OMG! ZIRIA! ZIRIA!! ZIRIA!!! IT ACTUALLY HAPPENED!! 34 YEARS LATER!! The epic/legendary Tengai Makyou/Far East of Eden: Ziria JRPG has finally been localized! Supper the Subtitler struck again! Simply unstoppable, NOTHING can prevent him from TOTAL PCECD localization domination!!!! WHACHA GONNA DO BROTHER?!?!
Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Topics - Fidde_se

#1
To pinpoint and guide where and why there is low sound on PC-Engine Duo (after re-cap)


Mostly suited for Duo and TurboDuo (Not Duo-R/RX)

For this guide i talked to Artemio and he kindly updated
his 240p Test Suite with new functions which can be used when also troubleshooting the audio on
Duo-R/RX, Super CD-Rom², CD-Rom²/IFU.

When you read this the updated 240p Test Suite will probably be released and/or you can try out the Beta.
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=240p_test_suite
https://sourceforge.net/projects/testsuite240p/files/PCE-TG16-SCD/

Use the CD-ROM2 or the Super CDROM2 version (for now use "240pSuite_1.04_SuperCDROM-test.zip")

In there you could play a beep before, left, middle, right but now you can also play PSG (as before)
left, middle, right, but also CDDA (Stereo) going to each channel and ADPCM (Mono) going to both channels.




We all know about the bad capacitors plaguing the Duo and TurboDuo,
and after changing them it's very common to hear that there are still
problems, low audio, missing a channel, no voice sampling or cd-audio.

Common practice is while changing the caps to also clean parts of the
board around some of the more leaking caps, checking vias and also lifting
and cleaning underneath the op amps, the 4558, and that's what this is
mostly about the 4558 as there is many Duo's out there which these
problems after cap change, and it's time to put an end to that.


So first change the caps, clean, then read this when something is not
sounding correct.


First we have to explain what an OP-Amp is, or to some extent, it stands
for "OPerational AMPlifier", another word for it would simply be
Comparator as that's what it does, and this is actually already at the
heart of our problem, we see it as signal and ground in our heads but a
comparator see's two inputs and comparing them, usually these kinds of
circuits uses what's called a negative feedback, meaning a portion of
the amplified signal is sent back to keep the circuit in check, if one
of these two inputs has a rupture in it's signal path it's not amplifying
right, and to make it worse on the Duo they are cascaded with signals
from each audio source, one for ADPCM, CD-Audio, HuCard (DIN) and finally headphone amp.


Additional Info:
Headphone Potentiometer: (203B) Min->Max
Pin 1-2, 0-27K
Pin 1-3, 0-13.5K
Pin 1-4, 0-13.5K
Pin 1-5, 0-13.5K
Pin 2-3, 0-13.5K
Pin 2-4, 0-13.5K
Pin 2-5, 0-13.5K
Pin 3-4, 0-0 (GND)
Pin 3-5, 0-0 (GND)
Pin 4-5, 0-0 (GND)

Main OP-Amps in this discussion:
IC503 ADPCM
IC521 CD-Audio
IC506 DIN (if lifted then Headphone will still get PSG but no CDDA+ADPCM)
IC507 Headphone Amp


All 4558:
Check that pin 4 has ground connection.
Check that pin 8 has power (≈7.3V)
Power for all 4558 IC506, IC507, IC503, IC521 (also IC203 CD part and IC202 CD part but 4560) gets its regulated power from
Q304 (SMD Mark BR, located in the middle of the cap jungle beside the two main regulators) Japanese SOT-23 (SC-70) incoming
≈8.2V on pin 3, outgoing ≈7.3V on pin 2 and pin 1 should ≈8.0V, IC107 4558 (CD part) however does not get regulated voltage
from Q304 but is powered directly from the same source as Q304 is, meaning IC107 pin 8 will be directly connected to Q304
pin 3, and that pin gets it's voltage from the same pin as IC303 7805 (IN).


So PSG from HuC6280 goes up threw visas and under the HuCard slot comes back to the sec side beside the slot
each with a test point, then going towards IC506 going threw C879 (right) and C878 (left), after those capacitors
there is a new testpoint, then threw R611 (1K left) and R612 (1K right), then going threw R631 (15K Left) and R613 (15K Right) going threw the vias into IC506 but also getting signal from the CDDA/ADPCM.

