Messages

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

From the picture, appears you have the correct style bit.
DON'T understand it's ability to open a Genesis game.
Are the screws in the Genesis the same as the screws in your Duo?
Got anybody local to you that handles such matters?  Try Craigslist, if present for your vicinity.
Don't know what to tell you, unfortunately...strange.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

4.5mm gamebit is standard for the USA Turbo Duo.  Top of screw is CONVEX.
Torx Security T10 is standard for the Japanese Turbo Duo.  Top of screw is concave.

If your 4.5mm doesn't fit, perhaps they sent a 3.8mm by mistake.
Got a NES or SNES cart kicking around the house?  They're put together with either flat head (NES) or 3.8mm (NES/SNES) screws.
Got a Genesis cart around the house?  They're put together with either philips or 4.5mm screws.

Check your screw bit against the NES/SNES/Genesis carts to determine it's size.  If this doesn't work, take a GOOD picture of your screw, and we'll collectively figure it out for you.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

For ADCPM audio (sourced by U502), come out mono through cap c652 to passive filter (uses c623), to one-half of U503 amp  , out U503 (cap 653) through passive filter (uses c621) to other-half of U503, into U504 audio gate (both channels), continue as above.

Assuming the recap was successful, how do we test the surface mount components mentioned by Charlie?
I'm looking specifically at:
C652 (bottom of board, surface mount)
C623 ("""")
C621 (top of board, surface mount)

C652, C623 and C621 are all part of the circuit described by Charlie in first quote.  These are SURFACE MOUNT, and in order to test them, you need to remove them at least partially from the board.  As I don't know specifically what the frell they are, I was looking for Charlie to provide insight:
1)  What they are (diodes, capacitors, etc.)
2)  Possible part numbers if replacement is needed
3)  Test values for working unit, or multimeter SETTINGS to test.  Have multimeter, will test, once I figure out how.  Will post values for others' reference, might be helpful in analyzing Duo_R's "already replaced the M5205" problem.  If one of these surface mount cats have blown, would presumably account for unit's behavior.

Duo_R, I can't locate "BU4053BF".....give me an approximate physical location, I'll pull mine from my leftover parts (1X146474A from above) and send to you if needed.  Bear in mind, however, that the ADPCM on this unit did NOT work.....yours for the taking if you feel like testing with it, though.  Board is parts, and I'm gonna toss it soon.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

Let it be it known today, May 31, 2010, "Memorial Day" here in the United States of America, that PC Engine Duo serial number 1X146474A gave it's life so that others of it's kind might live.
On a day where we all remember and honor our dead, so shall 1X146474A be remembered and honored.
 

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

FINALLY got some love out of my PAIR of ailing PCE Duos...
Had one (mentioned earlier in this thread, months ago) that's been sitting around doing nothing.....ADPCM worked, but no Redbook.
Bought another off a dude on the TurboList as parts.....Redbook works, but no ADPCM.

Pulled the M5205 off both units, switched out their respective M5205s.  Used a socket to facilitate easier testing in the future:  Radio Shack 276-1992, $0.48.  Soldered the socket down, stuck the working 5205 into it, and Bonk talks.  NICE!!!

Methodology/tools used:
Radio Shack 45 watt desoldering iron/bulb, P/N 64-2060:  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
Desoldered all 18 pins, sucking solder up with above product.  This thing is HOT, don't let it sit on your chip's leg while you answer the phone.  Excessive heat applied directly to any chip will fry it's little guts.

Once all 18 pins were reasonably clean, plugged in the Weller WM120 12W:  http://www.frys.com/product/64252?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
Using MP131 tip:  http://www.frys.com/product/64311?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG (comes with the unit above)

Grabbed the chip (still stuck in place at this point) with these black tweezer-looking things, Radio Shack 276-1581:  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103244
Suprisingly handy....allows you to maintain pretty much consistent withdrawal pressure on the chip.

Flipped motherboard over, heated individual pins that appeared to still be holding on to the board, chip came off easily.

Rinse and repeat for donor board.

Install socket mentioned above, RS 276-1992....the divot in the end of it goes towards the heatsinks.  Installing this socket also keeps you from overheating the chip itself while soldering (you're soldering socket instead directly on chip), provided you didn't already with the desoldering iron above.  Use the WM120/MP131 combo to solder it in place...stick the thing onto the board, solder.  Heat each leg protruding through the board, touch with solder, should be sufficient if you're connecting PCB pads and socket legs.

Insert M5205 into socket, divot in end of chip goes towards the heatsinks.  The chip should press down into the socket...if it doesn't, clean your chip legs for ease of insertion.  NO NEED TO SOLDER CHIP INTO PLACE.

Reinstall board into machine, test.  If Bonk talks, you're stoked.  Sell it quickly.   

Fortunately for me, this simple switch worked....now it's onto installing the region switch...urgh.  [Kynar 30 gauge + Radio Shack 276-1570 + 82MS2R3 slide switch = bliss...]

