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12/31/2025: Localization News - Year of the Dragon...Emerald Dragon!
Recent posts
#1
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by thesteve - 02/28/2026, 02:08 AM
I break them loose by holding the body of the pot with small pliers and turning the knob
If you just turn it without support, you could damage the legs or board
If you just turn it without support, you could damage the legs or board
#2
Localizations, Games, Apps, Docs / Popful Mail Localization Proje...
Last post by NightWolve - 02/25/2026, 09:49 PM #3
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 02/25/2026, 09:41 AM
@steve, how did you remove the glue? Hot air? Or you indeed turned it until it broke?
@Keith: Yes, using CDRs (original discs read flawlessly). I'm burning everything using my external usb drive (also tried with 2 SATA drivers [one of them a lightscribe capable] - makes no diff) and using Verbatim AZO. I've tried a cheap local brand and the duo ignored it completely.
I was able to play rondo of blood from beginning to end yesterday and also go through the sound test and play all the tracks successfully. Now when I try to play Ys (I checked the dump hashes) the drive always go out of track when talking to the lady at the dungeon (first dungeon, after you get the key). I'm waiting for the grease delivery so I can try that but I'll see if I can use other media in the meanwhile. Thanks
@Keith: Yes, using CDRs (original discs read flawlessly). I'm burning everything using my external usb drive (also tried with 2 SATA drivers [one of them a lightscribe capable] - makes no diff) and using Verbatim AZO. I've tried a cheap local brand and the duo ignored it completely.
I was able to play rondo of blood from beginning to end yesterday and also go through the sound test and play all the tracks successfully. Now when I try to play Ys (I checked the dump hashes) the drive always go out of track when talking to the lady at the dungeon (first dungeon, after you get the key). I'm waiting for the grease delivery so I can try that but I'll see if I can use other media in the meanwhile. Thanks
#4
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by Keith Courage - 02/24/2026, 10:16 PM
I see from your Short video that you are using CDR discs. Your audio dropping out can possibly be fixed by regreasing the lens rails and also by slightly raising the lens gain potentiometer on the lens itself. If that doesn't work, then continue reading for info on using CDR discs that I've posted in forums before.
I've learned from years of working on DUOs that not all DUOs like the same types/Brands of CDR discs.
I've worked on many that only work good with the cheaper typical light green bottom Verbatim CDRs, but I've also worked on just as many that only work good with slightly Higher quality CDrs like Verbatim Datalife plus discs. 94755 to be exact as they use darker (bluish) Azo Dye. There have also been many situations where changing out the lens or making lens adjustments makes no difference as to what kinds of CDRs work good but in some cases it does help.
I have also found that the model of CDRW/DVDRW drive plays a big part depending on what kind of CDR media you are using as to how good the quality of the burn turns out. Meaning, say I have a DUO that only works good with cheaper Verbatim CDrs. I could burn the same type of disc in two different CDRW drives only to have one burn that barely works and the other works perfect. But then the opposite could exist for the AZO dye discs. Meaning the CDRW drive that made the junk burn for the cheaper CDR discs, ends up working better for the AZO dye discs. So it's really a lot of trial an error.
Don't go out of your way to find an older drive that burns slower. If the slowest your drive will go is 12X, well then that can be good enough as long as the CDRW drive is good quality. I typically use older drives only because I have a bunch of used ones laying around from Old PCs I have recycled for customers over the years. I usually burn at 8X speed with them.
So don't look for a specific CD burner. Just get one and give it a try.
You might want to try a different CD burning software. What are you using? Image burn? I find that depending on the CDRW/DVDRW I am using, I will sometimes have to use Nero or Alchohol 120% but sometimes Image burn is fine for other drives.
Also, make sure you are burning your discs using the .cue file and not the .iso or .bin itself. cue is the file to select to burn the disc.
I've learned from years of working on DUOs that not all DUOs like the same types/Brands of CDR discs.
I've worked on many that only work good with the cheaper typical light green bottom Verbatim CDRs, but I've also worked on just as many that only work good with slightly Higher quality CDrs like Verbatim Datalife plus discs. 94755 to be exact as they use darker (bluish) Azo Dye. There have also been many situations where changing out the lens or making lens adjustments makes no difference as to what kinds of CDRs work good but in some cases it does help.
I have also found that the model of CDRW/DVDRW drive plays a big part depending on what kind of CDR media you are using as to how good the quality of the burn turns out. Meaning, say I have a DUO that only works good with cheaper Verbatim CDrs. I could burn the same type of disc in two different CDRW drives only to have one burn that barely works and the other works perfect. But then the opposite could exist for the AZO dye discs. Meaning the CDRW drive that made the junk burn for the cheaper CDR discs, ends up working better for the AZO dye discs. So it's really a lot of trial an error.
