RIP to BT Garner of MindRec.com... He passed away early 2023 from health problems. BT was one of the top PCE homebrew developers and founder of the OG Turbo List, then PCECP.com. Condolences to family and friends.
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Messages - Xenogears

#1
Take the Power Cord out. Insert a HuCard and turn the Unit ON. Leave Power-Switch in ON-Position. Pull HuCard until it gets Contact with the green Power-On Switch. Turn off. Insert Power Cord. Turn on. What happens ?
#2
Thanks to Mr. Keith Courage my PC-Engine GT now works great again... well. There was one more tiny little issue added to the faulty Display: Hu6260 had a dead "Blue Pin 51" That was the main reason for not showing the correct Colours...   ](*,)
#3
My idea is to somehow downsize the Framemeister/OSSC-Technic optimized for just the NEC-Video-Output. Or a way to create a 31KHz Video Sync for using VGA-Displays... I will kindly ask Mark if he could create such a device. That might be a better solution than endless search for the right Display.
#4
I thought about the LCD-Mod but would like to keep the unit original. So I take Keith´s offer. What I am looking for, would be someone in that universe, that is able to convert Analoge R G B S using an FPGA or CPLD to Digital R G B S for connecting to a modern LCD-Screen instead of C-Video as a source. That would be great and I lost hope, McWill would be able to deliver a Mod simlilar to GameGear - Lynx in the next years to come.

On the other hand - an LCD-Display driven by C-Video delivers a better image, than the original PT/TE Screen does...Thanks to Nightwolf and Keith Courage for your Answers and your help !
#5
Yes. Just as I thought, I  made it, I realized the Display has Color Disortion. Usually Green Objects on the Screen are shown in yellow/orange. I thought, there was a kind of saturisation-Poti on the LCD-Screen PCB but found out, the Top Poti is for centering the Pic, the right one for the Light-Brightness. If the Issue is known and there would be a solution, I would be very happy if you could let me know. But I believe it´s easier to ask, if someone could sell me a complete and working original Replacement-Screen. I am from Germany...

I´m lookiong forward to your answers - thanks a lot !
#6
This Driver Board uses RGBS-Input and converts it to LED-Displays. And it is always sold out.
#7
First recap the PCB and clean it if the Caps have leaked. If that did not solve your Problem, next is the Pots if the Laser is not already tooo worn, these steps fix your Problem I believe...
#8
Your Problem seems to be different from mine. I´d check the Vias supplying 5V / GND to the CD Section. I have no Schematics - sorry. Your Duo is completely recapped ?
#9
Yes, you are right - I thought about Rosser:

".... Is there a non-smd transistor that is equivalent that I could try? thanks for the assistance"
#10
...please buy a Logic Probe. That makes finding Errors a lot easier. So you could check, what happens on the Pins of each IC. A simple broken Adress or Data-Line and you get the blank screen issue.
#11
Does "D" not mark a Diode and "Q" is for Transistors ? "T" -  Transformator... ?
#12
So I supported myself with a Big Bar of Chocolade and found the solution. 2 Issues:

The first one was a broken Trace between R500 / R501 they are connected like this:

[R501]---[R500]

The "---" marks the connection that was broken

So the Heatup of Q500 was fixed. -24V still missing. And as long as they fail you get no +30V.

The second issue was also a broken Trace:

[R502]--- -(CC503)+

Thats it. Now I am that fed up with fixing on the fly, I am encouraged to build a Circuit Schematic.
#13
First check the VIA. In 98 % of all issues, it´s the VIA/connection/Solder Blobs, torn connections/Short... :-({|=
#14
I measured em all... fine. Values checked - Fine. I will check again but if there is no other clue, I will rip off all the Parts of the PCB and just put in an LED Backlight. Thanks for your replies so far, I still need to understand, how 30 /-28 /18 V are created. Is it just the Transistors /Parts in the 5XX-Circuit ?
#15
Quote from: guestHave another look at your GT and see if there are bare leads or component legs touching metal shields (if there are any), look for accidental shorts due to solder blobs shorting several contacts, etc. It might not be obvious in the first place, but you'll get behind it if you're persistent enough.
Okay----a short. If I measure the negative Pad of CC501 to GND I get 1,5 MOhm Resistance.
Compared to my working one - there is infinitive Resistance / no connectivity. Indicates a short. The Board is completely cleaned, no conductive Cap-Leak on it....cleaned beneath Board and Coils.
#16
Check the VIA around and under the Card-Slot and also trace the ALS244 and HC245 IC. They are the "Bridge" to the BIOS and the "Wall" to the BIOS if a HuCard is insert...
#17
Quote from: guestSounds like there's a short somewhere. This would explain the voltage drop at high currents (excessive heat). I had a similar issue with my Turbo Duo, please see this thread for more information: index.php?topic=17134.msg512999#msg512999
I measured all Day without even an Idea where to start. I swapped parts into a working one - these worked fine. Coils and and nearly every Testpoint has the same Value as the working one. All okay exept:

 approx. 30 V / -28 V / -18V are missing...maybe I could use the GT to light some Cigars with the Hot-Transistor... just turn on, use the Heating time to cut the Cigars ends...and GT is ready to fire...great Idea. I should immediately start smoking... :dance:
#18
Hello Everybody,