Still looking for commentary on how to test the surface-mount caps mentioned earlier on this page......can't test them in-circuit, pulling them off the board is the only way...perhaps if Charlie can come up with recommended values for these guys in the ADPCM circuit, this can help Duo_R with his 'already replaced the chip' dilemma.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

For ADCPM audio (sourced by U502), come out mono through cap c652 to passive filter (uses c623), to one-half of U503 amp  , out U503 (cap 653) through passive filter (uses c621) to other-half of U503, into U504 audio gate (both channels), continue as above.

Dear God, I'm working on ANOTHER of these failed frelling Duos.  Got one as parts off some guy on the TurboList, but has no ADPCM, even after recapping most of the board in that vicinity.
Board does play Redbook, does play in-game.
ADPCM test vehicle is "Gate/Bonk 1/Bonk 2" disc...when you first boot it, Bonk comes out in the spotlight and TALKS....you see the quote on screen, but there is "Bonk-ese" that plays in the background when the quotes come on the screen:
Screen text "Me Bonk" - ADPCM plays "Ooga Bonk"
Screen text "You Player" - ADPCM plays "Dabba Dooba"
Screen text "We Play" - ADPCM plays "Ooga Mooga"
[Apologies to Bonk if I've spelled his words incorrectly   ]

Assuming the recap was successful, how do we test the surface mount components mentioned by Charlie?
I'm looking specifically at:
C652 (bottom of board, surface mount)
C623 ("""")
C621 (top of board, surface mount)
I'm looking to test ALL caps before resorting to replacement of the M5205.

Speaking of, anybody have intelligent solutions for doing this?  Chip lifters or something?  A really tiny spatula?  What's proper methodology for doing something like this?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

C617,C618 ,C205,C206= .22uf.  Anything 16V or more is ok.

Are these polarized?  Too small to tell which side is +, which is -.  [Parts Express:  .22uF, 50V:  http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=020-1622 .  Gonna throw a buck at this, see what happens...]

Note that U505 has a CD mute function and a CD fade function on pin 8; check that also.

Mute would shut it completely off, right?  Not just way down like we're experiencing...?  If not, perhaps this is the bug....?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

FINALLY got around to this.

Assumptions:  If all the ICs are good for the CD audio circuit, then there are a limited number of failure points in terms of caps:  C205, 206 (bottom of board, surface/flat mount) and C617, 618 (top of board, surface/flat mount, to the right of IC505).  [Remaining caps in circuit is all stuff we replaced:  C613, 614, C616, C604 and C610.]

Questions:
1)  What the frell are proper readings for C617 and C618?  I broke out the working-CD audio USA unit, and it's readings (DC V 20m) behaved radically differently than the faint CD audio JAP unit.
2)  Assuming they're frelled, how do we replace?  Too frelling small to get a reading/part number off.
3)  What are C205, 206 supposed to read?  I'm less concerned about them than I am the ones on the top, but I'll ask.

Comments:  Haven't replaced the 5205...I don't see the point before insuring all other circuit components are in working order....
Also pulled the black cover off the lens to insure it wasn't one of the double-style ones where you have to clean the bottom lens too (fixed a recalcitrant SCPH-50001 PS2 by doing this yesterday....spinning the lens height gears (yes, the 50001 has two!) yielded results for DVD5 and CD, but not DVD9.  Took the cap off the lens, cleaned lower lens with my favorite 91%, works like a charm now.)

Thanks for any help, kids.....glad to see this got stickied so it's not me resurrecting the dead again 

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix]

Interesting....Charlie is my new hero.  [Not to mention already my hero(es) from Military Madness ]
Haven't messed with this PCE Duo that had me resurrecting this thread for a LONG time, I've had other stuff to repair...
Now with a specific plan of attack/testing for the CD audio, I will drag the thing out of the box and trace through those specific points, looking for faults.  I've re-capped the thing twice, but that's not to say that my soldering is invincible...
I also enjoyed the commentary about the headphone jack shorting across the CD audio...fairly certain I tried headphones with the thing and came out with the same really faint audio, so I imagine the headphone jack is NOT at minimum setting....that would be a really stupid solution.
I'm interested to hear if Charlie's commentary prompts other folks with similar audio issues to mine (everything works EXCEPT Redbook from the CD drive, even after replacing laser pickup) to pick up their forgotten-due-to-excessive-irritation no-audio PCEs....

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Internal flash cart]

Jesus, I'm on board.
Will follow this progress intently.
Thought from left field:  Screw the cost, hard wire a Tototek/equivalent to motherboard, epoxy USB interface to outside.
Better yet, convert USB to Ethernet, get something that assigns IP, be able to delete/upload ROMs from your TG/DUO/WTFE like you can FTP with the original Xbox [which is ironically where I play most of my TG16 shit anyway, BUT....]
Zeon, you look like you know your shit here...got anybody that can cheaply CLONE a Tototek?  Removing the HuCard pins/assembly would reduce cost, perhaps there are other things that could be removed from it's build as wel....you COULD hardwire this thing directly to the board (with power/ground/etc), and theoretically if NO ROMs were present on the flash memory, it would boot any HuCard stuck in it's slot....right?
I'm sure I've got this comically oversimplified, but it's something to at least ponder....right?
[Hello, chop5, great quote, 'the gods favor the bold'....]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Bizarre Duo issues]