IC502 OKI M5205 (ADPCM)
Should get ≈5V on pin 18.
On pin 10 the signal goes to pin 6 on IC503 but first threw C652, R657 (1K), R688 (270K).

IC503: ADPCM
Pin 1 ≈3.6V
Pin 2 ≈3.6V
Pin 3 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 5)
Pin 4 GND
Pin 5 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 3)
Pin 6 ≈3.6V
Pin 7 ≈3.6V
Pin 8 ≈7.3V

The signal goes from IC503 pin 3,5 to IC521 pin 3,5

IC521: CD-Audio
Pin 1 ≈3.6V
Pin 2 ≈3.6V
Pin 3 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 5)
Pin 4 GND
Pin 5 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 3)
Pin 6 ≈3.6V
Pin 7 ≈3.6V
Pin 8 ≈7.3V

IC506: DIN
Pin 1 ≈3.6V
Pin 2 ≈3.6V
Pin 3 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 5)
Pin 4 GND
Pin 5 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 3)
Pin 6 ≈3.6V
Pin 7 ≈3.6V
Pin 8 ≈7.3V

IC507: Headphone Amp
Pin 1 ≈3.98V
Pin 2 ≈3.98V
Pin 3 ≈3.6V
Pin 4 GND
Pin 5 ≈3.6V
Pin 6 ≈3.98V
Pin 7 ≈3.98V
Pin 8 ≈7.3V

Headphone Output:
Left channel comes from pin 1 on IC507 (threw C678, 100uF and R693, 120ohm, Right channel comes from pin 7 on IC507
(threw C679, 100uF and R694, 120ohm. If you get all the correct sound in both channels on the DIN then there is
something with or around IC507 focus on that.

You can have headphones on (max volume) and listan after a buzz when you touch pin 2 or 3 on IC507 with something
metallic (Left channel) and pin 5 or 6 (Right channel), if voltages are correct and you hear a buzz on each channel
that op-amp should be OK.

With the same headphone test you can try out IC506, pin 6 buzz to the right, pin 2 buzz to the left, if voltages and
buzzing on each channel then that op-amp should be OK.

Continuing headphone buzz test on IC521, touching pin 6 buzz right, touching pin 2 buzz left, and touching IC503 should
give buzz in both channels (adpcm mono) on pin 6 (loud), pin 2 (weaker), you can nearly with just the buzz test locate
where the problem is.

DIN: Audio
Left on pin 3, Right on pin 4.
Going threw L602 and L601 respectivly.
After that going threw R608, R610 (1K) respectivly.
Then passing threw C604 (10uF right), C610 (10uF left).
From C604 to IC506 pin 7, C610 to IC506 pin 1.

As these op-amps are cascading then if any voltage are wrong on one and making audio low it can be the previous one thats
not working correctly, you can try lifting one and see if some the sound become "loud" again usually when lifting IC506,
(they should be lifted at some point anyhow to remove excessive electrolyte fluid).



Signal into IC506 pin 6 (right) comes from R630 (15K) then to IC504 pin 1, and IC506 pin 2 (left) comes from R628 (15K) then to IC504 pin13.

There are several replacements for 4558 (SO-8), the original is made by JRC but RC4558 (Texas), NJM4558 (New JRC) or LM4558 (Diodes) should work fine.

The HuCard sound (PSG and Simple Voices) comes from HuC6280 pin 17 (Left) pin 18 right



With the 240p Test Suite you can test each channel individually or each soundtype separately,
different volume between left and right or different sound coloration, sometimes it's easier
with headphones and there you can also listen closer for different kinds of static and popping
sounds (that usually comes from leaked electrolyte charging and discharging on the board),
and if your laser is ok you can test the cd audio track to see that it sounds correct (stereo separation on some of the sounds, bongas to the left), and finally a final solution to test the
voice sampling (ADPCM) without the need to find a correct game a wait for the sound to heard,
just hit play and you'll know if it works and it should sound the same on both channels with
the same volume.