I have a Problem beyond my knowledge. I´ve got a PC-Engine GT, fully recapped. When turned on, Q500 starts heating up slowly but really hot. Also the Coil L500 gets warm... I already replaced Q500, no change. I replaced Q900 and Q901 - no change.

What I found so far:

D501 / TP 500 should read about 30 Volt. It does not. Starts with about 20 Volt and slowly drops down to 11 V.  The same time it takes, Q500 to get warm.

TP 501 should read -24V. I do  not get this voltage anywhere. Does anyone know the beginning of that Voltage ?

Backlight turns on with the dark, slightly green apperance instead of a bright white light. Any clue would be glue to my shattered-to-pieces-brain. The Unit is just a few seconds away from a meeting with my Power-Bender 2K. :-)
#19
The Point is  not only to look for the Resistor Array. Please frist always check the VIA. If they have connectivity, go on, trace connectivity from Pin to Pin
#20
Old Post - new Answer: SOLVED. Damn. All the measuring for not finding a tiny solder-bridge on Resistor Array (RA512)  ](*,)

After finding that out, the Lid-Detector-Switch was recognized again.

"Please close Cover"

I did not work on the PCB for a very long time - Sometimes time is the key :-)
#21
My TE Video has died. I changed the Caps as I had the Dark Screen issue. Now everything is unchanged after  a complete Recap. The Unit works, Sound is there but the Backlight is only very dark, Constrast Adjustment does nothing. I decided to create a "Check your GT Testpoint-Values" Spreadsheet. Here are my values - Excel-Sheet on Fileupload:

GTCHECK.xlsx


The Chart is not complete yet, so please feel invited to add working Values and fault Values. Maybe we could create a Quick-Test System: If TP 50X shows that Value, Part no XXX is broken/trace is dead.

I need to find out, why -24V are missing and why Q500 / CC501 /L500 are getting hot...
#22
...Here is the Result from my Peak-Tech Logic Probe, set to CMOS/PULSE  from IC 105 - D6378GF

1 - L
2 - H
3 - H
4 - H
5 - H
6 - H
7 - H
8 - H
9 - H
10 - H
11 - L
12 - nothing
13 - nothing
14 - nothing
15 - nothing
16 - nothing
17 - nothing
18 - nothing
19 - H
20 - nothing
21 - H
22 - nothing
23 - nothing
24 - nothing
25 - L
26 - L
27 - L
28 - L
29 - H
30 - L
31 - H
32 - H
33 - H
34 - H
35 - H
36 - H
37 - H
38 - H
39 - H
40 - L
41 - H
42 - H
43 - H
44 - H
45 - H
46 - H
47 - nothing
48 - H
49 - L
50 - L
51 - nothing
52 - H
53 - L
54 - H
55 - H
56 - H
57 - H
58 - nothing
59 - nothing
60 - nothing
61 - nothing
62 - nothing
63 - nothing
64 - nothing
65 - nothing
66 - H
67 - H
68 - H
69 - H
70 - H
71 - H
72 - L
73 - H
74 - L
75 - L
76 - L
77 - L
78 - L
79 - H
80 - L
81 - L
82 - L / Pulse
83 - H
84 - H
85 - H
86 - L
87 - L/Pulse
88 - H/L/Pulse
89 - L
90 - L/Pulse
91 - H
92 - H
93 - L
94 - L
95 - L
96 - L
97 - L/Pulse
98 - L
99 - L
100 - H


Still no Change - if I press RUN the System Message is "Just a moment..." instead of "Please close cover" although the Lid is open/Detector-Switch is not pressed. No need to say, the Disk Systen would not try to spin...
#23
I measured: Clock in from the Crystal on IC 103 Pin 35 / 36 and on IC 105 Pin 90.
#24
WTF...certainly the meaning is  "Wonterful Duo Wonterful"  :wink:
#25
After a lot of measuring on the still not working CD-Unit, I am not able to localize the issue.