Curious...investigated this area thoroughly while attempting to trace the audio circuit for my "Plays CDs but not the audio on them" PCE Duo...[watching thread intently, as I'm back to trying to fix this POS..]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo won't play discs]

Gripped the refund today, life is better.
[Haven't made SHIT for progress on the quiet-audio issue my other JAP Duo has, though....RRRRRRRRRR.  REALLY considering moving it, with switch, as a JAP/USA HuCard player.....
must....resist....
solve....problem....
[agt_dale pulls his best Kirk imitation, falls to floor, brain hurting with how-to-fix-CD-issue and how-next-to-*******-Janice-Rand....heh]  ]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo won't play discs]

This PC Engine Duo is officially blacklisted.....won the PayPal case, am returning this unit to eBay seller "kiwi_eater" within 7 days for full PayPal refund (net of shipping, anyway...)

Serial number on case = 28001884B
Serial number (possible part number) on mobo = L31-4-2817AV
Serial number on laser = 02(unreadable)20830

If you're buying or trading a unit off eBay or other sites, hope this info is useful to somebody....you should be able to inquire about serial data with seller/trader without incident...

 

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: cd problem with duo bought on ebay]

Doesn't make sense....the CD is spinning.
Does it make noise while the CD is spinning (sort of ticking)?  If so, the laser may need to be adjusted...but, this doesn't explain DJD's apparent success with getting it to work...
Is this an OEM power supply or aftermarket?  Aftermarkets suck, and that's that.
Is your disc damaged in ANY way?  Pay close attention to the interior of the CD (nearest the orifice in the middle)...any nicks or dings in this area might result in the system spitting errors out...
Is the system spitting out errors?  "Please set disc..." or otherwise?  Or is it just spinning (hanging)?
More details, please....
[Back to being knee-deep in two busted PCE Duos...]

[Off-Topic / USA (California) 'Book-Off' stores....]

Was down in San Diego proper today, visiting Mitsuwa Market (the local Japanese grocery store) today....looked across the parking lot, and lo-and-behold, they had some sort of used DVD/Books/CDs joint...

As an avid collector of such things (my CD collection is 2500+ titles...), I stuck my head in the door and was floored:
1)  Japanese stuff ALL OVER THE PLACE!!!!  Seems they're importing used Japanese CD/DVD/DS/PS1-2-3-P/Wii titles into the US and selling them USED!!!!  [Freaked when I walked in the door, I was like, "oohhh....where's the PCE and Saturn section, please?"...they unfortunately for them don't carry them....I'd have bought it all!]  NICE prices on stuff (they had the first "Bleach" title for Wii for $25, for example), AND the staff is all Japanese, so you can easily drag one of them through the store and say 'what does this say?  this? this? this? this? and this?
2)  Phenomenal selection of Japanese/USA/whatever stuff....they buy from any region.  Even saw the bootleg Chinese DVDs that are always floating around....
3)  TONS of anime shit.  If you like anime, highly recommended.  Has both books, VHS, USA and JAP DVD.
4)  Prices quite reasonable....picked up Duran Duran's "Pop Trash" (J) $5 SEALED, New Order's "International" (UK version with bonus audio CD instead of USA bonus DVD) for $9, New Order's "Get Ready" (I largely ignored this when it came out, it seems...) for $5, and a copy of Snow (remember this idiot?) "Remixes" (J) for $3...saw some nice NIN, Offspring, Metallica, Bowie stuff, but I've got it all....literally held my breath looking for BT's Movement In Still Life (J), but it didn't happen...RRRRRR!
5)  Great selection of 'clearance' stuff, too...great rates on 'filler' stuff for your collection..

See http://www.bookoff.co.jp/en/index.html , click on the various locations:  Los Angeles (2), Hawaii (1), Costa Mesa (1), and San Diego (1).
If you're lucky enough to live in either San Diego or Costa Mesa/LA, I highly recommend checking the place out....

I was with somebody else (who was driving), so I think I'm actually gonna go back tomorrow and give the place a going over with the fine tooth comb....

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Is this the Sega CD 2 AC power cord that works on the DUO?]

Busy light comes on...this is a good sign.
On my Duo that the CD-ROM drive doesn't work, busy light does NOT come on.

Try tuning the laser....it's the grey phillips screw at the side of the laser assembly itself...a SMALL amount clockwise (a little goes a long way on this screw..)  MARK where you had it before you turn so you can get back to ground zero...

Finish your AV cable so you can figure out what the frell it's saying first, though...heh.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Home made converters]

WTF do you want with old carts? "trade of any single loose cart game(atari thru n64,even handheld carts) or pc engine loosey common i don't have"
I'll send you an assortment of goodies just to be able to gaze upon this delightful bit of creativity...
PM me an address to ship to, I'll get a nice care package out...

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Is this the Sega CD 2 AC power cord that works on the DUO?]

Ah, you have the correct piece.
Yes, this will work, as you've cut the non-compatible end off the Sega 2 AV cable...replace with the 5pin.
Use the Duo wiring spec provided above and you're golden!  Enjoy when done...

