell phone camera)

They had another rare gem and someone with a bad case of tourette syndrome was hitting the keypad too many times:

I don't care for "Not for Resale" variation but there's about 2 9's too many somewhere to the left of decimal point.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Raffle: Gredler Got Moon Ruined]

[Buy/Sell/Trade / How much is this worth?]

Card only, doesn't play at all in my TG-16 or TE, cleaned it a lot so I suspect it is 100% dead.  CNN mentioned video game could be worth as much as $18,342,543 so I wanted to check before I sell it for 10x the highest suggested value.









PS not a real how much it is worth post, just picking on those noobs asking how much it's worth we've been getting lately.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / (USA) FS TurboGrafx-16 with AV+S-Video mod and original PSU]

sold

Been using this for many years as a second system, I modded it with video ports so I didn't need to hunt down those overpriced Turbobooster.  I had them mounted to the side so it wouldn't interfered if I ever got a Turbobooster Plus or CD system but since I got a Duo-R last month, my old "main" system is now my second and this one is just taking up space.

Original console, no region mod, original power supply plus A/V cable and S-Video cable.

$100 shipped in USA!. I take Paypal or US postal money order.  I would rather not put this on eBay as I would have to raise it to $125 minimum to cover eBay fee and aggravation fee (noob asking really dumb questions like will it play NES games or can XBox controller be used)

Pictures (large hi-res)

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Can it be done? save RAM inside TE?]

light red shaded area on NEC to EXT connector are no connection.  The middle EXT pinout are just for reference, and the third EXT pinout are those used by SRAM, those are shared with NEC chip.

Most of the connection are between custom NEC chip and the ext connector, with a few address lines shared with SRAM chip.  And a few connection (data and rest of address) are strictly between NEC chip and SRAM chip.  SRAM doesn't have its own connection to the EXT bus.

Preliminary detail, I still need to double check that I didn't miss any connection or get any wrong but this seems about right.  And it happens that all of the required pins can be tapped right off the cart connector so I could just tap onto the ribbon connector rather than directly off the CPU.  I'd suggest getting 5v and ground elsewhere, closer to the internal 5v regulator.

The only limiting factor is if I can get the board small enough to fit in the space between controller board and battery compartment with the cap mod to the SRAM for data retention.  And that my idea for a diode and cap is enough to hold data on SRAM for more than a few days without draining the batteries.

Even with the new LCD on my express, the password screen is still a pain in the ass to deal with so battery backed ram for some games would be wonderful.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Can it be done? save RAM inside TE?]

Turbobooster, Turbobooster Plus, Tennokoe, and Backup Booster plus CD systems all have save RAM for in game saves. (there's also Save-kun and M128 but those are not usable with most games).

Express and GT do not and they do not have the expansion connector for one.

I have been looking at Tennokoe (cheapest) and it seems like I can cut the board to minimum including the custom NEC chip plus SRAM chip, add a super cap to the SRAM's + rail with a diode in line so the cap can be charged when TE is powered on, and keep SRAM from getting erased:


I've documented the pinouts from the EXT connector to the chip and SRAM and I'd need to clean up my notes, type it in text file, and double-check it all. Then figure out which CPU pins to tap.

Some of the components on one side of the bank is used for battery watchdog and can be removed in favor of a super cap and a diode. (was 4 transistors plus a dozen caps and resistors cheaper than one super cap back then?)

The only issue is about 30 wires from CPU to the save board.  Since Tennokoe didn't use some of the expansion pinouts (CD detect, video bus, etc) it cuts down some work from the full 69 pins but that's still a lot of work to do.  Also would I still have room to install it in a TE?  The wide ribbon cable from the mainboard to the cart board would be in the way.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: TE TurboPad/TurboStick mod???]

Found this image when looking for unrelated issue:


It's for PCE or Duo controller, to use the larger TG-16 controller you'd need to check this one:

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Turboexpress LCD mod take 2 - rolling screen]

Take 3 worked and this time I took precaution not to fry the LCD controller board

[Console Repair/Mod Center / mod plan: power LED for Duo-R]

PC Engine, Coregrafx, Turbografx-16 all have one thing in common: no LED at all.  CD system has drive LED but that is all.  I wanted a power on indicator.  There were 2 ways of doing it.


Easy way: adding a second LED alongside existing LED wired to 5v and ground. The only drawback is it'd mix color with drive LED.  You could change drive LED and color coordinate with a second LED to get a nice pleasing one color for drive, second color for other. But I wanted blue for power on with no drive and red for drive.  Since there's no way to combine blue with something to get solid red, the easy plan won't work.

Harder way: second LED is switched electronically so it comes on when the drive LED is not on.  I found a quick schematic that seemed to do the trick:


and my finished LED assembly:

I opted for dead bug style, with only 4 parts it wasn't worth wasting a PCB.  The LED anode and cathode lined up with collector and emitter of the transistor. Anode/collector led connected to a 1k resistor (which with 5v makes for a nice blue light that won't melt eyes like some cheap electronis LED can), emitter ad cathode side are connected to ground. The blue wire with 10k resistor inline is to go somewhere.

I'll post update when I finish, verify my idea works, and get video.

PS I did check the drive LED when I was fixing bad RAM issue (different thread) and saw the cathode is connected to ground and anode is connected to a 470 ohms resistor to a transistor, one leg to 5v and other leg probably to an IC chip for drive activity. I plan to tap onto that transistor pin.  The layout is probably the same on RX (since it's only 1 letter printing on console and a 6-button controller instead of 2 button controller as pack in) but it would likely be different on black Duo.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Turboexpress LCD mod take 2 - rolling screen]

which sync signal do you use ?

Should be built in.  I hooked my TE to a TV and it was fine. The LCD seems to be bad out of the box.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Your new TG16/CD collection purchases for the month?]

I got this weird thing today.

?? What is it?

A HuCard from the look of it.  no idea what is *on* the HuCard.