IC 104 Logic Probes Results:

  1 - nothing
  2 - H
  3 - L
  4 - H
  5 - nothing
  6 - H
  7 - L
  8 - nothing
  9 - nothing
10 - nothing
11 - H
12 - L
13 - nothing
14 - H
15 - nothing
16 - H
17 - nothing
18 - L
19 - H
20 - L
21 - H
22 - L
23 - L
24 - L P
25 - L
26 - L
27 - L
28 - nothing
29 - nothing
30 - nothing
31 - nothing
32 - L
33 - L
34 - L
35 - L
36 - H
37 - H
38 - nothing
39 - H
40 - nothing
41 - nothing
42 - nothing
43 - nothing
44 - nothing
45 - nothing
45 - nothing
46 - nothing
47 - nothing
48 - nothing
49 - H
50 - H
51 - H
51 - H
52 - H
53 - H
54 - H
55 - H
56 - nothing
57 - H
58 - H
59 - L
60 - L
61 - L
62 - L
63 - H
64 - H

@ thesteve - do you know the Pin for /CE / OE /WE on IC 105 or something that I could proof, to get the IC alive ?

Yours

Dan
#26
You do not need theSteve. Both Units first things first need a complete Recap. Console5 has fitting CapKits in Stock, if you go to your Radioshack, you will find out, it´s tricky to find the perfect height of the Caps as especially inside a LT there is no spare Space.

Please do not forget do clean the PCE from leaked Cap soup (if you start to solder and it smells like Kitty-pee, you did not clean up tidy  :-" )
#27
Quote from: Xenogears on 10/02/2016, 11:47 AMAfter some hours of investigation, I need a clue on understanding, who the detectorswitch-circuit works. Does it activate any transistor ?
I fear only theSteve could help. Encouraged by his IC 501 Pin-Connection, I measuerd agan at this totally treatened DUO by a very untalented solder-guy. I refurbished everything, but the mentioned issue is beyond my knowledge. What I found out:

The CD-Lid-Detector-Switch goes to D102 and from there to IC 104 - PIN 8. I am certain, it´s an output, that sould pulse H/L. It hits the Diode, the closed Detector-Switch puts 5-V through and the Drive/Laser is powered. Usually.

The sick PCB in Front of me outputs only L on IC 104. Pin 8. The DUO "thinks" the Lid is closed but as no power reaches the Diode 102, the Unit is only good for HuCards.

After several hours of reviving the Unit from the Consoles Cemetary I do not want to slaughter it only to spill Parts.  :-({|=

DUO on, guys - Dan
#28
@thesteve - incredible job, assuming you measured Pin by Pin... I already claimed you Jedi-Knight and patience to the light side, it leads. I know, NEC would make you Master of the Council.  :dance:
#29
After some hours of investigation, I need a clue on understanding, who the detectorswitch-circuit works. Does it activate any transistor ?
#30
Ah, yes, I forgot:

all caps changed. It´s just the Duo recognizes the RUN-Button is pressed and instead of starting the drive - nothing. Comparing to another DUO, normally about 8 Volt are passed to the Black Plug. Here it stays 4.2 Volt... but as I never gave up a Duo unit, I will try to fix it and let you know !
#31
I have a strange issue on a Turbo Duo. The Cart-Part works fine. But the CD-Drive does nothing. No spinning or Laser. Even more curious - it states, the Lid is cloed (...just a moment) although the detector switch is off/top position. Any Idea where to locate the issue ?
#32
I do the Modding in Europe and I am shocked and cannot believe it is that hard to work accurate and use good materials...
#33
Another way is, just using CVideo passed through an LM1881 IC, Sync Stripping all different signals out. If you use Pin 44 from the Video Chip, pass it through an amp. I
#34
Update - if you replace with a Standard S-RAM please let PIN 26 Float. The Sanyo 64K x 8 Chip had a 2nd CE input. I used a Sony CXK58257 - 12L. Here Pin 26 is A13. If the Engine pulls 26 to high/low on this Chip, Video crashes awaful.  [-X

After some testing, this seems to work fine now.  [-o<

Here is a link to the Sony IC Datasheet:

http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/320/199959_DS.pdf
#35
SOLVED: IC 106 caused the malfunction  ](*,)

I desoldered it.  [-o<

Replacement was a Standard SRAM. It works fine now.  :dance:

thesteve... you must be a NEC-Cyborg, able to just put your Hand on a PSU and you know, what the Console suffers from. It the Empire had you as an engineer for the dark side, the Rebels never had a chance to blew the Death Star. :-) So thanks god, you are a Jedi-Master! Thank you  =D>
#36
Update: If I use the Change Disk Option in the Bios-CD-Player and put a Game-Disk inside, the Unit reconizes that and returns to the Super CD-Rom² Start-Screen. Here it idles and tries to read the Data until you reset or turn of... ?!?
#37
So here are my lastet results: the PC-Engine DUO still reads Audio-CD, skips Tracks, shows Playtime, remaining Time and has no issues. If I insert a Data Disk, it keeps start to read the inner Track, moves a little outside and then repeats this behaviour in an endless loop. I am very skilled in soldering but a noob in understanding how an IC buffers data.