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Is this the Sega CD 2 AC power cord that works on the DUO?]

Uh, if that's the AV cable in question, it ain't right.
That appears to be a Genesis 2 AV cable...what you need is a Genesis 1 AV cable, 5pin DIN interface....[refer to previous post text..]

Here's a nice little make your own Genesis 1 AV cable (Radio Shack is going to get tired of seeing you) :
http://www.stageselect.com/News/NewsViewer.aspx?newsid=174

Just make it comply with the Duo spec:
http://www.gamesx.com/avpinouts/duoav.htm

(Note that pins 1 and 5 are the same, just wire in pin 2 to red and off you go....)

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo won't play discs]

Got the PM, thanks....

Appreciate the extra intel as well, PayPal is handling this now...seller escalated to Claim right out of the gate, seems indignant about the whole thing.  There's even conflicting information in his two posts, and PayPal tends to err on the side of the buyer (as the buyer can cancel/refuse the credit card transaction at the credit card processor level, leaving PAYPAL holding the bag for the seller's error-in-judgement sale), so I ain't worried.  I offered him $40 for the parts (which I thought was totally reasonable), but he refused.  His bad, I guess...we'll see what hammer-fisted PayPal has to say.   

I'ma try and repair the thing just the same, will start today by comparing/testing resistors on both boards....if I come out with some useful intel, posting it here will benefit everyone....

Is that Red Ghost over there on that gametz post?  [Has same avatar...]
Humorously enough, has "hate/refuse" as part of posting text....heh.  These things are indeed a pain, I remember working on TG16CD units back in the day and getting disgusted....hee.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo won't play discs]

Curiously, I discovered what "GTZ" was by reviewing the post history of whomever started this topic, which listed "www.gametz.com" as a reference point...[his GA data doesn't correspond to TX return address on box, though...]

Chico, thanks for the intel.  Your AL data doesn't correspond to TX return address on box, either.  Either of you (Nat..) happen to ship this thing around in a Flat Rate Priority box with a woman's name listed as contact/return?  [Box I received was reused, had earlier PayPal slip attached to it...nothing like covering your tracks (NOT!)]  HA!

I've definitely been smoked on this deal....time to stop/drop/roll on the curtains to see if I can set the house on fire....

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PCE Duo; Drive Doesn't Spin]

I have recently acquired a Duo, of which I knew before hand would arrive partially working. I was eager to jump on the opportunity as I figured I could get things working again. Errm..

Heh, bought this under exact same conditions, "eager to jump on the opportunity"...was curious as to why this topic died, this fiasco would be the reason why....[gotta love solving mysteries  ]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo won't play discs]

Crap, I spent $122.50 on this, he said he got it from a flea.....gonna bust him HARD with this info....thanks.
Happen to record it's serial number while doing the work?
TIRED of getting jacked on Duo stuff on eBay....people aren't giving out the straight dope.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Is this the Sega CD 2 AC power cord that works on the DUO?]

Mmm...froggot to mention that Sega Genesis/CD 1 AV cables will work fine for the Duo....I traced the pinouts the other day on both the two-tail (yellow/white) and three-tail (yellow/white/red) ones, they both comply with the Duo spec.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo won't play discs]

I bought this, actually, and it's case is a little weird.  I'd appreciate any comments from the experienced field.
Here's what I've done:
1)  Plugged in, tested.  Screen says "Please wait a moment..." after hitting "Run".  Disc does NOT move on spindle.  Nothing happens, just hangs at "Please wait a moment..."
2)  Came with laser pickup.  Installed laser pickup into other PCE Duo I'm working on that has low/no audio.  Pickup worked fine after proper tuning (with grey screw on pickup), but Duo still has no audio.  [This rules out the laser pickup being the culprit for me...]
3)  Removed this entire now-tuned assembly to the unit that doesn't play at all.  In theory, these lasers should be directly interchangeable.  NOTHING happens (screen says "Please wait a moment..." after hitting "Run".  Disc does NOT move on spindle.), just as happened before.
4)  Removed assembly from non-playing unit, put into no-audio unit.  Assembly/pickup combination work fine after tuning.  Replaced in original unit, still no worky.

Soooo, there appears to be something amiss on the board.  Questions:
1)  Anybody ever experience a unit with similar problem?
2)  What was solution?  Is cap replacement going to come into play here?
3)  Anybody got a cap-specific short cut if so?  [This would enable me to test before complete cap replacement.....I bought this board hoping to help me with other no-audio board, but it hasn't happened...RRRR!]
4)  Is this just a laser tuning issue?  Does each board have it's own specific read spot?  Shall I continue trying to tune the pickup to the new motherboard?  I inspected the three pickups I have, and they're all in roughly the same spot, so I'm inclined to think it's something on the board (can't be either pickup/assembly combo because they both work fine with the no-audio unit).
5)  Nat, you've mentioned messing with the pots on the mobo.  Have any insight here?  Are these pertinent/can they be of assistance?