Don't go out of your way to find an older drive that burns slower. If the slowest your drive will go is 12X, well then that can be good enough as long as the CDRW drive is good quality. I typically use older drives only because I have a bunch of used ones laying around from Old PCs I have recycled for customers over the years. I usually burn at 8X speed with them.
So don't look for a specific CD burner. Just get one and give it a try.
You might want to try a different CD burning software. What are you using? Image burn? I find that depending on the CDRW/DVDRW I am using, I will sometimes have to use Nero or Alchohol 120% but sometimes Image burn is fine for other drives.
Also, make sure you are burning your discs using the .cue file and not the .iso or .bin itself. cue is the file to select to burn the disc.
#5
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by thesteve - 02/24/2026, 02:50 AM
The pot on the laser was glued at factory
I generally break them loose
I generally break them loose
#6
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 02/23/2026, 01:20 PM
Awesome, thanks for the tip! Yesterday I noticed that the cd laser pot screw also doesn´t turn (any way) so I'm assuming the person that touched this also glued it -_-
#7
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by NightWolve - 02/23/2026, 12:55 PM
Quote from: rfernov111 on 02/20/2026, 04:17 PMMy biggest problem now is the cd :/
EDIT: Captured the problem https://1drv.ms/v/c/4b0117f8503301c7/IQCYNZaGSsuzQrV3zSFFDksLAR8HLqT9rehHggXNk4e36SU?e=oVUlTG
BTW, this is one of the few times I think I can contribute a solution to these sorts of problems: The grease on the laser slider pole is 33+ years old, well, what's left of it; it's mostly gone, dried up... You need to thoroughly clean up the pole/all moving parts with alcohol or something stronger, then apply fresh new white lithium grease!
When my US Turbo Duo started doing this - cutting off a BGM Redbook CDDA track halfway - I'd apply petroleum jelly which is all I had at the time, and it'd work a little longer. Not an ideal lubricant, but it worked. Anyway, it *might* be as simple as that for this, but obviously you had worse problems with that unit!
Protip: It helps if you unmount/free the motor & sprockets so you can freely slide the laser back'n'forth once you start applying new grease, then you can fully cover/spread it all around far better! But those screws are glued/tight, might be hard to free them, and something could break. Beware. But yes, this CDDA cutoff problem happens because the laser unit has lost its agility moving across the pole without any grease! The friction is much higher! So try this before replacing the whole laser/motor assembly.
#8
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 02/23/2026, 12:04 PM
Doh! You right, stupid typo. I meant the 6260 and I got the idea from the furrtek reversed lut yuv table (from https://www.furrtek.org/?a=pceyuv)
#9
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by thesteve - 02/22/2026, 10:44 PM
6280 doesn't handle image at all
The picture is rendered in the 6270 and scaled and colored in the 6260
6260 does have RGBSHV available at the chip
The picture is rendered in the 6270 and scaled and colored in the 6260
6260 does have RGBSHV available at the chip
#10
Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: duo full of problems
Last post by rfernov111 - 02/22/2026, 08:47 PM
I was able to mess with the unit today again and after messing with VR103 (turning it more CCW) Rondo now plays the music non stop. The Ys issue still persists (I'm going to trust Steve and maybe try to find a replacement motor). VR102 is functional but looks horrible. Anyway, work in progress but apparently is progressing well. Thank you for your input Steve and thanks NIghtWolve for summoning him 
I'll come back soon-ish with more details/progress report.
In a side question: Steve, would you know how the Huc6280 digital DACs work? I'm under the impression they receive the 3 bits for each color and just scale them to send the signal but I'm not sure. I'm asking because I'm trying to make a RGB->YUV color lut on the OSSC (I kinda got it working but the image is kinda yellowish and I'm wondering if its the signal getting scrambled somewhere due to noise or maybe I'm misunderstanding the DACs). Thanks once again
I'll come back soon-ish with more details/progress report.In a side question: Steve, would you know how the Huc6280 digital DACs work? I'm under the impression they receive the 3 bits for each color and just scale them to send the signal but I'm not sure. I'm asking because I'm trying to make a RGB->YUV color lut on the OSSC (I kinda got it working but the image is kinda yellowish and I'm wondering if its the signal getting scrambled somewhere due to noise or maybe I'm misunderstanding the DACs). Thanks once again