Is there anything I could check with a Logic Probe or an Oscilloscope ? No problem to swap IC on try and error, but I prefer to find out, why the Unit has that strange behaviour...
#38
It also could be bad caps near the Ram inside the IFU
#39
It also might be an Issue by not correctly adjusted VR 101 - 105. For Basic Troubleshooting, encloed please find a picture of the usual position for the VR (Variable Resistor)

http://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Attachment/52617-CD-Rom%C2%B2-jpg/

I made this snapshot for a german Console Forum and could not upload it here, as "the Upload-Folder is full"...?!?
#40
What I could add to this issue - I found out, that if I burn Winds of Thunder on a CD-R with 40x Speed, the DUO is not able to play the outer audio Tracks. If I jump from Track 1 to Track 19, the sled moves to the outer right, does not find the track, moves to the left (center) finds a Track, moves out... and so on.

 The Original one and a copy made with only 4x Speed (the slowest possible for me) work perfect. Since I made this experiance, I was certain, the burning speed does not affect the reading result. But it does somehow and beyond my knowledge...
#41
Please first do a complete Recap. The Eletrolytic Liquid will be leaked out of serveral SMD Caps, even if you do not see it - it´s there. Clean the Board carefully and recap. Also check for broken VIA. This is much easer, it the caps are not installed yet. Next, even if the Laser shows a red spot, prepare to get a new HOP-M3 if POT-Adjusting after Recap does not help out. And please start testing with an original Audio-Disk for the first steps.
#42
I used an Audio-Disk that has 12 Titels. It´s read, shows the right Disk Info and plays Titles forwards and backwards. And also directly plays, if I select one by menue. I then changed the Audio-Disk to be certain - also working with a 21 Track Disk and a - The Lord of the Rings Audio-Book with 9 Tracks. Fine so far.

But it does not show the Disk Data (Time/Track) and random and seldom, "the Lady" does  not recognize correct Tracks of the inserted CD-Audio. I really tested a lot of times - e.g. if I put in the 12 Track Disk, the Duo startet with Track 5 and denied to jump to the lower tracks by using "<<" or direct select.

After Resetting the Unit by Run+Select everthing seemed fine again...
#43
Schweaty, thanks for the idea but the VR 101 - 105 are already adjusted. I guess the thoughts of thesteve are the ones to follow and investigate. The DUO does not read all as audio if I am right, it should make data hearable. It just reads Audio-Tracks but no Data. If I insert a Game Disk, the disk is recodnized, spins and than, after the typically loading-sound it "idles" at the "just a moment" screen forever. I mean it does not interrupt with the "Please set Disk" message...
#44
Hello PC-Engine Fans,

I have a strange issue with a PC-Engine DUO. It´s recapped, the Laser is tested in a different unit and the Pots work fine. If I insert a CD-Rom, the DUO does not recognize it. Does anyone know, how the NEC-Microcontroller checks, if there is a Data or Audio Disk ?
#45
SOLVED ! It was a broken BU4053BF. As soon, as any Audio-Effect was playing (shots, explosions) the 3x2 Multiplexer stopped working. Changed and now everything is fine again.
#46
I checked your idea: on the headphone, Audio stays hearable, it gets only lost in Mixing on the IFU somehow on Chinch L/R Channel.... so it is definitely the IFU. This is where i will contine my search... thanks thesteve - the easy conclusions are often the best :-)
#47
Yes. It only happens in the IFU with unknown Malfunction. All the simple stuff is done: cleaning the Contacts, changing Engines, Changing CD-ROM... the IFU does not like CD-Audio during playing but loves to Play on Demo, Music CD, even Demo of the Gaming Scenes...

I tried Winds of Thunder. The Demo of the Desert Stage Plays fine but if I start - 3 Seconds of CD-Audio then off and you could only enjoy the effects :-(
#48
Your Bleed-Problem is simple to solve: inside the DIN-Port there is a tiny metal nose for shield. If it is not connected, you get a Ground Ecco. Just add Ground to the Shield, and the Fade is gone. This only occurs if you use a shielded RGB-Cable and shield is not connected (one end at the scart Plug the other one to the DIN-Plug) and finally good contact to the nose in the DIN-Port...
#49
Yes, as schweaty and ProfessorProfessorón said,  please change the Caps and clean the PCB from Electrolytic Liquids
#50
Thank you for all the replies but I fear I did not explain precisely what the Problem is:

If I use the CD-Rom² in IFU A - it works fine
If I use it in IFU B - CD-Audio Tracks stop playing, when you could move the Sprites b D-Pad.

@ The Steve - I hope I am right to say, you do not need to adjust the Pots according to the IFU u use ?

@ Keith Courage - that was what I also thought and already did without an Effect


Best wishes - Daniek