Thanks for any help....I'll keep pecking at both of these in the meantime....
[this is relaxing after dealing with chipping a Wii and trying to get "Bleach Versus Crusade" to work on it today.....still no luck with that &^%^%$ title, I do NOT want to have to resort to the softmod method!  I didn't chip the thing to use a softmod on top of it!]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Is this the Sega CD 2 AC power cord that works on the DUO?]

OK, I've been seeing conflicting information on this Genesis 1 adapter, so I pulled out my box of them and inspected....here's what I came up with:
1)  Sega Genesis/CD 1 adapter, Model 1602:  9V DC, 1.2A, tip negative, type M.  [this has been the source of my confusion]
2)  Sega Genesis/CD 1 adapter, Model 1602-1:  10V DC, 1.2A, tip negative, type M.
3)  Sega Genesis/CD 1 adapter, Model 1602-3:  10V DC, 1.2A, tip negative, type M.
[didn't find a "-2"]

In terms of electrical stability, the later the Model, the better off you're gonna be.  Hit up the local flea for the $1 "1602-3", cut the end off (noting which wires were negative and positive), solder on the "Q" tip in the required tip positive manner and you should be good.

DR is talking about literally that:  a Duo-R.  Is the AC adapter spec for this the same?  This would explain why he's talking about a Genesis 2 (Sega Genesis/CD 2 adapter, Model MK-2103:  10V DC, .85A, tip positive, type C), but Chopsado talks about running a regular Duo with a Genesis 2 adapter (and the unique tip size adapters!) in this thread:
https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=1480.msg99669#msg99669

I'm totally confused about this, the mA for it is too low, I'd think you're underpowering the thing, but he said it ran better.....the mA rating is the MAX amperage the thing can provide.  If the manufacturer shipped it with one that says "1000mA", wouldn't you think something inside it is capable of drawing that?  If this is true, then 850mA is underpowering it....the fact that the thing apparently works better is puzzling.

Anyway, check the mA on the generic Radio Shack....if memory serves, it's like 1300, which would work, provided the max amperage on the unit originally provided by the manfacturer was 1000mA....in theory, the unit is incapable of utilizing the extra 300mA in this case....

Comments, anyone?

["Dammit, Jim, I'm a doctor, not an electrician!" seems strangely appropriate here]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: pc engine region mod problem]

OW!  Hope he's covering shipping to and from HK....otherwise this constitutes 'significantly different than described', which will allow you to have some fun with PayPal....hope this all sorts out well for you, in any event...

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Is this the Sega CD 2 AC power cord that works on the DUO?]

The picture is a Sega CD 1 adapter, not 2.....the 2 tip is yellow, and specs are all wrong.
Specs on this Genesis/Sega CD 1 adapter are:  10VDC, 1.2A, tip NEGATIVE.

Duo_R has written up something on how to convert this.....basically cut the end off, strip to your liking, it requires a "Q" tip from Radio Shit (right?) AND reversing the polarity on it to tip POSITIVE to comply with the Duo's 10VDC, 1A, tip POSITIVE spec.

Hope this helps....

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: USA / PCE Turbo Duo - total capacitor replacement chart]

While I'm not one to reengineer 'works of art', isn't the new background rougher on the color cartridge?
Is plain white out of the question?
Color is REQUIRED for this printout, but really only for the board itself where the different color marks are...perhaps this brilliant new blue could take the place of the grey 3.3V that another member already commented he didn't see..perhaps this new hue would be more appropriate there?

For whatever it's worth, I disagree with the watermarking issue...to an extent.  Yours was originally rather large, but is now easily cropped out.  How about a nice little line along the space/trace lines above the HuCard slot?  For more style points, take out the "L31-XX-2804B" and replace with text/watermark of your choice...."All your PC Engine are belong to www.pcengine-fx.com!"  HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!
It'll go with my t-shirt:  http://www.thinkgeek.com/tshirts-apparel/unisex/gaming/3777/?cpg=ab

All comments herein intended as non-insulting / constructive...  O:)

Enjoy your time away for the holidays, I hope to have more progress on this sound issue by the time you return, I've another JAP unit on it's way here, gonna compare apples and apples....

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: So your Duo still has quiet Redbook after full cap replacement & DW....now what?]

Hey, I hear it every time somebody says it...I did a near full install before the dishwash and then pulled everything (including ones I hadn't replaced prior), sent through the dishwash, then reinstalled fresh.  Sounds to me like RG knows his way around a board as well, and he's got the same results...shit, what am I saying, we ALL know our way round the board at this point!!!!!!!   

Used RG's guide (being able to print that bad boy and have it at your side while outside on the balcony with solder setup and cocktail is PRICELESS!!!), and provided all the polarities are correct on it, they're correct on my install...

I'll try the dishwasher again tomorrow, I suppose....[I've seen your prior posts about having a unit like ours and solving by DW....]
Maybe a good soak would help....?  What are we soaking in?  Gallon bottle of alcohol?  Wow, that's gonna be entertaining....haha!!!!

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: So your Duo still has quiet Redbook after full cap replacement & DW....now what?]

Hmm...your case is a bit different than mine, mine has full HuCard/data off CD & ADPCM, but no Redbook (in-game audio streamed off CD).