Duo 4558 HuC6280:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/Duo%204558%20HuC6280.jpg

Duo 4558 PRI:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/Duo%204558%20PRI.jpg

Duo 4558 SEC:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/Duo%204558%20SEC.jpg

Duo 4558 Volume Knob:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/Duo%204558%20Volume%20Knob.jpg

240p Test Suite:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/240p_Test%20Suite.jpg



This values are taken from the Duo with serial: 21031541B
Pictures before recap.

Made by Fredrik Nyqvist 1-3/2018 SWEDEN
And many thanks to Artemio Urbina for updating
his 240p Test Suite with CDDA and ADPCM tests.
#2
It's out but few have it, for those of you here who do, what's your result/verdict.
Pros & cons.

PCE/TG16 seems to run great.

http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/OSSC
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/ossc.html
https://www.videogameperfection.com/2016/03/04/open-source-scan-converter-a-first-look/
#3
I tried to search for it but turned up with nothing, someone here discussed it a few weeks back, they were using a simple HDMI2VGA converter cable to get VGA out from XGRB Mini and it seemed to work great.

Like one of these models:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262000794563
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311557786242

Anyone knows anything about it?

With that cable that Micomsoft themselves have made (not fore sale/yet?!) that converts RGBHV into RGBS so that VGA could be inputted into the RGB DIN socket on the Framemeister then it's VGA in to VGA out like all the previous XRGB models.

OSSC already has VGA in, but that HDMI adapter above should work on that too,
yes only the DIY have the HDMI connector but a simple straight adapter from DVI-D to HDMI
would fix that for the premade version.
#4
What the hell is happening here?

Is he a Obeyer?

Is this console finally getting the recognition it deserves?
#5
Not a single search on the forum about this old gem.

rgcd.co.uk/2011/05/super-star-shooter-advance-gba.html#more

Give it a try, gives me also a Star Soldier Series run for the money, if this was ever released on the GBA the PCE shmup gamer in me would buy it in a instance.

IMG IMG
IMG IMG
#6
Everything needed to know about the components when in need of repairing the CoreGrafx.

Components Text File:
*** Being Written ***

PDFs for circuits and special components:
*** Being Written ***

CoreGrafx PCB Secondary:
IMG

Large: retrosampling.se/Coregrafx%20PCB%20Secondary%20Copper.png

CoreGrafx Components Secondary:
IMG

Large: retrosampling.se/Coregrafx%20PCB%20Secondary%20Components.png

CoreGrafx PCB Secondary External Ground Plane:
IMG

Large: retrosampling.se/Coregrafx%20PCB%20Secondary%20External%20Ground%20Plane.png

More will come in in the coming months.
#7
Seeing this movie the only thing I saw was GameParks old logo, anyone more then me?

Cherevin Logo:

IMG
IMG

GamePark Logo:

IMG
#9
Read about this forgotten game before Christmas, met the guy yesterday, played the original diskette and the new steam version, shmups are really great.

www.1993game.com/

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=190812780

Oozes Amiga about it, loves the crystal beams at 1:07 in the trailer.
#10
Off-Topic / What happend to Frank_fjs? =(
02/17/2014, 12:38 PM
Hi you all, anybody here knew Frank_fjs? a bloke from down under.

I talked a lot with him over a year ago, he had something interesting to say everyday here at the forum, one day in January last year (2013) he just disappeared.

He was a member of many forums on other sites and he had lots of knowledge in Famicom and Master System, and every once in a while I search for something in those two topics I usually get an answer that's written a long time ago, by Frank_fjs, and all of them are ending in jan 2013.

He had lots of knowhow, He wasn't so much into the electric parts themselves maybe but if there was a regional difference or something that could be physically fitted together he had already tried it.

Has he left us all for good or did something happen to him? maybe he just woke up one day and left the retro gaming scene forever?, highly unlikely as retro gaming is like heroine in the veins, once you start there is no going back, Welcome to Celebrity Retrogaming Rehab, guess we wont see that anytime soon, but never say never.

Anyone got any clues?
#11
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111278279891

Any one here knowing anything about it?

For 10pcs it sound pretty cheap, you will have to use a programmer and solder it onto the board
unless you can find a holder, would have to be a programmer holder and make it rather high.