R604 and 607 are the same part on both the USA/JAP (appears to say "473" on it), which is why I initally asked about the resistance..still trying to figure out what's what.  For reference, I got similar readings off R566 and R122.  Nearby components should NOT alter the resistance across one of the guys, right?  Assuming this is correct, I should be OK comparing working USA to non-working JAP.

On a lark, I jumpered R604...knocked the channel out completely.  I thought by reducing resistance to zero, might actually make the channel come back, but apparently not.  Also played briefly with the grey pot on the side of the laser assembly...increased performance a bit, but still no decent audio.  I'm willing to rule out the laser at this point, unless there's some unknown amplification entity on the laser itself (?  In this case, then, a fresh laser assembly might work...?  I may pull the laser assembly from my USA unit and rewire to the Japanese spec).

Trying to spec out this "47 kilo ohm" resistor ATM, see if I can't get something that will serve as replacement [I'm unwilling to unsolder the corresponding part off my working USA Duo], it's possible that by not providing correct amount of resistance, something's gone awry [why I jumpered it, not sure why the whole channel went out  ]

Anybody got a working-audio PCE Duo they'd be willing to tear down to have a look at these points / follow us along?  I'm willing to bet these USA/JAP boards are the same, but this would cement another variable.

RG, certainly appreciate your input here / time with the multimeter....THANKS!  [To be continued...]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Updated 7/23/07 - US and PC Engine Duo total capacitor replacement chart +]

Holy Bananas, Nat quoted this original posting.

Yes, Red Ghost, this is the one I wanted to see the volts updated on...[and, as long as I've got everyone's attention by necroposting this, both this chart AND the Express charts are WORKS OF ART according to us folk who like to repair stuff and both deserve to be stickied...how does one access this functionality?  I see the buttons at the bottom of the main page, but.........?]

[Special Agent Dale Cooper (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dale_Cooper) adds his name to the list of folks who have appreciated your efforts....]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: So your Duo still has quiet Redbook after full cap replacement & DW....now what?]

Hey, there's one great mystery solved...we heard which cap this was.   

Unfortunately, this was one of the 55 replaced...still working on this, anybody got insight into the resistance issue?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: So your Duo still has quiet Redbook after full cap replacement & DW....now what?]

Pulled all caps and cleaned all pads before dishwash...shouldn't be an issue.

Just re-pulled 5 audio fix caps, took another resistance reading....same as before.  Still don't get why this isn't the same as working USA unit.

Analyzed pads and surrounding 'sinks' (do these have a proper name?  the little holes that go through the board?  ALL caps legs except the post-op positives are continuous with ONE of these nearby 'sinks') for continuity to make sure I hadn't lifted a pad.....reinstalled caps to verified pads, same results, low audio.

Nat, what's this 'cap out on the middle of the board' thing? (I've reviewed all posts rather thoroughly of late, haven't seen your response to this...)  Maybe once located, I'll go have a multimeter fiesta out in this vicinity in hopes of finding some electronic love...[there is no 'Fiesta' smiley, it seems...]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / So your Duo still has quiet Redbook after full cap replacement & DW....now what?]

So, I'm still trying to fix this PCE Duo...
I've done the following:
1)  Three hot dates with the dishwasher (Duo prolly needs a cigarette at this point  )
2)  Full mini/submini (55) capacitor replacement..
Sound still sucks.  I'm pissed, and want to fix...

So, I have a USA Duo that still has full sound capabilities, I've had the bright idea of comparing all the resistors between the two units, in hopes of isolating something that doesn't match and analyzing it....

I'm going over the resistors on the backside of the mobo, got some readings I can't figure out...
I'm looking at R604 (audio right channel) and R607 (audio left channel).  These are linked somehow to the two 10uF caps at the Post Op area
I've got my multimeter set for resistance testing (Greek Omega) at 20K.

R604 and 607 on the working USA unit are showing ~8.3 each.  (Positive lead on one end, negative on the other)
R604 and 607 on the quiet JAP unit are showing ~19.3 each [more than double!]

I've physically inspected these and they appear to have the same text on them, so I assume they should have the same functionality....anybody that know anything about electronics (I'm an accountant, I don't know shit about electronics...) have commentary on this observation (I'm assuming something is either out-of-whack here or it's related to the fact the caps are not identical to originals)?  I'm still stuck trying to figure out exactly what is connected to what, comparing working unit A to non-working unit B...

Any still got one of these 'quiet' units kicking about that they could have an electronic gander at?  Any other thoughts for repair?  HELP!!!

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: CDROM2 laser swap]

Hmmm....does indeed seem to be missing a bit.

Anybody other than PCEH got one of these units they'd care to disassemble / photo / post?  This missing gear-looking thing is actually on the bottom of the assembly, is similar in nature to the rubber feet I was talking about (although given the fact this thing sets from top down, this shouldn't (in theory, given notions of gravity) be an issue....the centerpiece of his picture is actually the spindle-mate that rests on top of the CD once inserted..)

I don't know...there's one of these things on eBay ATM, I may buy it just for the Hell of it...

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: CDROM2 laser swap]

I'm getting this with the Duo I'm working on ATM as well....

The laser assembly itself is on rubber 'springs'...try just puching it up and down a couple times....

If the assembly fits into a plastic piece (like it does on the Duo), make sure this plastic piece is situated correctly.....I ran into this with this piece and the small ground wire nearby....

All I've been able to do so far is just tear down, reassemble, hope for proper operation....repeat until end.

GREAT GREAT GREAT that you got it back together and functional!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo and it's (ahem!) hot date with the dishwasher....help, please!]

Yeah, water quality SUCKS here, I thought that's what the funk was.....but, apparently it doesn't conduct.

Anybody ever try CLR (C alcium L ime R ust remover) on a motherboard before?

I used it to unfunk my switch this afternoon, followed with a nice chase of 91% (and a good blowing off with the compressed air) in case any of it felt like sticking around......does not appear to have damaged the board in any way......may try scrubbing down these white bits with it and the toothbrush (if it's calcium/whatever deposits, it should burn right through them....), see what happens.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: pc engine region mod problem]

I traced the wiring on the switch, I rescind my statement about it not working at all if not wired correctly....working in whatever mode the un-jumpered wires were installed in, and NOT working due to faulty jumpers is indeed a possibility.

Nice to see 8PDT switches available just at the click of a button (pardon the pun)...I couldn't find them in the wild back when I looked, let alone in push-button style.
How the frell does one mount one of those push-buttons, anyway?  Doesn't look like a lot of space for epoxy to adhere to....?

[Still waiting for pics of this install, BTW...]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: TURBO DUO SOUND FIX!! (56k beware)]

Well, got the thing back together after it's hot date with the dishwasher...

CD audio did NOT return, although ADPCM did (!!).  CD audio is still REALLY faint.  This rules out the M5205 (which I did find on eBay, BTW:  http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ICS-M5205-OKI-18-PINS-DIP-5205_W0QQitemZ150117198253QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Electronic_Components?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 )

I had to pull it apart again to fix the power switch (seized up after I didn't dry it after removing from DW..), so once it's finished drying, I'll slap it all back together again, let it run overnight or something in hopes of charging caps or something....

Also helpful to note (for those of you with modded systems) that the CD player functionality works WITHOUT the HuCard slot connected...I installed a switch in this thing prior to it's audio failure, I just disconnected it from the HuCard slot and fired the thing up for CD testing....helpful not to have to wire up the switch back to the slot before testing!

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo and it's (ahem!) hot date with the dishwasher....help, please!]

Well, finally got the thing back together again.....one thing I learned along the way:  blow the power switch assembly dry with canned air so it doesn't rust itself closed.....mine did, and I had to clean with CLR then alcohol...seems to be working fine now, it's in the dish drainer drying out again...

Also, Nat was right about the white gunk between the chips on the backside of the mobo...it's just funk, clean if you're OCD.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: CDROM2 laser swap]

Here's the jumper he's talking about on an Xbox laser unit....[llamma rules for nice repair tuts!]
http://www.llamma.com/xbox/Repairs/thomson_xbox_laser_installation.htm (it's all the way at the bottom of the page...)
This could be your culprit, have another look around the body of the laser once you've had a good gander at that solder point on the Xbox laser...

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: pc engine region mod problem]

JAP games don't work?  I could understand the white screen on the USA side (no Pin 29 grounding), but not on the JAP side.

If USA cards work, the switch HAS to be wired correctly...right?  All the switch does is switch the lines back and forth...if a line is out of whack, the whole thing wouldn't work...

There's some bit of information missing here, methinks...sounds like a PCB job with something amiss, I don't think 8PDT is available in a push-button...let's see a pic!!!

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PCE GT - Earphone Sound Issue]

Damn, that cap is NASTY looking...haven't seen anything close to that in all my recent exploits.
Be sure to CLEAN THE BOARD in that vicinity after you've removed that leaked-all-the-place-looking mess...
Good luck!!

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine LT with No Backlight - Help Needed]

350V?  WTF?  Suggest pulling the bulb if you can (is this wire holding it in place soldered?), inspect ALL SIDES for possible part number / specs (have you done this / is this where you got the 350V figure?)

Gonna see if I can't enlist some assistance here....mailed text of this post to sales*ccflsurplus.com for hopeful conversation...

I've had a brief look about, and apparently Sega Game Gear units use this same CCFL style methodology...got one you can tear down to have a look?  MIGHT just have the same setup...roughly the same era, isn't it?  That would be stupid cheap to sack a GG unit for it's bulb., they abound at flea markets..

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo and it's (ahem!) hot date with the dishwasher....help, please!]

No dishwasher-related love going on....have white funk caked inbetween the legs of some ICs.  NOT good.
Tried scrubbing with my new 91% and toothbrush, but this didn't do anything to it..
Gonna rerun through different dishwasher in the next day or so....
Anyone have experience running top or bottom rack?  I ran on the top, which I assumed was for more delicate things....if nobody sounds off, I'll try the bottom rack....
Thanks for continuing help, once we establish a good methodology, we should sticky this....[do we have this ability here?  I don't see any other stickies]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: geky's turbo cd unit is in need of a doctor, who can rise to the challenge!]