Yes the turbodrive supersedes it, but this is great for making a small batch of homebrew that's not cd based.
#12
Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB! SuperGrafx
12/27/2013, 07:02 AM
Just the console nothing else is needed.

If you got anything send me PM.
#13
Anyone tried the Super HuCard? it's the idea of loading pce hucard roms of a cd.
http://www.zeograd.com/super_hucard_download.php

I thought why hasn't this been done, a simple search and it has... a long time ago.
but only the ones that fits inside the memory.

And it works...
#16
Hi all, I was fixing a Super CD-ROM² and it seemed to just need a pot adjustment. I searched the forum for any pot adjustment, but I wanted one with a resistance chart, ended up with nothing.

I found this japanese site http://pcerepair.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-87.html
and started from scratch.

IMG
IMG

The pots had been tampered with wildly prior to my attempts and the site shows where they approximately should be when it's new, I then tuned it in, and measured it and made my own chart.

Following the usual chart tradition =)
IMG IMG
Borrowed from "Duo_R"

It would be nice if others would report their exact values as these are not the original even if they are working very good.

Values in K (Kilo Ohm)

Sometimes potentiometers crack with age and if so
All of them should be 20K (24J) except VR105 thats 1K (13J)
They are also top adjust and single turn and hole threw.
Example Kingtronics RKT-3329-H-203 and RKT-3329-H-102
#17
Hi, You all, thought I bring you guys up to date, I will be handling/selling Chops gears for the Europeans, that will mean faster shipping if you live in Europe, might be as low as 1-2 days for the Nordic countries and 2-7 days for the rest of Europe, otherwise it will be no difference ordering from me then Chop, other then I will take PayPal, Chop will still be available for the rest of the world and can answer most questions, so this is authorized and approved by Chop, and I'v gone to Chops Gear Academy and graduated top in class =)

PM me for all inquires or info needed.
#18
Just thought I share a picture of a modded briefcase for you, I like modded things stock looking! What do you think?

IMG
Full Size: http://retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE_RGB_SCART/DSC_0609.jpg


Also modded a Ten No Koe 2 for Japanspel www.tradera.com/butik/Japanspel

IMG
Full Size: Full Size: http://retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE_RGB_SCART/DSC_0544.jpg
#19
Hi, I'v just exchanged all electrolytic capacitors for SMD Tantalum, but this very unit doesn't work as it should after that.
Now I usually have as an hobby repairing Game Gears and their capacitors are way worse then any of NECs consoles,
then usually the surface traces are nearly gone and the electrolytic fluid goes threw the via holes eating up the connection from
Pri and Sec side, so I'v already traced nearly all via holes back to front for connectivity.

I have measured the voltage on the capacitors and heres something a little wrong, there has been a nearly identical thread like this before, acting just the same where the ground was lost somewhere but this isn't it.

Heres the voltages that dont add up.

CC503 0v (-24v on the negative side) positive side connected to ground, I guess this is the way it should be but differs a little from "all caps should have 5v exept one that has 24v"
CC101 0.6v
CC102 0.6v
CC103 2v
CC104 2v
CC703 2v
CC501 7v (this one is a little different as it's not directly connected, but threw a transistor)

The rest has 5v as they should

So anyone what to check next? one failing or halffailing component spliting up from the 5v regulator to nearly all of these?
#20
I'm making a small batch of these.
IMG

They will be pricey as the parts are not that cheap and making them are very time consuming, especially making the EXT Connector...
Probably they will only be interesting for Europeans as Scart for the rest of the world is non existing, and why not MOD the consoles instead you think as you won't be able to use the CD-ROM2 when this is connected, true but this is made for purists and collectors that don't want to mod their precious jewels.

For any PCE/TG16 with full 69Pin EXT connector.

If any one just want AV that works too... Any lengths too.
#21
I'm making a small batch of these.
IMG

They will be pricey as the parts are not that cheap and making them are very time consuming, especially making the EXT Connector...
Probably they will only be interesting for Europeans as Scart for the rest of the world is non existing, and why not MOD the consoles instead you think as you won't be able to use the CD-ROM2 when this is connected, true but this is made for purists and collectors that don't want to mod their precious jewels.

For any PCE/TG16 with full 69Pin EXT connector.

If any one just want AV that works too... Any lengths too.