Actually, I picked up 91% at Wal-Mart today (of all places)...label said "Warning:  Flammable", I said "Sold!".
UPC = 6 81131 68762 1, rings in at $1.42.
Works well, but leaves a white haze behind...don't be alarmed, just clean off with cotton swab or towel...

For whatever it's worth, I agree with the gear assessment....just take it apart, hope shit doesn't fall out 
The TG16CD laser, like it's Duo counterpart, sometimes gets stuck too.....may be exactly that simple, just exercising/lubricating the gears..

["Gekioh - Shooting King" is actually an old PSX title (released under different titling in Asia for Saturn, prolly something else as well..)...great title for it's price tag.  Saw it recently, in fact, for $4.99 new/sealed at the weirdo grocery store across town]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: TURBO DUO SOUND FIX!! (56k beware)]

Well, the PCE Duo hit the dishwasher this afternoon (went to Grandma's, made Chinese for dinner, threw the thing in while we were wrapping potstickers), it came out looking like reverse-engineered ass.  White funk all over the board, just like others have mentioned.  Bought some rubbing alcohol on the way home, hit it hard with the toothbrush, but even this leaves a white haze behind....

Question:  Is this haze harmful?  I doubt it (as it's no doubt non-conductive), but I need to throw it out there...

I'm gonna hit it again tomorrow (Black Friday ads look like reverse-engineered ass as well (but, CircusTitties have Arcade 360s with free refurbed 20GB HDD + wireless controllers for $199???  If these have Jaspers in them (with new onboard RAM), this may be a steal!  Pay close attention, though, if your local CT is slated for going under, they may not have all deals....these stores have actually been sold to a liquidation entity), retailers are gonna FLAIL with the economy in the state it's in) with the alcohol, then give it a good once over with the air compressor to speed the drying process...if my caps show up (again 'Parts Express' seems to be a misnomer.....nice folks, really (I called them the other day trying to replace C509 [which I believe to be the Tennokoe functionality], guy was super nice, even schooled me a bit!), but the shipping time SUCKS), I'll start soldering them on.  Yes, FUN FUN FUN, but it'll be better than being in with the maddening crowds at WallyWorld...

End of yet another exercise in insuring parentheses have been properly opened and closed/a post that looks like an Excel formula....heh.  More news to follow...enjoy your Friday, if you do that sort of thing....[throw an elbow or two for me  ]

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PC Engine Duo Video/RAM Issue]

???
Genesis II adapters are 10V DC, .85A, tip positive...while the power provided is in the right neighborhood, it's tip will NOT fit into Duo's orifice.
I assume you meant Genesis I...
Genesis I adapters are 10V, 1.2A, tip NEGATIVE.  Duo_R has pointed this out in the past...not only is it overpowering, it's incorrectly polarized.  I don't even understand how the thing works if somebody ran it with this...I don't know, can incorrect DC polarity blow fuses?  I know shunting AC into a DC circuit can (I'm looking at YOU Nintendo adapter stuck into the back of the Sega CD base!!!  You'd be suprised at the number of times I've seen this come in), but I don't know about DC polarity...it might just not work, as opposed to blowing fuses...

In any event, I'm following your progress here...I agree with whoever said to install a socket, BTW..

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: TURBO DUO SOUND FIX!! (56k beware)]

I learned something about capacitors today....
If your multimeter has a 'Diode Testing' function (symbol looks like ->|- on my Harbor Freight special), try this for testing caps in the circuit:
1)  Locate the Diode Testing function, switch to it.
2)  For post-op and pre-op caps (I'm using C604 as example here):  connect the positive lead of the MM to the positive side of the cap, connect the negative lead of the MM to the negative side of the cap, HOLD IN PLACE for like 30 seconds.  Readout will say "1", but hold in place for 30 seconds.
3)  Remove leads, switch MM to DCV = 20.
4)  Connect + lead to + cap, - lead to - cap
5)  Should observe values DECLINING...mine started at .35 for C604, declined as long as I held leads in place.

What's happening here is that the Diode Testing mode is actually supplying a small amount of charge to the capacitor, which it (if functional) absorbs....switching the MM to DCV = 20 (I selected 20 because it is closest to the 16V rating of the cap) and connecting actually allows the cap to DISCHARGE while you're measuring it!  Different caps on the board behave differently, but all the ones in the audio circuit appear to exhibit the same behavioral pattern.

This can be used to tell whether or not your caps are trashed, I think....might actually be used as a means of 'jump starting' caps as well....

Anybody that actually knows something about MM use / any non-layman-like-me type with useful knowledge have commentary?  [I'm reading while futzing about with my multimeter, DETERMINED to solve this audio issue.....I'm currently testing my working USA unit against non-working JAP unit, learning odd things along the way.  I think we've blown a resistor / fuse somewhere in the audio circuit, and I'm determined to find out WTF the bottom line is....]

Forgive me if you think I'm talking out of my ass, electricians, but this might help somebody....